^' 



^ A 





./ 




'% 













-a. 



' o 






# 









Digitized by tine Internet Arciiive 
in 2011 witii funding from 
Tine Library of Congress 



littp://www.arcliive.org/details/twelvetliousandmiOOIiutt 



TWELVE THOUSAND MILES 



OVER 



LAND AND SEA; 



OR, 



WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 



BY 

V 

Key. ^yiLLIAM HUTTON, 

Pastor of Greenwich Street Presbyterian Church, Philadelphia. 



^ ...vf66o.>y. * 



PHILADELPHIA : 

GRANT, FAIRES & RODGERS, PRINTERS, 
52 & 54 North Sixth Street. 

1878. 



^NiS!'^TW 




THE LIBRARY 
Of CONGRESS 

WASHINGTOM 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1878, by 

WILLIAM HUTTON, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. 0. 






'^^LA.^^m^ 



'MM'.m^lM,^'!^'*' 










%i-^ 



TO 

MY ALMA MATER, 

WITH HEARTY WISHES 

FOR THE COXTIXUED PROSPERITY OF 

HAMILTON COLLEGE, 

THESE "wanderings IN EUROPE" ARE 
MOST GRATEFULLY DEDICATED 



BY THE AUTHOR. 



eA9 



'■'/SAT me down to build a boat 
And set it on the sea afloat: 
1 7vronght it with a loving will. 
Putting to task my tit most skill : 
I gave its form the highest grace 
My hand and eye knezo how to trace. 
And beantijied its eve7y part 
According to my native art. 
I set the mast, and spread the sail 
To catch the softliest-breathing gale^ 
And then I sent it forth to go 
Whichever way the wind might bloto. 
Who knows? It ?nay be lost at sea^ 
Or come with treasure back to me J'' 

Mac Kelt ar. 




LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Page 

1. Frontispiece. Windsor Castle. 

2. Blarney Castle 34 

3. St. Giles 132 

4. Heidelberg 232 

5. St. Mark's and Ducal Palace 284 

6. The Ancient Eoman Forum 308 

7. The Forum in Kuins 310 



PREFACE. 



"A tiling of beauty is a joy forever"; and so is an 
excursion to the "Old World." It can never be for- 
gotten. It opens up a "new world" of thought and 
imagination. It is both a stimulus and tonic. It 
strengthens the body, invigorates the mind, and cul- 
tivates the taste. The scenery is so charming, and 
the customs and costumes are so i3eculiar, that the 
tourist is being continually surprised and delighted. 
And this is true of both city and country. The farm- 
houses, fences, trees, birds, flowers, and garb of 
plodding peasants are quite unlike to those of his na- 
tive land. And the cities and towns, with narrow, 
crooked streets, old, many-cornered buildings, and 
ivy-covered walls, contrast strikingly with American 
cities now "springing up." Then, the means and 
methods of locomotion, the peculiarly constructed 
railroad cars, dog and donkey Avagons, jDrcsent scenes 
amusing and grotesque. The castles, ivied ruins, 
monuments, museums, libraries, art galleries, exhibi- 
tion palaces, royal parks, stately cathedrals, charm by 
their beauty, inspire by their grandeur, and instruct 
by their treasures of knowledge and of art. 



VI PREFACE. 

Having been appointed a delegate, in 1874, to the 
General Assembly of the Irish Presbyterian Church, 
we were permitted, after the duties of that office were 
discharged, to wander over "land and sea." These 
*' wanderings " extended through Ireland, Scotland, 
England, Wales, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, 
Italy, and France. Purchasing the best guide books, 
maps, and time tables, and selecting the routes that 
seemed most pleasant, we traveled alone. By this 
method perfect freedom was enjoyed. We were neither 
consigned to hotel keepers, omnibus drivers, or mule- 
teers, nor conducted hastily through art galleries, 
libraries, and cathedrals, by impatient guides. Some 
400 miles were traveled on foot. The poets con- 
ducted us to many a shining lake, shady bower, and 
sparkling stream; and our pages are adorned with 
quite a number of selections from their writings. 

Sketches of these w^anderings — published in seve- 
ral religious journals — were widely read, and favor- 
ably received ; lectures were also prepared, descriptive 
of the places visited, and scenes witnessed. Friends 
— lay and clerical — suggested that the " notes " and 
" sketches " be put in permanent form, and generously 
subscribed for a large number of " copies." This 
modest little volume presents itself in response to 
these friendly solicitations. The writer, young, and 
inexperienced at book-making, pleads for that kindly 
indulgence usually granted the " first literary venture." 

William Hutton. 

Philadelphia, March, 1878. 



CONTENTS. 



Chap. I. Ten days upon the Ocean 9-23 

New York Harbor — Farewell Greetings — Passengers and Crew 
— The Staggering Steamer — A Bitter Experience — Man Over- 
board — Concert — Sabbath Services — Land— Valentia — Queens- 
town. 

IRELAND. 

Chap. II. Queenstown to Killarney 24-47 

Cork — Shandon Bells — Railroad Cars— Blarney Castle- Kissing 
the Blarney-Stone— Lakes of Killarney — Muckross Abbey — In- 
nisfallen Abbey. 

Chap. III. Killarney to Dublin .48-66 

Home of Oliver Goldsmith — Connemara — Isles of the Blest — 
Irish Peasants — Fairy -land — Birds — Flowers — Depopulated 
Country. 

Chap. IV. Dublin to Derry 67-96 

Dublin— Trinity College— St. Patrick's Church— Castle— The 
Boyne— Belfast — Irish General Assembly — Giant's Causeway — 
Walls of Derry. 

SCOTLAND. 

Chap. V. Greenock to Loch Katrine 97-118 

Highland Mary's Grave — Glasgow — Churches — Preachers — 
Wynds — Loch Lomond — Wild Moor — Lady of the Lake. 

Chap. VI. Loch Katrine to 3Ielrose Abbey, 119-liS 

The Trossachs — Stirling Castle — Bannockburn — Home of the 
Queen of Scots -Edinburgh Castle— St. Giles— Covenanters — 
Mtdrose — Abbottsford — Dry burg Abbey . 

vii 



VIU CONTE^'iTS. 

ENGLAND. 
Chap. VIL Cheviot Hillsto Windsor Castle, 144-173 

York — Birmingham — Eugbv — Oxford — Cambridge — London — 
Bank — Tower — Museums— Lords and Commons -Parks — Zoo- 
logical Garden. 

Chap. VIIL Windsor Castle to North 6'ea... 174-201 
Windsor Park — The Queen — Reception at Buckingham -Crys- 
tal Palace — St. Panl's — Westminster Abbey — Spurgeon's Ta- 
bernacle — Parker's Temple — Hyde Park — Sabbath in London — ■ 
Expenses. 

BELGIUM. 

Chap. JX Antiverj) to Waterloo 202-209 

Antwerp — Dog Wagons — Dress — Cathedral — City of Brussels — 
Beer Gardens— Sunday Dog Markets — King's Palace — Waterloo. 

GERMANY. 
Chap. X. Aix la Cha^^elle to Basle 210-238 

Old Church— Relics — Cologne — Bonn — The Rhine — Mentz — 
Weisbaden— Frankfort — Worms — Heidelberg — Baden Baden — 
Strassburg. 

SWITZERLAND. 

Chap. XL Basle to lit. St. Bernard 239-270 

Zurich — Lucerne — ^Bern — Lausanne — Lake Leman — Geneva — 
Mt. Blanc — "M«rde Glace" — Climbing St. Bernard — Monks — 
Dogs. 

ITALY. 

Chap. XIL St. Bernard to Borne 271-303 

Aosta — Ivrea — Milan — A^'enice — Padua — Ferrara — Bologna — ■ 
Apennines — Florence — Arezzo— Perugia— Churches on the Hills. 

Chap. XIII. Rome to Naples and Turin 304-357 

Rome — Hills — Monuments — Colosseum — Palace? — Vatican — St. 
Peter's — Catacombs — Protestant Churches — Naples — Pompeii — 
Pisa — Genoa — T uri n. 

FRANCE. 
Chap. XIV. Mt. Cenis to Straits of Dover. . .358-370 
Mt. Cenis — Paris — Napoleon's Tomb — St. Cloud — Bois de Bo- 
logne — Louvre — Pere Lachaise — Parisian Sabbath. 

HOMEWARD BOUND. 

Straits of Dover to New York Harbor 371-372 

Wales — Ocean — Storm — Highlands — New York Harbor. 



WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 



CHAPTER I. 



TEN DAYS UPON THE DEEP. 



Wednesday, May 20th, dawns with a sky clear 
and cloudless. The harbor of New York presents 
a beautiful scene as the mists rise from the waters 
and disappear at the presence of the sun. Huge 
ferry-boats float hither and thither freighted with 
hundreds of men and women going to their ac- 
customed toil. Lively little tugs steam merrily 
seaward in quest of some wind-forsaken ship, or 
other hapless craft, that may require aid. The 
stately ocean steamer moves slowly to her mooring, 
as if wearied by her journey over the sea. Sturdy 
laborers unburden the richly-freighted ships that 
lie along the wharves. The sailors have climbed 
the masts, and are busy in the rigging preparing 
1 9 



10 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

to meet the winds that so wildly sweep the sea. 
Away in the distance the white- winged boat glides 
gracefully over the shining waters. Here and 
there the shrill sound of the steam-whistle — the 
boatmen's salutation — startles the stillness of the 
morning, and awakens the echoes along the neigh- 
boring shore. As the hour of 9 approaches, the 
scene at the Cunard wharves, Jersey City, is lively 
and exciting. Heavily laden express wagons 
thunder through the gates, and drop their costly 
burdens near the waiting ship. Omnibus, coach 
and cab crowded with sea-bound passengers, whirl 
in eager haste to the appointed place. Hundreds 
of men and women exchanging hurried glances, 
move upon the decks, or stand upon the wharf. 
But the last belh has rung, the parting moment 
come, and friends must bid adieu — some never 
more to meet ! How touching is that scene — 
hands are closely clasped, loved ones are embraced, 
the kiss of affection is impressed, sobs give ut- 
terance to feeling, and eyes are dimmed with tears. 
All aboard! And the steamer is in motion. 
Slowly she swings into the current, and her prow 
is pointed towards the sea. The wharf is fairly 
white v/ith handkerchiefs wildly waving, and 
many parting kisses are flung from tiny fingers. 

Steadily and gracefully our ship moves over 
the waveless waters, and at 11.30 we have passed 



TEN DAYS UPON THE DEEP. 11 

beyond the " Narrows/' and the pilot is dis- 
missed. 

The city and its gleaming spires have disap- 
peared ; the '{ Highlands ^' have sunk beneath the 
sea, and at 4 o'clock the sandy shore of Long 
Island passes slowly out of sight. 

Our gallant captain stands upon the " bridge/' 
and puts the men in motion. His method is pe- 
culiar. A whistle, and the sailors rush upon the 
deck ; a second whistle, and up the ladders they 
go — nimble-footed fellows — like a troop of squir- 
rels ; a third w^histle, and they swing oif and 
begin to unfurl the sails. But to give unity and 
effect to their labors they unite in singing. And 
just here we have one of those strange, weird, 
sailor songs, so often the precursor of fearful 
blasts, and the accompaniment of v/ild surgings 
by the sea. How mournfully it sounds, and what 
a feeling of sadness it excites ! As we listen, a 
sense of loneliness steals through the soul. We 
become conscious of the situation. We realize, 
that "out on an ocean all boundless we ride," 
and that we are not " homeward bound." Home 
and friends, green fields and fragrant flowers, are 
behind us, while around and beneath is the ever- 
changing, billowy, treacherous sea ! The eye 
sweeps the horizon without discovering an ob- 
ject. The land upon which we so recently gazed, 



12 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

has strangely and suddenly disappeared. The sea 
and the sky are all that we behold. 

And even now the sky is overcast, and the scud- 
ding clouds herald the coming storm. But how 
grand the sea ; how strange and varied its motion ! 

Look at those swelling waves with snowy 
crests, chasing each other past the plunging 
steamer. How they whirl and leap, like school- 
boys at play ! 

How buoyant, joyous, free, seem these briny 
billows. They submit to no restraint. The cap- 
tain's voice and the seaman's song are alike un- 
heeded. Onward they rush impelled by the rising 
Avind. We wonder not that so many of the young 
are attracted by the sea. Its very movements 
inspire. Its wide expanse, varying hue, and 
changeful voice, charm, fascinate. 

" Eoll on, thon deep, dark-blue ocean — roll! 

Ten thousand fleets sweep over thee in vain ; 
Man marks the earth with ruin — his control 

Stops with the shore ; " 
" Thou glorious mirror, where the Almighty's form 

Glasses itself in tempests ; in all time, 
Calm or convulsed, — in breeze, or gale, or storm, 

Icing the pole, or in the torrid clime. 
Dark-heaving ; boundless, endless, and sublime, 

The image of eternity — the throne 
Of the Invisible." 

The last sad refrain has been sung by the sail- 



TEN DAYS UPON THE DEEP. 13 

ors ; the sails are all set^ and the stiffening wind 
has stretched the canvas to its utmost tension. 

Our noble vessel, the Abyssinia, is one of the 
largest and staunchest ships of the Cunard line — ■ 
370 feet long, 42 feet wide, and 35 feet deep. The 
ship's force numbers one hundred and thirty-seven 
men, and some half a dozen women. 

These are divided into three departments. The 
sailing department has 50 men ; the engineer's de- 
partment, 43 men, and the steward's 44 men and 
some half a dozen women. Each of these depart- 
ments is thoroughly organized ; every man is at 
his post, and every man expected to do his duty. 
The discipline is excellent. The men are kept 
constantly busy sweeping and swabbing the decks, 
burnishing the brass, and trimming the sail. 

The steward's department is quite popular, and 
admirably managed. The table is well furnished ; 
the waiters prompt and courteous. We have 
fresh (?) strawberries a thousand miles from land ! 
They are as rosy and red as if they had just dropt 
blushing from the bushes. 

There are a large number of passengers on board. 
All the cabins are full— even the steward's rooms 
are occupied. 

Among them are Americans from north and 
south, east and west; Canadians, English, Scotch, 
French, and a few Irish gentlemen, ^' all of the 



14 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

olden time.'^ Various trades and professions have 
representatives — bankers^ merchants, doctors, cler- 
gymen of different denominations, and sundry poli- 
ticians. A number of ladies are going abroad ; 
some to improve their health, others to enlarge 
their experience, complete their education, or — 
kind fortune favoring — to change their name ! 

In the steerage, quite a number of stalwart 
men and sturdy women have taken passage. 
With some of these the trip is one of pleasure. 
They cross the sea to visit friends and cheer the 
hearts of aged parents. But with others how dif- 
ferent ! They have been unfortunate. 'No work 
could be obtained ; no friendly hand was out- 
stretched, and homeward they return hoping for 
better days in the sea-girt isle. And yet they are 
not utterly dejected. They are humorous and 
witty. Nor has the old fiddler lost his cunning. 
With what skill he draws that magic bow ! — and 
how the trembling strings give ex:pressi;bn to the 
feelings of his heart. How in the twilight hour 
he stirs the soles of his nervous auditors by his 
lively music; or, by a sudden change, moistens 
the eye of the sympathetic listener, by his tender 
and plaintive melodies ! 

During the first two days the decks are crowded ; 
the merry laugh is heard ; the steward's bell is 
responded to with delight; and the abundant food 



TEN DAYS UPON THE DEEP. 15 

is eaten in quantities that would startle the econo- 
mic proprietor of any modern boarding-house. 
But by the whirling waves, and rocking ship, the 
scene is changed. The decks are deserted ; the 
laughing has suddenly ceased, and the recently 
joyous company is sullen and silent. The few who 
appear at the summons of the steward, look, ap- 
parently, with unmingled disgust at the food he 
has provided. Here and there, along the ship's 
side, some suffering passenger casts wistful eyes at 
the hissing waters, and leans tenderly downward 
as if soliciting the sympathy of the sea. Cries, 
strange and startling, are heard in the cabins. 
The excited stewardess rushes along the narrow 
aisles as if the safety of the ship depended upon 
the celerity of her movements. 

The doctor, quick-footed, tramps "fore and 
aft," giving gentle hints, suggesting methods of 
treatment, and adding the required prescription. 
Our.shij^has suddenly become a floating hospital. 
Every Dody, and every object, seems to be at the 
point of dissolution and disintegration. The ex- 
pressions of dissatisfaction at the unsteadiness of 
the ship are frequent and emphatic. Some even 
wish for the wings of the storm, that they might 
fly homeward and be at rest. The experience is 
decidedly hitter. Not a few would willingly 
forego the pleasures promised in the future, in 



16 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

order to be released from the pain experienced in 
the present. 

But the sky suddenly brightens, the wind blows 
less violently, and the sea grows calm. And what 
a change in the expressions and movements of the 
passengers! The decks are crowded ; the dining- 
room becomes a centre of attraction, and laughter 
is heard in the cabins. The recently staggering 
ship, impelled by wind and steam, moves over the 
less turbulent waves with surprising steadiness. 

We are now acclimated and prepared to enjoy 
the situation. True, it is novel, and yet it is de- 
lightful. The manner in which time is spent dif- 
fers with the taste of the individual. But a change 
of method is induced by the position in which we 
are placed. Several old friends were left on shore 
and new ones must be found to take their places. 
Business is at home, and so are the daily papers. 
Shopping must be dispensed with, and so must 
pastoral visitation. And yet how quickly time 
flies, and with what joy we meditate upon our 
isolation ! 

We do not forget absent friends, and yet we feel 
glad at the temporary separation. Peace, quiet, 
restfulness is ours. Hurry, anxiety, excitement, 
dwell not here. What a blessed relief from all 
things human ! The postman does not trouble us. 
That benevolent book-agent, whose unfathomable 



TEN DAYS UPON THE DEEP. 17 

valise holds specimen copies of all the recent pub- 
lications, no longer annoys by his irresistible im- 
portunities. Those hoary-headed beggars, whose 
mournful tales have moved the bread from the 
pantry to their pockets, are absent. The nimble- 
footed newsboy does not startle with the shrill cry 
of " Murder in the fifth ward ! '' '' Terrible acci- 
dent ! " ^' Fire and great loss of life ! " ^^ Drown- 
ing in the Delaware ! '^ From such unwelcome 
news the bounding billows separate us. The daily 
papers come not with their cliapter of accidents ; 
the " latest scandal/' and the bitter declamations 
of partizan politicians. We are in blissful igno- 
rance of human affairs. And ^' when ignorance is 
bliss 'tis folly to be wise." 

Three objects impress us ; the sea, the sky, the 
ship. With the sky we hold communication. 
Daily, at noon, the captain has a message from the 
sun. It is brief and to the point. It informs us 
of our exact location, and of the distance traveled 
since the previous noon. This is all the news we 
have from abroad, and more we do not want. 
" Plenty to eat and nothing to do." What a 
happy lot is ours ! Yes, truly ; plenty to eat. 
Coffee comes at 7 o'clock ; breakfast at 8.30 ; 
lunch at 12 ; dinner at 4 ; tea at 7.30, and supper 
at 9 o'clock. How time flies in discussing the 
merits of these English dishes ! When the tables 



18 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

are deserted, the decks present a lively scene. 
Here and there are groups engaged in brilliant 
conversation. Some of the quiet ones sit in com- 
fortable chairs reading the last novel, or looking 
over a guide-book, arrange their future excur- 
sions. 

Sometimes the scenes are positively amusing. 
Here are venerable women conducted to their 
chairs. Suddenly the ship gives a lurch, and a 
procession of chairs, with fearfully frightened oc- 
cupants, marches in '■' double quick '^ to the side 
of the vessel. A rebounding wave returns the 
fugitives, and they are made secure, to their evi- 
dent satisfaction, by being fastened with a rope. 
At certain hours the ^'fashionables promenade.^^ 
The captain, a gallant tar, usually leads the pro- 
cession. With swaying forms and bending limbs, 
up and down the deck they march in zigzag lines. 
Many a merry laugh is indulged in at the ex- 
pense of some hapless fellow-passenger. Oppor- 
tunities are frequently afforded for the exhibition, 
both of agility and strength ; and many gentle 
courtesies are accepted and responded to, during 
these afternoon excursions. 

There are occasional excitements created by the 
nearness of some ship, or in exchanging signals 
with some distant steamer. One evening, just 
before dark, a rush was made to the forecastle, 



TEN DAYS UPON THE DEEP. 19 

while the ciy, " ship ahead ! '' rang up and down 
the steamer. The vessel was slowly moving under 
sail^ across our bows, to leeward. 

The rapid motion of the steamer brought us 
speedily within speaking distance, and w^ere it not 
for the immediate command of the captain to put 
the helm '' hard to port/^ we would have run her 
down in a few minutes. We came so near, that a 
slight mistake by the wheelsman, would have led 
to the most disastrous consequences. On another 
occasion a ship approaches us from the north, 
swinging gracefully on the pliant wave. She 
comes so close that we could distinguish the faces 
upon the deck, and our hearts beat fast and strong, 
w^heu thus brought face to face with fellow-trav- 
elers upon the wide and restless waters. 

Sad and startling was the news this morning. 
One of our passengers has disappeared, — never- 
more to be seen ! Judge Doolittle, of Utica, came 
on deck at 9 o'clock last evening, and has not 
since been seen. It is supposed that in a state of 
mental depression, or melancholy, he cast himself 
into the sea. Sad ncAvs to be flashed back to wait- 
ing and anxious friends. 

The Queen's birthday is duly celebrated by 
passengers and crew. At early morn the British 
flag is sent flying to the mast-head in honor of the 
Queen. A sumptuous dinner is provided ; 



20 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

speecl^ies made ; national airs sung, — including 
'^ God save the Queen " and the ^' Star Spangled 
Banner/^ 

a j^ grand concert ! '^ Such is the notice that 
greets the eye, both in the cabin and on th.e deck. 
The object is a worthy one — the Sailors' Orphan 
Home, at Liverpool. The state-room is crowded — 
quite a brilliant audience. Minister Schenck — 
our minister returning to the Court of St. James- 
presides, and introduces the performers. A French 
"prima donna" and the leader of a New York 
orchestra, are the '^ special attractions.' ' 

We have some good '^ fiddling" and "trilling," 
with a few real good old English songs that 
^' bring down the house," or, rather stagger the 
steamer. The captain, as jolly a tar as ever 
guided a ship, sings in true sailor fashion, " I'm 
afloat, I'm afloat, and the rover is free." 

A collection is taken up remarkable both for 
the amount, and the material ; one hundred and 
eighty dollars is put upon the plates, all in silver 
and gold, except one representative of the depre- 
ciated greenback. 

The Sabbath day comes, bringing a clear sky 
and a quiet sea. A service is held in the morning 
at which both passengers and crew are present. 
The captain reads the Episcopal service ; responses 
loud and hearty being made by the officers and 



TEN DAYS UPON THE DEEP. 21 

crew. A sermon is preached by a venerable di- 
vine, a New York city pastor. 

The situation, and the surroundings, are ad- 
verted to by the preacher, who secures undivided 
attention by the soundness of his doctrine, and the 
appropriateness of his theme. 

The most delightful evening spent on ship- 
board, is this evening of the Sabbath. 

A goodly number of the passengers, male and 
female, stand upon the deck, and unite in singing 
some sweet and familiar hymns. The sea is like 
glass ; the stars sparkle in the sky, and the moon 
is full. The ship glides so smoothly that we are 
quite unconscious of motion. And here, under 
the canopy of the starry heavens, and upon the 
bosom of the deep, shut out from all the world, 
we join with heart and voice in singing " Nearer 
my God to thee," and '^ Jesus lover of my soul." 
As the words, ^' safe into the haven guide," are 
repeated, hearts are touched and eyes are tearful. 
We feel that God is here, listening in the silence 
of this twilight hour, to the songs His children 
are singing, and the prayers they are offering in 
song. 

But the tenth day has arrived. For nine long 
days we have looked upon the sea and sky, and 
now we wish for land. Our vessel has averaged 
about three hundred miles a day, and land is pro- 



22 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

mised before the setting sun. As the day ad- 
vances the land excitement increases. The sea 
has changed its color and the waves have changed 
their form. ^^ Kerry Coast lies off to the left," 
says one. " Yes/' replies an old woman of evi- 
dent Irish extraction, who had been sick during 
the voyage, *' an' one sight off the auld counthry 
will cure me ! " Everybody is on deck at 5 p.m. 
Eyes, aided by opera-glasses and telescopes, are 
peering into the mists that have settled along the 
Irish coast. The steerage passengers crowd the 
forecastle. Suddenly a giant rock looms up grandly 
in the sea. Land ! land ! is rung out in merry 
shouts. Slowly and beautifully the Kerry moun- 
tains make their appearance, and the Irish coast, 
for scores of miles, bursts upon the sight ! What 
an excitement among the steerage passengers. 
How some of them fairly leap for joy ! Laughter 
and tears are mingled, as those lofty mountains 
and green fields appear beyond the swelling flood. 
We sweep along the coast with bright eyes and 
happy hearts. 

" All the storms will soon be over, 
Then we'll anchor in the harbor." 

We pass Valentia Bay, where the ocean cable is 
landed. On a broad rock, high above the waves, 
stands the signal station, to which our captain re- 
ports, by sending to the mast-head, the colors of the 



TEISr DAYS UPON THE DEEP. 23 

Abyssinia. The sun lias now set, and lights are 
blazing along the coast. It looks as if Will-o-the- 
wisp, with lighted torch, went bounding from 
head-land to headland all the way to Cork. Mizen 
Head, Cape Clear, and old Kinsale, are passed in 
succession ; and at 1 1 P. M. we enter the harbor of 
Cork. 

A lighter is waiting, some miles from the shore, 
to receive both passengers and mail. Parting 
words are spoken ; cheers given for the noble Abys- 
sinia, and we are steaming up to Queenstown at 
the hour of twelve. 

Less than a score of cabin passengers land at 
this point. And these are tourists, intending to 
visit places of interest in Ireland ; six of them — a 
company of ladies — going direct to Killarney. 
But we are ashore, and rushed immediately into 
the custom-house. Here, valises, trunks, and 
satchels are carefully examined by her majesty's 
faithful officers. What a diligent search for " see- 
gars.'^ And what surprise is manifested when we 
declare that there was no such contraband material 
in our possession, and that we were not even par- 
tial to the weed. '^ The gintleman may pass along,'' 
exclaims the disappointed smoker. So w^e ^^pass 
along '' to the ^' Queen's hotel," and there enjoy 
the solid comforts of a bed that seems to be mov- 
ing, but is really motionless. 



CHAPTER 11. 

EAMBTJNG THROUGH IRELAND — FROM QUEENS- 
TOWN TO KILLARNEY. 



QuEENSTOWN is built on the side of a hill that 
slopes gradually down to the sea. It was formerly 
called '^Cove/' but received its present name upon 
the visit of her Britannic Majesty, in 1849. From 
the heights above the town the scenery is quite 
picturesque. Yonder is Spike Island. It is a 
convict depot, and some two thousand men are em- 
ployed in excavating and building. Close by is 
Rocky Island, having a powder magazine cut in 
the solid rock, containing some ten thousand bar- 
rels of powder. What a splendid prize for the 
Fenians. And how easily they might get — well — 
blown up ! 

This harbor of Cork, that stretches away before 
us to the sea, is one of the finest in the world. It 
is capable of aifording shelter to the entire British 
navy. Here, the celebrated Drake found refuge, 
when closely pursued by the Spanish fleet. 
24 



QUEENSTOWN TO KILLAENEY. 25 

And Crostihaven creek, into which he sailed and 
where safety was found, is known to the local 
mariner as '^ Drake's pool." The city of Cork is 
eleven miles distant, and we are off to the home of 
the " Corkonian/' What charming scenery ! The 
harbor so magnificent; the winding river Lee; 
the groves and villas ; the sparkling lawns and 
lovely green fields, are a feast for eyes wearied 
with the monotony of the sea. 

What freshness and beauty all around us ! 
What sweetness in the bird songs ! What fra- 
grant odors on the breeze ! With the clear sky, 
balmy air, and beautiful scenery, we are delighted. 
What a pleasant introduction to this saintly isle, 
on this May morning ! 

But here is Cork, the southern capital. And 
here comes Mr. " Corkonian,'' an excellent speci- 
men. What an excellent subject for an artist. 
How he bows, and whines, and pleads for the pri- 
vilege of ^' carryin' yere satchel.'^ We demur, 
pleading as an excuse, the need of proper exercise. 
He responds : '^ Och in sure, a jintlemun the likes 
of you sur, wouldn't tire yerselves. Plase, sur, 
ni be afther takin' you to wheresomever you 
might be goin, and unsasin' blessins on yer sowl ! '' 
Of course we relent, relax our hold upon our bag- 
gage, which is quickly seized by this oily boy of 
Cork. Then follow questions about "Ameriky" 



26 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

in rapid succession, that fairly surprise us. As 
we proceed, we are fully enlightened regarding 
the woes and wants of " ould Ireland," The re- 
pressive policy of the British government; the 
.system of absenteeism by which Ireland is impov- 
erished ; the unhappy relation subsisting between 
landlord and tenant; the course that should be 
pursued in order to restore harmony, and bring 
about an era of good feeling ; these and kindred 
topics, are discussed with a logic and an eloquence 
that would win fame for a learned professor. 
Not since college days, when studying Bowen, 
have we been so instructed in political economy. 
Now and then we cast a suspicious eye upon this 
philosophic individual, somewhat perplexed in 
harmonizing his extensive knowledge and his 
shabby appearance. He has a shrewd cast of 
countenance, and occasionally his eyes twinkle 
merrily. His '^ brogue " is the genuine southern 
type, and the repetition of complimentary phrases, 
with a peculiar modulation, indicate that he has 
kissed the " blarney stone." But that pale face 
and these well-patched garments, reveal his pov- 
erty. Indeed, the discrepancy between the man and 
the garments, excites the suspicion that they were 
ever made to his measure. If so, then surely the tailor 
lost his reckoning. Our sympathy is excited by 
his tales of suffering, and after he has conducted 



QUEENSTOWN TO KILLAENEY. 27 

US here and there, pointing out the objects of in- 
terest, we propose some compensation. A multi- 
tude of pennies carried in our pockets over the sea, 
are kindly offered, and as kindly refused. The 
amount is considerable, and yet this hungry mor- 
tal has no regard for ^^ coppers," — '^ he always 
likes a bit o' silver sur." We yield the point and 
give him both, receiving in return, such an Irish 
blessing ! 

After conversing with this " Corkonian,^^ we 
concluded that Gray was correct in his elegy, 
when he asserted the possibility of highly gifted 
men dying without proper recognition. 

Indeed, upon the marble slab that will mark the 
last resting place of this rustic philosopher, might 
well be inscribed the words — - 

" Perhaps in this neglected spot, is laid 

Some heart once pregnant with celestial fire ; 
Hands that the rod of empire might have sway'd, 

Or wak'd to ecstasy the living lyre. 
But knowledge to Ms eyes her ample page, 

Kich with the spoils of time, did ne'er unroll ; 
Chill penury repress' d his noble rage, 

And froze the genial current of the soul.' ' 

Cork is a city of considerable size. Its po- 
pulation is estimated at between seventy and- 
eighty thousand. It is well built, and quite at- 
tractive. The principal streets are wide and well 



28 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

paved, but not remarkable for cleanliness. The 
city is governed by a mayor, sixteen aldermen, and 
forty-eight councillors. It returns two members 
to the British parliament. History informs us 
that St. Fionn Bar, an anchorite, founded a 
monastery in Cork in the beginning of the seventh 
century ; and that his seminary was attended 
by 700 scholars. It is related that Cromwell 
caused the church bells to be cast into cannon, 
during his residence in this city. Here William 
Penn was converted to Quakerism, by the preach- 
ing of Thomas Loe; and not far distant is the 
grave of Wolfe, author of the lines beginning, 
" Not a drum was heard — not a funeral note.^^ It 
was in Cork that the celebrated Father Mathew 
began his career as a preacher of " total absti- 
nence." He was supplied with funds by a brother- 
in-law, who was — strange to say — a distiller. The 
effect of '^ Mathew's '^ preaching upon the brother- 
in-law's distillery was very decisive. The dis- 
tillery ceased its flow of liquid fire, and the 
brother-in-law became a bankrupt! The Roman 
Catholic Church of the Holy Trinity, a beautiful 
Gothic edifice, was founded by this reformer. 

And in St. Patrick street, the people of Cork 
have erected a ^^ handsome '^ statue of this most 
successful temperance advocate. 

It would seem that the influence of good St. 



QUEENSTOWN TO KILLARNEY. 29 

Fionn Bar is still felt in this southern city^ for no 
less than eight educational institutions of a scien- 
tific character are here located. The Queen's col- 
lege, built of limestone, in Gothic style, is an im- 
posing edifice, and occupies a conspicuous position. 
The "Royal Cork institution " has an extensive 
library, and some interesting manuscripts in the 
Irish language. The museum has a number of 
stones inscribed with the letters used by the Dru- 
ids previous to the introduction of Christianity. 
Among other objects of interest, the Shaudon 
Church, with its storeyed steeple of red-stone and 
limestone, is worthy of mention. This church has 
a steeple 120 feet high, and a good chime of bells. 
It is a fortunate circumstance that Cromwell is no 
longer a resident of Cork, else the heart of Rev. 
Mr. Mahony would not have been so tenderly 
touched by the chiming of those bells, nor would 
his poetic genius be made immortal by chiming 
down the ages the following musical measures: 



" With deep affection 
And recollection 
I often think on 

Those Shandon bells, 
Whose sound so wild would 
In the days of childhood, 
Fling around my cradle 

Their magic spells. 



30 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

" I have heard bells chiming 
Full many a clime in, 
Tolling sublime in 

Cathedral shrine ; 
While at a glib rate 
Brass tongues would vibrate, 
But all their music 

Spoke nought like thine." 

Bat lest the reader of Irish extraction should 
regard Cork, because of these educational facili- 
ties and poetic and historic memories, as a good 
place in which to live — a paradise of plenty — we 
would point to the Worh-house^ the largest in the 
country, and to the nearly forty pawnbroking es- 
tablishments in the city. 

These two, and we might say twin institutions, 
reveal the poverty of the people. 

Blarney Castle is not far distant from Cork, and 
we are off to kiss the " Blarney stone." Upon 
purchasing our ticket and stepping into the cars, 
we at once perceive that this '' train '^ is a foreign 
institution. The cars — about the size of the Amer- 
ican—are built in compartments. Each compart- 
ment accommodates some eight or ten persons, who 
sit face to face. Between these compartments or 
divisions, there is no communication. The doors 
open each side, and are locked by the ^' guard '^ 
before the departure of the train from each suc- 
cessive station. While passing from station to 



QUEENSTOWN TO KILLARNEY. 31 

statiou, the passenger is practically a prisoner, and 
wholly at the mercy of his fellow-travellers. A 
projecting board, rumiing the entire length of the 
train, furnishes a foot-path for the " guard/' 
And along this narrow pathway the conductor 
moves briskly and rapidly to examine tickets, ad- 
mit and release passengers. While the cars are 
in motion, the guard usually occupies a small com- 
partment, or "caboose,^' at the end of the train, 
from which he communicates with the engineer. 
Of course the thought of being locked up, and lim- 
ited in our range of vision, is at the outstart un- 
satisfactory. Then the fear of being carried be- 
yond the proper station is not soothing to the 
nerves of a tourist, bent upon improving every 
mile, and every minute. And occasionally we hear 
passengers shout lustily, and see them swing their 
arms threatingly at the guard, who seemed forget- 
ful of their release, until the train had well-nigh 
started. 

We have, years ago, read thrilling narratives of 
band-to-hand encounters between passengers ; and 
of the brutal treatment the weak received at the 
hands of the strong, when the thundering of the 
cars drowned the cry for help, and the distance 
between the stations afforded opportunity for the 
commission of crime. 

But if there be a dark side, there is also a bright 



32 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

one; and we sit fearless and contented in this Irish 
conveyance. We are happily alone, and the car 
is locked. Solitary confinement in a foreign land ! 
Well, that pea-nut man cannot enter ; neither can 
the youth with gum-drops. Then that pestilent 
vendor of trashy novels is excluded. So is the 
man who spoils our " nap/^ and excites our cu- 
pidity, by screaming out ^^ prize from ten cents to 
twenty dollars in each package of superior candy ! '^ 
All these disturbers of the traveller's peace are here 
happily unknown, and we are ready to shout for joy. 

The road, over which we are carried at a high 
rate of speed, is well built. The bridges are solid, 
and the stations neat. All necessary precaution 
is taken to avoid accident. 

The track is fenced in with wire-ropes ; signal 
stations are erected at suitable distances ; carriage 
roads pass over, or under, the railroad by means 
of bridges, and thus speed and safety is secured. 

The ^^ guard " is a novelty. He wears an offi- 
cial robe shining with buttons; is generally bland ; 
has a charming " brogue"— a genuine son of the 
soil. 

At each station we find a policeman. He is 
dressed in a close-fitting blue suit, girt with a 
broad banded leather belt and brass buckle; his 
head closely shaven, and shielded by a little round 
cap strapped tightly under the chin. The atmos- 



QUEENSTOWN TO KILLARNEY. 33 

phere is fresh and fragrant, and the prospect most 
delightful. The cottages of the peasantry are 
built of stone, one story high, whitewashed, neatly 
thatched, and surrounded by the omnipresent 
'^potato-patch,^' the camping ground of the goose, 
and the dormitory of the porker. 

The fields are very small, seldom containing 
more than two or three acres, and frequently not 
more than one. The fences are clay, overgrown 
with grass, and crowned with the wdiite-blossomed 
hawthorn, or yellow-flowered furze. 

Blarney Castle, so celebrated in Irish song, was 
built in the fifteenth century, by Cormac Mc- 
Carthy. It was a massive structure, and prior to 
the use of gunpowder, must have been impregna- 
ble. The lower portion of the edifice, and the 
tower, 120 feet in height, still remain. We are ad- 
mitted to the grounds by a w^oman, who, conscious 
of the dignity of her position, points with pride 
to the majestic pile, and dilates with marvelous 
fluency upon the beauty of the scenery. And the 
grounds surrounding the castle are certainly beau- 
tiful. In former days they were adorned with 
statues, grottoes, bridges, and various kinds of 
rustic ornament. But since the time, 

" The muses shed a tear, 
When the cruel auctioneer, 
With his hammer in his hand to sweet Blarney camej" 

2 



34 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

some of the stately trees have been cut doAvn, and 
the statues have disappeared. But neverthehjss — 

'' The groves of Blarney, 
They look so charming, 
Down by the purling 
Of sweet, silent stream," 

that we forget the glory of the past in the beauty 
of the present. We enter the castle. Here is the 
dark and dismal chamber where prisoners were 
confined. And this is the banquetting hall. Above 
us rises the tower, from the summit of wduich a 
magnificent view of the surrounding country is 
obtained. And yonder is the famous Blarney 
stone. Who has not heard of its magic power ? 
And what son of Erin, or what tourist, has failed 
to kiss it when the opportunity has been afforded ? 
And have we not turned aside to visit the build- 
ing for this very purpose ? For — 

" There is a stone there 
That whoever kisses. 
Oh ! he never misses 
To grow eloquent." 

This ^' real stone " is difficult of approach. It 
is clasped by iron bands to a projecting buttress, 
at a considerable distance from the ground. We 
must climb to a considerable height, and then 
holding on to the bars reach down and bring the 




Blarney Castle. 



QUEEIirSTOWIir TO KILLAENEY. 35 

lips in contact with this magic stone. With breast 
pressing the hard rock, head and shoulders pro- 
jecting over the battlements, heels pointing sky- 
ward, the feat is performed. 

A stout German just arrived upon the scene, 
and exceedingly anxious to acquire smooth and 
winning speech, attempts to do likewise. But 
wdiether, owdng to the weight of his head, or the 
pressure of his heels, the sinewless arms are une- 
qual to the task, and the disappointed Teuton re- 
tires in disgust. Why this stone is so famous, or 
how such effects came to be ascribed to it, can- 
not be easily explained. There are various theo- 
ries, but none satisfactory. 

It is said that the smooth, fluent, persuasive 
speech, with which the people of this locality have 
always been gifted, was traceable to the magi- 
cal power of this particular stone. Such is the 
tradition of the elders. Such appears to be the 
belief of this singularly loquacious guardian of the 
premises. 

And no tourist of slow speech, or limited vo- 
cabulary, can afford to be skeptical, when by the 
exercise of faith, and the expenditure of a few shil- 
lings, such advantages may be gained. How 
many tourists in the past have had their tongues 
loosed by the magic ^^ touch," we cannot affirm, no 
record being kept by the institution. 



36 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

Having paid the janitrix the usual admission 
fee, and receiving in return blessings and com- 
mendations, numerous and varied, we sauntered 
along the ^' gravel walks there for speculation and 
conversation,'^ admiring the natural beauty of the 
locality and musing upon the changes that had taken 
place since the days of the famous McCarthy's. 

Resuming our wanderings, we proceed to the 
Lakes of Killarney. The country is somewhat 
wild and boggy ; this is particularly so as we 
near the lakes. Arriving at the depot, we select 
our hotel, and are driven thither in a truly novel 
conveyance, an Irish jaunting car. The passen- 
sengers sit sidewise, back to back, the feet reaching 
towards the ground, but resting upon a footboard. 
The driver occupies a seat in front, sometimes on 
a plane with the passengers, and sometimes slighly 
elevated. The passengers while sitting in this 
"backward" position, do not press upon each other, 
as there is some space between them, and this 
space is frequently occupied by children. Jaunting 
cars roll through the streets, having two or three 
adults on each side, and two or three good-sized 
children thrown in between ; the whole party 
being pulled along by a little Irish pony. In clear 
weather this mode of traveling is exceedingly 
pleasant, allowing an uninterrupted view of the 
country, and frequent changes of position. 



QUEENSTOWN TO KILLARNEY. 37 

The ^'Lake Hotel" has been selected, and we 
are met at the door by the portly matron, who 
keeps the establishment. Our hostess is a genuine 
Irish ^' lady." She is bland, witty, and has a 
charming ^^ brogue." She politely informs us, that 
the house is full of guests, from all parts of the 
world, but that a "gintleman" from "Ameriky " is 
always welcome. Being thus kindly assured, w^e 
hang up our hat, and feel perfectly at home. The 
house is admirably located, the table well furnished, 
and the charges by no means extortionate. 

The population of Killarney numbers some 5000, 
including the beggars. The laziest-looking set of 
loungers we have yet seen, are here. Many of 
these shiftless fellow^s prey upon the unsuspecting 
visitors. A few act as guides, and demand the 
largest fee for the simplest service; others beg, and 
their importunity is such, that the only escape is 
by yielding to their demand, and giving them "a 
few coppers." Killarney has several benevolent 
institutions; a dispensary, a fever-hospital, an 
almshouse, and lunatic asylum. There is also a 
nunnery, with a school attached, in which 400 
girls are instructed by the nuns. But we proceed 
to a tour of the country and the lakes. A jaunting 
car is engaged and we are oif at a gallop. 

Here is the Cathedral, a stately edifice of recent 
construction. A ^vi^iting upon one of the pillars 



38 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

appeals to our syinpathy and reminds us of the 
departed. It is as follows: ^^Of your charity, 
pray for the soul of Mary Catharine O'Sullivan, 
who died April 19th, 1873, in the 65th year of 
her age. — Jesus mercy, Mary help." 

Several requests of a similar character are posted 
in various parts of the building. Reference is 
made to the decease of Thomas, Earl of Kinmare, 
—from which we infer that the deceased noble- 
man was in Communion with the Roman Catholic 
Church. In the churchyard is a monument, — a 
monolith of Peter-head marble,— to the memory 
of an Irish Chief Justice. 

From the Cathedral we ascend to the venerable 
ruins of Aghadoe. These consist of portions of 
an ancient castle, church and tower. Antiquarians 
declare that the architecture points back to the 
sixth century. Both in the ruins and the cemetery, 
there are some very quaint carvings and sculptures. 
Here, at the head of a grave stands a crucifix in 
stone; and yonder is a virgin and child roughly 
chiseled out of the rock. These specimens of rude 
Irish art, are two and a-half feet wide, and the 
strange inscriptions intimate that they belong to the 
sixth or seventh centuries. 

These ruins lead our thous^hts back throuo^h the 
ages. They indicate the antiquity of the country. 
They also teach us the fleeting character of human 



QUEENSTOWN TO KILLARNEY. 39 

glory, and lordly power. In these ancient castles 
dwelt martial chiefs who went forth to battle, a 
thousand years ago. And here are the slowly 
decaying walls of churches and monasteries, 
where in centuries gone by canons, monks, and 
friars, clad in holy vestments, chanted their eve- 
ning prayers in slow and solemn measures. And 
yonder are battlements and towers, ivy-covered 
and slowly crumbling, where haughty chieftains 
walked in pride, and shook the shining spear, or 
hurled the deadly weapon. And all have passed 
away : silence reigns supreme ! 

The outlook from these ruins is simply magni- 
ficent. The tourist who does not visit Aghadoe, 
can form no conception of the beauty and gran- 
deur of the scene. In the distance to the right is 
<'Tomies" Mountain, 2400 feet high; a little far- 
ther along the ^'Purple " Mountain, lifts its head 
to an altitude of 2700 feet. In front, away off in 
the distance is "Tore" Mountain, nearly 2000 feet 
and the " Stoompa,^' 2300 feet, above the level of the 
sea. Beneath us in the valley and partly encircled 
by these mountains, lies Lough Leane, the largest 
and the loveliest of the lakes of Killarney. In- 
numerable islands, covered with hoary ruins, 
sparkle upon its shining waters. Its shores, fringed 
with groves, verdant lawns, and castle ruins, 
charm the eye with a scene of varied beauty. 



40 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

Camillan and Cloghereen Woods ; Kenmare and 
Muckross Demesne add their coloring to the picture, 
making it the most beautiful we have ever seen. 
Those black mountains, vivid green shores, and 
shining waters can never, from memory be effaced. 
From Aghadoe we proceed to the ^'Purple" 
mountains. Here is the residence of Lady Headley, 
and yonder the house of M. Jas. O'Connell, brother 
of the famous " Daniel." The isolation or seclu- 
sion of these " lordly" mansions is quite noticeable. 
They are usually surrounded by high stone walls, 
or impenetrable thorny hedges. A gateway care- 
fully guarded, admits to the premises. The entire 
arrangements point back to feudal times, and 
reveal an impassable gulf, separating landlord and 
tenant, — the aristocracy, and — well, — the Fenian 
democracy. At the entrance to the Gap of Dunloe 
stands a cottage, once occupied by the famous Irish 
beauty — Kate Kearney.- — Her charms inspired the 
local bard to write : 

" O did you ever hear of Kate Kearney, 
Who lives on the banks of Killarney ? 
From the glance of her eye 
Shun danger, and fly, 
For fatal is the glance of Kate Kearney." 

We are met and welcomed by Kate's grand- 
daughter, who now keeps this way-side inn. At 



QUEENSTOWN TO KILLARNEY. 41 

this point the carriage road terminates^ and the 
bridle path begins. 

A number of tourists are enjoying the hos- 
pitalities, so freely offered and urgently pressed. 
This kind woman has great sympathy for ^'Gintle- 
min such as yese, thravilin' in the hate uv the 
day.'' She bids us be "sated/' while she runs, 
not to kill a kid, but to " fetch a little dhrop of 
the crather." Quickly two bottles are presented, 
one containing '^mountain dew,'' or '^ potteen," and 
the other "goat's milk." Our temperance prin- 
ciples are put to the test, but (to their credit be it 
spoken), come off victorious. Failing to dispose of 
these inspiring beverages, she next presents her 
photograph, urging, as a reason why we should 
become the happy possessor, her relationship to 
" Kate" of romantic memory. Fearing lest such a 
"souvenir" should excite jealousy in our little 
family circle, we politely decline the purchase, and 
compliment her upon those illustrious ancestors, 
of whom we had heard and sung in boyhood's 
happy days. 

Before passing through the gap of Dunloe, an 
amusing incident occurs. A partnership had been 
formed early in the day with another gentleman, 
for the purpose of lessening the expenses in con- 
nection with the jaunting car, and also of resisting 
the demands of those burly beggars that infest the 
2* 



42 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

mountain path. Two horsemen^ wild mountaineers, 
come galloping up and offer their fiery chargers to 
carry us over the mountain. 

We decline, — preferring to walk, — our friend 
however will ride, and there is now a dispute. 
Which horse shall he choose? Each rider prefers 
the claims of his favorite animal ; and all the fine 
points, from head to hoof, of these rival steeds are 
referred to, dilated upon, and urged with such wit 
and argument, as provokes the loudest laughter. 

Finally the contestants submit to the decision 
of our companion. He will hire, and pay liberally 
for the horse that gallops the fastest. Then we 
have a race. Away down the road they start, 
and up they come sweeping around the curves at 
a tremendous pace. The ignorant spectator might 
suppose that life itself depended upon the result, 
such spurring, whipping, and yelling to win the 
prize ! Neck and neck they come, with flashing 
feet and flying tail. One of the horses runs ahead 
of the other, and is rewarded by having placed 
upon his back a respectable-looking gentleman 
weighing over 200 lbs. avoirdupois. 

The Gap of Dunloe is exceedingly wild. The 
narrow pathway winds along, now beneath over- 
hanging cliffs and anon in the shadow of bold 
precipitous mountains. 

A quickly flowing stream traverses the gap, 



QUEENSTOWN TO KILLARNEY. 43 

forming in its onward march five small lakes, 
called the '' Cameen'^ lakes. Of these lakes, one 
is justly celebrated as the receptacle of the last 
Irish snake. Purple Mountain, so called because 
of the purple-coloured shale covering the summit, 
rises 2300 feet above this lake. From the top of 
this mountain, that sainted Presbyterian, Patrick, 
sent the last of those venomous reptile^ down into 
the ^' Black ^' Lough. ^^An' in sure isn^t there the 
thrack," exclaims our guide, pointing out a seem- 
ing pathway in the mountain side, ^' along fwitch 
they come." We argue the case, but without 
effect. Our guide, and a half dozen men and 
women, who have met us on the way, each one 
carrying a bottle of Irish whiskey and a bottle of 
goat's milk, believe it as sincerely and as firmly as 
they believe in their own existence. Certainly the 
mountain is high enough to witness such a spec- 
tacle, and the ^^ Lough " black enough to hide such 
venomous reptiles. 

From this point we have an excellent view of 
Macgillicuddy's Eeeks, said to be the loftiest 
mountains in Ireland. The valley at tha base of ^ 
the "Reeks" is called *' Coom-a-Dhuv,'' 'or, the 
black valley. 

The scene is bleak, barren, desolate. There are 
no trees, fields, crops, — nothing but a wild moor 
stretching away for miles, and terminating in those 



44 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

dismal ^' Reeks.'' The contrast between the Lakes 
of Killarney, just over the ^'Purple" Mountain, 
and this ^^ Coom-a-Dhuv/' is most remarkable. 

But the boatmen await our arrival at the lower 
lakes, and we hasten on to meet them. We are 
followed down the mountain by groups of men- 
dicant merchants, — their stock in trade consist- 
ing of stout woolen hose and strong Irish whis- 
key. 

They beg, and insist upon having some com- 
pensation for accompanying us. When this is 
denied, or but feebly responded to, their smiles 
are changed to frowns, and their flattery to abuse. 
Dear reader, beware of them. And if you ever 
visit the Gap of Dunloe, or climb to the '^ Black 
Lough,'' to drop a tear upon the grave of the last 
Irish snake, be sure to go in company with a man 
that weighs 200 pounds, and wields a rousing 
"shillelah." 

Arriving at Lord Brandon's Cottage, we em- 
bark in a nice little row-boat. At the oars are 
two sturdy men. The name of one is Michael 
Sullivan, — a descendant doubtless of the famous 
Kerry chieftain of that name. We float joyously 
over the '^ upper lake." 

It is only two and a half miles long, and three 
quarters of a mile wide. Twelve islands sparkle 
upon its bosom. The shores are rocky, and wild 



QUEENSTOWX TO KILLAENEY. 45 

mouDtaijis cast their shadows upon the surface; 
— but the islands are beautiful. 

Here is " Arbutus Island/^ so called because 
covered with that verdant shrub, — a perfect gem. 
The Eagle's Nest lifts its head 700 feet above the 
river, and the echo is remarkable. Mountain an- 
swers mountain, repeating the echo many times, 
and with great distinctness. 

Middle Lake is much larger than the Upper 
Lake, the scenery less wild, and in some respects 
more beautiful. 

Lough Leane is the largest of the lakes of Kil- 
larney. It is five miles long and three miles wide. 
Thirty islands sparkle on its surface. Some of the 
finest ruins in the country render these islands spe- 
cially attractive. Here is Boss Castle, to the sum- 
mit of which we climb. The view from those 
ivy-clad and crumbling walls is charming. 

It was built ages ago by one of the O'Do-v^ 
naghues, and was the last of the Munster Castles 
to surrender to the English. This occurred in 
1652. Muckross Abbey ruins, situated on the 
margin of the lake, consist of an abbey and 
church. The abbey was founded in 1440, and 
some portions are still in a good state of preserva- 
tion. In the church, there are many tombs, in- 
scribed with the names of Irish chiefs and heroes, 
— O'Sullivan, McCarthy, and O'Donaghue Mor 



46 WANDEEINGS IN EUROPE. 

— who in ancient times owned the soil, and led 
their clans to battle. Our boatmen are quite 
familiar with the history of the "saintly isle.'' 
Their stories are amusing. The traditions respect- 
ing Irish kings, and the legends pertaining to 
saintly characters, are alluded to, and dwelt upon, 
with a gayety or gravity, becoming the subject of 
remark. Now and then snatches of Irish melodies 
awaken the echoes, and give too swdft wings to 
these happy hours. 

Of all the islands, Innisfallen is the most beau- 
tiful. The historical associations are exceedingly 
interesting. Here are hoary ruins pointing back- 
ward more than 1,200 years ! The abbey is said 
to have been founded by St. Pinion in the year 
600. In this abbey were prepared the celebrated 
" Annals of Innisfallen." This work consists of 
portions of the Old Testament, a compend of 
universal history down to the fifth century, and 
an interesting history of Ireland to the begin- 
ning of the fourteenth century. The original 
copy, written some 600 years ago, is now in 
the Bodleian Library, Oxford University. No 
complete translation of this work has ever been 
published. 

The island, with its verdant lawns, flowering 
shrubs, and stately trees, its ivy-mantled ruins, 
and historic associations, is the most beautiful of 



QUEENSTOWN TO KILLAENEY. 47 

those sparkling gems that shine upon the bosom 
of the lovely Lough Leane. 

The calmness and beauty of this ^^ fairy-isle " 
tempts us to linger, but time forbids. For years 
we have longed to look upon this moon-lit scene, 
and now must bid it a fond farewell. 

" Sweet Innisfallen, fare thee well, 

May calm and sunshine long be thine, 
How fair thou art, let others tell, 
While but to feel how fair be mine, 

" Sweet Innisfallen, long shall dwell 

In memory's dream that sunny smile, 
Which o'er thee on that evening fell, 
When first I saw thy fairy isle." 




CHAPTER III, 



WANDERING THROUGH IRELAND — KILLARNEY 
TO DUBLIN. 

From Killarney, our rambles extend to the 
western part of Ireland. Tipperarj — whose ci- 
tizens are so skilled in the use of the ^^ black- 
thorn" — is visited : and so is Kilkenny, famous 
for its peaceable cats. And here is the old town 
of Athlone : and not far distant is Lishoy, the 
early home of Oliver Goldsmith. It is now 
known by the name of Auburn, and is the reputed 
scene of the '^Deserted Village.'' Some features 
corresponding to the descriptions in the poem still 
remain : — - 

" The never-failing brook, the busy mill " 

may yet be seen ; and so can the 

" Decent church that topp'd the neighbouring hill." 

The ruins of the parsonage attract the tourist's 
eye, and point to the lines descriptive of the 
site :— 

48 



KILLAENEY TO DUBLIN. 49 

** Near yonder copse, where once the garden smiled, 
And still where many a garden flower grows wild, 
There where a few torn shrubs the place disclose, 
The village preacher's modest mansion rose." 

Whether Lishoy be "sweet Auburn, loveliest 
village of the plain/' or not, we are pleased to 
know that tourists turn aside from the beaten 
path, to visit the early home of this much admired 
Irish essayist, novelist and poet. 

The ocean now rolls before us ; and the scenery 
along this Gal way coast is both wild and beauti- 
ful. Large islands possessing remarkable ruins 
lie like huge breakwaters between the ocean and 
the bay. These Arran Islands figure quite con- 
spicuously in legend and song. The pagan Irish 
believed, that the Paradise they prayed for could 
be seen from this rocky coast. These isles of the 
west were to them the isles of the blest. Mr. 
O'Flaherty — an excellent authority — declares that 
an enchanted island often appeared and disap- 
peared to the west of Arran. The ancient Irish 
believed it to be : — 

" That Eden, where the immortal brave 
Dwell in a land serene, — 
Whose bowers beyond the shining wave, 
At sunset oft are seen." 

From Gal way to "Westport, the scenery is pro- 



50 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

bably the wildest, and the people perhaps the most 
unlettered and superstitious, in all Ireland. This 
will be believed when we call the region Conne- 
mara, and the province, Connaught. 

Westport, a good-sized town, is honored in 
being the home of an Irish nobleman, — the Mar- 
quis of Sligo. The noble lord occupies a mansion 
which, for size and surroundings, might well be 
termed a castle. The demesne is beautiful. We 
are freely admitted, and admire the lawns, trees, 
and splendid edifice, and the forest that partly co- 
vers this 350 acre inclosure. Some four miles 
distant, CroaGh Pafrich lifts its head 2.500 feet 
high, and looks down upon ^' Clew Bay,^' one of 
the most remarkable bays in the United King- 
dom. This mountain is visited at certain seasons 
by large numbers of devotees from all parts of 
Ireland. Up the sloping sides they clamber, 
performing ^' Stations,'^ as they ascend. 

It is the Irishman's Mecca; and an excellent 
j^lace to go on a summer excursion. If this sacred 
mount coald be transferred to the shores of New 
Jersey, great would be the excitement among the 
stockholders of Camp Meeting grounds. 

The proprietor could easily execute a lease upon 
" his own terms ; '^ and ecclesiastical speculators 
would derive a 'Miandsome profit ^^ from the in- 
vestment. 



KILLARNEY TO DUBLIN. 51 

Castlebar is the countj town of Mayo. Here 
the Earl of Lucan has his summer residence and 
model farm. His lordship owns the land on which 
the town is built^ and quite an extent of the 
country surrounding. Oxen are fattened on the 
products of the farm, and shipped for sale to Eng- 
lish markets. Dairying is also conducted on a 
laro^e scale, and the Castlebar brands of butter 
bring the highest prices in the Loudon markets. 
This stock-raising, and butter-making, may not be 
regarded as " noble " employment ; but this " Peer 
of the Kealm'^ enters the lists against all com- 
petitors. His lordship is a gallant soldier. He 
commanded the British cavalry forces during the 
Crimean war, and ordered that fatal " charge of 
the Light Brigade,^^ having received his instruc- 
tions from Lord Eaglan, the general-in-chief. The 
Earl of Cardigan, a fiery Scotchman, and brother- 
in-law of Lord Lucan, amazed at the ^^ order,'^ 
took his place at the head of his ^^ brigade/' ex- 
claiming, " Here goes the last of the Cardigans ! " 
A blunder had been committed, but by whom ? 

'' Forward the Light-Brigade ! 

Charge for the guns !" he said : 

Into the valley of death 

Bode the six hundred. 

" Forward the Light-Brigade !" 

Was there a man dismayed ? 

Not tho' the soldier knew 

Some one had blundered." 



52 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

That fatal charge led to such bitterness of feeling 
between Raglan and Lucan, that the latter was 
recalled by the Queen. A dozen miles from Castle- 
bar, there are two exceedingly romantic lakes, 
Lough Conn and Lough Cullin. Bordering the 
lakes are high mountains, green meadows, forests 
of oak and ash, tracts of blooming purple heather, 
clusters of shining cottages, and the stately man- 
sions and sparkling lawns of country barons. By 
invitation of a witty and intelligent you^g Irish 
gentleman, we enjoy an excursion in a jaunting 
car around those lakes on a lovely summer's after- 
noon. To these shining shores English tourists 
frequently come for the purpose of fishing. In 
these waters perch, pike, trout and salmon sport, 
and many a ^^ speckled beauty'' of large size and 
fine flavor has rewarded the skill of the fisherman. 
Game, feathered and four-footed, abound in the 
woods. Pontoon should be visited. Americans, 
we are informed, seldom wander in this direction, 
but those who come are delighted. 

Large tracts of land in this part of Ireland 
have, in years past, been laid waste by the tyranny 
of landlords. During those dark years — '43 to 
M8 — when the crops failed, and the tenantry were 
unable to pay the rent, thousands were " ejected'^ 
from their homes, and those homes razed to the 
ground, by the despotism of the owners of the soil. 



KILLARNEY TO DUBLI:N. 53 

The darkest chapters in Irish history^ are those 
descriptive of the cruelty and oppression practised 
upon the peasantry of the western part of Ireland, 
during those mournful years of famine. To-day 
we may travel scores of miles without seeing a 
house. Twenty-five years ago, along these sloping 
hillsides and blooming valleys, there w^ere large 
and populous villages. But those villages fell 
before the onward march of the detested "crow- 
bar-brigade.^^ The fiat went forth from the local 
sovereigns, and the impoverished tenantry were 
forcibly ejected from the homes of their ancestors, 
and compelled to bid adieu for ever to the land 
of their forefathers. Thousands went to England 
and Scotland^ but the larger portion emigrated 
to America. Here and there in our travels we 
meet with a "son of the sod,^^ who has returned 
either for the purpose of visiting some relatives, 
or of purchasing a little farm, and remaining to 
die in " auld Ireland." 

These tracts of depopulated country are now 
pasture lands. Flocks and herds graze upon the 
former sites of happy villages. Fences that marked 
the boundaries of farms have been levelled ; the 
old and stately trees that shaded the homestead 
have been cut down ; the roads that united neigh- 
bouring villages have been upturned with the 
plow ; the clusters of shining cottages have fallen 



54 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

before the " crowbar ;'' and thousands of the 
"ejected^' inhabitants are scattered to the ends of 
the earth. 

We look in vain along these hillsides and 
through these valleys for a house; and we listen for 
the sound of the human voice^ but the silence is 
like that of death; we search over those broad 
acres for some happy group of joyous children, 
but none can be found. What a change in a land, 
fertile and beautiful ! Flocks and herds owned by 
Irish landlords or English and Scottish tenants, 
roam over the broad acres, usurping the place of 
men. 

" Sweet was the sound, when oft at evening close, 
Ul3 yonder hill the village murmur rose ; 
But now the sounds of population fail, 
No cheerful murmurs fluctuate in the gale, 
No busy steps the grass-grown footway tread, 
But all the blooming flush of life is fled. 
Amidst thy bowers the tyrant hand is seen, 
And desolation saddens all the green." 

Some of these landlords having sown the wind, are 
now reaping the whirlwind. So cruel, merciless, 
and tyrannous, has been their treatment of the 
impoverished inhabitants, that acts of violence 
have been resorted to, and many of these land- 
owners have been compelled to leave the country. 
They now reside either in England or on the Con- 
tinent. There stands the lordly mansion, sur- 



^KILLARNEY TO DUBLIN. 55 

rounded by beautiful groves and lovely lawns, but 
it is empty, and the owner fears to return, lest the 
bullet or the dagger should speedily avenge the 
injuries inflicted upon a helpless people. 

The rents are collected by ^'agents/' and the 
affairs of the ^^ absentee" managed by these much 
despised officials. Recent legislation, however, 
has been more favorable to the interests of the 
tenantry. In case of ejectment, or forced removal 
at the termination of a lease, compensation is 
awarded for improvements made. But the relation 
between landlord and tenant is not the happiest. 
Keligious animosities add fuel to the flame. And 
the ineradicable hatred of English rule, renders 
fruitless the conciliatory measures of those humane 
^'proprietors," who are known to be favorable to 
the '^powers that be.'^ But harsh and severe as 
the English rule may have been in the past, and 
repressive and unjust as doubtless much of the 
present legislation may be, still it would be an evil 
day for the island were the British forces to be 
withdrawn, and Ireland henceforth to be governed 
by the ^^ Fenians.^' The Irish people are patriotic, 
but not united. Even the men elected to the 
British Parliament, for the very purpose of secur- 
ing national emancipation, quarrel in the presence 
of their enemies, much after the fashion of the 
Kilkenny cats. This country, with soil so fertile. 



56 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

scenery so varied and beautiful, climate so genial 
and healthful, should be prosperous and happy. 
There are certain features of this western country, 
and customs of these witty people, that are worthy 
of a passing notice. 

The farm-houses are not widely separated, as in 
America. Farmers are "next-door neighbours.'^ 
Clusters of shining cottages reveal the homes of 
the peasantry. These villages frequently occupy 
a commanding position, and the outlook from 
some of them is quite picturesque. At the close 
of the day, the old men gather in groups, and dis- 
cuss the growth of crops, or the election of a new 
" mimber of parleement." The young men and 
maidens need not walk miles to see each other and 
talk about future prospects ; here they meet at a 
moment's notice ! This village life is exceedingly 
social. It is said by those who ought to know, 
that many of the young men of New England, 
wearied with the monotony of farm-life, forsake 
their homes and repair to neighboring towns or 
distant cities. The farm-houses are too far apart, 
and the young people crave for society, companion- 
ship. Thus the farms are left uncultivated, while 
the factories are overcrowded. The young Irish 
farmers are subjected to no such inconveniences. 
Scores of people meet both in going to and return- 
ing from their daily toil. And when the labors of 



KILLARNEY TO DUBLIN. 57 

the day are ended, they gather in joyous crowds 
along the sloping hills, and various innocent 
amusements give wings to the happy twilight 
hours. 

'' How often have I bless'd the coming day, 
When toil remitting lent its turn to play, 
And all the village train from labor free, 
Led up their sports beneath the spreading tree ! 
While many a pastime circled in the shade, 
The young contending, while the old surveyed ; 
And many a gambol frolicked o'er the ground, 
And sleights of art and feats of strength went round, 
And still, as each repeated pleasure tired. 
Succeeding sports the mirthful band inspired." 

But the spectacle of cattle leaving the pasture, 
and entering the dwelling of their owners, there to 
abide during the night, is certainly both novel and 
amusing. But this is the case. Cows and calves 
and peasants do really occupy the same building. 
The houses are one story high, a loft being added. 
The hens come home to roost upon one of the beams 
of the ^'loft.^' The cows come home from pasture 
and occupy that part of the house under the ^4oft," 
usually at the end of the building. 

The cattle are securely tied to posts, and they 

stand up, lie down, or ruminate, just as they 

please ; while the chanticleer by his vigorous 

crowing, informs the sleeper that the day is about 

3 



58 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

to dawn. And no inconvenience is experienced. 
Neither sounds nor smells annoy in the least these 
people of simple tastes. In alluding to this family 
relationship, and the intimacy existing between 
the man and the brute, and expressing some sur- 
prise at the novel spectacle, the response made by 
a witty Irishman was decidedly amusing. "Yis 
sur, and sure you ought to visit the place where 
the pig sits on the chair, and looks out uv the 
v/indy.^^ I should like to visit that village but 
time forbids. 

The style of dress, both of men and women, is 
also striking. The materials are largely of home 
make. Flax is grown and manufactured. The old 
spinning wheel hums all day long, driven by the 
pliant foot of the old lady of seventy summers. 
Wool is raised, and flannels and frieze are woven 
and dyed, to suit both taste and temperature. 
The women like bright colors. The red is the 
most popular. Most garments are shapely, and 
somew^hat "fancy.'^ Low shoes, woolen hose, 
knee breeches with brass buttons, dark-blue frieze 
coat, — swallow-tail pattern, white or colored vest, 
necktie of brilliant hue, and black hat, give these 
Irishmen an attractive appearance. A blackthorn 
or "shillelah^^ steadies the movement, and gives 
promise of action. And such '^ action,'^ inspired 
by a "dhrop of the crathur," may be frequently 



KILLAENEY TO DUBLIN. 59 

witnessed at the close of the market, or during the 
progress of a "fair." 

The scenes by the wayside are occasionally 
amusing. Donkeys are numerous. This animal 
is the poor man's burden bearer. Here they come 
in troops, laden with peat. Yonder they march 
with large and heavy sacks upon their backs. 

And here is a little fellow carrying on his back 
a sack of oats, behind which is seated a good- 
sized Irish woman smoking a pipe ! There is a 
suspicious looking movement in the eye of this 
donkey, as if he were meditating a sudden lurch, 
or other strategical movement to relieve himself 
of the oppressive burden. And such flank move- 
ments are by no means rare. '' The baste will pre- 
fer a good batin to carry in' a heavy load," — this is 
the testimony of the drivers. And such is the tes- 
timony of both men and women, who have found 
themselves suddenly sprawling upon the ground, 
while the delighted donkey was galloping in the 
distance, and braying loudly as if laughing at the 
fun. 

We are much interested in the flowers and the 
birds. In the mountains, the blooming purple 
heather is a pretty sight. Along the roads, the 
daisies and the buttercups are everywhere seen. 
The starlike daisies greet us from every hill side 
and valley. 



60 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

" I see thee glittering from afar : — 
And then thou art a pretty star ; 
Not quite so fair as many are 

In heaven above thee ! 
Yet like a star with glittering crest, 
Self-poisecl in air, thou seem'st to rest ; 
May peace come never to his nest, 
Who shall reprove thee !" 

' And what numbers of butterflies on brilliant 
^Ymg fly past, or whirl about, as if inviting us to 
a chase. 

"Oh pleasant, pleasant were the days, 
The time when in our childish plays, 
My sister Emmeline and I 
Together chased the butterfly ! 
A very hunter did I rush, 
Upon the prey : with leaps and springs 
I foUow'd on from brake to bush ; " — 

The bird songs too, sound strangely. Here is 
the cuckoo, a very strange bird indeed. It builds 
no nest. Whether this arises from sheer laziness, 
want of skill, or lack of parental instinct, we can- 
not affirm. With unblushing effrontery, it lays its 
eggs in the nests of other birds, showing very little 
taste in the manner of its selection. Like some 
beings higher up in the scale of existence, it appro- 
priates the labors of others without even saying, 
— " by your leave.' It is a cheat, a fraud : and 
yet as cheats and frauds of pleasing exterior, and 



KILLARJvEY TO DUBLIis^. 61 

charming voice, are admired and even courted by 
reason of these superficial accomplishments, so we 
forget the failings of this bird, as we look upon its 
plumage, and listen to its song. 

" O blithe new comer ! I have heard, 
I hear thee and rejoice : 

cuckoo ! shall I call thee bird, 
Or but a wandering voice ? 
"While I am lying in the grass, 
Thy loud notes smite my ear ? 
From hill to hill it seems to pass, 
At once far off and near ! 

The same whom in my school-boy days 

1 listen'd to : that cry 

Which made me look a thousand ways, 
In bush, and tree, and sky." 

And yet there are birds of more joyous wing 
and varied song than the cuckoo. The cuckoo 
simply repeats its own name while, if possible, 
hiding in the thick foliage; but the skylark takes 
a loftier flight, climbing into the air, until some- 
times lost to sight. Then the song of the sky- 
lark is exhilarating. This little dark-brown bird 
pours forth its music with the most passionate 
earnestness. Upward it mounts, fluttering and 
flashing in the sunlight, singing with an enthusi- 
asm that is inspiring, — so wild and free, and full 
of joy ! How we love to lie upon the grass and 
watch it in its upward flight. How we would 



62 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

love to soar to those sunny heights, where it 
makes the air musical with its melody ! 

" Up with me ! up with me, into the clouds ! 
For thy song, Lark, is strong ; 
Up with me, up with me into the clouds ! 

Singing, singing, 
With all the heavens about thee ringing. 

Lift me, guide me till I find 
That spot that seems so to thy mind ! 

I have walk'd through wilderness dreary, 

And to-day my heart is weary ; 

Had I now the wings of a fairy, 

Up to thee would I fly. 

There is madness about thee, and joy divine 

In that song of thine ; 
Up with me, up with me, high and high. 
To thy banquetting place in the sky ! 
Joyous as morning. 
Thou art laughing and scorning ; " — 

Our travels are now through ^' Fairy Land." 
The people believe in the existence of fairies. A 
mountain in the distance is declared to be the 
home in this section of these mysterious beings. 
What and who they are, and where they came 
from, are questions frequently discussed with great 
seriousness by the ancient of the land. Some 
believe they are evil spirits released for a season, 
and placed upon probation. 



KILLARNEY TO DUBLIJS-. 63 

That they have power over man and beast is 
firmly believed. Peculiar forms of disease that 
afflict both man and beast, are ascribed directly 
to their agency, and strange stories are told of 
their doings and misdoings. Certain individuals 
are supposed to be familiar with their movements, 
and to influence their action. These are usually old 
women. These old women are herb gatherers, and 
compounders of strange mixtures. They prescribe 
for man and beast, and marvelous are the stories 
told of the healing properties of their decoctions. 

Then the ghost stories related by some of these 
villagers are startling ; and the houses said to be 
haunted are pointed out with strange gestures and 
suspicious looks. These things are believed sin- 
cerely by the ignorant, and their w^ords and acts 
prove the sincerity of their belief. But of course 
they are deluded. 'No intelligent man or woman 
believes in fairies, or ghosts, or haunted houses. 
Poets find in them excellent material and pleasant 
company : and travelers may, after a long march, 
be amused and even refreshed by the ^' yarns ^' spun 
by boozy benighted bogtrotters. But the fairies are 
creations of fancy, and the ghosts are the creatures of 
fear. The sketch of peasant life in the west of Ire- 
land would indeed be imperfect without an allusion 
to the subject. Let us be slow^, however, in casting 
stones at these simple-minded people. How many 



64 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

horse-shoes are still nailed over the doors : how 
many leather shoes are still hurled after the newly 
wedded couple : how many wishes are breathed 
upon the first sight of the new moon : hov\^ many 
calling themselves respectable, gather around the 
table turner and spirit-rapper, to hear from the 
dead — and this, too, in enlightened and Christian- 
ized America ! 

In some villages we meet with individuals who 
speak only the Gaelic or Irish language; but by 
all we are treated kindly, and questioned closely 
about "Ameriky." 

Sitting one afternoon upon a cliff that over- 
looked meadows, rivers, lakes, woods and culti- 
vated fields, we were quickly surrounded by some 
twenty of both sexes. One old woman, in broken 
English, inquired diligently about her daughter 
who lived in Philadelphia. She solemnly charged 
us to inform that naughty girl, that her mother 
was anxiously awaiting a message, and a '^ triflin' 
sum o' money.'^ We promised compliance, sug- 
gesting, however, the difficulty in a large city of 
recognizing that particular individual. But the 
old woman replied, '^ In sure it's my dawther 
I want ye to spake to in Phillydelphy.'^ That 
was sufficient. We hope to meet ^^ her dawther'^ 
some fine Thursday afternoon parading on Chest- 
nut street, when she shall be reproved for her 



KILLARNEY TO DUBLIN. 65 

negligence, and urged to transmit with all despatch 
that "thriflin' sum o' money .'^ The hospitality 
of these people is proverbial. After answering a 
number of questions, and imparting some required 
information, a woman suggested the propriety of 
providing refreshments. Several pressing invita- 
tions to come to the village, were extended and 
politely refused. Then the command was given 
to go to the nearest house and procure some 
'^pratees and eggs, and a mug o' milk for the 
jintlemun from. Ameryky.'' In order to avoid 
swallowing what we did not relish, we bade them 
good-bye and pressed on in our journey. Then 
came blessings upon the stranger. ^' God be wi' 
ye sur.'' ^' God bliss ye and take ye home safely.'^ 
Such were the repeated utterances of old and young. 

These parting blessings, and pious greetings, are 
exceedingly beautiful and impressive. In meeting 
a traveler, he always salutes you with the words, 
"God save you, sur." Upon entering a field, 
" God bless you,'' are the words with which you 
are greeted by every laborer; and in these fields 
women work side by side with men, from dewy 
morn till dusky eve. Indeed, if we were to judge 
these people by the language used in salutations 
and farewells, w^e should regard them as both 
orthodox and pious. 

It is true, that relics of paganism still exist in 



6Q WANDERINGS IN EUKOPE. 

their festivals and bonfires ; and yet they appear 
to be devout worshippers, after the manner of the 
Roman Catholic Church. They are regular in 
their attendance upon the services of that Church. 
Distance does not afford an excuse for absence. 
They walk miles over the mountains and through 
the valleys, that they may kneel before the altar 
on the Sabbath day. And this trait of character 
we admire. Roman Catholics, in their promptness 
and regularity at church services, are examples to 
certain classes of Protestants. How many Pro- 
testants lounge lazily at home on God's holy day, 
or plead a very short distance, or a seeming change 
of weather, as an excuse for non-attendance upon 
the services in the house of God. Would that in 
the matter of church attendance, they were like 
unto those whom they affect to despise 1 

But we must leave this blooming wilderness, and 
repair to the capital. The distance is about one 
hundred miles, and we travel by rail. Along the 
iron pathway are the mansionsof some of Ireland's 
proudest and wealthiest noblemen : the seat of 
the Earl of Mayo : the home of Lord Cloncurry : 
the beautiful residence of the Duke of Leicester, 
approached by smooth winding pathways, and 
surrounded by velvety lawns, and groves of elm, 
ash and oak. The ^^ guard ^' unlocks our prison 
door, and cries out "Dooblin !" 




Cc^^^^g^^s 




CHAPTER IV. 

DUBLIN TO DERRY. 

DuBLTi"^, the capital of Ireland, situated on the 
river Liifey, by which it is divided into nearly 
two equal j^arts, is certainly a beautiful city. The 
ap2)roaches to it, remind the traveler of that 
charming city of the West — Philadelphia. The 
population is 245,000, and the number of houses 
25,000. The principal thoroughfares are very 
wide, — in some parts as wide as Broad street, 
Philadelphia. The side- walks paved with smooth 
flags, and the streets with stone, are kept quite 
clean. The houses are uniformly high, and built 
of brick and stone. Some of the stores on the 
great promenades are magnificent structures. The 
city, to-day, is thronged with people ; the aristo- 
cracy are out in carriage and on foot, making 
quite a display. The contrasts in the shape and 
color of garments, and in the methods of locomo- 
tion are quite striking. Here marches the blue- 
jacketed policeman, and there the red-coated sol- 
dier. A horseman rides through the street on 

67 



68 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

prancing steed ; his dangling sword, nodding 
plume, and martial movement, attract the attention 
of the crowd, and excite considerable enthusiasm. 
Tram-cars crowded with excursionists, roll in 
every direction ; carriages of strange shape, occu- 
pied by Irish nobility, and driven by liveried 
coachmen, sweep along the fashionable prome- 
nades ; jaunting cars, drawn by spirited ponies, fly 
over the bridges, and swing around the " green ;" 
and handsome men and women move gracefully 
in pairs, exchanging happy smiles. The appear- 
ance of the people pleases us : and we are delighted 
in listening to their conversation, — so soft and 
sweet are the tones of the voice. We have never 
heard the English language spoken with more 
ease and fluency than by the educated citizens of 
Dublin. 

There are a few objects worthy of special note, 
as we wander through the streets and suburbs of 
this ancient city. Yonder is the house in which 
the poet Moore was born. It is a three-story 
brick, and now used as a "corner grocery.'^ This 
tall aristocratic mansion is noted as the birthplace 
of the great Duke of Wellington. It took a 
Dublin Irishman to conquer Napoleon. In 1817, 
the citizens of Dublin in appreciation of the Duke's 
genius and services, erected the " Wellington Tes- 
timonial,'' in Phoenix Park. This memorial cost 



DUBLIN TO DERBY. 69 

1100.000. Here is the "Bank of Ireland," a 
magnificent building costing $500,000. This was 
formerly used as the '^ Parliament House." We 
are admitted to the old " House of Lords.'^ The 
furniture is the same as when the room was occu- 
pied by those lordly representatives — even the old 
tapestry still decorates the walls. Trinity College, 
a notable and ancient institution of learning, is 
visited with much interest. It was founded by 
the authority of Pope John XXII. in the four- 
teenth century. Bronze statues of Burke and 
Goldsmith — both of whom w^ere graduates of this 
institution — stand at the entrance. The buildings 
are conveniently grouped, and attractive, and 
thirteen hundred students are in attendance. The 
library building is 270 feet long, and contains over 
200,000 volumes. In this library are a num- 
ber of very valuable manuscripts, — one of them 
being a Latin copy of the Gospels, and attributed 
to St. Columba, who lived in the sixth century. 

Christ's Church Cathedral, dates back to the 
11th century, and here in ancient times was kept St. 
Patrick's staff, and other objects of pious regard. 
In this cathedral, the Church liturgy was first 
read in Ireland, in the English tongue. There 
are many monuments erected to the memory of 
distinguished men. Some of these are very beau- 
tiful. 



70 WANDEEINGS IN EUEOPE. 

The Cathedral of St. Patrick occupies the site 
of an ancieiit structure erected by St. Patrick. 
And the well at which that venerable man bap- 
tized his converts is enclosed in the present build- 
ing. The janitor leads us up one of the aisles, 
uncovers the well^ and offers a glass of water. 
And is this the identical well at which St. Patrick 
baptized his converts, fourteen hundred years 
ago ? ^^ Yes, sur, sure of it." We taste the 
water and make no reply. It may be, and doubt- 
less is, the identical well. The Cathedral is cruci- 
form, consisting of nave, transept and choir. It has 
recently been ^^ restored" by Sir B. L. Guinness 
— the Dublin brewer — at an expense of $900,000! 
The pulpit cost $5,000, and was erected by Mr. 
Guinness as a memorial of a deceased friend. 
There are a few monuments erected to the memory 
of distinguished men. This marble slab marks 
the resting place of Jonathan Swift, who was once 
dean of the Cathedral. The music ^^ furnished" 
by the choir, is said to be " very fine." The prin- 
cipal singer receives the modest salary of $2,500 a 
year ! And this too, in poor ^^auld Ireland !" 

The Castle of Dublin is worthy of a visit. Here 
reigns and rules the Lord-Lieutenant. He is the 
representative of Her Majesty, and assisted by a 
*' privy council," governs the island. The various 
apartments are spacious, elegantly furnished, and 



DUBLIN TO DERRY. 71 

beautifully decorated. The vice- regal chapel is a 
gem. It is most elaborately ornamented with oak 
carvings, and beautified with the emblazoned 
" arms '^ of the successive vice-roys. 

Brilliant were the receptions, and costly the 
banquets in this castle, during the reign of the 
polished Chesterfield as Lord-Lieutenant. Here 
assembled the chivalry and beauty of the Emerald 
Isle. Here walked in triumph Miss Ambrose, 
^'the matchless beauty^' of the court. And here 
too, the Misses Gunnings, declared to be the 
'' handsomest women alive," won the admiration 
of the assembled courtiers. 

Phoenix Park affords the citizens ample play- 
ground. It covers an area of 1,750 acres, and is 
adorned with statues and monuments. 

Dublin is not distinguished for its commerce. 
In former days the manufacture of " poplin " w^as 
a leading industry; but at the present time, only 
200 looms are at work upon this Irish fabric. 
The wages paid mechanics and laboring men, vary 
from 75 cents to $1.50 per day. 

We enjoy a Sabbath in this ancient city. Quiet 
prevails, the churches are crowded, and but few 
cases of drunkenness are observed. In the Pres- 
byterian churches the singing is good, and the 
preaching excellent. The sermons are not written, 
but ''notes" are used. The preachers wear a 



72 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

gown, which makes us doubtful, for a while, of the 
"ecclesiastical connections" of the incumbent; but 
the absence of organs and responses, and the 
presence of Francis Kouse, aiford inspiring assu- 
rance of the character of the place. 

The Sabbath-schools are not quite so well 
attended, nor are the services as "interesting'^ as in 
America. Thorough home instruction, is an article 
of faith with Irish Presbyterians. The training of 
the young is not handed over exclusively to the 
Sabbath-school teacher ; hence perhaps the slim 
attendance upon the services of the school. But 
the sanctuary is magnified : parents and children 
walk hand in hand to the house of God: whole 
families maybe seen sitting side by side; and thus 
the children early learn to respect and reverence 
the place of prayer. Parents appear to exercise 
some authority over their children, and children 
— even of large growth — seem to yield a willing 
obedience. 

But we climb the "Nelson Monument," 121 feet 
high, and take a last view of the Irish metropolis. 
What a wide and magnificent prospect I The city 
lies at our feet encircled by green fields and waving 
woods; and the bay shimmers in the distance, 
flecked with tiny sail, that move phantom-like 
over its shining waters. Few cities have given to 
the world greater men. Here Wellington, Burke, 



DUBLIN TO DERRY. 73 

Moore, and Grattan, first beheld the light of day. 
And in yonder venerable University were edu- 
cated those, who, in the centuries past, adorned 
the various professions, shaped the policy of kings, 
and roused the nations by their lofty and impas- 
sioned eloquence. 

Belfast is distant from Dublin 112 miles, and 
for 50 miles the railroad skirts the Irish sea. The 
view of land and water is charming. Yonder are 
the Skerry Islands, to which St. Patrick fled when 
pursued by the Druids. Here is the village of 
Balbriggan, famous as the birth place of the " Bal- 
briggan hose." And this is the town of Drogheda, 
and yonder the ^" Boyne w^aters !" This is the 
scene of one of the most memorable and eventful 
battles in Irish history. On July 1st, 1690, Wil- 
liam, Prince of Orange, met and defeated James 
II., -in the "battle of the Boy ne.'^ Throughout this 
region, the soil is well cultivated, the houses neat, 
and the surroundings attractive. The smoothly 
shaven lawns are wdiite with bleaching linen, and 
the whir and hum of spindles, and the crowds of 
keen-eyed merchants, tell the traveller that he has 
reached Belfast. 

This city is the commercial metropolis of Ire- 
land. The situation and surroundings are pleasing 
to the eye ; and the business activity of the people, 
the neatness of the dwellings, and cleanness of the 



74 WANDERINGS IN EUKOPE. 

streets, make a favorable impression upon the 
tourist. Northeastward, is the Belfast lake — a 
beautiful sheet of water — twelve miles long and 
five broad, over which the shipping pass to the 
sea. Northward, Cave Hill rises to a height of 
1,200 feet, from the summit of which a command- 
ing view may be had of the lake, the ocean, the 
greater part of County Down, and the western 
coast of Scotland. 

At the base of this hill is the magnificent re- 
sidence of the Marquis of Donegal, the owner of 
the soil. To the south and east, the fields stretch 
away into the dim distance, revealing in the 
waving grass and ripening grain, every shade of 
green. 

In 1871, Belfast had a population of 175,000. 
Of this number 119,000 were Protestant; and of 
the latter 61,000 were Presbyterians. This deno- 
mination constitutes over one-third of the entire 
population. The principal streets are wide, well 
paved, and quite clean. The stores are large, well 
stocked with the ^^ finest linen," — the fancy dis- 
play in the windows equalling anything of the 
kind we have heretofore seen. There are quite a 
number of handsome private residences; some 
magnificent public buildings — colleges, hospitals, 
museums — built in different styles of architecture, 
on sites beautiful and commanding. The Queen's 



DUBLIN TO DERRY. T5 

College, is an imposing edifice, 600 feet long, and 
pleasantly located. 

The people of Belfast are bright, active, intel- 
ligent. Such healthy-looking men and women we 
have never before seen. Here are faces round as 
the full moon, and ruddy as the sunset. And then 
the tones of the voice are so musical. What music 
when three thousand unite, as in the Ulster Hall, 
in singing some familiar and dearly- loved psalm 
or paraphrase ! 

The industries are numerous. Shipbuilding is 
conducted on quite a large scale. Some of the 
best boats of the ''White Star Line^' were 
launched from the yard on Queen's Island. 

The linen trade, however, engages the attention, 
and furnishes employment to the larger portion of 
the population. It is to the manufacture and sale of 
linen, that Belfast is indebted for the wealth it pos- 
sesses, and the influence it wields. There are a 
number of mills, — some of them employing as 
many as 3,000 operatives. All the flax handled is 
not grown in Ireland, nor is the Irish flax regarded 
as the superior article. 

Flax is imported from Russia, Belgium and 
France. Some manufacturers prefer the French, 
while others regard the Belgic, as the better ma- 
terial. 

We are conducted through one of the largest 



76 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

mills, and witness the various processes of scutch- 
ing, carding, spinning, warping and weaving. 
Around us whir and hum over 30,000 spindles, 
while 2,000 operatives, — men, women and girls, 
— watch and guide the flying machinery, pack and 
press the newly-made fabric, and pile it on wait- 
ing wagons, that bear it to the merchant's store. 
The men receive from seven to nine dollars, and 
the women and girls from two to three dollars per 
week. 

The quantity of thread and linen stored in some 
of these warehouses is very large. A merchant 
who kindly conducts us through his vast establish- 
ment, states that in taking stock recently, "he 
figured up for fun," the quantity of yarn on hand, 
and found that it would encircle the globe 107 
times ! 

There are schools organized in connection with 
some of these factories. Rooms are furnished with 
desks, benches and books. Maps hang upon the 
walls. Teachers are appointed and paid by the 
company. And in these schools the " half-timers" 
are educated without charge. These ^' half-timers" 
are the young of both sexes, who are only em- 
ployed, or permitted to labor, a certain number of 
hours each day. The remaining hours are spent 
in these " factory schools,'' and thus mental train- 
ing, and physical toil, go hand in hand. 



[^DUBLIN TO DERRY. 77 

But the great event of the week is the meeting 
of the General Assembly. Belfast is the strong- 
hold of Presbyterlanism ; and the assembling of 
the ministers and elders of this orthodox church, 
in this orthodox town, excites quite an interest 
among both rich and poor, old and young. 

The church in which the Assembly meets is St. 
Enoch's, a recently erected edifice, capable of seat- 
ing over two thousand people. The internal ar- 
rangements are novel. There are two galleries, 
and there are two platforms. Upon each platform 
stands a pulpit, the higher platform being nearly 
on a plane with the upper gallery. 

The members of the Assembly, and delegates 
from foreign bodies, occupy seats on the first floor. 
The galleries are " reserved,'^ — an admission fee 
being charged, varying from six to twelve cents. 

The Irish General Assembly is not a represen- 
tative body, ministerially. There are some six 
hundred ministers in connection with the church, 
and they are all supposed to be present at every an- 
nual meeting. Each church is represented by one 
elder. The moderator is elected, not by calling 
the entire roll of members, but by calling the roll 
of Presbyteries. Presbyteries vote, through some 
individual member, for the candidate put in nomi- 
nation. The nominee having the majority of 
Presbyterial votes, is declared moderator. This 



78 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

officer is thus practically elected at the Presbyterial 
meetings held prior to the meeting of the Assem- 
bly, and is not voted for directly by that body. 

To those not familiar with such time-saving 
ecclesiastical machinery, tlie results are both sur- 
prising and amusing. The echo of the last Pres- 
byterial vote has scarcely died away among the 
rafters, before the newly-elected moderator steps 
upon the platform gowned and handed, and pro- 
ceeds to deliver a discourse of immense length, and 
of great philosophic and theologic pretensions ! 
He knew all about the " coming man,'^ and pre- 
pared himself accordingly. And while the voting 
was in progress, he was decking himself in an ad- 
jacent room with the robes of office. In the 
transacting of business, there is an amusing admix- 
ture of the grave and the gay, the humorous and 
the solemn, the noisy and disorderly, and the pro- 
foundly meditative and prayerful. 

During the discussion of some exciting topic, 
the moderation and self-restraint of some of the 
members are severely tested. The ^' Sustentation" 
scheme excites a lively debate. If there be any 
subject upon which an Irish preacher can talk 
with force and fervor, it is ^' Sustentation.^^ And 
the result is manifest to all. Never have we seen 
a better '^ sustained'^ set of theologians. Such 
theological limbs, bodies, and heads, are only seen 



DUBLIN TO DERBY. 79 

in Ireland. There is a considerable amount of 
muscular Christianity, in this ancient and venera- 
ble body. 

Then, these preachers are splendid debaters, — so 
keen, logical, fluent, impassioned, brilliant ! And 
how mercilessly they handle an opponent ! Nev- 
er shall we forget the scene witnessed during the 
discussion of the " organ question.^^ There was 
very little harmony in the body, while the use of 
the " harmonium" was the subject of debate. Some 
of the brethren had, during the previous year, in- 
troduced that harmless and helpful instrument to 
their choirs. The young people were delighted. 
Some of the old people were offended. The mat- 
ter was brought to the attention of Presbytery, 
and now came before the General Assembly. What 
excitement among those venerable men ! Yonder 
is an old patriot so opposed to organs, that he per- 
sists in occupying the platform, while two co-pres- 
byters are endeavoring to lead him off. No, never ! 
until by facts and figures, dates and deliverances, 
he '^ shuts the mouths of these patent worshipping 
machines ! " And yet, when the meeting is ad- 
journed, there is no more genial, jovial, warm- 
hearted set of men on earth. All that occurred 
during the heat of discussion is forgiven and 
forgotten, and they gather round the well- 
laden table of some generous host, and give 



80 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

swift wings to the hours, by their amusing anec- 
dotes, quick flashes of wit, and merry peals of 
laughter. 

Apart from the stated meetings of the Assembly, 
there were several pleasant gatherings of the mem- 
bers, and invited guests. Prominent among these, 
were the breakfasts at Ulster hall. These break- 
fasts are provided by the Presbyterian ladies of 
Belfast, for the members of Assembly, their wives 
and daughters, and the deputations from foreign 
bodies. 

The Hall is an immense structure, and most 
beaufully decorated for the occasion. The flags of 
those nations having delegates in attendance, 
are gracefully suspended from the galleries, and 
among them the ^' stars and stripes/' 

Sixty tables, each fifty feet long, groan under the 
most tempting viands, — every conceivable luxury. 
Flowers of various hue, and tastefally arranged, 
grow out of tiny vases, making the air odorous 
with perfume. Hundreds of sweet-voiced, rosy 
cheeked maidens, flit hither and thither anticipat- 
ing some want, or, tempting the bashful guest with 
a sugar-coated morsel. One thousand guests are 
seated, — the delegates from abroad being honored 
with conspicuous positions at the Moderator's 
table. The arrangements are admirable, and the 
success complete. Some of the brethren are called 



BELFAST. IRISH GEXERAL ASSEMBLY. 81 

upon for speeches; and such mirth-provoking, 
and laughter-exciting addresses, can only be heard 
at an Irish feast. And is laughter an enemy to 
,good digestion? By no means. Who are the 
dyspeptics ? Are they those who at the table en- 
joy ^' the feast of reason, and the flow of soul?'' 
Certainly not. They are the solemn eaters ; the 
men and women who go to, and return from the 
table, as if that were to be their last earthly meal. 
They eat in silence, and the penalty is paid in suf- 
fering. Not so apparently with these Irishmen. 
They '^ laugh and grow fat." 

A breakfast is provided by the ladies forming 
the " Total Abstinence Society," and the Assembly 
invited. All are welcome, provided they be 
'Hotal abstainers." Being duly qualified, we 
proceed to the lecture-room of Dr. Cook's old 
church on May Street. AVe are surprised and de- 
lighted, at the number of ministers and elders pre- 
sent, — headed by the gentlemanly Moderator. 
Temperance is becoming popular, among both the 
ministry, and laity, of the Irish Presbyterian 
Church. Multitudes are total abstainers. And 
during the discussions in the General Assembly, 
quite an advanced position was taken by many of 
the leading members, and some very able speeches 
made in advocacy of the doctrine. The whiskey- 
bottle, and the punch- bowl, are gradually disap- 
4 



82 WANDERINGS IN EUKOPE. 

pearing; and even the wine-cup, is seldom seen 
upon the table. Drinking is a dangerous custom. 
And the scenes of drunkenness, witnessed in these 
Irish towns, are heart-rending. Little children 
clad in torn garments, leading drunken fathers and 
mothers along the highways ! Oh, what misery, 
and wretchedness, and woe, the cup brings to 
thousands of Irish homes ! 

A grand Sabbath-school meeting, is held annu- 
ally during the sessions of the Assembly. Three 
of the largest churches are selected, and the entire 
Sabbath-school force of Belfast, teachers and schol- 
ars, march from their respective schools to the 
places appointed. 

These thousands of teachers and scholars, march- 
ing through the streets of a Sabbath afternooon, 
Avith Bible in hand, was a spectacle not soon to be 
forgotten. Nor were they all clad in purple, and 
*' fine linen.'' Many of these boys and girls, be- 
longing to the mission schools, were bare-footed, 
and wore soiled and tattered garments. Over 
three thousand assembled at Dr. Cook's old 
church on May Street, and were addressed by 
delegates from Scotland, France, and America. 

The reception given by the General Assembly 
to the various deputations from abroad, is hearty 
and enthusiastic. Never have we listened to such 
thundering applause so long continued. Matteo 



BELFAST. EECEPTION OF DELEGATES. 83 

Prochet, from the Italian Church, Pastor Lorriaux, 
of Paris, Dr. Donald Frazer, of London, represent- 
ing the English Presbyterian Church, and Pro- 
fessor Blaikie, of Edinburgh, are heard in succes- 
sion. But it should be stated, that the most 
respectful, and yet the most enthusiastic reception, 
is accorded the delegates from the great Presby- 
terian Church of the United States. The response 
by Dr. William Johnstone, of Belfast, is witty, 
eloquent, brilliant. 

The Irish people, rich and poor, Protestant and 
Roman Catholic, love America. This fact is daily 
impressed upon us, as we wander from place to 
place. In the meanest hovel, and among the 
poorest and most ignorant peasantry in the wilds 
of Con naught, expressions of love for, and interest 
in, the country beyond the sea, were frequent and 
emphatic. And in this city of Belfast, men of 
culture, learning, and wealth, are most enthusiastic 
admirers of America and its institutions. Hence, 
whenever the American delegates appear upon the 
platform, the house is crowded, and the reception 
given is most hearty and inspiring. 

But our duties as a delegate being discharged, 
and the Assembly having adjourned, other places 
must be visited. 

The " Giants' Causeway,'' some forty or fifty miles 
distant, invites us, and we wander thither. This 



84 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

excursion is most enjoyable. The railroad skirts 
the northwest shore of Belfast Lough, affording a 
charming view of the harbor, Cave Hill, and the 
home of the Marquis of Donegal ; then winding 
around the ''Hill/' it runs through well tilled fields, 
with here and there a cluster of shining cottages 
shielded by shady trees, until Antrim is reached. 
At this point the traveller catches a glimpse of 
Lough Neagh, the largest lake in the United 
Kingdom. 

Strange stories are told respecting its origin, and 
the petrifying properties of its waters. 

The formation of the lake, is ascribed to the 
carelessness of a woman ! Poor creatures, for what 
mischief, do the legends and traditions of the past 
hold them responsible ! 

And yet, this carelessness was pardonable. In 
the year 65 (long, long ago), she went to the well 
to draw water. This well must remain covered; 
else it will overflow, and ruin the land. The 
woman, hearing the cries of her infant child, 
hastened away, forgetting to cover this sacred 
fountain. And lo ! it rises and overflows, until 
98,000 acres, are submerged, and the largest lake 
in Great Britain, shines before the eyes of the 
frightened inhabitants ! 

Fishermen of keen sight, and brilliant imagina- 
tion, have discovered beneath its silvery waves, the 



LOUGH NEAGH — BALLYMENA. 85 

ruins of ancient castles. And Moore has published 
the discovery, in the following lines: — 

" On Lougli Neagh's banks, as the fisherman strays, 
When the clear soft eve's declining, 
He sees the round towers of other days 
In the wave, beneath him shining. 

Thus shall memory often, in dreams sublime, 
Catch a glimpse of the days that are over, 

Thus sighing, look through the waves of time. 
For the long faded glories they cover." 

Ballymena, a town of six thousand inhabitants, 
and one of the largest flax and linen markets in 
Ireland, and Coleraine, situated on the beautiful 
river Ban, are both visited. The latter is an 
ancient town, dating back to the sixth century, 
and famous for the manufacture of a fine quality 
of linen, known as " Coleraines." Portrush is 
reached, and we are in sight of the ^^ Causeway." 
At Portrush, the celebrated Adam Clarke was born, 
in 1762. He was apprenticed to a linen manu- 
facturer, but being of studious habits, and finding 
that employment uncongenial, he changed his oc- 
cupation and became a school master. He taught 
school in this town ; and an obelisk erected to his 
memory, occupies a conspicuous position in this 
northern sea-port. 

The Giant's Causeway is along the coast, eight 



86 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

miles distant, and we are off in a jaunting car. 
The day is bright, and a fresh wind blowing. 
Driven shoreward by the pressure of the blast, the 
white-capped waves leap like racers over the 
*' Skerries/^ and dash with fury against the rock- 
bound coast. 

"A coorse day on the wather," mutters our 
coachman, and we readily concur. All along the 
shore, the white limestone rocks are carved into 
the most fantastic shapes, by the action of the 
billow^s. 

Here is the " Giant's Head," and '* Spy glass," 
^Tin Mac-Coule's Nose," the '* Devil's Punch 
Bowl," and the three '^ Sugar Loaves." 

But by far the most interesting object before 
reaching the Causeway, is " Dunluce Castle." The 
ruins are exceedingly picturesque. The castle stands 
one hundred feet above the sea, on a perpendicular 
rock. The outer walls of the castle are built upon 
the edge of the rock, and seem but a continuation 
of it. The entire surface of the rock is covered 
by the ruins, and the only connection with the 
main land, is by a wall about eighteen inches 
broad. In ancient times this castle, thus situated, 
must have been well-nigh impregnable. It was 
erected, fought for, and occupied, centuries ago, by 
the Lords of Ulster. Here, the brave MacQuil- 
lians, and the lion-hearted MacDonalds, measured 



THE giant's causeway. 87 

lances^ and the triumphant chief marched in pride 
around the sea-girt walls. But how changed the 
scene to-day ! The warrior has disappeared ; the 
noise of battle and the voice of song have ceased ; 
while through the deserted halls, the wind plain- 
tively wails, as if over the desolation time has 
wrought. 

The Giant's Causeway is certainly a wonderful 
place. It is quite unique in the spectacle which 
it presents. There are two objects, or classes of 
objects, that challenge our attention. The first, is 
the ^'Headland;" and the second, the ''Cause- 
way'' proper. The Headland rises to a height of 
370 feet, and, at some points, reveals thirteen dif- 
ferent strata. 

The shape assumed by, and the relative position 
of the strata, form the striking feature. At about 
twelve feet from the summit, the -rock is formed 
into ranges of pillars, or columns. These pillars 
are in a vertical position, each pillar being sixty 
feet high. This range of pillars rests on a bed of 
coarse rock, sixty feet thick. Beneath this rocky 
entablature, is a second range of pillars, each forty- 
five feet high, resting upon a coarse unshapen 
strata : — and thus to the surface of the sea. 

The "Amphitheatre/' is very striking. The 
headland assumes an exact semi-circular form. 
Around the upper part, runs a row of columns, 



88 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

each column being eighty feet high. Then follows 
a projection of rock. Beneath this rocky projection, 
is another row of pillars, each sixty feet high. 
Then comes another rocky projection, or bench for 
the giants, — and thus clown to the sea, forming 
a beautiful harbor. 

The '' Gicmfs Organ '^ is forty-five feet high, 
and composed of a number of pillars, long and 
short, arranged like the strings of a harp. On this 
instrument, the giants played for the amusement 
of their o;uests ! The clear metallic rinff of these 
rocks, tempts the ^' guide'' to propound his theory 
of the objects, and uses, of these strange formations. 
He walks up, strikes one of the ^' strings '' of this 
wonderful harp, and then inquires if we hear the 
music! We respond in the affirmative. Then he 
replies, what must have been the tender, and pa- 
thetic modulations, when the giant's fingers moved 
amono; those strings ! 

The headland is also remarkable for the color 
of the strata. The entire cliff appears as if painted. 
Here are various shades of green, vermilion rock, 
red ochre, intermingled with lichens, ferns and 
rock plants ; and the whole surface, from the 
shining waters to the grassy summit, is sprinkled 
with blooming sea daisies. 

The '^Causeway,'' is composed of a number of 
pillars, forming a pathway into the sea. There 



89 

are over forty thousand of these cohimns ! Tliey 
are regular in shape, and fit together as closely as 
if cut and adjusted by some skilful hand. Our 
guide points out columns having three, four, five, 
six, eight, and nine sides and angles. But strange 
to state, that of these forty thousand pillars, but 
one is triangular, and only threey are possessed of 
nine sides ! 

Here is a wishing-chair. The seat is an octa- 
gon, — a stone having eight sides ; three other stones, 
different in shape, form the back ; and the feet rest 
upon another, unlike either of the preceding. 

Now, how can we account for these strange and 
beautiful formations ? There are two theories, — 
the geological, and the mythical. Geologists tell us, 
that these pillars are composed of about one-half 
flinty earth, one-quarter iron, and one-quarter 
clay and lime. They are plutonic in their origin. 
They are formed by a fusion of the above elements 
into one mass, which in cooling, has cracked or 
crystallized, into the strange shapes already de- 
scribed. At what period in the world's history, 
this fusion and crystallization took place, we are 
not informed. 

The mythical theory, is somewhat amusing, 

Fin Mac Coul, was champion of Ireland. A 

Scottish giant offered to fight " Fin,^' for the 

'^belt," and the "championship." Fin, like a 
4* 



90 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

good Irishman, accepted the challenge. But how 
could these ''sporting gentlemen ^^ be brought 
together ? The surging sea separated them. Fin 
applied to the King, for permission to build a 
highway to Scotland. The King granted permis- 
sion ; the Causeway was built, and the Scotchman 
was beaten ! Here is a well, right by the sea. 
The waters are fresh, and sweet, as a mountain 
spring. An old Irish gentleman — a descendant, 
doubtless, of Mr. McCoul — sits by the well, and 
kindly invites the tourist to drink of the spark- 
ling waters. The charge is a sixpence, but the 
beverage is refreshino:. 

But here comes the mendicant merchants, with 
photographs, and "specimens'^ boxed up, and 
ready for shipment. And the rush, and the roar, 
to make the first sale ! " Irish Diamond ! '' shouts 
one ; '' Malachite ! " thunders another ; "Jasper!'' 
roars a long, mean-looking fellow ; while a tooth- 
less old woman presses to the front with a bundle 
of photographs, in one of which, her venerable 
self, is the most conspicuous object. 

There is no escape. Vie are completely sur- 
rounded. "The whole box for a shilling!" 
screams a little fellow, who has come down from 
the highest heading with the swiftness of an eagle. 
We apologize for appearing among them, and ex- 
citing this rivalry in the sale of needless articles; 



giant's causeway to derry. 91 

but no excuse will be accepted by these blatant, 
bullying beggars. And to escape from this mot- 
ley crowd, we make a few purchases, and rush on 
to Londonderry. 

This city has a population of 25,000, and is 
beautifully located on the banks of the river 
Foyle. The ground on w^hich the city is built, is 
sloping, and the summit of this sloping hill is 
crowned by the Protestant Cathedral. The city 
was fortified with walls, which still remain, en- 
circling the old town. The walls are one mile in 
length, and from fifteen to thirty feet wide. They 
furnish a fine parade and promenade ground, and 
afford a magnificent view of the surrounding 
country. The newly-built portion of the town, 
communicates with the " ancient city '' through 
seven gates, and over some of these archways, are 
stone effigies of historic characters. 

The religious history of the locality is quite in- 
teresting. An abbey was founded in London- 
derry, in the early part of the sixth century, by 
Columbkille. The present Cathedral, occupies 
the site of this ancient abbey. Columbkille, was 
born in the county Donegal, and was a most en- 
terprising and successful missionary. One hun- 
dred monasteries in Ireland, owed their orio^in to 
this Presbyterian Evangelist. These monasteries, 
were missionary colleges, established in connection 



92 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

with churches : and thus learning, and religion, 
walked hand in hand, in those far distant ages. 
The population of Derry is largely Protestant. 
The handsome structure of the " McGee College/' 
occupies a conspicuous position on the left bank of 
the river. This edifice cost ^100,000, and was the 
gift of a Dublin lady to the Presbyterian Church. 
The Roman Catholics have erected a "Cathedral," 
on a commanding site, overlooking the river. Our 
guide informs us, that these poor people have been 
collecting money for this purpose, during the past 
thirty-six years. Penny by penny, shilling by 
shilling, for thirty-six years ! 

Can we fail to admire such persistence, in the 
midst of such poverty? Is not this the secret of 
their success in church erection? Every member 
gives — it may be but a trifle — and gives con- 
tinually. What vast sums of money are con- 
tributed by the poor Irish servant girls in America, 
for the support of the Roman Catholic Church ! 
How noble edifices, and magnificent cathedrals, rise 
along our fashionable promenades, stone upon 
stone being laid, and pinnacle after pinnacle reared, 
by the contributions of these so-called menials ! 
How many of the Protestants who hire them, 
might learn a lesson of loyalty to their own church, 
from the example thus set before them ! How 
much there is of dead orthodoxy ! 



THE CITY OF LONDONDERRY. 93 

The siege of Derry, was a memorable event. In 
December, 1688, there was an uprising against the 
Protestants. The '^apprentice boys'' closed the 
gates against the invading army, and the town was 
besieged. The siege lasted 105 days, during which 
time, the citizens suffered most intensely. Tallow, 
hides, and the flesh of dogs, were eaten to sustain 
life. Twenty-three hundred of the inhabitants 
died of famine, or by violence. 

The besieged, were inspired by the Rev. George 
Walker, who prophesied coming deliverance, and 
gallantly defended the city. In 1828, a monument 
was erected to the memory of this patriot. It is a 
handsome Doric column, 120feet high, surmounted 
by a statue, and stands upon those immortal 
" walls." Here also, close to the monument, is 
'' Roaring Meg " — the cannon that '^ won the 
day." And here, stands six of the thirteen 
sycamore trees, planted by the thirteen apprentice 
boys, who dared to close the gates against Lord 
Antrim's men. Nor have the patriots all passed 
away. We are greeted by one, eighty years of age, 
a most venerable and intelligent old Irishman. 
He is thoroughly familiar with the history of the 
siege, the localities famed for conflicts, the old 
houses used as prisons, and everything pertaining 
to the past and the present of the city. He presses 
us to go around the walls "just once more/' and 



94 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

with descriptions of men and events, in chaste lan- 
guage and fervid eloquence, delights and charms 
us, until late in the afternoon. Begging to be ex- 
cused from further explorations, and assuring him 
of our high regard for his knowledge, patriotism, 
and eloquence, the old man, assuming an attitude 
erect, defiant, lifts his right hand, and pointing in 
the direction of a neighboring valley, repeats, with 
distinctness and emphasis, — 

" When Lord Antrim's men came down yon glen, 
With drums and trumpets gay, 
The apprentice boys, they heard the noise, 
And then prepared for play!" 

A bright shilling is placed in his hand, and lo, in 
a twinkling, he has disappeared ! 

Before bidding adieu to the Emerald Isle, a few 
facts may be stated respecting the cost of living, 
and of travelling, and the social habits of the people. 

The railroad rates are, for like accommodation, 
about the same as in America, — perhaps a trifle 
cheaper. The hotel charges are reasonable, but 
the statements of a hotel-keeper are liable to be 
misunderstood, or to deceive. He will inform you 
that lodging is, perhaps, two shillings. In the 
morning, on the bill, it appears to be nearly four 
shillings. Sundry items not previously named 
now appear, such as " attendance,^' *' blacking 



DERKY. MATCH-MAKING. WAKES. 95 

boots/^ etc. Then, in hiring a conveyauce, you 
agree to pay so much, and suppose that to be the 
sum total of the expense. But on returning, the 
driver claims, and insists upon receiving, an addi- 
tional sum, equal in some cases to one third of 
the original charges. 

In the hotels, the bar-tenders are generally wo- 
men. Women sit down with men, and drink, 
without any apparent loss of self-respect. Women 
walk together to the ^Havern,'' call for their whis- 
key, drink it, and pass along without being criti- 
cised. At fairs and markets, men and women 
march through the streets singing ballads, and 
selling the printed songs at a half-penny apiece. 
When a young couple discover that " life, without 
the other, would be a desert drear," ^ the parents 
come together for the purpose of '^ match-making. '^ 
So many cows, sheep, pigs, goats, are demanded as 
a dowry. If the demands are regarded as exces- 
sive, or the parents of the bride are unable to com- 
ply, then follows a discussion, in which the 
advantages of the '' union,'' and the pedigree of 
the family, are skilfully presented. 

These discussions are exceedingly interesting. 
The high contracting parties hold adjourned meet- 
ings; and many a spirited debate is held over the 
gift of an additional sheep, or the claim to an 
extra porker. 



96 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

When the dowry is settled, and the union con- 
summated, then comes what is euphoniously termed 
the " dragging home.^^ The bride and groom, 
mounted upon the same steed, and accompanied by 
a score or more couples on horseback, dash along 
the highways, — usually in the evening, — to their 
future home. 

The character of an Irish " wake," is pretty well 
understood. When the corpse is 'Maid out," 
candles are lighted, and pipes and tobacco placed 
either on the corpse, or close beside it. The whis- 
key bottle stands upon the table. As each friend 
of the departed arrives, the party stand around the 
deceased, and give expression to loud and bitter 
lamentations. Then, games, mystical and mirth- 
provoking, are indulged in by both sexes, old and 
young. Singing, and sighing, alternate in strange 
succession ; and story-telling hastens the dawn, 
when these laughing and sobbing mourners sud- 
denly disappear. These customs, it is true, pre- 
vail among the peasantry, and are limited to certain 
localities. 







CHAPTER V. 

SCOTLAND — THE LAND OF BURNS. 

Bidding farewell to Ireland, and embarking 
on the steamer ^^Rose/' we set sail fur Greenock, 
Scotland. The wind being favorable, our vessel 
sweeps along at a high rate of speed. The sail 
over Lough Foyle is quite enjoyable. On the left, 
rise the wild mountains of Donegal, and on the 
right, the bold '^ Headland" of the Giant's Cause- 
way is quite conspicuous. We are now jolted by 
the chopping sea of the IS^orth Channel. Rathlin 
Island is passed. The Mull of Cantire is rounded, 
and yonder is Ayr, and the land of Burns ! 

" 'Twas in that season, when a simple bard, 
Unknown and poor, simplicity's reward, 
Ae night, within the ancient burgh of Ayr, 
By whim inspired, or haply prest wi' care, 
He left his bed, and took his wayward route. 
And down by Simpson's wheel'd the left about ; 
The drowsy Dungeon-clock had number'd two, 
And Wallace tower had sworn the fact was true ; 
The tide-swollen Firth, with sullen, sounding roar. 
Through the still night dash'd hoarse along the shore." 

97 



98 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

Next comes Arran Isle, the property of the Duke 
of Hamilton. We enter the Firth of Clyde, and 
pass the Island of Bate. On our left is Mount 
Stuart, the home of the Marquis of Bute, and 
Dunoon Castle, owned by the Duke of Argyle. 

On our right, on gently sloping ground, is 
Greenock, where our feet first touch Scottish soil. 

This is a lively town of 60,000 inhabitants. 
The principal industries, are ship building, and 
suo^ar refinino^. 

There is a very fine promenade and carriage 
way along the river, and some very handsome 
residences on the esplanade. The houses are four 
and five stories high, and divided into " flats,'' for 
the accommodation of families. The cemetery is 
located above the town, and is the finest we have 
seen thus far in our travels. The lots, are neatly 
enclosed with closely cut boxwood, and silver 
holly. Where the lots are large, the yew tree fre- 
quently marks the resting-place of the dead. 

The view from this cemetery is magnificent. 
The mountains of Dumbartonshire, and Argyle- 
shire, are in full view; and the entrance to the 
Gare Loch, and the Long Loch, comes within range 
of the eye. 

There is one grave in Greenock, visited by every 
tourist. This is in the burying-ground of the old 
West Kirk, and is that of Burns' Highland Mary 



GREENOCK. HIGHLAND MARY's GRAVE. 99 

A winding path, leads to this much frequented spot. 
In 1842, a monument was erected, and on the 
upper part are chiseled medallion portraits of the 
lovers, — the right hands being clasped. On the 
lower part are engraved the following lines, from 
Burns^ poem — "To Mary in Heaven : '^ 

" Oh Mary ! dear departed shade ! 

Where is thy place of blissful rest? 
See'st thou thy lover lowly laid ? 

Hear'st thou the groans that rend his breast?" 

This Scottish maiden seems to have won the 
poet's heart, and her memory is perpetuated in 
several of Burns' most beautiful poems: 

*' Ye banks and braes, and streams around 

The Castle o' Montgomery, 
Green be your woods, and fair your flowers, 

Your waters never drumlie ! 
Here simmer first unfaulds her robes, 

And there they langest tarry : 
For there I took the last fareweel 

O' my sweet Highland Mary. 

But oh, fell death's untimely frost, 

That nipt my flower sae early ! 
Now green's the sod, and cauld's the clay, 

That wraps my Highland Mary ! 
And mouldering now in silent dust 

That heart that lo'ed me dearly ! 
But still within my bosom's core 

Shall live my Highland Mary! 



100 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

A slow and solemn procession, is marching along 
the hill-side, to the city of the dead. In that com- 
j)any of mourners^ not a female form can be seen. 
This surprises us, being in such marked contrast 
with Irish funerals, where women are always 
among the chief mourners. But a Scotch cousin 
informs us, that women never attend funerals. The 
male relatives, only, follow the dead to their last 
resting-place. 

This may be an improvement upon the Irish 
and American custom, or it may not. Fewer car- 
riages will be required, and a saving in expense 
effected. And this alone, is a decided improve- 
ment. Why should a poor laboring man be com- 
pelled to provide carriages, for all the women who 
are desirous of going on a burial excursion ? And 
why should not the men, whose duty it is to at- 
tend, provide carriages at their own expense ? 
How many poor men and women, are burdened, 
fur months and years, with debts incurred in the 
burial of a friend ! 

A reform in funeral customs, is certainly desirable 
in certain places. Funerals are too expensive. 
There are too many flowers : too many carriages ; 
too many tearless mourners: too much pomp and 
parade. In the burial of the dead, publicity is 
sought after, when secrecy should be observed. And 
then, these Sabbath processions to the grave ! How 



GREENOCK. FUNEEALS. EXCURSIONS. 101 

lacking in sympathy, how indifferent to the sor- 
rows of the bereaved, are those surging crowds that 
surround the home of the deceased, or struggle for 
admittance at the gates of the cemetery ? Surely, 
it must be a trying ordeal, for a sensitive mourner 
to be subjected to the rude gaze of a gaping and 
unfeeling multitude, while following the silent 
form of a loved one to its last resting-place. Some- 
times, Sabbath funerals may be a necessity. But 
the exclamation of a popular Philadelphia under- 
taker, who had for years witnessed the scenes just 
described, is worthy of being noted. ^^ O, I never 
want to be carried to the grave on a Sunday ! '^ 

It is customary in Greenock, and in the great 
manufacturing cities of Scotland, to quit work on 
Saturday at 12 o'clock. This enables the laboring 
men and their families, to make excursions to the 
fields, the mountains, or the lakes. It affords a 
rest, fresh air, and prepares the wearied laborer for 
the proper observance of the Sabbath. This being 
Saturday afternoon, silence reigns in the ship- 
yards, and the great manufacturing establishments 
are closed. Steamboats, crowded with happy ex- 
cursionists, are chasing each other over the Clyde, 
and up the Gare Loch, and the Long Loch. Fa- 
mily groups are scattered along the hillsides, 
plucking the wild flowers, and breathing the 
scented air. Truly, this is a pleasant way of pre- 



102 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

paring for the Sabbath. Might not a similar 
course be adopted by our great American estab- 
lishments, without injury to the employer, and 
with profit to the employed ? 

Paisley, is a prosperous town, on the route to 
Glasgow. The Abbey Church was founded in 1163, 
by Walter Stuart, ancestor of the royal family of 
Scotland. In a small chapel, at the south side, is 
the tomb of Marjory, daughter of Robert Bruce, 
and wife of Walter Stuart. In Paisley, Wilson, 
the American ornithologist, was born ; and Prof. 
Wilson (Christopher North) was a native of this city. 

Glasgow, situated on the Clyde, and by it di- 
vided into two unequal parts, is the commercial 
metropolis of Scotland. In wealth and popula- 
tion, it ranks as the third city in the United King- 
dom. Over 500,000 people dwell w^ithin the city 
limits. Glasgow is famous for its manufacturing 
establishments. Ship-building is a leading in- 
dustry. The Clyde, from Greenock to Glasgow 
— some twenty miles — is a continuous ship-yard. 
There are more steam and sailing craft sent from 
these yards, than from all the other British ports 
combined. There are numerous linen, woolen, 
and cotton factories. Iron ware, pottery, machine- 
ry, and chemicals, are manufactured on a large 
scale. The St. Rollox chemical works, are said to 
be the largest in the world. 



GLASGOW : MAKUFACTOEIES, MO^sUMENTS. 103 

The streets of Glasgow — most of them — are 
wide, stone-paved, quite clean, and lined with 
solid structures, four and six stories high. The 
building material is a light-colored, fine-grained, 
sandstone. In the recently erected edifices, there 
is very little sameness, no lack of variety in the 
style of architecture. It is difficult, at first sight, 
to determine what may be the character of a build- 
ing, — whether store, factory, bank, church, or 
fortification. Argyle Street is the principal street 
of Glasgow. It runs east and west, and is three 
miles long. The stores on Argyle, and Buchanan 
streets, are splendid edifices. 

George Square, a quadrangle of imposing struc- 
tures, is the finest in the city. It is ornamented 
with several costly monuments. 

Here are effigies in marble or bronze, of Queen 
Victoria, Prince Albert, Sir Walter Scott, Sir John 
Moore, and Lord Clyde. Scott's monument stands 
in the centre of the square, and is quite conspicu- 
ous. 

It consists of a high square pedestal, and a fluted 
Doric column eighty feet high, surmounted by 
a colossal standing statue. It was the first monu- 
ment erected to the Scottish Bard. 

The University of Glasgow crowns Gilmour 
Hill. The buildings form a rectangle 600 feet 
long, and 300 feet broad, and cost over two million 



104 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

dollars. The Botanic Garden, is not far distant 
from the University, and its beaatiful grounds, 
and choice collection of plants, make it a popular 
resort both for citizens and students. 

The Necropolis, or city of the dead, covers a 
steep, rugged eminence, 225 feet high, on the east 
side of Molindinar ravine. It is approached 
through an ornate portal, and along a handsome 
one-arclied bridge, called the ^' Bridge of Sighs. '^ 
Winding, flower-bordered paths, climb to the sum- 
mit, which is crowned by a lofty monument, erect- 
ed to the memory of Knox. 

The Cathedral, founded in 1133, is a Gothic 
edifice, 319 feet long, 63 feet wide, 90 feet high, 
and crowned with a spire 225 feet in height. The 
choir is 97 feet long, and has pews and other sit- 
tings in the old cathedral style. The lady chapel 
has exquisitely carved, early-pointed windows, and 
contains a monument to Archbishop Law. The 
crypt is 125 feet in length, and exhibits such va- 
rieties and combinations of structure, as to renderit, 
in the estimation of critics, the masterpiece of 
architecture in Scotland. The Cathedral has 80 
stained glass windows. A number of these were 
executed at the royal glass-painting establishment 
in Munich. The subjects represent Old and New 
Testament history, and are arranged in chronologi- 
cal order. It is said that the display of stained 



GLASGOW, covenanters' MONUMENT. 105 

glass in this Cathedral is greater, and more brilliant 
than in any other edifice in Great Britain. 

The Established Presbyterian Church holds 
service in the choir, at eleven and tAvo o'clock 
every Sabbath, The greater part of the adjoining 
yard, is paved with tombstones. On the north side 
of the Cathedral, is a simple monument to the 
memory of the niiie Covenanters, who suffered at 
the ^' Cross '' of Glasgow, " for their testimony to 
the Covenants." 

The inscription on this monument, reads as 
follows : 

" Years '6Q and '84 
Did their souls home into glore, 
Whose bodies here interred ly, 
Then sacrificed to tyranny. — 
To Covenants Reformation 
Cause they adhered in their station, 
These nine with others in this yard, 
Whose heads and bodies were not spar'd, 
Their testimonies foes to bury ; 
Caus'd beat the drums then in great fury ; — 
They'll know at resurrection day, 
To murder saints was no sweet play." 

Here is another specimen of the antique : 

" Heir ur Bureit Sr Waltir, 

Sr Thomas, Sr Jhohe, and Sr Mathiew. 
By Lineal descent to Utheris Barons 
and Knights of the Hoys of Minto 
w. t. thair wvffis, Bairnis, and Bretherein." 

5 



106 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

These monuments remind us that Glasgow, is a 
Presbyterian City. What numbers of Presbyte- 
rian Church edifices tower along the highw^ays ! 
There are one hundred and eighty of these struc- 
tures, within the limits of the city. And some of 
these churches are costly and magnificent. 

The Sabbath day, is carefully observed in this 
city. Services are usually held at eleven o'clock, 
A. M., and two o'clock, P. M. And never have 
we seen such crowds of people, old and young, 
marching to the house of God. Here they come, 
filling, not only the sidewalks, but the streets ! The 
entire city seems to be in commotion, at the hours 
named. Cleanly clad, Bible in hand, in hundreds 
and In thousands, they press up to the gates of 
Zion. How beautiful is the sight ! 

" From scenes like these old Scotia's grandeur springs, 
That makes her lov'd at home, rever'd abroad. " 

We worship in the morning with Dr. Bonar's 
congregation. The doctor is a thorough Scotch- 
man, and most excellent preacher. There was 
more scripture in that morning's sermon, than in 
any dozen sermons to which we have yet listened. 
It was a rare treat, to listen to his exposition of 
the word of God. 

The pews have narrow desks, on which are 
placed a Bible and psalm-book, for each indi- 



GLASGOW. PREACHERS. CHURCH SERVICES. 107 

vidual. While the Scriptures are being read, or the 
sermon preached, every worshipper has a Bible in 
hand ; and both reading, and reference, are closely 
scanned. The singing is not quite so good as the 
preaching. While the benediction is being pro- 
nounced, the people are seated, and remain for a few 
moments motionless, as if engaged in silent prayer. 
All notices of services are read after the benediction ; 
and in some churches the collection is taken up in 
the vestibule, after the congregation is dismissed. 
In the afternoon, we attend the Barony Free Church, 
of which Mr. Wells is pastor. The sermon is ex- 
cellent. The preacher uses no manuscript, shows 
a thorough familiarity with the Scriptures, is quite 
earnest, and, occasionally, truly eloquent. This 
church, bordering on the " Wynds,'^ is one of the 
most successful of the Glasgow missionary enter- 
prises, and is doing a noble work among the poorer 
classes of the vicinity. 

A thousand children attend its Sabbath- school. 
Some of these boys and girls are poorly clad, and 
many of them are noisy, quarrelsome, and well- 
nigh 'ungovernable. 

The hymns sung at the opening of the school 
are familiar: ^' Safe in the arms of Jesus,^' and 
'^ Lord, I hear of showers of blessings.'^ The old 
^' Tron " school, and the " Wynd " schools, are 
visited. Here are gathered the waifs, swept in 



108 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

from the ^^ Wyiids." And such a crowd of boys ! 
Along these streets, through these narrow and 
filthy lanes, and up these winding, stony stair- 
ways, did Chalmers w^alk, his great heart fired 
with the love of Jesus, and of perishing man. 
And nothing less potent, than the purest love for 
God, can sustain the Christian worker amid such 
surroundings. 

We have seen the darkest, foulest, spots in Phila- 
delphia and New York, but nothing to compare wdth 
these "' Wynds." Here, humanity is thoroughly 
imbruted. Men, whose bloated or shrivelled forms 
reveal the mastery of vice, stagger along, swearing 
as they go ; women, shoeless, sit in long lines on 
the curb-stone, muttering imprecations upon some 
hapless wretch ; their garments filthy, hair di- 
shevelled, features distorted, modesty, self-respect, 
shame, all gone ! God pity them ! 

And why this poverty, wretchedness, and de- 
gradation ? Why these staggering men, and de- 
moralized women ? Why these hago^ard looks, 
pallid faces, and blood-shot eyes? Why these 
ragged, unwashed and starving children ? And why 
these ceaseless strifes, and horrid oaths. And the 
answer comes from a thousand desolate homes, and 
ten thousand broken hearts — Rum ! 

To-day, amid these sickening sights, and dis- 
agreeable sounds, we find the Christian men and 



GLASGOW. THE WYNDS. THE FLATS. 109 

women of Glasgow, toiling nobly for the uplifting 
of these wretched mortals. Here they are in the 
mission Sabbath-schools, with Bible in hand, point- 
ing to God as the only help, and to Jesus Christ as 
the great delis'erer. Success to them in their noble 
work ! 

The houses in Glasgow are, like those of Green- 
ock, divided into ^^ flats. '^ These flats, consist of 
three or four rooms on the same floor. One of 
these rooms, is used as a kitchen, another, as a 
sitting-room and dining-room, and a third, as a 
sleeping-room. When the family is large, two flats 
are rented. And the rent is quite reasonable. A 
suit of rooms, — three or four, — in a good location, 
may be rented for seventy-five dollars a year. For 
every flat there is a bell, and the name of the oc- 
cupant, is painted upon the bell-pull at the front- 
door. By this arrangement, the proper party is 
reached, and no other tenant is disturbed. 

The street scenes are sometimes amusing. Here 
is a sturdy Highlander with his bag-pipe, out of 
which he is squeezing some lively Scottish airs. 
A young athlete, handsomely dressed in Highland 
costume, dances along the pavement, keeping time 
to the music. He leaps, bends, whirls, and 
gyrates up and down the street, with marvelous 
agility. Is this a Highland fling, or a Scotch horn- 
pipe ? It is certainly a success. Just see the 



110 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

crowds of men and women ! If one of Darwin's 
ancestors were on exhibition, the excitement could 
not be more intense. But this is better than a 
monkey-show, — financially, — for see the pence, 
how they fly from lofty windows, and jingle mer- 
rily upon the side-walk ! 

Then these "cannie Scots,'' will listen to a song. 
Singing in the streets, and selling the printed songs, 
is quite popular. Some of these songs, illustrate 
life on the ''flats/' — -just described. 

Women in Scotland, living in the same house, 
will have their '^little misunderstandings." And 
it sometimes happens, that '' outsiders" hear of it ; 
and occasionally, a local poet attempts to create 
harmony out of the discord. The following song 
by a Scottish bard, is an effort in this direction, 
which we trust will escape the notice of the ladies 
referred to: 

"Says Mistress Bell to Mistress Todd, 

' Ye'd better clean the stairs ! 
Ye've missed your turn for mony a week, 

The neighbours a' did theirs.' 
Says Mistress Todd to Mistress Bell, 

' Aw tell ye Mistress Bell, 
Ye'd better mind yer ain affairs, 

And clean the stairs yersel.' 

Says Mistress Todd, ' When it suits me 

To think that it's my turn ; 
Ye've a vast o' cheek ta order me. 

There's not a woman born 



GLASGOW. QUARREL ON THE STAIRS. Ill 

That keeps a cleaner house than me, 

And mark ye, Mistress Bell, 
If ye'd only do the same as me, 

Ye'd gang and clean yersel.' 

Says Mistress Bell, ' Ye clarty fash, 

Wha was't that stole the beef?' 
' What do ye say ? ' cries Mistress Todd, 
' Do ye mean that aw'm a thief?' 
Says Mistress Todd, ' Ye greet skyet-gob, 

Ye'd better baud yer jaw, 
The very clothes upon yer back 
Belangs the wife below ! ' 
Chorus : O, what tungs i' tl\2 row upon the stair^i, 
Glittering, clattering, scandal and clash 
r the row upon the stairs.'' 

But all Scottish women, are not modelled after 
the pattern of Mistress Bell, or Mistress Todd. 
There are a number of very useful, and inoffensive 
females, scattered through the country. But as is 
frequently the case in other lands, they are not al- 
ways fully appreciated. Their skill, thrift, and 
good house-wife qualities, lack recognition. 

They are willing to make others happy. They 
are craving for wider fields of usefulness. Their 
breathings after fellowship with some appreciative 
swain, are very tender, and cannot fail to awaken 
a loving response. One of these neglected ones, 
thus appeals : 

'' Noo I'm a braw lassie, wi' guid claes an' plenty, 
A wee pickle siller an' a', 



1J2 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

Baitli weel-faurt and sonsie, and rosey and dainty, 
Will nane o' ye tak' me awa' ? 

I can shape, I can shew, an' am real guid at spinnin', 

I'll keep ye aye cosy an' braw, 
I'll clean up yer hoose, I'll attend t' yer linen, 

An' darn yer stockins an' a'. 

I'll no fash my head wi' political matters, 
Like ladies that make me think shame ; 

But let them come to me wi' clavers and clatters, 
I'll tell them their place is at hame. 

I'm maistly gane oot o' my senses wi' anger, 

I may speak till the day that I dee, 
But I see that's needless t' stand any langer, 

There's naebody here wanting me." 

Chorus: "For it's noo high time I was married ye. see, 
I would like to be settled in life ; 
I think a bit laddie could hardly dae better 
Than tak' me, and mak' me his wife." 

The following song is sung, by the women, with 
great energy : 

'' I can wash, I can bake, I can brew, I can spin, 
And when I gang to kirk, oh ! don't I cut a shine, 
But there's naethin' in this worl' wad mak' me ha' sae 

cheery 
As if I had a young man jist tae ca' me dearie." 

This young woman has many admirable quali- 
ties, which young men should carefully consider. 
But how vain is the lassie! . She '^cuts a shine," 
in church ! What a singular weakness, for so ex- 
cellent a worker. 



GLASGOW. SHINING LASSIES. 113 

Now why should the fringes, and flounces, the 
flowers, and feathers, be carefully preserved for ex- 
hibition in the kirk ? Are not the wearers dis- 
tracted in thinking about them ; and are not the 
worshippers distracted in looking at them ? Are 
not other maidens, whose circumstances will not 
permit them to ^^shine,^^ tempted to remain at 
home, and not attend the kirk ? And will not the 
prudent " laddies/' avoid these " shining lassies,'^ 
fearing the future expense? ^^ Cutting a shine'' 
in church, is a naughty habit. 

From Glasgow to Edinburgh, over the moun- 
tains and the lakes, is 111 miles. We reach Loch 
Lomond. This is regarded as the finest of the 
Scottish lakes. It is 23 miles long, and in some 
places 5 miles broad. The depth is from 20, to 100, 
fathoms. Studded with sparkling islands, and 
surrounded by wild rugged mountains, its shining 
shores have witnessed many a bloody encounter 
between the warlike Highland clans. How often 
has the lofty ^^ Ben Lomond," looked down upon 
the struggles of contending chiefs ! 

Having secured a pleasant position, on a lively 
little steamer, we float away towards the north, 
among 

" Those emerald isles, Avhich calmly sleep 
On the blue bosom of the deep." 

5* 



114 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

Here is the beautiful isle of Inch Murrin, — the 
property of the Duke of Montrose. It is the 
largest of Loch Lomond's islands, and furnishes 
an ample play-ground for the swift-footed deer. 
Rounding the wooded promontory of Hoss, we 
reach Rowardennan. Ben Lomond towers above 
us 3,200 feet. The distance from the lake to the 
summit is four miles ; and the view from this 
mountain, is said to be one of the finest in Scot- 
land. The lake now becomes quite narrow, and 
the mountains on either side grow wild and ro- 
mantic. Yonder, on the bushy banks, at the base 
of the hill, is Rob Roy's Prison. How the very 
name, suggests Clannish strife, and deadly com- 
bat ! 

" Yes, slender aid from fancy's glass 
It needs, as round these shores we pass, 
'Mid glen and thicket dark, to scan 
The wild Mac Gregor's savage clan." 

At Inversnaid, passengers for Loch Katrine are 
landed. This is the scene of Wordsworth's ex- 
quisite poem, — '^To a Highland Girl." 

" Sweet Highland girl, a very shower 
Of beauty is thy earthly dower ! 
Twice seven consenting years have shed 
Their utmost beauty on thy head ; 
What hand but would a garland cull 
For thee, who art so beautiful ? 



SCOTLAND. LOCH LOMOND, HIGHLAND-GIRL. 115 

Oh, liapi^y pleasure here to dwell 
Beside thee in some heathy dell : 
Adopt your homely ways and dress, 
A shepherd, thou a shepherdess ! 
Nor am I loath, though pleased at heart, 
Sweet Highland girl ! from thee to part ; 
For I, methinks, till I grow old, 
As fair- before me shall behold, 
As I do now, the cabin small. 
The lake, the bay, the waterfall : 
And thee the spirit of them all ! " 

A four-horse chariot, carries us over the moor, 
from Inversnaid to the banks of Loch Katrine. 
The scenery is exceedingly wild. Floeks of sheep 
roam over the hills, and no sound greets the ear, 
except the bleating of some fleecy wanderer, — 

" Away on the mountain wild and bare, 
Away from the tender shepherd's care." 

We touch the shores of Loch Katrine at Stro- 
nachlachar. This beautiful sheet of water, and the 
mountains surrounding it, have been immortalized 
by Scott, in the " Lady of the Lake.'^ The uses 
to which it is put to-day, are much more practical 
than poetical. Its waters are conducted over the 
mountains, and through the glens, all the way to 
Glasgow. And in that populous centre, they 
quench the thirst, cook the food, and wash the 
faces of half a million of Scots. 



116 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

The scenery around the eastern shore is magni- 
ficent, and, in some features at least, corresponds 
with the description of the poet : 

'' The broom's tough roots his ladder made, 
The hazel saplings lent their aid ; 
And thus an airy point he won 
Where, gleaming with the setting sun, 
One burnished sheet of living gold, 
Loch Katrine lay beneath him rolled ; 
In all her length far winding lay, 
With promontory, creek, and bay, 
And islands that, empurpled bright. 
Floated amid the livelier light ; 

And mountains, that like giants stand. 

To sentinel enchanted land. 

High on the south, huge Ben-venue 

Down to the lake in masses threw 

Crags, knolls, and mounds, confusedly hurled 

The fragments of an earlier world ; 

A wildering forest feathered o'er 

His ruined sides and summit hoar. 

While on the north, through middle air, 

Ben-an heaved high his forehead bare." 

This summer's day on the lake, will long be 
remembered. The sky is bright ; the wind blows 
gently over the silvery waters ; the islands charm 
by their beauty ; and the mountains loom up so 
grand ! 

" The summer dawn's reflected hue 
To purple changed Loch Katrine blue ; 



LOCH KATRINE. LADY OF THE LAKE. 117 

Mildly and soft the wsstern breeze 

Just kissed the lake, just stirred the trees. 

The grey mist left the mountain side, 

The torrent showed its glistening pride ; 

Invisible in flecked sky. 

The lark sent down her revelry ; 

The blackbird and the speckled thrush 

Good-morrow gave from brake and bush." 

This little island on our left,, is historic^ — at 
least in poetry. But there are no skiffs to-day, 
skimming the shining waters ; and no beauteous 
form, guiding the tiny craft. We are not quite so 
fortunate as the huntsman, who, after the sound 
of his magic horn, looked wonderingly as, — 

'' From underneath an aged oak, 
That slanted from the islet rock, 
A Damsel, guider of its way, 
A little skiff shot to the bay. 
That round the promontory steep 
Led its deep line in graceful sweep, 
Eddying, in almost viewless wave, 
The weeping willow twig to lave, 
And kiss, with whispering sound and slow, 
The beach of pebbles bright as snow. 
The boat had touch'd the silver strand, 
Just as the hunter left his stand. 
And stood concealed amid the brake, 
To view this Lady of the Lake. 
And ne'er did Grecian chisel trace 
A Nymph, a Naiad, or a Grace, 
Of finer form, or lovelier face ! 



118 



WANDEEIKGS IN EUEOPE. 



What though no rule of courtly grace 
To measured mood had trained her pace — 
A foot more light, a step more true, 
Ne'er from the heath-flower dashed the dew 
What though upon her speech there hung 
The accents of the mountain tongue — 
Those silver sounds, so soft, so dear, 
The listener held his breath to hear." 




CHAPTER yi. 

LOCH KATRINE TO ABBOTSFORD. 

A FOUR-HOESE stage is in waiting, and we ride 
through the wild Trossachs, to Callandar. This is 
the scene of the chase. It was here 



" The wild quarry shunned the shock, 
And turned him from the the opposing rock ! 
Then, dashing down a darksome glen, 
Soon lost to hound or hunter's ken, 
In the deep Trossach's wildest nook, 
His solitary refuge took." 

And in this rocky, woody wiklerness, the Knight 
of Snowdoun, — James Fitz- James, — '^ lost his gal- 
lant gray.'^ 

"See/' says the driver, "it was just at this 
point '^ 

" Close on the hounds the hunter came. 

To cheer them on the vanished game ; 

But, stumbling in the rugged dell. 

The gallant horse exhausted fell. 

The impatient rider strove in vain 

To rouse him with the spur and rein, 

119 



120 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

For the good steed, his labors o'er, 
Stretched his stiff limbs to rise no more." 

Here is Loch Achray, where in quietness and 
beauty, 

" The rocks — the bosky thickets sleep, 
So stilly in thy bosom deep." 

A short distance from the Loch, we pass the 
Highland huts of Duncraggan, and the entrance 
to the deer-forest of Glenfinlas. Along these hill- 
sides, and through these valleys, the bold and 
brave Roderick-Dhu, walked at the head of the 
Clan-Alpine. Here he whistled and the warriors, 
quick-footed, hastened to their chief. 

" He whistled shrill. 
And he was answered from the hill ; 
Wild was the scream of the curlew, 
From crag to crag the signal flew- 
Instant, through copse and heath, arose 
Bonnets, and spears, and bended bows : 
On right, on left, above, below, 
Sprang up at once the lurking foe ; 
From shingles grey their lances start, 
The bracken-bush sends forth the dart, 
The rushes and the willow-wand 
Are bristling into axe and brand, 
And every tuft of broom gives life 
To plaided warriors armed for strife. 
That whistle garrisoned the glen 
At once with full five hundred men. 



THE TEOSSACHS. RODERICK DHU. 121 

Passing Loch Yenachar, we look dov/n upon 
Coilantogle Ford, where Roderick challenged Fitz- 
James^ to single combat. 

" See here, all vantageless I stand, 
Armed like thyself with single brand ; 
For this is Coilantogle Ford, 
And thou must keep thee with thy sword." 

Both were brave warriors. The struggle was 
severe. Blood flowed freely. Gael and Saxon, 
never fought before, or since, more gallantly, — if 
the testimony of Sir Walter is to be credited. 

" Like adder darting from his coil, 
Like wolf that dashes througli the toil, 
Like mountain-cat who guards her young. 
Full at Fitz- James's throat he sprung, 
Keceived, but reck'd not of a wound, 

. And locked his arms his foeman round. 
They tug, they strain ! — down, down they go. 
The Gael above, Fitz-James below ! 
The chieftain's gripe his throat compressed. 
His knee was planted in his breast ; 
His clotted locks he backward threw, 
Across his brow his hand he drew. 
From blood and mist to clear his sight, 
Then gleam'd aloft his dagger bright !" 

From Callandar to Stirling, Ave go by rail. 
The scenery along the Teith, and at Doune, and 
Dunblane, is both picturesque and beautiful. 



122 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

Stirling is famous for its castle, its church, and 
the bloody battle fought in the immediate vicinity. 
A narrow and winding street, leads to the Francis- 
can Church, erected by James IV. in 1494. In 
the choir, James VI. was crowned, on which occa- 
sion John Knox preached the coronation sermon. 
Ebenezer Erskine, the founder of the ^' Secession 
Church of Scotland/' was one of its ministers. 
Here we find a copy of the ^^ breeches'' bible, of 
1585. Genesis iii. 7 reads : " And they sewed fig 
leaves together, and made themselves breeches." 
Some historic mansions are pointed out, by a 
Scottish guide, 84 years of age. Argyle Lodge, 
where Prince Charles was entertained by the Mar- 
quis, is the most conspicuous. Passing through a 
narrow entrance, we reach the Palace and Castle ; 
sit in the black oak chair used by James I. and 
VL, and rest our note-book on the black oak 
table, the first used by Knox, at the communion 
service. 

The Castle is built upon a green trap rock, 3 10 
feet above the level of the plain. And the view 
from these lofty battlements, is beautiful and 
grand. Beneath us are the green fields, where the 
tournament was held ; and from this spot, — ^' The 
Ladies' Look-out,'' — proud matrons looked down 
upon the friendly contests of rival Scottish chiefs. 
Here, Queen Mary stood, 300 years ago, when 



STIRLINQ CASTLE. 

"The castle gates were open flung, 
The quivering draw-bridge rocked and rung, 
And echoed loud the flinty street 
Beneath the coursers' clattering feet, 
As slowly down the deep descent 
Fair Scotland's King and nobles went. 
Now in the Castle-park, drew out 
Their chequered bands, the joyous rout, 
There morricers, with bell at heel. 
And blade in hand, their mazes wheel. 
Their bugles challenge all that will, 
In archery to prove their skill. 
Now clear the ring ! for, hand to hand, 
The manly wrestlers take their stand. 
The vale with loud applauses rang, 
The Ladies' Eock sent back the clang." 



Yonder, crowning a cliff nearly 600 feet higl], 
stands Wallace's monument. The tower is 220 
feet high, and surmounted by an open crown. 
This site w^as well chosen, being in the vicinity of 
Stirling Bridge, the scene of Wallace's first victory 
over the English, in 1297. The river Forth, 
fringed with poplar, ash, and willow, and 
winding through green meadows, and fields of 
ripening grain, forms thirteen beautiful curves, as 
it rolls past Stirling Castle! Then, the Vale of 
Menteith on the west, the Campsie on the south, 
the Ochil Hills on the north, and Bannockburn — 
memorable as the scene of a bloody battle fought 
in 1314, by Edward II. of England and Robert 



124 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

the Bruce of Scotland — all may be seen from 
these Castle walls. 

The cemetery, adjoining the Castle, has some 
monuments worthy of notice. Here is a prize 
monument by Ritchie, erected to the memory of 
^^ Margaret Wilson, virgin martyr of the wave." 
'^ She was bound to a stake, within flood mark of 
the Solway tide, and died a martyr's death, on 
May 11th, 1685." The inscription on the monu- 
ment, to this true blue Presbyterian maiden, reads 
thus :— 

"Love many waters cannot quench, 
God saves His chaste impearled ones in covenant true. 
O Scotia's Daughters, earnest scan the page, 
And prize this fiower of Grace, blood bought for you." 

" Psalm ix. 9." 

Here is a pyramidal monument, to the heroic 
" Covenanters." On the sides, the " Crown of 
Life," the '' Star of Light," and the open 
Bible, are beautifully chiseled. How the blood 
warms, while we walk through this city of the 
dead, and gaze upon the graves of our ancestors ! 
How fearless of danger; how ready to die in 
defence of truth, were those heroes of the '^ Cove- 
nant"! 

A quaint inscription this, upon the tombstone 
of A. Meffin, Chief Constable of Stirlingshire: — 



BANNOCK-BURN. MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS. 125 

" Our life is but a winter day, 
Some only breakfast and away, 
Others to dinner stay, and are well fed, 
The oldest man but sups and goes to bed, 
Large is his debt, that lingers out the day, 
He that goes soonest, has the least to pay." 

From Stirling we proceed to Liolithgow, by 
way of Bannockburn, and visit the palace famous 
as the residence of the Stuart kings, and the birth- 
place of the beautiful Queen of Scots. 

The'ruins of the palace, stand upon the margin 
of a crescent shaped lake, and command a charming 
view of the surrounding country. We w^ander 
through the deserted halls, now the home of the 
w^ild birds ; and are startled, as out from the ivy- 
clad, crumbling w^alls, sw^eeps the black-winged, 
screaming hawk, or flies the afiTrighted swallow. 

Here is the dining-hall, 98 feet long, 33 broad, 
and 38 high. And this is the room that wit- 
nessed the birth of Queen Mary, in 1542; and 
yonder the apartment sacred to the confessional. 

It w-as from this room, in which w^e now stand, 
that James escaped — by an opening in the floor — 
when the nobles came to assassinate him. Some of 
the tender-hearted ladies covered the subterranean 
passage with a spinning wheel, and thus aided their 
royal master in his untimely flight. Every apart- 
ment, in this once royal palace, has a history. 



126 V\^ANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

And could these crumbling walls speak, what a 
tale would they unfold ! 

From Linlithgow to Edinburgh: the route lies 
through well-cultivated farms. Sturdy w^omen 
toil in the fields^ hoeing the potatoes. The houses 
are built of stone, and the roofs are slated, or tiled. 
These red-roofed houses, shine quite conspicuously 
through the green trees, by which they are shaded 
and surrounded. 

Edinburgh is, unquestionably, a beautiful city. 
It is built upon a number of hills; and the relative 
position of the structures, and the varyiiAg style of 
architecture, present a scene exceedingly pictur- 
esque. The city is divided into two parts, the old 
and the new. The old is separated from the new, 
by a wide valley, beautified with flower gardens, 
and spanned by two bridges. A mound, also, 800 
feet long, 300 feet wide, and nearly 100 feet high, 
serves the purpose of a bridge, in uniting the old 
town and the new. In the '^ new ^' section, the 
streets are wide, and the edifices, many of them, 
costly and magnificent. In the aristocratic quar- 
ter, there are a number of handsome terraces, 
crescents, and squares, ornamented by stately trees, 
and sparkling lawns. Over the valley, in the 
*^ old " town, the houses, unlike in structure, and 
unequal in height, stand along the sloping hill- 
sides, or crown the summits, in the most charming 



EDINBURGH SCOTCHMAN'S DESCRIPTION. 127 

irregularity. Some of these edifices, climb to a 
height of eight or ten stories ! Here, indeed, we 
behold '^ castles in the air.^' 

The scene after dark, is exceedingly brilliant. 
The inequalities of the surface, render visible the 
thousands of flickering lights, that in wavy lines 
span the valleys, climb the acclivities, and encircle 
the summits. 

But a stranger is unequal to the task, of giving 
a graphic description of this modern Athens. We 
will therefore call upon a local writer, to describe 
one or two interesting localities. To the clear 
head of a Scotchman, he adds a thorough knowledge 
of geology, and a loving appreciation of the beau- 
ful and picturesque. " Arthur^s Seat culminates 
in a point, lifts a truncated, conical summit to an 
altitude of 822 feet, southeast ; descends rollingly 
to the east and northeast, projects an abrupt shoul- 
der to the south ; breaks down precipitously to the 
west ; presents to the south and west an undulating 
outline, similar to that of the sculptured figure of a 
lion Gouchant, and contains indications of successive 
outbursts of igneous rock.'^ In the following 
language, he describes the beauty of Salisbury 
Crag. 

" Salisbury Crag ascends in regular gradient, 
over 700 yards ; makes a semicircular sweep of 
three quarters of a mile, with convexity to the 



128 WANDEEINGS IN EUROPE. 

west ; breaks perpendicularly down round the face 
of that sweep, in naked, rugged, greenstone crag, 
60 feet ; is girt round the foot of its entire sweep 
of crag by a broad path ; then descends in a talus 
partly detrited, but mostly verdant, — and all so 
smooth, so rapid, so regularly declivitous as to be 
transversable only by an adventurous and sure- 
footed pedestrian." 

That this is an excellent place to study geology, 
may readily be inferred, when we are informed 
^' that the locality must have acquired its contour 
from a stupendous series of shocks, upheavals, and 
surging denudations : that it contains remarkable 
masses of igneous and stratified rocks, in varieties, 
compositions, dips, and mutual relations illustrative 
of many of the most striking changes which have 
occurred in the crust of the earth ; it gives charm- 
ing lessons, in much of the departments of volcanic 
action, oversurging sea, fossiliferous deposit, and 
mineral distribution ; and presents in the logical 
inferences of a geologist, and in the enlightened 
imagination of any ordinary intelligent thinker, a 
long diversified bygone blaze of wonders.'^ 

Now, to our mind, the character of the place, 
accounts for the genius of the people. Up to this 
very moment, we have found it difficult to under- 
stand, why the inhabitants of Edinburgh, were, 
mentally and morally, so superior to their neigh- 



EDINBURGH. MONUMENTS. MUSEUMS. 129 

bors. But this writer has shed a ^' blaze " of lio;ht 
upon the subject. How could men, born upon 
these marvelous crags, and encircled by, and 
breathing such an atmosphere, fail to be pure in 
thought, and clear in conception ? 

There are a number of splendid monuments, 
erected in different parts of the city. Nelson's 
crowns Calton Hill ; and close beside it, stand 
monuments to the memory of Dugald Stewart, the 
mental philosopher, and Professor Playfair, the 
mathematician. On Prince's Street — the "Broad- 
way" of Edinburgh — Scott's monument is quite 
conspicuous. The Poet w^as born in Edinburgh, 
August, 1771, and died at Abbottsford, Septem- 
ber, 1832. This monument was erected in 1844; 
is two hundred feet high ; and cost seventy-five 
thousand dollars. A bronze statue of Professor 
Wilson — Christopher Korth — adorns one of the 
beautiful West Prince's Street gardens. 

On Prince's Street, stands the Antiquarian 
Museum, an institution well worth visiting. Here, 
we find stone implements used by the Celts and 
Picts ; swords, daggers and axe-heads in bronze ; 
curiously sculptured urns ; and many beautiful 
ornaments in silver and gold. 

And here is a silver tea-spoon, used by Prince 
Charles Edward, at Holy rood Palace ; the sea- 
chest, and drinking cup, belonging to Alexander 
6 



130 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

Selkirk, when he sojourned on the Island of Juan 
Fernandez ; and a brass collar, on which the fol- 
lowing words are engraved: — ^'Alex^ Steuart 
found guilty of death for theft at Perth the 5th 
of December 1701 and gifted by the Justiciars as 
a perpetual servant to Sir Jo. Araskin of Alva." 
If all thieves of the present day were thus neck- 
laced, and compelled to work without wages, how 
quickly the price of brass w^ould rise, and that of 
labor fall ! And this is John Knox's pulpit from 
St. Giles. And there is the '^ Maiden," or Scotch 
guillotine, used in the beheading of the Earl of 
Argyle, and still stained w^ith blood ! Here are 
the thumbikins, and other instruments of torture 
used against the Covenanters. And yonder, is 
Jennie Geddes' stool, — the very one — which that 
sinewy and orthodox lady hurled at the Dean of 
St. Giles, on the 23rd of July 1637. This gentle- 
man had just commenced reading the service, when 
Jennie hurled the stool at his head, accompanied 
with the indignant outburst, "Villain ! dost thou 
say mass at my lug ?" 

Above us, is one of the blue banners of the 
" Covenant." This was borne by the Covenanters, 
at the battle of Bothwell Bridge. And here too, 
is the '^ Solemn League and Covenant," signed 
by Archbishop Leighton. There are several 
" Leao-ues : " and the sig^natures to some of these 



COVENANTS. HOLYROOD. QUEEN MARY. 131 

" solemn " documents, are written in blood ! And 
many of those were penned by Christian women, 
who were willing to die for the "faith, once de- 
livered unto the Saints/' 

We will now walk through Canon Gate and 
High Street, from Holyrood Abbey to the 
Castle. This palace was once the seat of Scottish 
royalty ; and in the Chapel Royal — a fragment 
of the ancient Abbey— are buried, many of the 
kings and queens of Scotland. The rooms oc- 
cupied by Queen Mary, are the chief attraction, to 
all tourists. Our guide points out the dressing- 
rooms, the private supping-room, the audience- 
room, and the sleeping-room. Here stands, with 
fragments of the blankets, Queen Mary's bed. 
The decayed hangings, are of crimson damask, 
with green silk fringes, and tassels. The Queen's 
work-box, and the needlework — worked by her 
own fair hands, and representing Jacob's Dream 
are upon the table, — just as she left them ! 

The Picture Room is 150 feet long, 27 feet wide, 
and 20 feet high. It was used by Prince Charles 
as a banquetting hall, and is now used for the 
election of Scottish Peers, and for the annual levees, 
of the Commissioners to the General Assembly of 
the Church of Scotland. 

Queen Victoria, and the royal family, occupy 
the royal private apartments in Holyrood Palace, 
during their visits to Edinburgh. 



132 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

On our right as we march up the Hill, is the 
Canongate Church. Here, Adam Smith, author 
of '' The Wealth of Nations/' Dugald Stewart, 
and Ferguson the poet, are buried. 

And this is John Knox's house. In this quaint, 
many-cornered old building, the fearless reformer 
resided, from 1560, until his death in 1572. The 
house consists of three rooms, — sitting-room, bed- 
room, and study. It is by no means attractive, 
internally or externally ; and yet, how many pil- 
grims coming from afar, wend their way to old 
High Street, to gaze upon the edifice, once ten- 
anted by this heroic man ! 

A little further along is the old Parliament 
House, now occupied by the Supreme Court. It 
was erected between 1632, and 1640. The great 
hall is 122 feet long, 49 feet wide, and has a lofty 
roof of carved oak. The walls are decorated with 
portraits of Lords Brougham, Cockburn, Mans- 
field, and other distinguished lawyers. Here, the 
attorneys and counsellors promenade, when off 
duty ; and here they consult with clients, and ban- 
ter each other upon the losing or winning of suits. 

In the adjoining rooms, are seated the clear- 
headed ^'Lords'' of Justice, clothed in purple and 
scarlet, and crowned with curiously woven wigs ; 
while in their august presence, the dark-robed 
lawyers dissect, analyze, unravel, and make lumi- 



-^«*.ffi! 'An 




St. Giles, Edinburgh. 



SCOTCH LAWYERS. ST. GILES. 133 

nous, that which would puzzle even a Philadelphia 
brother — in the law. We highly enjoy an hour in 
the court rooms, listening to the keen logic, and 
fluent speech, of these Edinburgh advocates. 

And here is old St. Giles, — the church of the 
Patron Saint, and memorable as the place, where 
October 13th, 1643, the Solemn League was 
signed. 

It is 206 feet in length, and from 76 to 130 feet 
in breadth. In the days when Eome was in 
power, it had forty altars, and v^ns served by 
seventy priests. The building is now divided 
into three parochial places of worship. Here, 
Queen Mary worshipped, and John Knox 
preached; here, Jennie Geddes hurled the stool 
at the Dean's head, and the Solemn League and 
Covenant was sworn to ; and here also, the Cove- 
nanters were imprisoned! The old female guide 
has all the historic facts at her finger's end. She 
is enthusiastic, eloquent; and many of her state- 
ments are quite interesting. Pointing to a certain 
corner of the building, she informs us that " In 
yonder corner the queen did sit ; above, at the 
joining of the arches is a wreath beautifully 
carved, having four M's. These four M's repre- 
sent her four maids of honor, viz. : Mary Beaton, 
Mary Seaton, Mary Fleming, and Mary Kir 
Mackle." 



134 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

Climbing the Hill, we reach the famous old 
Castle. It is built upon a precipitous rock, 383 
feet above the level of the sea. The Castle covers 
an area of 9J acres, and the outlook, from the 
battlements, is magnificent. 

Of the numerous apartments, the " Crown " 
room is the most interesting. Here, the crown 
jewels are carefully guarded. The "Regalia," 
consist of a golden crown, — sparkling with gems, 
and surmounted by a cross ; a Sceptre, — a slender 
silver rod, thirty-nine inches in length, and beauti- 
fully ornamented ; and the Sword of state,— some 
five feet long, — the gift of Pope Julius II. to 
James IV. 

The history of these symbols of sovereignty, 
during the centuries of internal and external strife, 
preceding the Union with England, is exceedingly 
romantic. And it is stipulated in the Treaty of 
Union, that they "shall remain in all coming 
time" in Scotland. 

The University of Edinburgh is visited, by in- 
vitation of Professor Calderwood, — successor of 
Sir Wm. Hamilton in the chair of Metaphysics. 
The University dates from 1582. The buildings 
form a hollow parallelogram, extending 255 feet 
from north to south, and 358 feet from east to 
west. The library hall is 198 long, and 50 
feet wide, and is ornamented with busts of Sir 



UNIVERSITY, covenanters' MONUMENTS. 135 

Wm. Hamilton, Dugald Stewart, Professor Play- 
fair, and other distinguished scholars. It has 
upon its shelves, 250,000 volumes, arranged in 
the most convenient, and admirable manner. In 
the class rooms, the benches and the black-boards 
are not a whit more intelligent-looking, than those 
used in the most unhistoric, and unpretending, of 
American Colleges ! 

A short distance from the University buildings, 
we find the old Greyfriars Chureh, surrounded by 
an ancient Church-yard. In this cemetery, some 
notable Scotsmen are buried. Here are the tombs 
of George Buchanan, Principal Robertson, Dr. 
Hugh Blair, Dr. McCrie, Colin Maclaurin, and 
Ramsay, the poet. A monument of Peter Head 
granite, marks the poet's resting-place ; and the 
following lines form the epitaph : — 

"Tho' here you're buried worthy Allan 
We'll ne'er forget you canly callan, 
For while your soul lives in the sky, 
Your Gentle Shepherd ne'er can die." 

But by far the most interesting monument, is that 
erected to the memory of the Covenanters. The 
inscription, both in prose and poetry, is quite in- 
structive, and we copy it. 

" From May 27, '61 that the most noble Mar- 
quis of Argyle was beheaded, to 17 February '88, 
that Mr James Renwick suffered, were one wav 



136 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

and another murdered, and destroyed, for the same 
cause about 18,000 ; of whom at Edinburgh were 
executed about 100 noblemen, gentlemen, minis- 
ters, and others, noble martyrs for Jesus Christ. 
The most of them lie here.'^ 

"Halt, passenger, take heed what you do see, 
This tomb doth shew for what some men would die, 
Here lies the dust of those who stood, 
'Gainst perjury resisting unto blood ; 
Adhering to the Covenants and the laws 
Establishing the same ; which was the cause 
Their lives were sacrific'd unto the lust 
Of Prelatists abjured. Though here their dust 
Lies mixed with murderers, and other crew 
Whom justice justly did to death pursue ; 
But as for them, no cause was to be found 
Worthy of death ; but only they were found 
Constant and steadfast, zealous witnessing 
For the Prerogatives of Christ their King. 
Which truths were sealed with famous Guthrie's head, 
And all along to Mr. Renwick's blood, 
They did endure the wrath of enemies, 
Reproaches, torments, deaths and injuries. 
But yet they're those from whom such troubles came, 
And now triumph in glory with the Lamb." 

In this city, we find the finest specimens of the 
Scotchman. At every turn, on the street, in 
bank, and store, you meet with the genuine Scot, — 
pure and unalloyed. In looks, dialect, and dress, 
the Edinburgh Scotchman exhibits all the na- 
tional peculiarities. How clearly, shrewdness, fore- 



EDINBURGH. THE TYPICAL SCOT. 137 

thought, and philosophic reflectiveness, are mirrored 
in that somewhat rugged countenance ! Even the 
Scotch beggar, is a peculiar individual — His strat- 
egy is masterly ; and if he fails to capture a six- 
pence or a shilling, he does not lose his equanimity, 
but rather reflects upon the best method of im- 
jjroving his tactics. 

The city has a population of 200,000, is beauti- 
ful for situation ; and the people are distinguished 
for intelligence, refinement, and culture. 

Standing upon one of those picturesque eleva- 
tions, for which the city is so famous, and looking 
down upon this Scottish Metropolis, what memo- 
ries of men, and events, crowd upon the mind ! 
Here, Knox, Chalmers, and Guthrie, preached ; 
and Hamilton, Stewart, and Playfair taught; here 
Jeffrey, and Wilson, wrote ; and Scott, and Ram- 
say, sang. And here, the solemn Covenant was 
signed ; and in these graveyards, the Covenanters 
sleep ! Is it surprising, that the Scotch should 
love this city on the hills? Is it to be wondered 
at, that Scott should write of it, — 

''The wandering eye could o'er it go, 
And mark the distant city glow ; 

With gloomy splendor red ; 
For on the smoke- wreaths huge and slow, 
That round her sable turrets flow. 

The morning beams were shed 5 
And tinged them with a lustre proud, 
6* 



138 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

Like that which streaks a thunder cloud, 
Such dusky grandeur clothed the height, 
Where the huge castle holds its state. 

And all the steep slope down, 
"Whose ridgy back heaves to the sky 
Piled deep and massy, close and high 

Mine own romantic town !" 

Bidding farewell to Edinburgh, we take the 
train for Melrose Abbey. The distance is 37 
miles. This famous Abbey, was founded by David 
I. early in the twelfth century, and was rebuilt 
during the reign of Robert the Bruce. In the 
choir, on the site of the high altar, the heart of 
King Robert, the Bruce, is interred. 

The doorways and arches are richly ornamented. 

" The keystone that locks each ribbed aisle 
Is a fleur-de-lis or a quatrefeuille ; 
The corbels are carved grotesque and grim. 
And the pillars with cluster'd shafts so trim, 
With base and with capital flourish' d around, 
Seem bundles of lances which garlands have bound." 

There are several beautiful windows. The 
tracery in stone, is the finest we have yet seen ; 
and, excels that of any other Scottish ruin, except 
that of Roslin Chapel. 

'' Thou would'st have thought some fairy's hand 
'Twixt poplars straight the osier wand 

In many a freaking knot had twined ; 
Then framed a spell when the work was done. 
And changed the willow wreaths to stone." 

We would love to linger here till moonlight, if 



MELEOSE ABBEY. ABBOTTSFORD. 139 

other scenes did not extend a pressing invitation 
to visit them. Sir Walter Scott informs us, in 
the ^' Lay of the Last Minstrel/' that the moon- 
light scene is the loveliest. 

*' If thou would'st view fair Melrose aright, 
Go visit it by the pale moonlight ; 
For the gay beams of lightsome day 
Gild, but to flout, the ruins gray. 
When the broken arches are black in night, 
And each shafted oriel glimmers white ; 
When the cold light's uncertain shower 
Streams on the ruined central tower ; 
When buttress and buttress alternately, 
Seem framed of ebon and ivory; 
Then go — but go alone the while — 
Then view St. David's ruined pile ; 
And, home returning, soothly swear. 
Was never scene so sad and fair ! " 

Three miles westward — from Melrose — is Ab- 
bottsford, — the home of Sir Walter Scott. We 
hire a carriage, and have a pleasant drive over a 
good road, through a charming country, to this 
beautiful mansion on the banks of the Tweed. 
The entrance is by a porchway, adorned with pe- 
trified stags' horns. The hall is pannelled with 
finely carved oak ; the floor paved with black and 
white marble ; and the walls covered with ancient 
armor. 

The library contains 20,000 volumes, — each 
volume being selected by Sir Walter. The arm- 



140 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

chair he occupied during his literary labors, and 
the large table, stand in the centre of the room, 
and from their size and position, immediately at- 
tract the visitor's attention. 

The furniture in the various apartments, is of 
the finest material, and most curious workmanship. 
The numerous gifts bestowed by admiring friends, 
constitute quite a little museum. Some of these 
articles are of great historic, and intrinsic value. 
Here is a little box, once the property of Mary 
Queen of Scots ; and a curiously shaped candle- 
stick, belonging to The Bruce. Here is the sword 
of Montrose, Rob Eoy's gun, and a brandy flask, 
once carried by James VI. 

The walls of the various apartments, are de- 
corated with numerous pictures. Among these, 
one is particularly conspicuous, — representing the 
head of Queen Mary, in a charger, the day after 
her execution. Here is a picture of Claver house, 
— the terror of the Covenanters ; and yonder hangs 
a portrait of Scotf s grandfather, — a long-bearded 
and venerable-looking patriarch. 

But the Bard of the North is silent ! The harp 
that thrilled the Scottish heart, is heard no more 
on the banks of the Tweed ! 

" Harp of the North ! that mouldering long hast hung 
On the witch-elm that shades Saint Fillan's spring, 
And down the fitful breeze thy numbers flung, 



DRYBURG ABBEY. SCOTT's TOMB. 141 

Till envious ivy did around thee cling, 
Muffling with verdant ringlet every string — 
Oh minstrel Harp ! still must thine accents sleep ? 

Mid rustling leaves and fountains murmuring ; 
Still must thy sweeter sounds their silence keep, 
Nor bid a warrior smile, nor teach a maid to weep?" 

Sir Walter seized this harp, and those trembling 
strings, responsive to his magic touch, swayed 
Scottish hearts, and made them '' higher throb.'^ 

But to the harp, and to the Tweed, he bade a 
long, and sad, farewell. And on the 21st Septem- 
ber, 1832, he might have addressed both, in the 
tender language of an old Welch Bard : — 

" Then adieu, Silver Trivi ! I quit thy lov'd scene. 
To join the dim choir of the bards that have been ; 
And thou whose faint warblings my weakness can tell, 
Farewell, my lov'd Harp ! my last treasure, farewell ! " 

He rests quietly, in the beautiful Abbey of Dry- 
burg, — a few miles distant. This abbey was 
founded in the 12th century, during the reign of 
David I. 

The nave of the church is 190 feet long, and 75 
feet broad. The great dining-room of the monks, 
was 100 feet long, 30 feet broad, and 60 feet 
high. 

The west end gable of this refectory, is trian- 
gular, has a beautiful starlike w^indow, and is 
overgrown with ivy. Near the entrance door, a 



142 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

yew-tree, — said to be 700 years old — generously 
shades the inquisitive tourist. How many dark- 
robed mourners, have walked in the shadow of this 
still stately tree ! To how many soft whisperings 
of love, has it listened, when the moonbeams danced 
over the silvery surface of the murmuring Tweed! 
Over how many joyous bridal processions, has it 
waved, when the old Abbey bell summoned lovers 
to the altar, there to pledge their mutual, and per- 
petual love ! 

St. Mary's Aisle, the most beautiful part of the 
ruin, contains the tomb of the poet. A veiiy 
plain monument of Peter-Head granite, marks the 
resting place of the illustrious dead. 

Here, within the old Abbey grounds, is a house, 
once occupied by Ebenezer, and Ralph Erskine, — 
the eminent Scottish divines ; and yonder, crown- 
ing the rocky summit, is a rude statue of the 
patriot Bruce. 

The country surrounding the Abbey is beautiful. 
The trees are tall ; the meadows green ; and the 
air is sweet with the mingled fragrance of many 
flowers. 

But the sighing of the winds, and the sobbing of 
the waters, give voice to nature's sadness, over the 
ruin time has wrought. 

How quiet to-day along the borders ! Not the 
sound of a bugle can be heard ; not the flash of a 



THE TWEED. BORDER STRIFE. 143 

sabre can be seen ! The steel-clad warriors, and 
the clang of arms, have passed away ; and bards 
shall sing no more, — of border strife. Crossing 
the Tweed, we bid farewell to Scotland ; — 



Sweet Teviot ! on thy silver tide 

The glaring bale-fires blaze no more ; 
No longer steel-clad warriors ride 

Along thy wild and willowed shore. 
Where'er thou wind'st by dale or hill, 
All, all is peaceful, all is still, 

As if thy waves, since Time was born. 
Since first they rolled upon the Tweed, 
Had only heard the shepherd's reed, 

Nor started at the bugle-horn." 




CHAPTER VII. 

ENGLAND. THE CHEVIOT HILLS. YORK MINSTER. 

Taking the train, at a station a few miles dis- 
tant from Dryburgh, we cross the border, and roll 
over the Cheviot Hills. The scene, along these 
hills, is desolate. Here and there a shepherd's 
cot may be seen, surrounded by flocks of sheep, 
and herds of hornless cattle. Our train thunders 
past Carlisle, and down through northern England, 
to Leeds and York. 

The city of York, is of great antiquity, and its 
magnificent Cathedral attracts hither, annually, 
thousands of tourists. The building of the city, is 
ascribed to Agricola,in the year 50. Here also 
the Emperor Severus died, about the year 211. At 
a short distance from the city, the funeral pile was 
kindled by the Emperor's sons, while the whole 
army in solemn procession, marched thrice around 
the burning body. The ashes of the cremated mon- 
arch were deposited in an urn, and sent to Rome. 

In York also, Constantius, the father of Constan- 
144 



YORK MIKSTER. ROMAN EMPERORS. 145 

tine the Great, died in 306, and some writers con- 
tend that the latter, — the first Christian Emperor, — 
was born in York. In the neighborhood of York, 
many battles were fought between the Scots and 
Picts, and the ancient Britons. It was in the vi- 
cinity of York, that the Saxons, after expelling the 
Picts and Scots, first turned their arms against the 
Britons, who had invited them to the Island. 

But to view the Minster, or Cathedral, is the ob- 
ject of our visit. The present building, stands upon 
the site of an ancient heathen temple. The erec- 
tion of the south transept was commenced in the 
year 1220. The edifice as it now appears, was 
com2)leted about the year 1400. The architecture 
is gothic, of which there are five different styles 
exhibited, in various parts of the structure. 

This stately edifice is 524 feet long, and 221 
feet broad. The Great Tower is 214 feet high. 
The ornamentation in some parts of the building 
is very beautiful. The slender pillars, pointed 
arches, ornamented capitals, and magnificent 
stained glass windows, arrest the eye at every 
step. The east window is 75 feet high, and 32 
feet broad, and this vast illuminated space is occu- 
pied with representations of the leading events in 
Bible history. The great clock bell cost $10,000 
and weighs 12| tons. There are a num- 
ber of handsome monuments in the aisles, and in 



146 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

the Lady Chapel. For 200 years, the Minster 
has been celebrated for its music. The organ is 
played as we wander through the building, and 
the crowd of tourists seem startled, as if expecting 
to see the dead arise, and come forth. Groups of 
men and women stand in the nave, transepts, 
aisles, under arches 100 feet high, and listen with 
the most marked attention, and manifest feelings 
of wonder and delight. And why should they 
not? The scene, and the sounds, are they not in- 
spiring? Tliis lofty and magnificent building, 
with its forest of pillars, its archways 100 feet 
high, its gorgeously decorated windows, and the 
"pealing organ" filling the vast edifice with 
music, melodious and inspiring, does, we are free 
to admit, affect us strangely. 

We have never seen such a building, and we 
have never ^heard such music. A desire long 
cherished is to-day gratified. But this pealing 
organ, is inviting us to morning service. We 
enter the choir, and occupy a"-^" stall." The seat 
is comfortable, and the reflection that it may, on 
former occasions, have been occupied by some royal 
duke, or noble earl, adds much to the pleasure of 
our visit. It is 10 o'clock, and the clergy, in 
slow^ and solemn procession, are entering the choir. 
At these week-day services the attendance is small, 
and to day, it is composed chiefly of tourists. The 



SHEFFIELD. BIRMINGHAM. 147 

officiating clergymen, are tidily attired, in the cus- 
tomary ecclesiastical garments. The litany is 
chanted, and the Scriptures read. The Bible, rests 
upon the expanded wings of a brazen eagle, which 
serves the purpose of a desk. There are so many 
objects novel and strange, that the majority of the 
audience, seem more interested in the carvings and 
paintings, than in the readings or responses. 

But the clergy proceed with as much serious- 
ness, and solemnity, as if thousands were listen- 
ing and responding. Both the service, and the 
surroundings, impress us. It is our first " Cathe- 
dral service/' and we enjoy it. 

After purchasing a photographic picture of the 
" Minster," we resume our journey. The route 
lies through the centre of old England. Our train 
whirls along past Sheffield, and Chesterfield. We 
linger a season in Birmingham. The whole city 
is enveloped in smoke. There are forests of tall 
chimneys, emitting smoke of all colors. Furnaces 
are blazing for miles in every direction. Trains 
thunder along with the greatest rapidity. 

We are informed by an Englishman, that the 
number of trains arriving at, and departing from, 
the Birmingham station exceeds that of any other 
Rail Road station in England. Trains pass the 
East station at the average rate of one every 
minute! Three trains are no vv moving past this 



.> 



148 WANDERINGS IN EUHOPE. 

busy station ; and the clanging of bells, screaming 
ofwhistleSj and puffing of engines, fill the air with 
sounds most discordant. The traffic, through this 
smoking and blazing city, is enormous. But the 
work goes on, also, underground. The city is 
undermined. The ground, for miles, trembles as 
heavily laden trains go thundering over it. And 
to avoid possible, and fatal accident, the building 
of a new rail-road is seriously contemplated. 

The whole country from Birmingham to Wol- 
verhampton, — a distance of ten miles, — is covered 
wdth smoke and flames. Shafts, leading to deep 
mines, are sunk in every direction. Blazing fur- 
naces, in brilliant succession, illumine the country, 
by day and by night. Here, the sons of Vulcan 
toil, " wrapped in drifts of lurid smoke.'' 

The manufacturing cities of England, have each 
their specialty : — viz., Leeds manufactures, cheap 
cloth ; Sheffield, steel ; Birmingham, iron ; Wol- 
verhampton, japanned goods ; Manchester, dry 
goods; and London, — everything. 

Leaving this noisy bustling city, we visit .Rugby. 
And what cultivated fields, rich pasturage, and 
charming cottages, lie along the route ! How 
lovely, is this part of old England ! 

Rugby, is celebrated for its school. Clean 
winding streets, lead us, between rows of neat two, 
and three story brick buildings, along the hillside, 
to the Parish Church. 



RUGBY. LICENSED TO KEEP DOGS. 149 

Inside the gate, is a beautiful fountain, with an 
image of the Saviour pointing at the words, *' If 
any man thirst, let him come unto me and drink." 

The notices posted at the door of this venerable 
edifice, are not strictly ecclesiastical. Here, are the 
names of persons licensed to keep dogs ! Now, 
there are two kinds of dogs : viz., those that go 
upon four legs, and those that walk upon two. 
And of those dogs that walk upon two legs, there 
are several species,— such as the "sly dogs," and, 
the " lazy dogs." Which of these, the pious peo- 
ple of Rugby are "licensed" to keep, is not spe- 
cifically stated. 

And here also, are the names of all the qualified 
voters, in the town, or parish of Rugby ! This 
looks very much like the union of church, and 
state. Whether the elections are held in the 
church building, and the parson is appointed 
judge, we are not informed. 

Rugby Academy, crowns the eminence upon 
which the town is built. It is a brick edifice, 
flanked with towers, that give it the appearance of 
a castle. Some parts of the building are two, and 
some three, stories high. The chapel is a very 
large structure, built of red and white brick. 
Stately trees shade the walks, that lead through 
the closely shaven, and sparkling lawns. Here 
indeed, are " goodliest trees, planted with walks 



150 WANDERIiN-GS IN EUROPE. 

and bowers." But we see no form, we hear no 
footstep. All is silent, save the rooks. These 
black-winged noisy birds, are cawing in the 
trees, and flying over the grounds, as if they 
were the only, and legitimate, occupants of these 
lawns and bowers. 

Remembering that '^ Tom Brown'' went from 
Rugby to Oxford, we imitate his example, and 
arrive in the " University town," early in the 
afternoon. What fields, and flocks, are there in 
the vicinity of Oxford ! Such sheep and oxen, 
and such sturdy men and women, we have not 
seen elsewhere in England. 

It is now ^' vacation,'^ and the University is 
closed. Several hours are spent in wandering 
through the " quadrangles/' that constitute the 
various college buildings. What venerable struc- 
tures, and velvety lawns, and giant oaks ! Here 
is Baliol College, or quadrangle; and this the 
spot where Thomas Cranmer, the first Protestant 
archbishop of Canterbury, died at the stake, on 
the 21st day of March, 1 556 ! 

Through the kindness of a polite and gentle- 
manly old janitor, we are admitted to the grand 
dining hall, of Christ Church College. It is the 
largest in the University. The hall is 115 feet 
long, 40 feet wide, and 50 feet high. Portraits of 
Queen Elizabeth, and Cardinal Wolsey, decorate 



OXFORD UNIVERSITY. PUSEY. 151 

the wall, at the upper end of the room. The in- 
telligent janitor assures us, that those distinguished 
personages were '^patrons'' of the institution. 

Wolsey, was educated at Magdalen College, 
Oxford, — graduating in 1486, at fifteen years of 
age. In the year 1525, he founded "Cardinal 
College,'^ Oxford. This College was subsequently 
altered by Henry YIIL, and called the ** Col- 
lege of King Henry VIII.^' It is now called 
^' Christ Church College." In addition to the 
effigies of those distinguished "patrons," there 
are portraits of sixty eminent men, graduates of 
this College; and among these w^e recognize that 
of John Locke. 

The founding of the University of Oxford, is 
traced back to Alfred, in the year 880. What 
multitudes of students have \valked these streets, 
during the past thousand years! In 1231, there 
were thirty thousand students in attendance ! 

There are some eminent scholars connected with 
the University at the present time ; — and among 
them, Max Mliller, the linguist, and our old friend 
Professor Liddell, whose Greek lexicon, was a con- 
stant college comjjanion while perusing the ancient 
Classic w^orthics. And here, the scholarly, and 
so-called heretical Pusey, flourishes, in the 74th 
year of his age, after having written and pub- 
lished, nearly "sixty separate productions!" 



152 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

The University of Cambridge, was founded in 
the year 1229. It is 77 miles distant from Ox- 
ford, and while not quite as ancient an institution 
as its rival, is still worthy of a visit. 

The town of Cambridge, is by no means as at- 
tractive in appearance, as the town of Oxford. 
The streets are paved with large cobble-stones. 
The houses are built of brick, and the surrounding 
country is flat and uninteresting. 

The College buildings are erected in "quad- 
rangles/^ The " Emmanuel" college buildings, are 
two stories high ; and the beautiful lawn, is taste- 
fully ornamented with fragrant and blooming 
flowers. Some of the college buildings are ivy- 
covered, and look quite venerable. 

The library, and the Chapel of King's college, 
are the most conspicuous, and highly ornamented 
edifices, that we have seen. Some of these quad- 
rangles are built fronting upon a public highway ; 
some stand at a distance from the street ; and 
many of them are widely separated. A consid- 
erable portion of the town intervenes, between 
Emmanuel's college, and King's college. The space 
covered by these several buildings, with the lawns 
surrounding, is quite extensive. 

As we walk through the streets, and gaze upon 
these gothic structures, and beautiful quadrangles, 
we think of the noble and gifted men, who were 



UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE. 153 

educated at this University. Among its graduates 
we find the names of Milton, Dry den, Wordsworth, 
Bacon, Barrow, Latimer, Coleridge, Paley, Jeremy 
Taylor, Tillotson, Trench, and Alford. 

But we must leave for the Metropolis. London 
is distant from Cambridge just sixty miles. The 
country is level ; the pasturage and crops excel- 
lent. Some of the houses are built of brick, and 
some of stone. Some are thatched, and some are 
tiled. 

Yonder is the Metropolis, with its palaces, tem- 
ples, and towers ! 

" This city now doth, like a garment wear 
The beauty of the morning silent, fair, 
Ships, towers, domes, palaces, and temples lie 
Open unto the fields and to the sky." 

The great city is entered, and comfortable ^' lodg- 
ings " secured. On Cheapside, near St. PauFs, 
between the Post Office and the Bank, in the very 
heart of this modern Babel, we are pleasantly lo- 
cated. 

London is built, principally, in a valley, sur- 
rounded by gently rising hills. It is situated 
upon the river Thames, and by it — rolling east- 
ward — divided into two unequal parts. The dis- 
tance from the city, to the sea, is about 50 miles. 
The city covers an area of 78,000 acres, — equal to 



154 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

122 square miles. The population is estimated at 
four millions. The annual increase, is over 40,- 
000. The average density of the population, is 
40 persons to an acre. Truly this is 

" A spacious city, 
The seat where England from her ancient reign 
Doth rule the ocean as her own domain." 

There are over 500,000 houses within the city 
limits. And the rent paid annually for the use 
or occupancy of these houses, amounts to 
$100,000,000 ! 

The houses are built — largely — -of brick and 
have a somewhat dingy appearance. There are 
over 10,000 streets, squares, terraces, and lanes. 
Many of the streets are wide, and — for a con- 
siderable distance — straight, but the larger propor- 
tion are narrow, and crooked. They are well 
paved, and considering the enormous traffic, quite 
clean. These 6,600 miles of streets, are illumined 
every night by 360,000 gas lights, — burning 
13,000,000 cubic feet of gas, every twenty-four 
hours. 

Every day 44,000,000 gallons of water flow 
into London ; and every day 9,000,000 cubic feet 
of refuse matter flows out of London. For the 
accommodation of its millions, thirteen railroads, 
over and under ground, enter the city ; S3ores of 



LONDON. FOOD. TRADESMEN. 155 

steamboats ply upon the Thames, stopping at 
twenty different landings ; and 8,000 public cabs, 
and 1,500 omnibusses, roll through the streets. 
And is it any wonder that the city is occasionally 
smoky, when 5,000,000 tons of coal are annually 
consumed ? And what quantities of food, and 
drink, are annually swallowed by these millions 
of hungry and thirsty metropolitans ! 

1,600,000 quarters of wheat; 1,700,000 sheep; 
4,000,000 head of game; 3,000,000 salmon; 
300,000 bullocks; 35,000 pigs; 28^000 calves, 
with large quantities of other "fish, flesh, and 
fowl,^^ are washed down by 65,000 pipes of wine, 
2,000,000 gallons of spirits, and 43,000,000 gal- 
lons of porter and ale ! The milk of 13,000 cow^s, 
is required to keep the "cream jugs '^ full. 

And what a grand army of men and women, 
is engaged in providing for the bodily comfort, 
the mental culture, and the religious training of 
these hosts of Londoners ! Let us marshal them. 

Here marches 2,500 bakers, followed by 1,700 
butchers. Next comes 2,600 tea-dealers, accom- 
panied by 1,200 coffee-room keepers ; while 1,500 
dairy-men tramp close in the rear. 

The next brigade, is headed by 3,000 tailors ; 
then follows 3,000 boot and shoe makers ; 1,500 
milliners and dressmakers ; and 1,100 linen- 
drapers. And to settle disputes, here comes 3,000 



156 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

attorneys, and 4,000 barristers ; and to keep the 
physical system in harmony, 2,400 doctors walk 
in procession. Then follow the teachers in 1,500 
private schools, while 2,000 clergymen, represent- 
ing over 1,000 places of worship, give dignity to 
this unique, and wonderful parade. But even 
metropolitans will not live always ; and now, be- 
hold a gloomy band of 500 undertakers^ whose 
funereal services are required in the burial of the 
75,000 that annually die, ^vithin the city limits. 
This provisioning, clothing, educating and govern- 
ing a city of four millions, is a wonderful work. 
But where shall we go ? There are so many 
objects claiming attention, that we scarcely know 
where to begin. London is not only the greatest 
manufacturing city, but also the greatest com- 
mercial city, in the world. We will therefore 
honor the " Docks," by paying them a visit. The 
chosen route, passes *^ Billingsgate " market. This 
market is celebrated for the sale of fine fish, and 
the use of foul language. What rough specimens 
of Londoners ! What brutal faces, and shameful 
speech ! And how the '^ King's English,'' is mer- 
cilessly murdered, even in sight of the Tower ! 
Of the discussions this morning it may be truth- 
fully said, — 

" There, stripped, fair rhetoric languished on the ground, 
And shameful Billingsgate her robes adorn." 



LONDON DOCKS. WINE. TOBACCO. 157 

Here are St. Katherine Docks, covering a space 
of 24 acres, and costing over $8,000,000. The ware- 
houses, in connection with these docks, usually 
contain some 120,000 tons of merchandize, — prin- 
cipally from America, and the Mediterranean. 

We now pass to the London Docks. These 
docks employ a capital of $20,000,000. Here are 
ships from every quarter of the globe, manned by 
seamen of all colors, who chatter up and down the 
decks, in strange and unknown tongues. Along 
these wharves lie heaps of hides, and oil cake, casks 
of cocoa, bags of rice, barrels of tallow, with im- 
mense quantities of sugar, tea, coffee, drugs, spices, 
oils, wines, wool and cotton. The Tobacco Dock, 
has warehouses adjoining, capable of holding 
30,000,000 pounds of tobacco, and 9,000,000 
gallons of wine and spirits. How closely united 
do we here find tobacco and whiskey ? Smoking, 
and drinking, — do they not often walk hand in 
hand through life ? 

In connection with this Eastern Dock, is a wine 
and spirit vault, covering an area of seven acres ! 
Admission is free, but we have no taste for the 
beverage. 

The docks of London, cover an area of 900 acres. 
The Port of London, extends four miles; is entered 
by over 40,000 vessels annually ; and the customs 
collected amount to $55,000,000 a year ! 



158 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

" Where has commerce such a mart, — 
So rich, so thronged, so drained, and so supplied, 
As London? Opulent, enlarged, and still 
Increasing London ! " 

Lloyd's shipping office, is next visited. The 
scene, in and about the building, is a busy one. 
Flaming placards on the walls point out the 
home, colonial, and foreign, departments. Huge 
books lie upon the desks, and the names of ves- 
sels arriving at, and departing from, the various 
ports all over the world, are carefully recorded. 
Merchants eagerly scan the lists, and hurry off 
with smiling or frowning faces. A stately Eng- 
lishman, wearing a scarlet robe, guards the en- 
trance, and none can enter the room, or examine 
the books, without his permission. 

The Thames, is spanned by a number of bridges ; 
and of some of these, the Londoners are justly 
proud. Wandering through streets flanked with 
massive structures, and crowded with hurrying 
merchants, and thundering vehicles, we arrive at 
the London Bridge. This bridge is 928 feet 
long, 54 feet wide, and cost $12,000,000. 

It is not the longest, nor the widest bridge, — 
the ^' Waterloo^' being 1380 feet long, and the 
" Westminster '^ 85 feet wide, — -but the traffic over 
it is immense. It is estimated that 1000 vehicles, 
and 10,000 pedestrians, pass over this bridge every 
hour! 



BANK OF ENGLAND. CAPITAL. 159 

The Bank of England, is famous and worthy of 
a visit. Passing through Broad and Lombard 
streets, and looking upon the sitting statue of the 
philanthropic Peabody, we are face to face with 
the '^ old lady in Threadneedle street/^ 

This bank was founded in 1691, by a Scotch- 
man named Patterson. The business is conducted 
by a governor, deputy governor, and 24 directors. 

The capital is over $70,000,000. The par value 
of the stock is $500, and the market price, §1250. 
There are 1000 persons employed, and the salaries 
range from $250 to $6,000 a year. The manage- 
ment of the National Debt, amounting to $4,000,- 
000,000, is intrusted to this Bank. On this 
" Debt,^^ dividends are paid to the amount of 
$125,000,000 a year. And the Bank receives an- 
nually, from the Government, as compensation for 
its services, $1,000,000. 

At the entrance door, sits a gorgeously robed 
Englishman, closely inspecting every visitor. Gen- 
tlemen, with shining silk hats, dark green coats, 
crimson colored vests, and stylish knee breeches, 
walk hither and thither, keeping order in the es- 
tablishment. "We are conducted through the 
Bank-note and gold rooms, and the " Consol " de- 
partment. Here are men shoveling gold, as if it 
were nothing more than the ''dust of the earth.'' 
And here are curious machines, capable of weigh- 



160 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

ing 33 sovereigns a minute; and also of in- 
stantly detecting, and rejecting, every light weighted 
coin ! And yonder is a clock with 16 dials, so 
arranged, that a "face" may be seen in 16 dif- 
ferent offices. What crowds of people, and yet 
what order, in this the greatest banking establish- 
ment in the world ! 

The next public building visited is the Post 
Office. Passing along Cheapside and Newgate 
streets, we arrive at this building, about four in 
the afternoon. As business in London is trans- 
acted between the hours of 10 a. m. and 4 p. M., 
the scene at the " office/' at the latter hour, is ex- 
ceedingly lively. Letters, carried by all man- 
ner of conveyance, are tumbled into the receiving 
boxes by the thousands. Scores of men and boys, 
are rushing with full baskets, to the various re- 
ceptacles. Wagon loads of precious documents, 
are whirled through the gates, at the utmost 
speed. Crowds of lazy people, wonderingly — 
stare at these swift-footed messengers. 

But the quickness of movement inside, fully 
equals the rapidity of motion outside. 1,500 clerks 
are engaged in assorting, and despatching. And 
the mail matter handled annually at this office, is 
said to be 12,000,000 book parcels : 80,000,000 
newspapers ; and 800,000,000 letters. 

The Tower of London y is the most celebrated 



THE TOWER OF LONDON. 161 

fortress in Great Britain. It is, or has been, both 
a citadel, a palace, a prison, an armory, and a 
treasury. Tradition ascribes its foundation to 
Csesar. Shakespeare, in King Eichard, speaks 
thus of this ancient structure : — 

"Prince. Where shall we sojourn till our coronation? 
" Gloster. Where it seems best unto your royal self. 

If I may counsel you, some day or two 

Your Highness will repose you at the Tower. 
" Prince. I do not like the Tower, of any place,— 

Did Julius Csesar build that place, my lol-d ? 
" Buck. He did, my gracious lord, begin that place, 

Which since succeeding ages have re-edified." 

It is situated on the north bank of the Thames, 
and the area of the Tower, within the walls, is 
twelve acres. How many famous men were here 
imprisoned ! John, King of France ; the Duke 
of Orleans ; the Duke of Buckingham ; the Duke 
of Marlborough ; the Earl of Shaftesbury ; Lord 
Russell ; and Sir Walter Raleigh, had free lodg- 
ings furnished in these gloomy apartments ! 

And here Sir Thomas More, Lady Jane Grey 
(1553), Queen Anne Boleyn (1536), and Queen 
Katherine Howard (1542), fourth wife of Henry 
yilL, were beheaded. Lord Lovat, was the last 
gentlemen left headless on Tower Hill. This oc- 
curred in 1747. 

A sturdy old pensioner, dressed in quaint mili- 
7* 



162 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

tary cosliime, conducts visitors throagh the build- 
ing. It contains 70^000 stands of arms. It also 
contains a large collection of ancient armor, and 
curious weapons used in attack and defense, on the 
battle-fields of centuries ago. And these are so 
systematically arranged, in separate apartments, 
that they not only illustrate the methods of ancient 
warfare, but also reveal the successive changes 
effected in the ministry of war^ from the earliest 
ages until the present time. Here are weapons, 
taken in the Indian campaigns from the Sikhs, 
Burmese, and Chinese. And here are equestrian 
figures, clothed in the armor "fashionable" be- 
tween the years 1272 and 1688. These mail- 
sheathed steeds, mounted by steel-clad effigies, so 
bright and burnished, and in such eager attitude, 
seem ready to rush forth to battle. We instinc- 
tively shrink back from that well poised lance, lest 
haply it should pierce a tourist's panoply, — our 
linen duster ! Here is a suit of damasked armor, 
worn by Henry VIII. And yonder an effigy of 
Queen Elizabeth, arrayed in the armor worn by 
Her Majesty at Tilbury, in 1588, when she made 
her memorable speech to the soldiers. 

The small %rras, are so arranged as to ^' strike 
the eye,'' harmlessly and agreeably. They form 
numerous devices. Here is a balustrade of swords, 
and a floor made of ram-rods. And along the 



THE TOWEE. CEOWN JEWELS. 163 

walls, are representations of stars, and flowers. 
And above us, suspended from the ceiling, is a 
shining chandelier, in the construction of which 
over 3,000 arms have been used, including swords 
and bayonets ! 

But we enter the *^ Bloody Tower,^' and climb 
to the " Jewel House." Here, in a glazed iron 
cage, in the centre of a well-lighted room, we find 
the Regalia, and crown jewels of England. This 
is Victoria's crown — a cap of purple velvet, en- 
closed by silver hoops, and studded with diamonds. 
It weighs If lbs., and is valued at |600,000. St. 
Edward's Staff — of beaten gold — is 4 feet 7 inches 
1 ^ng. The Royal Sceptre, is of pure gold, and 2 
feet 9 inches in length. The Rod of Equity, — 3 
feet 7 inches long — is of gold, and set with dia- 
monds. In this carefully guarded cage, are also 
the Royal Spurs, used at the coronation ; the Gold 
Coronation Spoon, from which oil is poured upon 
the Sovereign ; and the Baptismal Font — silver gilt 
— used at the christening of the Royal children. 

And shining conspicuously amidst these silver, 
and golden, and jewelled ornaments, is the famous 
Koh-i-Noor diamond. This diamond belonged to 
Runjeet Singh, and was captured by the army that 
conquered the city of Lahore, Northern India. It 
is of large size, and great brilliancy. The jewels 
in this '' case," are valued at $15,000,000 ! 



164 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

The British Museum j is an object of great in- 
terest, not only to the citizens of London, but to 
visitors at the British Metropolis. Leaving the 
Tower, and walking through Lombard St., Cheap- 
side, under Temple Bar, and along the Strand 
and Drury Lane, an afternoon is delightfully and 
profitably spent, in this treasure-house of Science 
and Art. The building cost over $5,000,000. 
The cost of buildings and collections, from the 
founding of the Museum in 1753, until 1872, 
amounted to over $17,000,000. The buildings 
are erected in the form of a quadrangle. The 
reading-room is circular, surmounted by a dome 
140 feet in diameter, and 106 feet in height. In 
this room 300 readers are accommodated with 
separate desks. The Library of the Museum, 
contains over 700,000 volumes. 

On the tables, in the George III. library, are 
some beautiful specimens of printing, illustrating 
the progress made in that art, since the days of 
Guttenbergh, and Faust. 

There are 30,000 manuscripts in the library ; 
and some of these date back to the 4th and 5th 
centuries. The largest collection of Hebrew books 
in the world, rests on these shelves. The Mazarine 
Bible, printed by Guttenberg's press at Mainz, 
in 1455, — and the earliest printed book known, — 



BRITISH MUSEUM. ROSETTA STONE. 165 

is one of the many rare books owned by the 
Museum. 

The Sculpture Gallery, is exceedingly interesting. 
Here, in the Egyptian Saloon, is a colossal head 
of Rameses II., 9 feet high ; and here is also the 
celebrated Rosetta stone. It is a piece of black 
basalt 3 feet long, 2 feet 5 inches broad, and about 
12 inches thick. Its tri-lingual inscription, fur- 
nished a key, by which to unlock the mysteries of 
Egyptian hieroglyphics. It rests upon a very 
modest pedestal, in the centre of the room, and 
yet it has shed more light upon the path of anti- 
quarian, and historian, than all the giant statues 
by which it is surrounded. 

Among the Assyrian Antiquities, stands a monu- 
ment of Sennacherib, pointing back to 800 B. c. ; 
and a beautiful obelisk, ascribed to an earlier date. 

In the Elgin Hall, are some of the finest Greek 
sculptures. 

It is supposed that some of these were executed 
by Phidias. Here are statues that once decorated 
the Parthenon ; and this the '^ Frieze," of that 
matchless Temple. 

How the glory of Greece has departed, when 
the sculptures that beautified her most splendid 
edifices, have been removed from her soil, and 
placed on exhibition in England's metropolis ! 

The Kensington Museum, is of more recent 



166 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

origin^ and to certain classes, much more attrac- 
tive than the " British." It Avas founded by 
Prince Albert in 1852 ; and the total outlay, — 
including the cost of the buildings, — from 1852 
until 1872, amounted to $8,000,000. 

The objects exhibited, consist principally of 
paintings, sculptures, porcelain, pottery, orna- 
mented furniture, metal-work, tapestries, em- 
broideries, &c. There is also a loan exhibition, 
in connection with the Museum. What a wealth 
of material is contained in these beautifully deco- 
rated courts ! Here, painter, and sculptor, artist 
and artizan, manufacturer and merchant, may find 
objects worthy of study. 

This is the musical court. What a number, 
and what a variety of wind and stringed instru- 
ments, are here collected ! 

In looking at these curiously constructed music- 
making machines, we are inclined to believe that 
some of them were fashioned by Jubal, and that 
they travelled to the Museum over Mount Ararat. 
Here is an old bag-pipe with velvet bags, and 
ivory keys. And yonder is a finger-organ owned 
by Luther ; while close beside it is the harpischord 
played by Handel ! 

In an adjoining room, is the royal robe of 
Theodore, King of Abyssinia. It was captured 
by General Wolsey, on the 8th of April, 1874, at 



KENSINGTON MUSEUM. KING THEODORE. 167 

the taking of Magdala. It is of damask silk, 
shining with gold. How his sable majesty must 
have shone in the presence of his dasky warriors, 
when robed with this glittering garment ! 

If we are correctly informed, love was the cause 
of this monarch's downfall. In an unlucky hour, 
he ^'proposed'' to Victoria; and being cruelly, 
but most politely rejected, he laid violent hands 
npon a few wayfaring Englishmen. General Wol- 
sey, with British battalions, released the prisoners 
and slew the king. Poor Theodore ! And yet he 
was not the first man who lost his head,— by 
" falling in love.'' 

In the picture gallery, occupying a separate 
apartment, are the celebrated Cartoons of Ra- 
phael. These were executed in 1514, at the re- 
quest of Leo X. They are drawings on card- 
board, in chalk, tinted with distemper. The sub- 
jects are scriptural, viz. : Christ's Charge to Peter ; 
The Death of Ananias ; Peter and John at the 
beautiful gate; Healing the Lame Man; Paul 
and Barnabas at Lystra; Elymas the Sorcerer 
struck Blind; Paul Preaching at Athens; The 
Miraculous Draught of Fishes. They are owned 
by the Queen, and loaned by Her Majesty to the 
Exhibition. They are regarded by competent 
critics, as "the grandest productions of Christian 



168 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

There is one painting in the gallery that attracts 
universal attention. It is ^' The worship of 
Bacchus, or the drinking customs of society from 
the cradle to the grave.^^ The picture is most 
impressive. In the foreground is a group of 
bright, innocent, happy children ; in the back- 
ground, the first social gathering around the wine 
cup ; the reeling drunkard ; the station house ; 
the house of correction ; the hospital ; the magda- 
len house; the work house; and the lunatic 
asylum ! 

The Houses of Parliament^ are on the left bank 
of the '^ silver-streaming Thames." The building 
covers an area of 8 acres, has 100 staircases, 1100 
apartments, and more than two miles of corridors. 
It is heated by 16 miles of steam pipes; and the 
gas consumed in lighting it costs annually over 
$17,000. 

The River Front, is 900 feet in length ; and the 
"Victoria Tower" 75 feet square, and 340 feet 
high. At the east end of the building, the '^ Clock 
Tower" rises to a height of 320 feet. The " Palace 
Clock" placed in this Tower, strikes the hours, 
and chimes the quarters, upon 8 bells ; and shows 
the time upon four dials, each 30 feet in diameter. 
The entire cost of erecting these magnificent build- 
ings, is estimated at $15,000,000. 

But, for profit and enjoyment, let us inspect this 



COURTS. THE CHIEF JUSTICE. 169 

" New Palace '^ a little more closely. An excel- 
lent opportunity is afforded, as the Court sits, and 
Parliament is in session. Adjoining Westminster 
Hall, are the crowded court rooms. The judges 
are robed in '^ purple and scarlet," and crowned 
with curly wigs. Yonder, presiding with great 
dignity, sits the Lord Chief Justice of England, — ■ 
Judge Cockburn. But how unmasculine does this 
distinguished lawyer appear, clothed in his judicial 
garments ! That full, florid, beardless face, set in 
a framework of horse hair, with long curly ap- 
pendages, might be taken, or mistaken, for the 
amiable countenance of some good-natured, well- 
preserved, English grandmother. Pardon us, 
Judge, — but this is the exact impression. 

In the next room Sir John D. Coleridge pre- 
sides. In a lively discussion between an inquisi- 
tive juryman, and a fractious witness, Sir John 
reveals rare powers of analysis, keen wit, and bril- 
liant repartee. 

To reach the House of Commons, we must pass 
through Westminster Hall. This hall was built 
in 1399, and is 270 f^et long, 74 feet wide, and 90 
feet high. 

Here Richard II. kept his Christmas, entertain- 
ing 10,000 guests each day. It was in this 
magnificent hall, — fitted up as a court, — that 
Charles I. was tried, and Warren Hastings im- 



170 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

peached. Passing from Westminster Hall, we 
enter St. Stephen's Hall, 95 feet long, 34 feet wide, 
56 feet high, and beautifully decorated. On either 
side are statues of eminent statesmen. Here is the 
somewhat bulky figure of Fox, and the more 
slender forms of Pitt, Burke, and Grattan, — each 
in their characteristic attitudes. And how expres- 
sive are those marble features ; how eloquent those 
marble gestures ! 

We now enter the Octagon Hall, a most ela- 
borately ornamented room, 70 feet square, and 80 
feet high. To our left, is the House of Commons, 
62 feet long, 45 broad, and 45 high. Having se- 
cured a ticket of admission, we take a seat in the 
visitors' gallery. The House is quite full this 
afternoon, and the debate in progress. These 
Commoners, sitting with covered heads, look like 
a company of Quakers. The only member of this 
great deliberative body with head uncovered, is 
the distinguished leader of the Conservatives, — 
Benjamin Disraeli. Close beside him on the mi- 
nisterial bench, sit Messrs. Hunt, and Cross. 
When a strong speech is made by some liberal 
opponent, these staff officers consult with the chief, 
and carry out his orders by immediately " moving 
on the enemy." The subject under discussion, 
relates to the manufacturing interests of different 
parts of the kingdom. 



HOUSE OF COMMONS. HOUSE OF LORDS. 171 

Irishmen from the north, and the south, Scotch- 
men, and Englishmen, present the claims of 
their respective constituencies. As England and 
Wales returns 500 members, Ireland 105, and 
Scotland 53, the Englishmen are in the majority : 
and when united, can legislate just as they please. 

In all the turmoil, the " hear," " hear," and the 
clapping of hands, the Premier sits unmoved. 
How quiet and indifiPerent, and yet how watchful 
and wily, is this distinguished Jewish statesman ! 

Retracing our steps, we enter the House of 
Lords. This chamber is 97 feet long, 45 wide, 
45 high, and most richly and elaborately orna- 
mented. The wood-carving is exquisite. Yonder 
is the Throne, — occupied by her Majesty when she 
visits the House. In the centre of the chamber, 
is the Woolsack, on which the Lord Chancellor 
sits. At the east end of the room, a committee 
of the House of Lords is now in session. Lord 
Chancellor Cairns is pointed out by an obsequious 
attendant ; and the noble " Lord " really looks 
like an ordinary mortal. 

In passing from the ''Lords," we are ap- 
proached by a policeman, and politely informed 
that the '^ Duke " is in an adjoining room. And 
without further ceremony, we are ushered into the 
committee-room, and into the presence of His 
Eoyal Highness the Duke of Cambridge, cousin 



172 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

of the Queen, and commander-in-chief of the 
British army. The royal warrior, is surrounded 
by a joint committee of the Lords and Commons 
and is being closely interrogated respecting the 
condition, and disposition of the British forces in 
India. His Highness receives the small salary 
of $17,000 a year, as commander-in-chief. The 
soldiers of the '' line " receive as pay the large 
sum of $105 annually. From the very simple 
considerations of safety, and salary, most men 
would prefer being commander-in-chief. 

The London Parks, ornamented with winding 
flower-bordered pathways, stately oaks, sparkling 
fountains, miniature lakes, and marble monu- 
ments, — are charming places of recreation and 
amusement. 

The Englishman's love for the green sward, is 
revealed in the number and location of these 
^' city lungs." The Surrey Gardens, covering an 
area of 16 acres, are in the southern section of the 
city. Victoria Park, situated in the north-east, 
contains 290 acres. This may be styled the poor 
man's park, as the laboring-classes reside in the 
immediate vicinity. Regent's Park, in the north- 
west, covers an area of 472 acres, and contains 
within its limits the beautiful " Royal Botanical 
Gardens," and the popular and unrivalled ^' Zoolo- 
gical Gardens." u?wo thousand animals are here 



PARKS. ZOOLOGICAL GARDEN. 173 

exhibited. The arrangements for bird and beast 
are most admirable. By the labels on the doors 
and cages, we are informed that a large number 
of the " inhabitants " were presented to the man- 
agement by ship captainS; travelers, and various 
explorers on land and sea. 

James' Park, containing 91 acres, Green Park 
60 acres, Hyde Park 390 acres, and Kensington 
Gardens 210 acres, are all in the western part of 
the city, and quite close to each other. The dis- 
tance from the east end of James' Park, to the 
west end of Kensington Gardens, is nearly three 
miles ; and in traveling between the two points, 
the pedestrian traverses these four parks in suc- 
cession, and may walk almost continuously over 
the smooth green turf 

In this pleasant three miles excursion, we pass 
the Pall Mall, Piccadilly, and Buckingham Pal- 
ace ; and are surrounded on all sides by the costly 
and magnificent residences of princely merchants, 
eminent bankers, noble lords, and royal dukes. 




CHAPTER yill. 

WINDSOR CASTLE AND THE QUEEN. 

Windsor Castle, about twenty miles distant 
from London, is the principal residence of the 
English monarchs. It was founded by William 
the Conqueror, and is situated upon an eminencie 
commanding a most extensive, and charming view 
of the surrounding country. 

The day is bright and beautiful, and an hour's 
ride brings us in sight of this royal Palace. The 
flag floats on the Tower, indicating that the 
Queen is at home. By climbing 160 steps, and 
proceeding to the '^ Terrace,'^ we have the grandest 
view of English rural scenery thus far enjoyed. 
What waving woods, lovely parks, and winding 
silvery streams greet the eye ! 

From the Castle Terrace, we see 

" Where the silver Thames first rural grows." 

The sloping grounds are tastefully ornamented 
with shrubbery, and flower-beds curiously ar- 
ranged, while the w^inding pathways are pleasantly 
174 



WINDSOR. THE QUEEN. BEATRICE. 175 

shaded by stately trees. Along these smooth 
flower-bordered walks, over and through these 
emerald velvety lawns, where the atmosphere is 
sweet with fragrance, and vocal with song, Eng- 
land's Queen rambles daily. 

Her Majesty is driving in the Park this after- 
noon, and paying a visit to the tomb of her be- 
loved Albert. Victoria and Albert were " lovely 
and pleasant in their lives/' and the manner in 
which his memory is cherished by the widowed 
Queen, does honor to her sex, and sheds a brighter 
lustre on England's Grown. 

This great Windsor Park, where the deer run 
wild, and royal game is in abundance, contains 
3800 acres ; and the Forest is 56 miles in circum- 
ference. 

But here comes the Queen, accompanied by 
Princess Beatrice, — the only unmarried daughter. 
They are seated in a very plain open carriage. A 
splendid pair of gray horses seem proud of their 
traces, while the driver is as imperious as a Prince. 
The Queen is robed in dark-colored garments ; 
is quite unassuming in manner ; has a serious 
and thoughtful expression of countenance ; — and 
such a real, true motherly look ! 

Beatrice is a comely, modest maiden. She 
seems quite unconscious of her position, title, and 
surroundings. How could she be vain, and 



176 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

triflings in the presence of such a thoughtful, wise, 
and godly mother ? 

John Brown, — Prince Albert's faithful Scotch 
servant,— accompanies the royal party. How 
easily a " lord'' might envy him his position, — 
the Queen's ever-present attendant ! 

The gate-keeper's daughter, a Scotch lassie, who 
has a brother in America, is quite talkative, and 
communicates sundry items of information respect- 
ing the royal household. This young woman con- 
verses daily with the Queen, who seems to be 
strongly attached to the Scotch. A Highland 
piper, we are informed, plays every afternoon 
under the palace window, for the amusement and 
pleasure of Her Majesty. 

When the Queen is ^' in residence," visitors are 
not permitted to inspect the royal apartments. But 
to view these grand old Gothic structures, lofty 
towers, and palace courts ; to see England's 
Queen and Windsor Castle, is quite sufficient for 
one afternoon. 

Buckingham Palace, the city residence of the 
Sovereign, is this evening brilliantly illuminated. 

Taking tea, in the neighborhood of the Palace, 
and being attracted by whirling equipages, and 
prancing steeds, we inquire the cause of this com- 
motion among the aristocracy. A policeman on 
the " Mall " informs us that the Queen has ordered 



ROYAL RECEPTION AT BUCKINGHAM. 177 

a ^^ State reception/^ and requested the Prince of 
Wales to represent Her Majesty. As this is one 
of the very few royal receptions given since the 
death of the Prince Consort, it awakens quite an 
interest among the fashionables of the West End. 
And as Parliament is in session, and the noble- 
men of Britain are all at the metropolis, the attend- 
ance is large, and the display most brilliant. Just 
picture the audience, with the following indi- 
viduals in '^ full dress," viz. : 6 Princes, and 3 
Princesses; 116 members of the diplomatic corps, 
representing 24 different nations; 19 Dukes, and 
19 Duchesses; 21 Marquises, and 23 Marchion- 
esses; 76 Earls, and 53 Countesses; 43 Counts, 
and 23 Viscountesses ; 103 Lords, and 300 
Ladies ; 40 Eight Honourables, 80 Honourables, 
and 140 Honourable Mesdames ; 75 Sirs, 160 
Messieurs, and 125 Mesdames; 33 Admirals, 22 
Captains, 10 Commanders, 50 Generals, and 57 
Colonels ! 

The Scots Fusilier Guards, mounted in the 
Palace Court, act as a guard of honor. The Eoyal 
Body Guard of the Yeomen, are on duty in the 
interior of the palace. 

In company with a large number of un-titled 
individuals, we attend this royal reception, — out- 
side the Palace gate. 

But even at this distance, there are/^ streaming 



178 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

glories," quite sufficient to dazzle our republican 
eyes. Hundreds of carriages come whirling to the 
palace gate: — from the two-wheeled Hansom cab, 
drawn by a spirited pony, to the royal chariot 
thundering at the heels of six richly caparisoned 
horses. These numerous vehicles, with their 
lamps all trimmed and burning, sweeping through 
the upper gate, winding around the stately palace, 
and rolling homeward through the southern en- 
trance, form lines and circles of wavy light, that 
are beautiful to behold. The appearance is that 
of a hurried torchlight procession, marching in 
single file. 

But there is quite an excitement. Policemen 
are running to and fro. There is lively cheering 
along the streets. The " clatter of street pacing 
steeds" are heard in the distance ; and a stentorian 
loyal Britisher thrills the expectant crowd by 
shouting '^ here comes the Prince ! ^' Along the 
wide " Mall" from Marlborough Plouse, the royal 
chariot, drawn by six richly caparisoned galloping 
horses, comes thundering towards the gate. There 
are twQ mounted " coachmen," and four gorgeously 
appareled '^ footmen." A detachment of the royal 
Horse Guards, in full military uniform, and 
brandishing glittering swords, surround His Royal 
Highness. The spectacle is brilliant. Loud cheers 
ring out from the enthusiastic spectators. And 



PRIXCESSES. HOW ADOENED. 179 

when this royal procession is lost to view behind 
the stately palace, we wander homeward, wishing 
that we were the Prince of Wales, — or, indeed, 
any other member of the Royal Family. 

But we imagine that some of our lady readers, 
are exceedingly anxious to know how these Prin- 
cesses were adorned. " What did the Princess of 
Wales wear ? '^ " What kind of head-dress 
crowned the Princess Christian?" "Please do 
tell us." Having the slightest possible knowledge 
of the millinery business, and yet wishing to gratify 
the desires of our inquisitive readers, we consult 
the critic of the London Times. This gentleman 
is regarded as " authority,'' among the " higher '' 
circles of Metropolitan society. He solemnly 
assures us that " Her Royal Highness, the Princess 
of Wales, w^ore a dress of brown poult-de-soie with 
plaitings of brown tulle and Honiton lace, orna- 
mented with garlands of the rose-de-the and veiled 
with silver spotted tulle. Head-dress and orna- 
ments of pearls and diamonds. Orders, Victoria 
and Albert, and the Danish Family Order.'' The 
same reliable authority informs us that '^ Her 
Royal Highness, the Princess Christian, wore a 
dress of white moire antique and satin trimmed 
with Brussels lace, white orchids, and tulle. Head- 
dress, tiara of torquoises and diamonds with 
bunches of orchids. Ornaments, torquoise, and 



180 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

diamonds. Orders, Victoria and Albert, and the 
Prussian, Portuguese, and Russian Orders.'' Any 
further explanation seems quite unnecessary. 

The Crystal Palace, crowning the heights of 
Sydenham, is one of the most attractive, and in- 
structive places of popular resort in all Europe. 
To reach it, in the distant suburbs, we take the 
" Rail Road of the Rats.'' This is the name given 
by the ^' Cockneys" to the underground passage. 
A ticket is purchased for the Thames Tunnel, in 
order that we may travel, neither above, nor on, but 
under the river. Descending several flights of 
stairs, we stand in an underground station, await- 
ing the arrival of the train. This Tunnel consists 
of two arched passages 1200 feet long, 14 feet wide, 
16 J feet high, separated by a brick wall 4 feet 
thick. The crown of the arch is 16 feet below the 
bed of the river. 

The total cost was over $2,225,000. Strange 
how a little insect, suggested to Brunei the plan by 
which this marvel of engineering could be accom- 
plished. In studying the form of this little crea- 
ture, and the manner in which it cuts its way 
through the hardest wood, the great engineer was 
enabled to pierce beneath the bed of the Thames. 
How wise is the great Architect ; and how His 
wisdom shines even in the structure of the tiniest 
insect. Well might the Psalmist exclaim, "O 



UNDER THE THAMES. CRYSTAL PALACE. 181 

Lord how manifold are thy works ! in wisdom 
hast thou made them all V^ 

The passage through the Tunnel is made with- 
out any real discomfort, only we emerge upon the 
other side with a better appreciation of sunlight, 
and the beauties of the " upper worlcl.^^ 

The Palace grounds are reached and explored. 
These grounds, including the Garden, and Park, 
contain over 200 acres. The undulating and slop- 
ing surface, is intersected by winding pathways, 
and ornamented with terraces, temples, fountains, 
cascades, close-cut lawns, shrubbery, and flowers, 
most artistically and beautifully arranged. The 
shining " Crystal " edifice crowns the eminence, 
and commands the most extensive view within 20 
miles of London. The building cost $7,250,000. 
The whole scene is a perfect surprise. 

But let us walk up the hillside noting a few of 
the most interesting objects. Here in the valley, 
is the largest educational model we have ever seen 
on exhibition. It covers several acres ; and com- 
bines land and water. It is a most successful 
effort to illustrate the structure of the earth, by 
presenting the various strata, in the same relative 
position disclosed by geology. 

Here is a little mountain artificially constructed. 
It contains several thousand tons of various kind 
of rocks. These rocks are arranged according to 



182 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

the teachings of geology. Beneath is the old red 
sandstone, concerning which Hugh Miller wrote so 
eloquently. Then follows mountain limestone, 
millstone grit, bands of ironstone, beds of coal, and 
the new red sandstone. 

But standing along these artificial mounds, are 
the forms of animals inhabiting the lakes and the 
forests, in those far-distant and uncertain ages. 
Here is the Magalosaurus, and Mososaurus, and 
Plesiosaurus, and Hylseosaurus. What strange 
and frightful-looking creatures ! 

As we ascend the sloping hillside, the fountains 
begin to ^' play.'' The basin of this fountain is 
784 feet long, with a diameter of 468 feet. The 
central jet leaps 250 feet into the air ! When all 
the fountains are sporting themseh^es, 11,788 jets 
sparkle in the sunlight ! And 120,000 gallons of 
water are forced through the pipes in a minute. 
In a single complete display, 2,000,000 gallons of 
water are sent bounding towards the sky in fifteen 
minutes ! 

Passing the cascades and climbing the stairway, 
we enter the building. The interior is most beau- 
tifully arranged. Along the nave on either side, 
are a number of " courts,'^ designed to illustrate 
tiie style of architecture peculiar to the different 
nations, or prevalent in certain centuries. This is 
a most interesting department. Here are the 



CRYSTAL PALACE. CONCERTS. AMUSEMENTS. 183 

Egyptian, Grecian, Roman, Byzantine, Italian, 
and French Courts, each ornamented with such 
decorations as were most admired, by the artists of 
these several countries. 

The entertainments this afternoon are varied. 
In one of the concert-rooms, the " Mountaineers 
of the Apennines " are amusing an immense au- 
dience, by playing upon their novel instruments. 
At 3J o'clock the " orchestral band,'' makes the 
air musical ; at 5J- the "Mexican athlete " performs 
on the " High Bars," while Mr. Coward, the great 
organist, delights the music-loving visitors, with 
selections from the compositions of Rossini, Han- 
del, and Mozart. 

The annual expense of the " Palace " amounts 
to $300,000. The price of admission is 25 cents 
each day except Saturday, wlien the charge is 60 
cents. None of the London Art Galleries or Ex- 
hibition Palaces are open on the Sabbath. 

By climbing, spirally, 400 steps, we stand upon 
the Palace Tower. The elevation is 200 feet 
higher than the cross on St. Paul's and 550 feet 
above the surface of the Thames. Yonder is 
London lying along the banks of the river, a 
veritable "smoky hollow." The panorama of 
woods, and meadows, shining cottages and bloom- 
ing gardens, is quite picturesque. 

aS'^. Faults Cathedral, is considered by the crit- 



184 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

ics '^ the noblest biiildino; in Great Britain in the 
Classic style. '^ It is built in the form of a Latin 
cross; is 550 feet east and west; 250 feet north and 
south ; and the distance from the pavement to the 
cross is 370 feet. The cross is 30 feet in height 
and weighs 3360 lbs. The great bell weighs 
11.000 lbs. The building w^as 35 years in course 
of erection: was completed in 1710; and cost 
13.750.000. 

This enormous sum was raised by a *^ small" 
tax on coal. The circumference of the building is 
2292 feet. It is located in the very midst of the 
business section of the city, being surrounded by 
two streets, called the '^Bow'^ and "the String." 
Land in the vicinity of St. Paul's is valued at 
15.000.000 an acre! 

The Cathedral contains several beautiful monu- 
ments; and many illustrious men, — poets, philoso- 
phers, soldiers, and sailors, have found in St. Paul's 
their last resting-place. Here are the tombs of 
the Duke of Wellington, Lord Nelson, Sir Joshua 
Reynolds, and Benjamin West. 

On Sabbath evening, an immense audience is 
seated under the dome, and in the nave, and tran- 
septs. The Lord Bishop of Manchester is the 
preacher. The celebration of the anniversary of 
the "Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to 
Animals '^ is the occasion. The audience is es- 



ST. Paul's, sabbath service. 185 

timated at 10^000. The hymns are printed upon 
'^ slips/' that all may unite in the service of song. 
Some of these hymns are very familiar : — 

" Jesus lover of my soul 
Let me to thy bosom fly," 
and 

*' Hark ! hark, my soul ; Angelic songs are swelling 

O'er earth's green fields, and ocean's wave-beat shore: 
How sweet tJie truth those blessed strains are telling 
Of that new life when sin shall be no more." 

The distinguished preacher is enabled, with the 
assistance of a sounding board, to scatter his well- 
rounded periods among the audience, making him- 
self quite intelligible to the thousands of listeners. 
The music and the singing is grand ! That magni- 
ficent organ handled by a celebrated " performer ;'^ 
the trained cathedral choir ; and the 10,000 wor- 
shipers, — all in unison — is most impressive, and 
inspiring. Never did we enjoy such a service of 
song. And we can never forget this beautiful 
Sabbath evening, spent in St. Paul's. 

Westminster Abbey, is the most venerable-look- 
ing, and the most interesting Church edifice we 
have ever visited. It is 416 feet long, and 203 
broad ; the height of the roof from the pavement 
is 101 feet; and the height of the Towers 225 
feet. It is built in the forrn of a Latin Qi^oss • iu 
3* 



186 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

the pointed style of architecture ; and the erection 
of some parts of the edifice, is ascribed to Edward 
the Confessor, who ruled 800 years ago. 

The beautiful stained glass windows, are orna- 
mented with representations of Old and New Tes- 
tament worthies :— Moses, Aaron, the Patriarchs, 
Christ, and the Apostles. The aisles, transepts 
and chapels, contain numerous and costly monu- 
ments, erected to the memory of the illustrious 
dead. The Choir is wainscoted, and elegantly 
fitted up with stalls and seats. 

This is Monday afternoon, and the entire build- 
ing is open to visitors free of charge. Beginning 
at the " Poet's Corner,''^ in the south transept, we 
will slowly ramble through this venerable Abbey 
Minster. In this " corner " we find monuments 
erected to Shakspeare, Chaucer, Spenser, Dryden, 
Addison, Goldsmith, Campbell, Gray, and to sev- 
eral other distinguished literary men. Here also 
Thackeray, Dickens, Grote, and David Livingstone 
are buried. 

In the south transept we find a gravestone 
marking the resting place of "Old Parr," who 
lived in the reigns of three princes, and who died 
in 1635, aged 152 years ! 

In the north transept, there is a noble monu- 
ment to Lord Chatham. It was erected by the 
King and Parliament, and cost $30,000. 



WESTMINSTER ABBEY. TOMBS 187 

" Bacon there 
Gives more than female beauty to a stone, 
And Chatham's eloquence to marble lips." 

Here also is a standing statue of Sir Robert 
Peel ; and these are the smooth stones covering 
the graves of Pitt and Fox. 

*' The mighty chiefs sleep side by side ; 
Drop upon Fox's grave the tear, 
'Twill trickle to his rival's bier." 

In the nave, are monuments to Sir William 
Temple, Sir Isaac Newton, Sir James Mackintosh, 
William Pitt, C. J. Fox, and Major Andre ! 
Andre was executed by the Americans as a spy in 
1780; and the monument to his memory was 
erected at the expense of George III. 

Henry VII.' S Chapel contains the tombs and 
effigies of Henry YII. and Queen : the work was 
executed by an Italian artist, and was regarded 
by Lord Bacon, as *^^one of the stateliest and dain- 
tiest tombs in Europe." In the south aisle of the 
chapel is a tomb, with a recumbent effigy of Mary 
Queen of Scots. This was erected by her son, 
James I. The marble face is beautiful ; and around 
it gather crowds of visitors, — men and women, — 
w^ho frequently exclaim, — what a lovely face ! The 
north aisle contains the tomb and e^gy of Queen 
Elizabeth. Her sister, Queen Mary, is buried in 



188 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

the same grave. In this chapel the '* Westminster 
Assembly " held a number of meetings. 

The ^' Chapel of Edward the Confessor " is per- 
haps the most interesting of these royal cemeteries. 
The shrine of this somewhat superstitious mon- 
arch, is erected in the centre of the chapel, and 
surrounded by the graves and monuments of Kings 
and Queens, Here is a bronze effigy of Henry 
III. ; and the altar tombs of Edward I., Edward 
III., and Henry V. Twenty Kings and Queens 
of England are buried in these chapels. 

The ^' Coronation chairs '' are kept in the " Con- 
fessor's " Chapel. In this modest old chair, the 
,Kings and Queens of England have been crowned 
during the past 600 years ! A very strange-look- 
ing stone is attached to the bottom of the chair, 
by cramps of iron. How came this piece of reddish 
gray sandstone, 26 inches long, 16 inches wide, and 
11 inches thick into such a position? Why has 
this been strapped to England's coronation chair ? 
The explanation is very simple. 

On this stone the Kings of Scotland, in the 
'^ guid auld '' days were crowned. Edward I. cap- 
tured it, and carried it to England as evidence of 
England's supremacy. And thus England and 
Scotland became united, in the '^Chapel of Edward 
the Confessor,'' — by bands of iron. 

But the sun is sinking in the west; and the 



OLD MINSTER SERVICES. SCENES. 189 

aisles and monuments are faintly illumined by 
" the dim religious light '^ streaming through the 
stained glass windows. Standing in ' the choir, 
where for centuries the monarchs have been 
crowned, and looking upon those statues designed 
to perpetuate their memory, we reflect upon the 
scenes this venerable building has witnessed, and 
the generations that have worshiped within its 
walls. How many brilliant coronation proces- 
sions have marched, during the past 600 years, 
through yonder gateway ! How many sad and 
sorrowing assemblages have crowded this stately 
temple, when the Abbey bell summoned a weep- 
ing nation, to behold the open grave of a sover- 
eign beloved ! To how many stormy debates, and 
to what thrilling eloquence, has the old Chapter- 
house listened, during the 300 years it was the 
" home " of the Commons of England ! And to 
what learned discussions, and profound theological 
disquisitions did these walls listen, during the 
1163 sessions of the memorable Assembly, that 
presented to the world our grand old " Confession 
of Faith ! " 

How many of England's greatest warriors, 
statesmen, poets, were borne along these aisles to 
solemn burial. By how many strange voices has 
the mass been chanted, and the service-book read 
beneath this vaulted roof. And what numbers of 



190 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

God's elect, — -saintly men and women, — have here 
knelt in prayer, or united in the glad responses ! 

And what changes political and ecclesiastical ; 
what struggles for supremacy on the part of diverse 
races and hostile clans ; what battle fields red with 
the blood of Saxon, Norman, and English ; what 
establishing and overthrowing of dynasties ; and 
what improvement in the moral and physical con- 
dition of the people of England, have the watch- 
men on the walls of this Zion beheld, from the 
days of Henry III. to those of Victoria I ! 

But now the twilight fadeth into darkness, and 
we must depart. A solemn silence reigns over all. 
In passing along the nave, these erect statues, in 
striking attitudes and flowing marble robes, seem 
to beckon us with their uplifted hands. We ex- 
perience strange emotions in presence of such a 
scene ; and stepping over the threshold, cease com- 
muning with the dead, and again look upon and 
mingle with the living. 

The Sabbath afternoon services at Westminster 
Abbey, are well attended. The choir and tran- 
septs are crowded. Tourists from all quarters, 
come to hear the eloquent Dean Stanley. And 
during the '' season,'' the audience is exceedingly 
aristocratic. What " noble " men, and '' lionor- 
able'' women this afternoon occupy these cathe- 
■ dral stalls ! Here, during the sessions of Parlia- 



SERVICES. 191 

ment, the ^'lords'' of earth worship the Lord of 
Heaven. 

The scene indeed is strange and striking. All 
around are the tombs of the departed. Close beside 
us are the statues of the immortal dead. From 
the stained glass windows, Moses, Aaron, and the 
Patriarchs, look benignantly down upon the wor- 
shipping assembly. A charming life-size portrait 
of the Queen, smiles upon us from the chancel. 
Clergymen robed ^' in spotless white," read from 
the desk, w^hile the distant aisles, and lofty arches, 
resound with the responses of organ and choir* 
The Dean is not present to-day ; but a " Canon" 
discourses on Christian benevolence. The sermon 
is simple, earnest, evangelical. Whether he be a 
broad-churchman or not, there is certainly a broad 
charity inculcated. Would that all the sacred cita- 
dels ofEngland were defended by just such *'Canon" ! 

Mr, Spurgeon^s Tabernacle, is on the south side 
of the Thames. Externally it has very little to 
excite admiration. Strangers w^ould never regard 
it as a church edifice. It is 145 feet long, 81 
broad, 62 high, and cost $150,000. We arrive in 
time to inspect the Sabbath-school, and attend 
the morning prayer-meeting. The superintendent 
is a pleasant, genial Englishman. The majority 
of the teachers are young, and seem thoroughly 
in earnest. In the infant department we find just 



192 WA.NDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

fifty small men and little women. The teacher 
seems well-adapted for the work of "juvenile'' in- 
struction ; and by suitable questions enables the 
" little ones " to give the stranger some informa- 
tion respecting the Sabbath school lesson. 

The walls of the school-rooms are decorated 
with beautiful and appropriate Scripture mottoe?. 
The entire service is conducted in a quiet, yet 
earnest manner. There is no attempt at " display." 
There are no " striking '' portraits grinning on 
the black-board ; no representations of human 
hearts in red, white, and blue chalk. And the 
hymn-books are not "just issued!" They are 
welhthumbed ; contain many of those Christian 
songs sung for generations ; and are remarkably 
free from jingling nonsense. The tunes are also 
appropriate. The children in singing, are wor- 
shiping and not waltzing. In all parts of the 
service, there is a simplicity, a sincerity, an earn- 
estness, that is both beautiful and impressive. A 
morning prayer-meeting is held, just before the 
preaching service. It is conducted by a very 
plain-looking individual, who enjoins the brethren 
to be " prompt and brief" The number present, 
— of both sexes, — is quite large, the singing 
spirited, and the prayers tender and beseeching. 
What prayers are offered for a blessing upon the 
Pastor, — just about to enter the pulpit ! We have 



NEVER IN TIME. SINGING. SERMON. 193 

never listened to such pleadings for a blessing upon 
the labors of any preacher. And may not this be 
the secret of Spurgeon^s marvelous success ? 

The church is well-filled when the service be- 
gins. And yet many come late. Some people 
are always lagging behind, but are especially slow 
in attending the church. But the preacher is 
prompt, and the service is conducted in the follow- 
ing order : — Invocation ; hymn beginning, '^ God 
in His Church is known ; " Scripture reading, and 
exposition ; hymn ^' I'm not ashamed to own my 
Lord;'' prayer occupying about 12 minutes; 
church notices ; sermon ; hymn : — 

" Leave thee — never ! 
Where for safety could I go ? " 

benediction. 

The Tabernacle is elliptical in form, and two 
deep galleries run round the interior of the build- 
ing. The preacher stands upon a raised platform, 
nearly on a plane with the lower gallery. He 
thus commands the audience, and the audience 
commands him. The congregation bow in prayer, 
and stand in singing. Upon the reading of a 
hymn, the tune to which it is sung, is announced. 
If the singing is slow or spiritless, the preacher 
urges the people to " sing more quickly and joy- 
ously brethren ! " And the response, from the 



194 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

5,000, or 6,000, is hearty and inspiring. The 
great majority of the people are shop-keepers, me- 
chanics, laboring men ; and the galleries are 
crowded with the yonng of both sexes. In the 
pews, immediately in front of the preacher, there 
are a number of plump, sleek, well-dressed men 
and women, who might be numbered among the 
wealthy. And when the service is concluded a 
few of the worshipers are carried homeward in 
stylish conveyances. 

Mr. Spurgeon is a short thick-set man. There 
is nothing in his appearance to indicate his power. 
He looks as unlike the stereotyped ecclesiastic, as 
the exterior of the Tabernacle looks unlike a modern 
church edifice. He has the manner of a business 
man ; is quick in his movements ; mirthful and 
mirth-provoking : and really appears like a big, 
well-fed, overgrown boy. But what a voice ; 
what fluency of speech and lofty eloquence ; what 
familiarity with Scripture and profound knowledge 
of human nature ; what convincing argument and 
thrilling appeal ; what consuming earnestness, and 
complete self-forgetfulness ! No pulpit or table 
intervenes between him and his audience. He 
stands behind the low railing that surrounds the 
platform, and addresses the immense assemblage 
with the most perfect abandon. The morning 
theme was " The Christian Afflicted ;'^ the evening 



WISE DEACONS. STINGY SAINTS. 195 

sermon discussed '^ Retribution." In the morning, 
the audience laughed and wept ; in the evening, 
there were many that trembled. 

The Tabernacle, it is said, holds 6,000, and is 
always full. Good seats are in great demand. 
The pew-holders have always the preference until 
the service begins. A somewhat worldly-wise 
policy is adopted by the " Deacons '' on the Sab- 
bath evenings. They stand at the outer gates and 
distribute small envelopes to those who are eager 
to gain admittance. These envelopes are a polite 
invitation to subscribe a "little," for the support 
of the benevolent work of the church. Those who 
thus subscribe are admitted to the interior of the 
building, and have the choice of the unoccupied 
seats when the service commences. And yet some 
will not subscribe ! Not even a choice seat in the 
great Metropolitan Tabernacle, with the eloquent 
Spurgeon on the platform, will induce some of 
these mean, miserly church-goers to contribute a 
single sixpence. 

They will take all, and give nothing. Others 
must pay for lighting, heating, cleaning, and re- 
pairing the building ; others must pay the pastor's 
salary, and contribute to objects of benevolence, 
but they will pay nothing. Common sense, con- 
science, would suggest that if they share in the en- 
joyments, they should share in the expenses. AYhy 



196 WANDEEINGS IN EUROPE. 

should they be so lacking in self-respect ; why 
should they be so stingy and miserly, as to allow 
others to pay their church expenses? And yet 
here they linger around the gate, waiting until 
they can march in, and take a ^' free seat." Shame 
on such delinquents, when they are able to pay ! 

Doctor Parker, represented " The Modern Pul- 
pit " at the meeting of the Evangelical Alliance 
in New York City. His new '^Temple Church" 
has just been completed, and the Doctor's reputa- 
tion attracts a large and brilliant audience. A 
front pew has been sacredly set apart in this new 
church for the use of Americans. A gentlemanly 
usher conducts us to the ^' front/' where we find 
pleasantly seated a few Yankee pilgrims, who have 
come in this morning *' from going to, and fro in 
the earth.'' 

The congregation at the " Temple" differs much 
from that assembling at the " Tabernacle." It is 
not as large, but is much more "select." The 
preachers are also quite unlike. Dr. Parker is 
undoubtedly a most eloquent preacher. He has 
one of the finest pulpit voices to which we have 
ever listened. His sermons are thoroughly ela- 
borated. He is enthusiastic ; and occasionally there 
are sudden outbursts of passionate eloquence, that 
thrill the entire audience. But he is shielded by 
a desk ; reads pretty closely ; appears self-con- 



BRILLIANT SCENE AT HYDE PARK. 197 

scious ; is somewhat affected in manner : and in 
his arguments and illustrations, is quaint and con- 
ceited. He is ecclesiastically J a * ' congregationalist ;'^ 
but we w^ould infer that in theology, and in every- 
thing else, he is pretty '^independent." To this 
brilliant metropolitan, we might address the words 
of Shakespeare : — 

" You were glad to be employed 
To show how quaint an orator you are." 

The population of London is exceedingly 
''mixed." Along these crowded thoroughfares 
walk representatives of every nation on the globe, 
and of every isle of the sea. And here meet the 
paupers and the princes. Wealth and poverty 
stand face to face. In the eastern districts, the 
houses are crowded, the streets are filthy, and the 
condition of the people, pitiable. But the poor 
are not forgotten. $20,000,000 are expended an- 
nually, in aiding the distrest. Some of the wealthy 
Londoners, following in the footsteps of Peabody, 
are erecting " improved dwellings." Others are 
employing the missionary, the tract distributor, 
and providing places of worship. And yet in this 
city of millions, " the harvest truly is great, but 
the laborers are few." 

Around Hyde Park, and along "Eotten Row," 
the scene at 3 or 4 o'clock in the afternoon is ex- 
ceedingly brilliant. The magnificent and costly 



198 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

equipages ; the prancing steeds gaily caparisoned ; 
the princes, dukes, and lords, arrayed in richest 
garb ; the liveried coachmen, with silver-clasped 
shoes, silken stockings, velvet breeches, scarlet 
vests, gorgeously glittering coats, and silken hats 
ornamented with flashing cockades : what a spec- 
tacle to look upon, on a lovely afternoon in the 
month of June ! 

Rotten Row, is set apart for the equestrians. 
Here, the finest saddle-horses in the world, 
mounted by the most graceful riders of both sexes, 
canter and gallop, watched by hundreds and thou- 
sands of admiring spectators. The coaches move 
along 5 and 6 abreast ; and the saddle-horses come 
pacing down the ^' Row " 8 and 10 in a line, whip- 
ped and spurred by the '^ beautiful contestants." 

The signs over the doors of the " shops '' are 
somewhat amusing, and instructive. The pro- 
prietors, with an eye to business, inform the 
vulgar public of their royal or noble patrons. 
This man is '^ confectioner to the Queen," or 
" stationer to the Prince of Wales," or " draper to 
His Royal Highness the Duke of Cambridge;" 
and this woman is "patronized by the Royal 
Family." They appreciate good customers. 

The English people treat us very kindly ; and 
although occasionally boastful, are nevertheless 
very agreeable companions. In dress, they diflfer 



PUFFY CHEEKS. BOOZY BRITONS. 199 

in some respects from Americans. They prefer 
comfort, to fashion. Their garments are somewhat 
loose, and lacking in " style. ^' Boots and shoes 
are large and strong. Paper soles, and high heels, 
are not the most popular. The ladies never waste 
time in pushing a large foot into a Chinese boot. 
They walk on their feet, and not on their toes, 
even at the risk of beino^ laro^e-footed. 

The English, — like the Irish and Scotch, — have 
their national beverage. They drink porter and 
ale. And the amount of these liquids swallowed 
daily by an average-sized drayman, is surprising. 
At an outdoor festival, where the laboring classes 
meet to spend a "holiday,'' the drinking scenes 
are novel and amusing. A dozen men sit around 
a table ; a stone jug holding nearly a gallon is 
placed before them filled with the frothy fluid ; and 
this is seized wdth both hands by each of the party 
in succession, until its contents is poured down 
the thirsty throats of these boozy Britons. Tumb- 
lers and goblets they despise. And the spectacle 
of a bulky little Englishman with puffy cheeks 
and scarlet nose, hoisting this foaming gallon mea- 
sure to his giddy head, w^ould be ludicrous if it 
"were not sad. Porter and ale are not so intensely 
stimulating as Irish and Scotch whisky ; but these 
English topers are as round as the barrels they 
have emptied, and smell very much like them. 



200 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

Before bidding good-bye to London, and leaving 
for the Continent, we may state that the charges, — 
in hotels and boarding-houses, or on railroads, are 
by no means excessive. The railroad coaches are 
similar, in pattern and style, to those already de- 
scribed. There are three classes of cars, — first, 
second, and third. By act of Parliament the 
charges are as follows: — 1st class cars per mile 6 
cents ; 2nd class, 4 J cents ; 3rd class 3 cents. Only 
the very wealthy travel in the 1 st class. There are 
also what are termed the " Parliamentary trains.'' 
By act of Parliament, railroad companies are 
obliged to run two daily trains over their respec- 
tive roads, at a charge of 2 cents a mile. We have 
traveled over the country on these trains at a high 
rate of speed, rejoicing in the reduced fare, and 
thanking Providence that there were some legisla- 
tures that could not be bought, by conscienceless 
corporations. 

"High life" in London, has been enjoyed at 
a moderate expense. We have a nicely furnished 
room, the privilege of a beautiful parlor, the Lon- 
don daily papers, and the society of a most refined 
company of guests. We rejoice every day over 
the choicest cutlets, the juiciest steaks, and the most 
delicious soups. After rushing through tunnels, 
climbing towers, exploring docks, traversing 
parks, inspecting museums, wandering through li- 



FOOD. EXPENSES. LONDON SABBATH. 201 

braries, listening to wrangling lawyers and debat- 
ing ^'Commoners/' and walking a dozen miles 
through winding streets, — how the '^ebbing" life 
of the tourist is changed into a " full-tide ^^ of 
physical vitality, by a dish of nutritious English 
mutton broth ! This we have tested and found to 
be an unfailing stimulant. 

But what are the charges per week for these rare 
privileges ? Why just ten dollars a week ! But this 
is the result of close study and careful planning. 

The Sabbath day in London is remarkably 
quiet. God, by the Sabbath day, lays His hand 
upon the throbbing heart of the great metropolis, 
— and behold how still ! The libraries, art galle- 
ries, museums, and places of business, are all closed. 

How grand is London, — with her docks crowd- 
ed with shipping ; her merchant princes controlling 
the world's commerce ; her bankers shaping the 
financial policy of kings ; her Parliament debating 
questions affecting the interests of hundreds of 
millions on distant continents ! But how beauti- 
ful is London, when in obedience to the voice of 
God, business ceases, quiet reigns, the church bells 
invite to worship, and from temples dedicated to 
the Most High, prayer and praise ascend to 
Heaven ! Love for law human and divine, — this 
is England's glory. May Britannia never cease to 
rule the waves ! 
9 



CHAPTER IX. 



BELGIUM. ANTWERP. BRUSSELS. 



Leaving London in the afternoon, we go direct 
to Antwerp. The train carries us to Harwich ; 
and from Harwich the steamer conveys us over 
the German Ocean, and up the Scheldt, to this 
Belgic city, Dutch galleys, Avith red and white 
sails, and yellow painted rudders, are floating on 
the river, while from the distant banks, the re- 
volving vanes of towering windmills seem to 
beckon us ashore. A number of ships are resting 
in the harbor, and great activity prevails along 
the wharves. But here comes that cruel ''custom- 
house officer." Our innocent valise is turned in- 
side out, and every article carefully examined. 
We protest in vigorous English, but without the 
slightest eflect. This faithful official replies to all 
our protests and inquiries, in a language that, in 
our ears, sounds like a mixture of French and 
Dutch. In all our linguistic studies ; in all our 
rambles through the German and French " quar- 
ters" in London, we never heard or read anything 
202 



DOG WAGO^'S. DRESS. CATHEDRAL. 203 

that could compare with this gentleman's lan- 
guage. If all the Belgians talk in this manner, 
our progress through this most populous little 
kingdom must indeed be slow. 

In Antwerp, the houses are built of stone and 
brick, and the streets are paved with Belgic blocks. 
In the wide avenues are pretty booths, w^here 
jewelry and various '' notions/^ arc sold at very 
tempting prices. The people dress somewhat 
picturesquely. Clog shoes rattle along the pave- 
ment. Old men wear woolen hose of three dif- 
ferent colors, — blue, red, and striped. The women 
pace the streets proud of their purple petticoats. 
A new mode of conveyance greets the eye, — the 
dog wagon. Yonder is a sturdy dog pulling a 
lazy woman ! The sight is ludicrous. The hus- 
band leads the dog, and the wife sits in the 
w^agon ! 

The cathedral steeple is 416 feet high, and 
by climbing 616 steps we reach the summit. The 
view is magnificent. The city, the river, the 
dykes, and the country for scores of miles, are 
clearly seen. This Cathedral has a chime of 40 
bells. And while in the steeple we have the 
pleasure of listening to the " chiming of thebells.'^ 
They chime every quarter of an hour. The 
smallest bell weighs 40 lb. ; the largest 12,000 lb. 
It requires 16 men to ring the latter. In this 



20 i WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

city Rubens was born, and in the Cathedral may 
be seen one of his masterpieces; — '' The Descent 
from the Cross.'^ It is a wonderful painting. The 
grouping, posturing and coloring, give such an 
appearance of reality, that we, almost, expect to 
see the figures move. How the figure of " the 
dead Christ/' contrasts with the forms of those 
who stand around the cross ! In some of these 
churches, the altar and pulpit decorations, are 
costly and beautiful. The polished black, white 
and red marbles, shine like mirrors. And the 
organs are embellished with representations of 
cherubs and angels, holding violins, trumpets, and 
harps. These carvings in walnut, are of exquisite 
workmanship. 

From Antwerp to Brussels, is a pleasant ride 
through a charming country. There are no 
hedges, or fences. Long rows of elms and pop- 
lars, mark the boundaries of fields, or farms. 
Men and women are toiling in the meadows. 
Some swing the scythe ; others rake the hay, and 
pile it on the waiting wagons. The crops look 
beautiful. 

Brussels is the pride of the Belgians. It has 
magnificent promenades; charming parks, orna- 
mented with statues and fountains: and some 
large and imposing edifices. This being Saturday 
evening the streets are crowded, and the shops 



BEER GARDENS. SUNDAY DOG MARKET. 205 

brilliantly illuminated. The Belgians appear to 
be fond of beer, — and the drinking is done in pub- 
lic. The open paved squares are transformed into 
bar rooms and beer gardens. Long lines of small 
marble-topped tables are surrounded by men and 
women, who sit chatting and drinking with the 
most absolute freedom. Here are hundreds of 
husbands and wives, emptying their wine and 
beer glasses with wonderful rapidity. Clouds of 
segar smoke hang heavily over these increasingly 
talkative, and occasionally belligerent tipplers. 
And here sit women apart by themselves, holding 
a high debate over the sparkling wine glass, or 
foaming beer mug ! And all this along a public 
highway ! We have seen women enter public 
houses in England, Ireland, and Scotland ; but 
never have we seen the most degraded touch the 
beverage in an open square, in full view of the 
public. And these Belgic women are well dressed, 
haughty in manner, and really seem proud of 
their evening occupation. 

The Sabbath day in Brussels is not a holyday. 
It is simply a holiday. The shops, stores, and. 
taverns are open. The marketplaces are thronged. 
Bands of music, followed by crowds of men and 
women, parade through the streets. And the dog 
market is well attended ! In attempting to reach 
the English Church, ^Ye are shocked by these 



206 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

scenes of Sabbath desecration. The dog market is 
to us, quite a new institution. And yet in wind- 
ing through a crooked street, we are suddenly 
confronted by this Continental method of keeping 
holy the Sabbath day. Here scores of dogs, of all 
sizes, colors, and breeds, are being sold and 
bought. They are held by cords tied round the 
neck, — and the larger number are exhibited by 
women ! How they leap, yelp, bark and bite ! 
And here are pups in baskets, carried by children 
who rock to sleep the troublesome curs, by swing- 
ing the baskets ! This is the kind of Sunday- 
school these little boys and girls are trained to at- 
tend. Is not the spectacle a sad one? 

In returning from the Episcopal Church, the 
route leads us past several of the Roman Catholic 
places of worship. The attendance is not large. 
In some of the churches the priests are giving in- 
struction to the children. Here and there in dif- 
ferent parts of the building, groups of boys and 
girls surround the monk or priest, and are being 
carefully catechised. But how cold and formal do 
these instructions appear ! And the children act 
and answer as if they were under an unpleasant 
restraint. They may occasionally move an elbow, 
or indulge in a smile ; but by a sudden shake of 
that closely shaven head, or a frown of that beard- 
less face, order is quickly restored. 



BRUSSELS LACE. BATTLE OF WATERLOO. 207 

The Palace of King Leopold is carefully guarded 
by Belgic soldiers. They are sturdy men ; and 
as they pace the Palace Court dressed in scarlet 
breeches, and dark-green coats with yellow facings, 
attract considerable attention. 

The "Brussels carpet," and 'Mace/' are not 
manufactured within the city limits. These cel- 
ebrated fabrics, are spun and woven in the neigh- 
boring towns. A young merchant informs us that 
the laces are manufactured principally in the nun- 
neries, or in schools controlled and managed by 
the nuns. The young women receive as com- 
pensation, tuition and board. 



" There was a sound of revelry by night ; 

And Belgium's capital had gathered then 
Her beauty, and her chivalry ; and bright 

The lamps^shone o'er fair women and brave men ; 
And all went merry as a marriage-bell. — 

But hush ! hark ! a deep sound strikes like a rising knell I 
And nearer, clearer, deadlier than before ! 

Arm ! arm ! it is — it is the cannon's opening roar ! 

And there was mounting in hot haste ; the steed, 

The mustering squadron, and the clattering car, 
Went pouring forward with impetuous speed, 

And swiftly forming in the ranks of war ; 
And the deep thunder peal on peal afar : 

And near the beat of the alarming drum 
Konsed up the soldier ere the morning star ; 

While thronged the citizens with terror dumb." 



208 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

Waterloo, is not far distant from '' Belgium's 
capital/^ and an early morning train conveys us 
to this scene of mortal strife. The "Hotel du 
Miisee/' stands on the battle-field ; and while en- 
joying an excellent breakfast we chat pleasantly 
with the proprietor, who imparts considerable in- 
formation respecting Wellington and Napoleon. 
In the Museum — posted on the wall,— is Napo- 
leon's address to his "soldiers!" Here also the 
silver spurs, and the cross of the "Legion of 
Honor," worn by the Emperor on the battle-field, 
are exhibited. 

A mound or monument, erected by the Belgians 
and the Dutch, affords a fine view of this scene of 
strife. This monument is 500 yards round the 
base, and 200 feet high. It is composed of earthy 
matter, mingled with the remains of the soldiers 
who fell on either side, during that memorable 
engagement. In its erection 200 men were em- 
ployed for a space of three years ; and the cost 
was nearly $1,000,000. 

226 steps lead to the summit, which is crowned 
by a " Belgic lion." We are quite fortunate in 
our guide. He is nearly 80 years of age ; was 
born on the soil ; and was present at the battle. 
And from this elevated position, standing upon 
the accumulated remains of slaughtered heroes, we 
view these valleys and plains over and through 



WATERLOO MONUMENT. WELLINGTON. 209 

which, 60 years ago, sabres flashed, and cannon 
thundered. 

Our guide points out the position occupied by 
Napoleon, and the '^Iron Duke;^' the order of 
battle array; the extent of the opposing ^' lines;" 
the valley lying between the embattled hosts; and 
the distant village through which Blucher marched 
in attacking the French. And here, close by the 
monument, the '^Imperial Guard" was shattered 
and victory won, .by the uprising '^ Grenadiers.'^ 

But to-day, no flag floats; no bugle sounds; 
and no sword glitters over the peaceful plain. 
The grass weaves, the crops grow, and the flowers 
bloom, as if ^^ Waterloo" had never been fought! 




CHAPTER X. 

GERMANY. — AIX LA CHAPELLE. 

Aix LA Chapelle is the first German city 
visited. The route from Brussels leads through 
Louvain, Liege, Verviers, and the distance is about 
100 miles. Aix is situated in a valley, surrounded 
by gently sloping hills, has a population of 73,000, 
and is famous as the birth-place, and the burial- 
place of the Emperor Charlemagne. He died in 
this city in 814. And here also 37 of the kings 
of Germany were crowned, from 814 to 1531. 

Wooden representations of the crucifixion are 
erected at the street corners ; and in the evenings 
these crooked streets are crowded with jostling 
Germans. Along the winding thoroughfares, rival 
merchants present their wares, with violent gestures 
and deafening shouts. Yonder, an auctioneer 
thunders in the ears of a gaping crowd of lion- 
headed men. On the opposite side stands a tall 
muscular feminine praising her tin merchandize, 
and dazzling the eyes of licr customers, by turning 
210 



STREET SCENES, MARKETS. SPRINGS. 211 

the blazing jets on the shining tin. And here are 
groups of men and boys surrounding the '^ wheel 
of fortune/' and risking a kreutzer on a chance 
for a big brown cake. After dark the whole town 
seems to be in motion. We are surprised and 
delighted. The spectacle is amusing^ and we en- 
joy it exceedingly. 

In the early morning the market place is visited. 
Here are railk-wagons holding 5 or 6 prettily- 
painted cans, drawn by dogs. And yonder tremb- 
ling in the traces, is a fine mastiff, — with shapely 
limbs, noble bearing, and head like a German 
professor, — while behind him stands a wagon con- 
taining about a hundred heads of cabbage; all, 
— we presume — to be converted into the most de- 
licious saur-krout. The cows are also harnessed, 
and come toiling up the hill wheeling heavy 
burdens. Upon a pedestal in the market-place, 
looking calmly down upon the bustling crowd, is 
a bronze statue of Charlemagne. A sceptre is 
held in the right hand, while the left holds a globe 
and a cross. 

Aix la Chapelle, since the days of the Romans, 
has been famous for its " Springs.'^ In a lovely 
garden intersected by winding flower-bordered 
paths, shaded by stately trees, we find aristocratic 
Teutons taking their morning *^ bitters." They 
walk and drink, and drink and walk to the ^harm- 



212 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

ing music discoursed by a well-trained band. 
These mineral waters are warm, and are sipped as 
they come steaming from the bubbling fountain. 

The Munster, or ^^ Dome/^ is an interesting 
edifice. We enter during the morning service. 
Some 300 or 400 children are in attendance. The 
priests are chanting in the choir, and the children 
are uniting in the responses. Taking a seat in 
one of the '^stalls '^ and opening a '^ Psalm-book/^ 
we read, ^' Ad te, Domine, levavi animam meam :" 
— Unto thee, O Lord, do I lift U23 my soul. The 
words are from the 25th Psalm as translated in the 
Latin Vulgate. And how musically do these 
Psalms in Latin sound, when chanted by these 
German ecclesiastics ! 

This Mlinster is said to be the oldest church in 
Germany. It was built, in part, by Charlemagne, 
more than 1,000 years ago, and the great monarch 
was buried under the dome. A large stone with 
the inscription ^^Carolo Magno,'' marks the place 
where he was buried, over which and suspended 
from the dome, swings a bronze chandelier, the 
gift of the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa. Fre- 
derick was called the ^^ Xerxes of the Middle 
Ages.'^ He reigned as King and Emperor of 
Germany from 1152 till 1190. And this chan- 
delier has illumined the old church for 700 



STEAXGE AND WOX^DERFUL RELICS. 213 

But the sacred " Belies ^^ iu this church constitute 
its chief attraction. Here are exhibited a lock of the 
virgin's hair ; a piece of the true cross ; Christ's 
leathern girdle; the cord that bound the rod that 
smote Christ ; a nail of the cross ; the sponge that 
was filled with vinegar ; some of the blood and 
bones of St Stephen ; some manna from the wil- 
derness ; a few bits of Aaron's rod. These are 
presented as all genuine. And upon these sacred 
relics the Emperors of Germany swore at their 
coronation ! 

The *' Grand Belies/' are exhibited to vulgar 
eyes only once in seven years. They consist of 
the robe worn by the virgin at the nativity, — of 
cotton and five feet long; the swaddling clothes in 
which Jesus was wrapped, — coarse yellow cloth ; 
the cloth in which the head of John the Baptist 
was laid ; the scarf worn by our Saviour at the 
crucifixion, — marked vvith blood. 

These sacred relics were presented by the Pa- 
triarch of Jerusalem to Charlemagne, over 1000 
years ago. And from the 10th to the 24th of 
July, 1874, more than 500,000 pilgrims and relic- 
worshippers, thronged this ancient edifice and paid 
their. respects to these '' Grand Relics." 

AVe express no opinion regarding the objects 
thus exhibited. They are certainly very valu- 
able, — to the priests. Their salaries will be 



214 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

promptly paid while these '^ relics '^ remain on 
exhibition. The admission fee is quite respect- 
able. And what immense sums are collected every 
seventh year from these multitudes of pilgrims! 

In Aix la Chapelle German is universally 
spoken. In wandering through the winding 
streets, — with our eyes dazzled by the brilliant 
reflection of the sparkling jets, — we go astray. 
The crooked streets tempted us, and we followed 
on. But our position is critical, — alone, in a for- 
eign land, in a crooked city, in the dead of night, 
and everybody talking Dutch ! We pay our po- 
litest respects to a policeman, informing him of 
our ^'lost^' condition, and hinting that his ser- 
vices as guide to the " Hotel du Dragon,'^ would 
be keenly appreciated. This communication is 
made in the very best German at command, ex- 
pressed with due emphasis, proper inflexion, and 
in such a ^^sweet guttural accent.^^ In fact when 
struggling for college honors, we never recited 
Schiller, Goethe, or Burger, so forcibly or im- 
pressively, as we recite the tale of our misfortunes 
in the ear of this preserver of the peace. But 
there is no response, save an ugly shrug of that 
Dutch shoulder. We again repeat, and resorting 
to the tactics of the street merchants, suit the ac- 
tion to the word, — but still no response ! At 
length, excited beyond measure, we "lay hands" 



pen:^sylvania dutch, cologne, bones. 215 

tenderly upon what we regard as the '^stupidest 
man in creation/^ and urge a compliance with our 
request : — when lo ! he speaks, and from the very 
depths of the lowest diaphragm comes the saddening 
response in language like this, " Menchen, Ich- 
weiss nicht, w^as du sagest '' : — which being freely 
translated means, ^' My dear tourist, I do not 
understand Pennsylvania Dutch ^^ ! 

Cologne, on the banks of the Rhine, has a 
population of 150,000. The streets and side- 
walks, are narrow and rough, and do not always 
smell of "cologne." Some of the public buildings 
are stately structures, and many of the private 
residences are quite handsome. 

The Church of St. Ursula, is a strange build- 
ing, both in the manner of its erection, and the 
"relics'^ it contains. It is built, largely, of 
"human bones." The walls, partions, and 
decorations are composed, in part, of this strange 
material. A sad looking monk, devoutly leads 
us through this sepulchral church edifice, point- 
ing out the objects worthy of pious regard. Here 
are scores of skulls, tastily arranged, grinning at 
us from scores of shelves. And there are the toes, 
finger-nails, and teeth of departed saints, who died 
long, long ago. Nails of the " true" cross, and 
sundry sacred relics too valuable to be purchased, 
are pointed out to us by this simple-minded and 



216 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

tender-hearted ecclesiastic. On a centre-table^ is a 
precious casket made from '' selected portions" of 
the sainted dead. This is of exquisite workman- 
ship, sparkles with gems, and is, by all visitors, 
curiously and carefully inspected. 

But how came these bones, and skulls, these 
teeth, and toe- nails to dwell in St. Ursula? The 
explanation is very simple, — if the reader is simple 
enough to believe it. St. Ursula, a princess of 
Britain, marshaling a force of 11,000 virgins, 
migrated to this region just 1600 years ago. This 
virgin band came to unite in happy wedlock, with 
the brave British soldiers keeping watch on the 
Rhine. They were seized and cruelly murdered 
by the barbarous Huns. And to perpetuate the 
memory of their love and their suffering, these 
relics have been preserved ! An eminent anatomist 
has discovered among these ^^ remains" the bones 
of animals; and this fact leads us to suspect, that 
some little deception may have been practised by 
certain ecclesiastical architects, during the '^ dark 
ages." But may not the story of the virgins be 

true? 

The Cathedral of Cologne is a most magnificent 

structure. The foundation stone was laid in 1248, 
and the edifice is not yet quite completed. Scores 
of men are, this afternoon, hammering on the 
roof This cathedral is regarded by critics as the 



COLOGNE CATHEDRAL. MUSIC. WISE MEN. 217 

*' finest specimen of gothic architecture in Europe.'' 
It is 511 feet long, and 231 feet broad. It has 
9 aisles, 116 cloisters, 128 windows, 576 statues, 
and 5000 turrets. The south entrance has re- 
cently been completed at a cost of $500,000. On 
the walls hang ten large and costly paintings, five 
of which were presented by the King of Bavaria. 
The symmetry of this majestic edifice, is not marred 
by any of those projections or graceless ornamenta- 
tions, that so frequently disfigure similar struc- 
tures. The harmony is complete. 

At three o'clock in the afternoon we enter the 
building. The organ is being played by some 
master-hand. And the music, — how sweet, sol- 
emn, sublime! On a sultry afternoon, wearied by 
excessive walking, how restful to the body, and 
inspiring to the soul, to sit in this temple and 
listen to this music ! 

But are there no " relics " on exhibition ? Yes, 
quite a variety. No building could survive for 
600 years along the banks of the Rhine, if it were 
not guarded by the sacred dust of some departed 
saints. The sacristan informs the traveler, that in 
the rear of the high altar, the "Wise men from the 
east" lie sleeping! By what strange star their 
wandering footsteps were guided hither, we are not 
informed. Certainly they showed " wisdom " in the 
selection of their last resting-place. And as it re- 



218 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

quires the jingling of several German coins to 
awaken these sleeping ones, we will not disturb 
their repose. May they rest in peace ! 

By the payment of an admission fee, we are 
permitted to climb to the roof, look upon the 
statues and turrets, and gaze upon the gently- 
flowing Rhine. The prospect is delightful ; and 
from these airy summits we return refreshed. 

Before departing for Bonn, we visit Joh. Mar. 
Farina, No. 10 Wallrafsplatz. This gentleman 
claims to be the ^^ original manufacturer^' of Co- 
logne water. His store is a model of neatness; 
and upon entering, 

''Meseemed I smelt a garden of sweet flowers, 
That dainty odors from them threw around." 

Two or three flasks of the "original article '^ are 
pushed into our valise; and we leave the city, 
smelling sweeter than the violet or the rose. 

Bonn is beautifully situated on the left bank of 
the Rhine. The streets are narrow, paved with 
rough stone, — and many of them* have no side- 
walks. Some of the houses are very neat ; and a 
few wide streets furnish the "aristocrats" ample 
room for promenading. The University is visited. 
The buildings form a "quadrangle;" and as the 
hour for recitation arrives, the students march to 
their respective class-rooms. They are a lively 



BONN UNIVERSITY. LIBRARY. PERIODICALS. 219 

set of '^fellows;'' wear hats of various colors, but 
are not gowned. Following in the footsteps of an 
agreeable young German, we find ourselves seated 
in the class-room, and listening to Professor Schultz. 
The topic of the morning lecture is the ^^ German 
Rebellion.'^ His manner is earnest; style lucid; 
and by the frequent flashings of his piercing eyes, 
a stranger would infer that sometimes even the 
students at Bonn mio;ht be " rebellious." The li- 
brary building is 504 feet long, and for the privi- 
lege of inspecting it we pay five silbergroshen, — • 
equal to 12 cents. The room is ornamented with 
busts of Luther, Melancthon, and other famous 
men. On the tables lie 200 periodicals, printed 
in different languages. Some of these are specially 
devoted to the discussion of particular subjects, — 
History, Philosophy, Geography, Philology. In 
counting and examining these 200 current publi- 
cations, — coming from all parts of the world, and 
representing every school of science, philosophy, and 
religion, — how many do we find representing 
America? Only one ! ^^The Journal of Science.^' 
Is this the esteem in which the great ^' Republic 
of America '^ is held, by this German University? 
Where is the " North American," the ^^ Bibliotheca 
Sacra,'' or our own orthodox '^ Princeton?" 

Prince Al])ert was a student at Bonn ; and 
some of the musical compositions of Mendelssohn 



220 WANDEEINGS IN EUROPE. 

in manuscript, are pointed out by the librarian. 
Several of the present Professors are well known 
in America. Lange, the distinguished Commen- 
tator gives instruction in Theology; and Christ- 
lieb, whose brilliant essay on *^ Modern Doubt/^ 
so thrilled the Evangelical Alliance in New York 
city, is also a Professor. We should like to linger 
and form their acquaintance, but the shrill whistle 
of the steamboat, summons us to the wharf to take 
passage up the Rhine. 

The JRhine, is famous in history, legend, and 
song. It is the pride of the Germans. And those 
who have listened to the '^ Watch on the Rhine," 
know what enthusiasm that song excites, among 
those who love the dear old " Yaterland." The 
Rhine has its rise in the Alps, and rolls onward to 
the sea. The waters from 370 glaciers, and 2700 
larger and smaller streams, unite in forming this 
majestic river. It is not uniform in width or 
depth. At Mentz, it is over 1500 yards wide, 
while at Basle the width is only 500. In depth 
it varies from 10, to 200 feet. In its march it 
sweeps past Basle, Mentz, Bingen, Coblentz, Bonn, 
and Cologne. Along its banks the vine is culti- 
vated. And the sloping hillsides are, for scores of 
miles, covered with smiling vineyards, while the 
shining summits are crowned with hoary ruins, — 
where in ages past dwelt the " robbers of the 



THE KHINE. YIXE CLAD HILLS. EUINS. 221 

Rhine." The frequent and sudden bends in the 
course of the river, — revealing at each curve new 
scenes of beauty, — form a succession of delightful 
surprises, and keep the admiring tourist continu- 
ally on the alert. 

Here indeed, looking from the ample deck of 
our stately steamer, we behold 

" A blending of all beauties, streams and dells, 
Fruit, foliage, crag, wood, corn-field, mountain, vine, 
And chiefless castles breathing stern farewells 
From gray but leafy walls, where ruin greenly dwells." 

These monuments of the past, those castle-ruins, 
appear so lonely, and yet so proud ! 

"And there they stand, as stands a lofty mind. 
Worn, but unstooping to the baser crowd, 
All tenantless, save to the crannying wind. 
Or holding dark communion with the cloud. 
There was a day when they were young and proud. 
Banners on high, and battles pass'd below. 
But they who fought are in a bloody shroud, 
And those who waved are shredless dust ere now, 
And the black battlements shall bear no future blow. 
Beneath these battlements, within those walls,^ 
Power dwelt amidst her passions; in proud state 
Each robber chief upheld his armed halls. 
Doing his evil will, nor less elate 
Than mighty heroes of a longer date." 

What fierce contests by rival Barons were wit- 
nessed in the distant ages, along these vine-clad 
hills ! How steel-clad knights flashed over bloody 



222 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

fields, and shining spears were waved in triumph 
over the prostrate forms of fallen foes ! 

" In their baronial feuds and single fields, 
What deeds of prowess unrecorded died ! 
And love, which lent a blazon to their shields, 
With emblems well devised by amorous pride, 
Through all the mail of iron hearts would glide ; 
And many a tower for some fair mischief won, 
Saw the discolor'd Rhine beneath its ruin run." 

Yonder is the Castle of Drachenfels, crownins: 
the highest summit of the "seven mountains. ^^ It 
was rebuilt by the Archbishop of Cologne in the 
12th century. 

'' The castled crag of Drachenfels 

Frowns o'er the wide and winding Khine, 
Whose breast of waters broadly swells 

Between the banks which bear the vine, 
And hills all rich with blossom'd trees, 

And fields which promise corn and wine, 
And scattered cities crowning these. 

Whose far white walls along them shine." 

And here^ at the confluence of the Ifosel — " The 
Pearl of German rivers" — and the Rhine, stands 
the old historic city of Coblentz. The city is 
blazing with banners; and the valley of the Rhine 
echoes this afternoon with the thundering of can- 
non. King William is paying a visit to the city. 
The Kaiser has come from Ems, a few miles dis- 
tant, and the town is as joyously excited as if 
France had been conquered the second time. This 



COLBLENZ. BIXGEX. RHINE-LAND SONG. 223 

city is strongly fortified ; and the country sur- 
rounding it is beautiful and picturesque. 

"Here Ehrenbreitstein, with her shatter'd wall, 
Black with the miner's blast, upon her height 
Yet shows of what she was, when shell and ball 
Kebounding idly on her strength did light; 
A tower of victory ! from whence the flight 
Of baffled foes was watched along the plain 
And on which the iron shower for years had pour'd in vain." 

We are now at Bingen. This town is situated 
on the left bank of the river, at the influx of the 
iS"ahe into the Rhine, and at the foot of the Rochus 
Mountain. Here we rest during the night ; and 
from the piazza of the "" Hotel Victoria/^ listen to 
the murmuring waters, and gaze upon the ruins of 
Castle Klopp. In this Castle Henry IV. was im- 
prisoned in 1105. 

How beautiful the scene this lovely evening of 
the 2nd July ! And how expressive of the feel- 
ings of a lonely maiden, is this simple Rhine-land 
song : — 

" The moon looks down upon the wave, 

And calmly flows the Rhine, 
The fisherman now spreads his nets, 

Beneath the pale moonshine ; 
I sit within ray silent room, 

And list the waves' low tone, 
I cannot mind my spinning wheel, 

For I am all alone." 

Perhaps her lover was on the distant battle field. 



224 AVANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

Was it of this maiden of BIngen, the dying soldier 
spake ? Was it to her he sent that tender mes- 
sage, ere he breathed his life away ? 

*' There's another, — not a sister ; in the happy days gone by 
You'd have known her bj the merriment that sparkled in 

her eye ; 
Too innocent for coquetry, — too fond for idle scorning, — 

friend ! I fear the lightest heart makes sometimes heavi- 

est mourning ! 

1 saw the blue Rhine sweep along ; I heard, or seemed to 

hear. 
The German songs we used to sing, in chorus sweet and 

clear ; 
And her glad blue eyes were on me, as we passed, with 

friendly talk, 
Down many a path beloved of yore, and well-remembered 

walk ! 
And her little hand lay lightly, confidingly in mine. — 
But we'll meet no more at Bingen, — loved Bingen on the 

Ehine." 

Mentz, was founded by Drusus, step-son of 
Augustus, in the year 14 B. c. It has a popula- 
tion of some 50,000, and is strongly fortified. 

The Cathedral is a stately building. It contains 
some interesting monuments, which are pointed out 
and explained to us by the ^^ sexton's " daughter. 
This maiden speaks three different languages ! — 
and appears delighted when complimented for her 
excellent English. Here is the tomb of the 
'' Sweet Singer." The sculptured marble repre- 
sents a shrouded coffin, borne upon the shoulders 



MENTZ. TOMB OF THE SWEET SINGER. 225 

of weeping women, and followed by a mournful 
procession of the " gentler sex." This poet was so 
beloved for his sweet and tender melodies, that the 
women whose hearts he won by his purity and 
pathos, carried him to the tomb, and erected the 
monument to perpetuate his memory ! 

In this town Guttenberg lived ; and on one of 
the prominent streets we find a monument descrip- 
tive of his labors, and crowned by a statue of 
this, — the first, — printer. 

But we must bid the Rhine farewell. Its wind- 
ing current, and picturesque scenery, have been 
both a surprise and delight. From Bonn to 
Mentz, 

" The river noblj foams and flows, 

The charm of this enchanted ground, 
And all its thousand turns disclose 

Some fresher beauty varying round : 
And peasant girls with deep-blue eyes, 

And hands which offer early flowers 
Walk smiling o'er this paradise; 

Above, the frequent feudal towers 
Through green leaves lift their walls of'gray, 

And many a rock which steeply lours, 
And noble arch in proud decay, 

Look on this vale of vintage-bowers." 

But the country invites us, and we must bid 
this winding stream, and those shining towers a 
sad farewell. 
10 



226 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

:^' Adieu to thee, fair Rhine ! How long delighted 

The stranger would fain linger on his way ! 
Thine is a scene alike where souls united 

Or lonely contemplation thus might stray : 
Adieu to thee again ! a vain adieu ! 

There can be no farewell to scene like thine; 
The mind is color'd by thy every hue ; 

And if reluctantly the eyes resign 
Their cherish'd gaze upon thee, lovely Rhine ! 

'Tis with the thankful glance of parting praise ; 
More mighty spots may rise — more glaring shine, 

But none unite in one attaching maze 
The brilliant, fair, and soft, — the glories of old days." 

Weishaden, is a delightful summer resort. The 
houses are large, and the streets wide and clean. 
There are a number of beautiful arcades, contain- 
ing the choicest and costliest fabrics, and the most 
brilliant ornaments. Crowds of aristocratic Ger- 
mans are marching along shaded avenues to the 
mineral springs. These healing waters are warm, 
and quite palatable ; but they are neither as 
pungent as the Saratoga '' Hathorn," nor as spark- 
ling as the ^^ Geyser/^ 

Frankfort, is an old German town, remarkable 
for narrow, crooked streets, and houses of strangest 
structure. What antiquated-looking windows 
hang over these winding stony pavements ! There 
are a few large and well-stocked bookstores. And 
yonder is the " Bourse," where Rothschild rules as 
king. Around its doors, the ^'long" and ^' short'' 



FRAISiKFORT. BOURSE. IIAILKOADS. 227 

gentlemen are already gathering. They do not 
appear in the least excited ; but look as calm and 
bright as this peaceful summer morning. Stocks, 
we presume, are " steady ;'' and the next quarterly 
dividends are "assured.^' There has been no 
" overissue " by the Darmstadt- Aschaffenburg rail- 
road ; and no "embezzlement" by the Treasurer 
of the Cottbus-Gorlitz. He simply went "over 
the line " to visit a sick stepmother, and intends 
returning from Stuttgart, at a "convenient" 
season. The traffic on the Deutz-Barmen-Hagen- 
Soest has been much increased by the " Centen- 
nial " at Alten Hundern. The "immense'* 
number of heavy Germans who were carried by 
weight, has relieved it from "temporary embar- 
rassment," and placed it in a "sound financial 
condition." The "equipment" of the Eydt- 
knahnen-Konigsberg-Bromberg is in " first-class 
order;" and the " discrepancy '^ in the cash ac- 
count was due to a "slight mistake^' in charging 
a certain amount to " construction," instead of to 
"current expenses." There may be some little 
anxiety respecting the "actual condition " of the 
Frauzensfeste-Yillach-Marburg road, but by the 
skilful management of a few "leading directors," 
the stockholders will not "eventually" suffer loss. 
The well-known ability of these gentlemen to 
"borrow'^ on large interest, assures the owners 
that the " next quarterly " will be forthcoming. 



228 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

The large amount of real estate owned by the 
Regensburg-Schwan'dof-Eger, although '' unpro- 
ductive '' at present, will in the course of twenty 
years be a most *' profitable investment." This 
valuable property consisting of mountains and 
mines, which cannot be easily stolen, and can 
only be sold at a great "sacrifice/' is considered 
by competent judges a good '^permanent" invest- 
ment. Surely, with such a happy and " prosper- 
ous '* state of affairs reported in the editorial 
columns of the '^ Blatherskite,^' and other ^' trust- 
worthy " journals who have just received their in- 
formation from "headquarters," the "investing 
public" should neither be "alarmed," nor 
" scared " by the deep growling of German 
"bears." And hence the calmness, and serenity, 
of these phlegmatic financiers. 

A few of the streets in Frankfort are straight 
and wide ; there are some very pleasant pro- 
menades, and many stately buildings. Here 
Goethe was born in 1749 ; and a beautiful monu- 
ment to his memory stands quite conspicuous on a 
leading thoroughfare. 

Darmstadt, is visited in journeying to Worms. 
The Ducal Palace, surrounded by groves and 
gardens, and guarded by watchful soldiers, is the 
charming residence of a local prince. Ludwig's 
monument challenges inspection. The streets are, 
— many of them, — wide and treeless. 



LUTKER. DIET OF WORMS. 229 

Worms, is associated with the name of Luther. 
In this town was held the celebrated "Diet/' 
before which this reformer appeared. This Diet 
was, in accordance with the '' Golden Bull '^ of 
Pope Leo, convoked to meet at Worms on the 6th 
of January 152L This "solemn" assemblage 
was composed of "electors, dukes, archbishops, 
landgraves, margraves, counts, bishops, barons;" 
and the ^'ambassadors " of the kings of Christen- 
dom. Some of these distinguished men came to 
Worms, as warriors march to a scene of strife. 
Philip of Hesse, enters the town surrounded by 
600 horsemen ! Charles Y. by the ^' grace of 
God Emperor elect of the Romans, always august, 
King of Spain, of the Two Sicilies, of Jerusalem, 
of Hungary, of Dalmatia and of Croatia, Arch- 
duke of Austria, Duke of Burgundy, Count of 
Hapsburg, of Flanders, and of the Tyrol,'^ presided 
over the deliberations of the Diet. And before 
this august body Luther was commanded to ap- 
pear. What would be his fate none but the Om- 
niscient knew. His friends remonstrated ; they 
urged him to remain away lest his life should be 
forfeited. But this brave man responded to the 
tender appeals of the people of Eisenach in the 
following language: — " Though they should kindle 
a fire all the way from Worms to Wittemberg, the 
flames of which reached to heaven, I would walk 



230 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

through it in the name of the Lord ; I would ap- 
pear before them ; I would enter the jaws of this 
behemoth, and break his teeth, confessing the 
Lord Jesus Christ." To the entreaties of dear 
friends at Frankfort, he replies, " but Christ lives, 
and I shall enter Worms in despite of all the gates 
of hell." Before he arrived at Worms, a special 
messenger sent by the chaplain, urges him not to 
enter ; but Luther sends back the answer : — '^ Go 
and tell your master, that even should there be as 
many devils in Worms as tiles on the housetops, 
still I would enter it V 

What sublime courage had this humble monk, 
who was regarded by his friends as marching to 
martyrdom ! And with what interest we look 
upon the ruins of the old building, in which 
Luther made his defence in presence of that 
august assemblage. And here are the old tiled 
houses, that have watched the flight of centuries, 
and sheltered the ^'delegates to this German 
General Assembly.'' 

Luther's Monument, is well conceived, and ad- 
mirably executed. The substructure is of granite, 
42 feet on each side. Three sides are inclosed by 
battlemented walls, of polished syenite, three and 
five feet high. At the four corners, on pedestals eight 
feQt high, are the statues of Melancthon, Reuchlin, 
Frederick the Wise, and Philip the Magnani- 



HEIDELBERG. 231 

mous. On the inner faces of the battlements, are 
the arms of the 24 cities which fought for the Re- 
formation. In the centre of this enclosure are four 
pillars, on which are the statues of Wicliffe, 
Huss, Waldus, and Savonarola ; while on a pedes- 
tal 28 feet high, in the centre of this inner group, 
stands the bronze statue of Luther, — nearly twelve 
feet in height. In front we read the words : 
" Here I stand. I cannot retract. God help me, 
Amen V^ There are a number of finely executed 
bas-reliefs illustrating memorable scenes in the life 
of the Reformer. The inhabitants of Worms look 
with pride upon this noble monument; and the 
" guardian " of the premises, points out the various 
ornamentations with a sparkling eye. 

Heidelberg, — between the hills, — is a charming 
town. Such beautiful avenues, shaded by stately 
trees ! What a place for meditation, — or the quiet 
perusal of the classic page ! If we had not already 
'^completed our education," the beauties of the 
place would tempt us to matriculate. But to 
make it still '^more complete," we will this morn- 
ing '^go through" a German university. The 
buildings are old and venerable ; the recitation 
rooms somewhat dingy ; but the ^' boys " — 42 of 
whom are Americans, — seem bright and cheerful. 
We listen to some lectures ; learn something re- 
specting the methods of instruction ; and are 



232 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

vigorously '' stamped/' because we slip away be- 
fore the recitation closes. 

In the wide paved market-place the goods for 
^'sale," are arranged in parallel lines; and the 
anxious purchasers march up and down between 
these lineSj picking from the pavement the articles 
required, and paying if possible the *^ lowest 
prices." And these articles vary in size, from a 
fresh egg, to a newly skinned ox. The old Castle 
of Heidelberg overlooks the town, and by its posi- 
tion and architecture, constitutes one of the special 
attractions. 

Baden-Baden, — a fashionable summer resort, — 
is in some respects the most attractive, and allur- 
ing little city w^e have thus far visited. It is 
situated in " one of those fair vales by nature 
formed to please,'' through which, a swift shallow 
stream flowing, ^^ makes sweet music with the 
enameled stones." 

Here is the great gambling palace, Avhere in 
former days, kingdoms were lost and won. Gam- 
bling is now prohibited by law, but the palace is 
open, and may be quietly inspected. A tagesharte 
is purchased for 18 kreutzers, which admits to the 
Conversationhause, the Trinkhalle, the Spiel- 
zimmer, and affords the privilege of a Promenade- 
stUle, after we are tired marching through the 
Gebiinde. Lest in our ignorance we might make a 



BADEN-BADEX. GRAND SALOON. 233 

mistake, this card informs us that ^^Zum Besuch der 
Reunions — Balle, Klintstler-Concerte, Sonstiger 
besonderer Veranstaltungen uud Festlichkeiten, 
aussergewohnlicher Reunions und Bals pares 
berechtigt diese Karte nicht.'^ 

Thus instructed, we enter the grand hall. In 
this room, kings and princes formerly gambled. 
The floors are of oak, and smooth as polished 
marble. Large mirrors in gilt and elaborately 
carved frames, reach from the ceiling to the floor. 
Magnificent paintings decorate the walls. The 
ceiling is frescoed in the most sumptuous style. 
Luxurious couches, and gilded chairs, are artisti- 
cally arranged in shining groups. Reclining on 
one of those royal couches, and gazing upon this 
spacious hall, thus brilliantly ornamented, 

'' We dare not trust these eyes : 
They dance in mists, and dazzle with surprise." 

The most delightful music is discoursed daily, in 
presence of aristocratic audiences, by famous Ger- 
man bands. Many wealthy Americans mingle in 
these scenes, and spend restful days in these shady 
and fragrant bowers. In leaving for Strassburg, 
we meet a prominent New York banker, with 
family and servants, — passengers on the Abyssi- 
nia, — speeding to this delightful place of rest. 
Strassburg, is famous for its Cathedral, and its 
10* 



234 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

clock. The houses five stories high, have an 
ancient aspect, and by their crooked ranks, point 
back to the distant ages. How crooked people 
must have been in the *^ middle ages" to build such 
streets ! It suffered terribly during the Franco- 
Prussian war ; and is now occupied by the Ger- 
man forces. New fortifications girdle the con- 
quered city; and Krupp cannon thunder along 
the left bank of the Rhine. Large numbers of 
the French, have left the city and the surrounding 
country, since the close of the war ; but equal, or 
larger numbers of Germans have entered the con- 
quered territory during the same period. The 
population is therefore " mixed.'^ But there is no 
sympathy or fellowship, between the victors and 
the vanquished. In business, society, amuse- 
ments, they stand as far apart as possible. The 
Cathedral is a stately edifice. Hundreds of 
statues ornament the grand Gothic entrance; and 
a steeple and spire over 460 feet high, crowns the 
noble structure. The Cathedral was struck seve- 
ral times during the bombardment of the city by 
the Germans, but not seriously damaged. The 
pious sacristan points out the sacred pictures, that 
were so singularly preserved, when the walls sur- 
rounding were riddled with shot and shell. 

The clock, — placed in one of the corners of the 
Cathedral, — is a marvelous piece of mechanism. 



STRASSBURG. THE CLOCK. COSTUMES. 235 

The position and motion of the heavenly bodies ; 
the day of the week, month and year ; and other 
^'signs'' among the ^Mieavenly host^^ are most 
beautifully and strikingly presented. The quar- 
ters of the hour are struck by figures representing 
Infancy, Youth, Manhood, and Old Age. The 
hour is struck by the figure of an old man. At 
noon each day the scene is novel, and exciting. 
The figure of an old man steps forward and strikes 
the hour. The effigy of the Saviour appears 
and around it march the figures of the twelve 
apostles. Each apostolic effigy bows when passing 
the Saviour, as if in adoration, and the Saviour's 
hand is extended, as if in the act of blessing. But 
when the old man ceases striking the hour, and as 
the last apostle has bowed and been blest, a cock 
appears, flaps his wings vigorously and crows 
lustily three times ! 

The Sabbath-day in Strassburg is not religiously 
observed. In the morning, the places of business 
are all open; in the afternoon, bands of music 
parade the streets, and the lager beer gardens are 
crowded : while in the evening, the open squares 
are covered with noisy bibbers of wine and beer. 

The peasant costume is quite picturesque. Both 
men and women delight in brilliant colors. And 
how pretty they look when marching gracefully 
in pairs ! Yonder, sweetly smiling, walks a " fair 



236 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

couple/' linked apparently '^ in happy nuptial 
league/' The man wears leggins tightly but- 
toned, tightly-fitting and fancy knee-breeches, scar- 
let-colored vest, swallow-tailed coat, and low- 
crowned hat. The woman wears neatly embroidered 
slippers, garments of red, green and blue, and her 
head is crowned with a rainbow-tinted material of 
indescribable shape. And with all this " finery,'' 
there is a simplicity of manners, an absence of 
pride, that fairly captivates. 

The scenery along the railroad between Strass- 
burg and Basle is beautiful. Westward are the 
Vosges mountains; to the east is the peacefully 
flowing Rhine ; while through the fertile fields 
Alsacian peasantry, gaily dressed, toss the hay or 
gather the corn. 

Before leaving Germany and visiting Switzer- 
land, some information may be given respecting 
the railroad and hotel charges, and the manners 
and customs of the people. The railroads in Ger- 
many, are most admirably managed. The stations 
are guarded by military officers. In the depots are 
pleasant rooms for the 1st, 2nd and 3rd class pas- 
sengers. Before the arrival of trains, persons who 
have purchased tickets, are locked in these rooms, 
and are not permitted to approach the train until 
all the passengers stopping at that station have 
left the cars. Then the doors are opened, and the 



EAILROADS. HOTELS. CHARGES. 237 

various ^'classes" walk to the open cars for which 
tickets have been purchased. All rushing, — with 
the consequent disorder, and frequent accidents, — 
is thus prevented. The order is complete. 

The Germans smoke so universally, that every 
car may be called a *' smoking-car.'' And being 
" smoked out '' of the "• upper class " cars, we ride 
in the " lower class," where the smoke is not so 
dense, by reason of ** better circulation." In the 
3rd class cars, the partitions separating the com- 
partments, are only three or four feet high. Pas- 
sengers in the several compartments freely con- 
verse, and occasionally pass from one compartment 
to another. The benches are hard, but more 
agreeable on a hot day, than padded crimson 
cushions. Then Ave are under no restraintr We 
can study character ; take notes ; breathe a purer 
air; and,— well, — save a little money. One hun- 
dred miles for $1.20 is not expensive traveling. 

The hotel charges vary according to time, and 
place. At Bonn, for the privilege of sleeping in 
the largest hotel in town, one dollar is paid ; 
while at Bingen, for supper, bed and breakfast, 
the charge is $1.50. In Frankfort we sleep 
snugly between two feather beds on the night of 
the 2nd of July ! For breakfast, we have bread, 
butter, coffee or tea, and a little honey, — for which 
30 cents is paid. But not being particularly lack- 



238 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

ing in sweetness, we exchange the honey for a 
beefsteak. Hot water is placed upon the table 
to weaken the tea or coffee. What mirth would 
be excited, if some American boarding-house man- 
ager would imitate the example ! The butter is 
frequently saltless; and rarely is soap found in 
the bed-chamber. A bougie, or candle, costs 12 
cents, and occasionally two of these costly candles 
are placed upon our table, — tempting us to an 
^' illumination.^^ There are no carpets; but the 
oaken floors are smooth and shining. The hotels 
in all their arrangements, are models of neatness, 
and order. The greatest inconvenience arises from 
the numerous and curious coins that are current 
in the Empire. Just think of the florins, thalers, 
marks, kreutzers, silbergrochens, and pfennings 
that jingle in our pockets, and pity us! 




CHAPTER XI. 

SWITZERLAND. BASEL. ZURICH. 

Basel is pleasantly situated on the left bank of 
the Rhine, and is of great antiquity. It is the 
first republican city visited since leaving America. 
It has a population of some 44,000 ; a University 
founded in 1459 ; an interesting museum and 
picture gallery ; and a magnificent Protestant 
Munster. It was in this church edifice that the 
celebrated '^Council of Basel" was held in 1431. 
During the sessions of this Council, pope Eugene 
was deposed; and the 500 ecclesiastics then as- 
sembled, solemnly declared that " a general Coun- 
cil is superior to the pope.'^ Here also the 
^* Helvetic Confession '^ was composed, in 1530. 
The city, in its position, political and ecclesiastical 
history, and Protestant character, is a pleasing in- 
troduction to the land of the hardy Swiss. 

In Switzerland there are 22 Cantons united in 
a Confederacy. The population in 1870 was 2,670- 
000; of this number 1,566,000 were Protestant, 

239 



240 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

and 1^084,665 Roman Catholic. There are four 
languages, — the German/French, Italian and Ro- 
mansch, — spoken within the limits of the Con- 
federacy. *' Of every 1000 souls, 585 are Pro- 
testant and 411 Roman Catholic. Of every 1000, 
702 speak German, 226 French, 55 Italian, and 17 
Romansch. Of the 566,000 households of Switzer- 
land, 465,000 possess landed property. Of 100 
square leagues of land, 20 are pasture, 17 forest, 
11 arable, 20 meadow, 1 vineyards, and 31 uncul- 
tivated, or occupied by roads, lakes or dwellings." 

The scenery between Basel and Zurich is charm- 
ing and inspiring. The train thunders along the 
lovely valley of the Aare, and onward past Brugg, 
where the Reuss, Limmat, and Aare, — three of 
the principal rivers of Switzerland, — unite their 
streams, and rush northward to mingle with the 
Rhine. 

The joyous groups of quaintly costumed peasants; 
the neat Swiss cottages surrounded by blooming 
gardens, and smiling vineyards ; the newly mown 
meadows and fields of ripening grain ; and the 
distant hills crowned with waving woods, — how 
beautiful ! 

Zurich, is situated on the banks of the green 
and swiftly flowing Limmat, and by it divided 
into two parts. It is one of the most flourishing 
manufacturing towns in Switzerland. It has a 



LAKE OF ZURICH. THE ALPS. 241 

number of schools ; a college ; a botanic garden 
containing 800 Alpine plants ; and is regarded as 
the ^Miterary centre of German Switzerland.'^ 
Here, Zwingle, the great Swiss Reformer, lived 
and preached. His Greek Bible, with Hebrew 
annotations in his own handwriting, is preserved 
in the Town Library. 

In the Museum, we find models — and some of 
the materials used in the construction — of the Swiss 
houses, found imbedded in the peat at Roben- 
hausen. Arriving in the evening, and selecting 
the " Hotel et Pension Bellevue du Lac^' as a tem- 
porary abode, we catch the first glimpse of a Swiss 
lake. How beautiful in the moonlight is the Lake 
of Zurich ! And how the young Swiss of both 
sexes, enjoy floating upon its smooth and shining 
surface. From our chamber window, we count 
forty-four little row-boats moving hither and 
thither over these silvery waters ! And here we 
sit alone, far from home, looking down upon this 
scene of love and beauty. 

But morning comes and behold the distant 
Alps ! Yonder is the Pfannstock ; the snow-clad 
Bifertenstock ; and on either side are the lofty 
glistening peaks of those " everlasting hills.'' How 
gloriously they shine when illumined by the rising 
sun ! 



212 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

" Above me are the Alps, 
The palaces of nature, whose vast walls 
Have pinnacled clouds their snowy scalps, 
And throned eternity in icy halls 
Of cold sublimity, where forms and falls 
The avalanche — the thunderbolt of snow ! 
All that expands the spirit, yet appals, 
Gather around these summits, as to show 
How earth may pierce to heaven, yet leave man below." 

But in order to enjoy a better view of those 
snow-clad summits, we must journey towards the 
south. 

Lucerne, is a pretty little town, charmingly 
situated on the banks of the green and rapid 
Reuss, and on the margin of the lake to which it 
gives its name. The Lake of Lucerne, is regarded 
as the " Queen of Swiss Lakes.'^ It is cruciform 
in shape, and is bounded by four of the Swiss 
cantons : — Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalden, and Lu- 
cerne. The length of the lake from Lucerne to 
riuelen is 25 miles; the distance between the 
extremities of the two arms 15 miles; the width 
from one to four miles; and the greatest depth 
510 feet. It is surrounded by scenery the most 
magnificent. The lakes of Killaruey and Scot- 
land, vanish in the presence of Lucerne. 

In order to enjoy the beauty of this lake, and 
better appreciate the grandeur of the scenery, we 
purchase a ticke':, secure a pleasant position on 



LAKE OF LUCERNE. TELL. 243 

board a lively little Swiss steamer, and sail over 
the shining waters, with prow pointed towards 
Fluelen. The ticket for the round trip, — 50 
miles, — costs Q6 cents. 

Just look at those mountain sentinels that guard 
this enchanted land ! To the right, is the cloud- 
capped Pilatus over 6,000 feet high, — and pro- 
mising a bright and happy day. 

'' If Pilatus wears his cap, serene will be the day ; 
If his collar he puts on, you may venture on the way ; 
But if his sword he wields, at home you'd better stay. " 

To the left rises the Kigi,— 5,000 feet. In front 
the Buochser, the Stanzerhorn, and the Burgen- 
stock proudly lift their heads. Here, are bald and 
barren peaks ; yonder, are mountain sides clothed 
with verdure. On the right are frowning forest- 
clad hills ; on the left, are shining cottages, bloom- 
ing gardens, and fruit trees, bearing chestnuts, 
almonds, figs ! How beautiful, wild and grand ! 

The village of Gersau, with its broad-roofed 
cottages, is now in sight. Here once existed the 
smallest independent State in Europe. The small 
territory of 8 square miles, and 1,000 inhabitants, 
— guarded by the Hochfluh and the Vitznauer- 
stock, — was, during 400 years, an independent 
State ! Every mountain peak, bubbling spring 
and sparkling meadow, speaks of the heroic deeds 



244 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

of patriotic Swiss. Tell's Chapel, shaded by over- 
hanging trees, and standing on the margin of the 
lake is now in sight ; and not far distant is Altorf, 
where the Swiss liberator aimed at the apple placed 
upon his son's head, at the command of the tyrant 
Gessler. The Gitchen (8,000 feet), the Bristen- 
stock (10,000 feet), the Windgelle (10,400 feet), 
tower majestically above us. These ^' crags and 
peaks '^ witnessed both the skill and patriotism, of 
this mountain chieftain ; and to them, as the 
^' guards of liberty,'^ he might with propriety hold 
out his hands, to show they still were free. 

" Ye crags, and peaks, I'm with you once again ; 

I hold to you the hands you first beheld, 
' To show they still are free. 

Again ! O sacred forms, how proud you look! 
How high you lift your heads into the sky ! 
How huge, you are ! how mighty, and how free ! 

Ye guards of liberty 
I'm with you once again ! — I call to you 
With all my voice ! — I hold my hands to you 
To show they still are free — I rush to you 
As though I could embrace you !" 

But the ascent of the Rigi must be made, in order 
to view the Alps at sunrise. The mountain is 
5,000 feet high, and the ascent is made by railroad. 
This mountain road is, in construction and method 
of operation, similar to the road climbing Mt. 
Washington. It is 7,755 yards long; the fare to 



MT. RIGI. ALPINE HORX. SUNRISE. 245 

the summit is $1.40; and up and down these 
slanting heights 50,000 passengers are carried an- 
nually. The hotel on the mountain is a well-kept 
establishment, and furnishes an excellent supper 
and good bed for $1.40. For less comfortable 
quarters on Mt. Washington we paid $3.00. By 
special arrangement, the tourists are to be aroused 
from sleep by the "Alpine Horn.^' And faith- 
fully and honestly does this Swiss bugler fulfil 
the terms of the contract. For long ere Aurora 
with "• rosy finger opens the portals of the East,'' 
— long before " the moon began to nod, her eyes 
becoming dim,'' — did the Alpine horn begin to 
" blow." And what a '' blower !" It would seem 
that all the wind sporting around the lofty heights 
of the Rigi was marching through that horn ! 
There is, of course, great excitement. The sleep- 
ers are quickly aroused. Garments are hastily 
snatched, and shivering tourists quickly clad. A 
rush is made to the highest point; guide books are 
opened ; opera glasses properly adjusted, — and 
then, the babble begins. Rigi this morning is a 
very tower of Babel. Men and women, repre- 
senting all the world, — and some of them ^' the 
rest of mankind," — are either scolding the '^ bu- 
gler," or censuring the absent sun for tardiness in 
rising, or chattering with their teeth. But the 
sun appears : and the scene is inspiring. 



246 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

We have climbed the Alleghenies and the Berk- 
shire hills ; stood upon the summits of the Green and 
White mountains; but never witnessed such beauty, 
grandeur and sublimity combined, as the rising 
sun now reveals. The eye sweeps a circuit of 300 
miles ! Thirteen Swiss lakes sparkle in the sun- 
light ! What cities, rivers, w^oods, meadows, val- 
leys, plains, forests, emerge from the darkness, 
and greet the coming day ! But look eastward. 
What beacon lights are being kindled along the 
snow-clad Alps ! From North to South, — along 
the East, — a range of mountains 120 miles in 
length stands revealed. And along this mountain 
path 132 >peaks, from 5,000 to 13,000 feet in 
height, are clearly visible. 132 peaks shining 
along a snowy pathway of 120 miles ! 

The beacon lights kindled to herald the fall of 
the Trojan city, never flashed so quickly from 
Troy to Argos, as those Alpine heights announce 
the coming of the king of day. 

Mont Sentis, in the far East, tells it to the 
Glarnish; and theGlarnish repeats it to theTodi; 
and the Todi flashes it to the Jungfrau ; and the 
radiant snowy Jungfrau, — 13,000 feet high, — beams 
upon the distant West, and heralds the rising sun ! 
Many are the exclamations of surprise and delight, 
as peak after peak glows and glitters, and lake 
after lake sparkles and shines. But like Peter, 



SWISS CHALETS. ALPINE SONGS. 247 

James, and John, we must descend from this 
mount of transfiguration. And in order that we 
may better study the manners and habits of the 
Swiss, we walk from the summit to the base of the 
Eigi. 

Among the Swiss mountains the cattle are led 
up the hillsides in the early spring, and do not 
return until late in the Fall. Every cow has a 
bell attached; and the ringing and jingling of 
these scores of bells, makes the mountain air mu- 
sical. This bright, beautiful morning we listen 

" To the tintinnabulation that so musically wells, 
From the bells, bells, bells, bells, , 

From the jingling and the tinkling of the bells." 

Here and there, like birds' nests in the clefts of 
the rocks, are the chalets of the herdsmen. Along 
those steep declivities, the Swiss peasant, assisted 
by an iron-pointed Alpenstock and spiked shoes, 
is climbing. On his back he carries a long, shal- 
low basket, in which are placed the milk-pails. 
He moves from height to height until the cows are 
milked, and then slowly descends to his mountain 
home. Here are maidens moving with heavy 
burdens where goats might fear to climb. They 
are singing strange melodies, and their happy 
voices are sweetly ringing through these wild 



248 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

ravines. Alpine horns sound from peak to peak 
along this mountain range, — herdsman answering 
herdsman. We enter a Swiss cottage, and ask for 
some milk. The floor is "paved with stone, — per- 
haps to prevent it from sliding down the hill. The 
woman talks pleasantly ; is very polite ; and pre- 
sents the thirsty tourist with such an excellent ar- 
ticle. This milk has never tasted of the mountain 
stream, although that stream dances merrily past 
the door-way. Thus refreshed we press down the 
hill to Yitznau. The scenes along this morning's 
pathway, recall some beautiful passages of descrip- 
tive poetry. 

" When hums the mountain bee in May's glad ear, 
And emerald isles to spot the heights appear, 
When shouts and lowing herds the valley fill, 
And louder torrents stem the noon-tide hill, 
When fragrant scents beneath the enchanted tread 
Spring up, his choicest wealth around him spread. 
The pastoral Swiss begins the cliff to scale. 
To silence leaving the deserted vale. 
Mounts where the verdure leads, from stage to stage, 
And pastures on, as in the patriarchs' age ; 
O'er loftier heights serene and still they go, 
And hear the rattling thunder far below— 
I see him up the midway cliff', he creeps 
To where a scanty knot of verdure peeps ; 
Thence down the steep a pile of grass he throws, 
The fodder of his herds in winter snows. 
An idle voice the Sabbath region fills, 
Of deep that calls to deep across the hills : 



LION OF LUCERNE. SKELETON OF ST. KLAUS. 249 

Broke only by the melanclioly sound 
Of drowsy bells forever tinkling round." 

After glancing at the " Lion of Lucerne/^ — 
sculptured by Thorvaldsen out of the sandstone 
rock, and dedicated to the memory of the Swiss 
soldiers who were slain in Paris in 1792, — we 
charter a Swiss "Diligence/' and proceed to 
Briens, over the Briinig Pass. The distance is 17 
miles, and the fare $2.20. Our coach is drawn 
by a lively pair of horses ; the roads are broad, 
hard and smooth; and the scenery, — mountains, 
lakes, Swiss cottages, foaming cataracts and flash- 
ing cascades, — is beautiful. 

In the village of Sachseln on the east bank of 
Lake Sarnen, we visit St. Nikolaus, or St. Klaus. 
In 1487 this venerable man died; and for his 
piety and good works he was quickly canonized. 
His skeleton is carefully preserved in the village 
church, and exhibited to all those who pay a small 
admission fee. Here also may be seen the home- 
spun garments worn by this sainted Swiss. It is 
said that during the 20 years of his hermit life, he 
subsisted upon the sacred elements, of which he 
partook monthly. And in this old church the 
skeleton and the garments, have been sacredly 
kept the past 400 years ! As we look upon these 
fleshless bones, glittering'with cheap ornaments, 
11 



250 WANDEEIKGS IN EUROPE. 

we sympathize with all those pious Swiss who may 
yet be ^' canonized/^ 

Brienz, is a village of wooden houses, situated 
at the foot of the Brienzer Grat, — over 7,000 feet 
high, — and on the margin of lake Briens. This 
town is famous for its wood carving. Some 600 
of the inhabitants are carvers in wood. A visit is 
paid to a dozen of these private manufactories. 
By purchasing some trifling articles, we are per- 
mitted to sit and watch the men and women at 
work. These wild mountain artists are very 
gentle, and exceedingly kind, when the slightest 
interest is manifested in their handiwork. 

And what beautiful toys are made in tliese hum- 
ble Swiss homes : what exquisite workmanship 
comes from the hands of these poor rustic Swiss 
peasants ! One old artist quickly responds to our 
expressions of kindly feeling, by carving our name 
on a rule we purchase, as a memorial of our visit. 

Part of the 9tli day of July is spent in rowing 
and fishing upon lake Brienz. A boat is chartered ; 
rod, line, hook, and bait provided ; and we ^Maunch 
into the deep.'' But after the most tempting, 
offers of a '^crooked hook baited with a vile earth 
worm," these foolish Swiss fish will not bite. And 
" having toiled " until twilight, we return to the 
'' Hotel and Pension de FOurs," having '^ taken 
nothing/' — worthy of being recorded. 



BRILLIANT Ci^SCADES. ALPINE STOEM. 251 

The Giesbach Falls, is formed of seven cascades 
that leap and foam several hundred feet along the 
mountain side. In the summer evenings these 
falls are brilliantly illuminated. Upon a signal 
being given, either by the ringing of a bell, or the 
flight of a rocket, scores of blazing red white and 
green lights flash along the cascades, coloring the 
foaming falling waters, and exciting the greatest 
enthusiasm among the admiring tourists. 

Interlahen, situated between the lakes, — lake 
Brienz and lake Thun, — is a popular summer 
resort. Here w^e find the prettiest Swiss cottages 
in Switzerland. Such is the fineness of material, 
elegance of finish and beauty of decoration, that 
they look more like large toys than human habita- 
tions. From Interlaken to Bern, we are carried 
by railroad and steamboat. While sailing over 
lake Thun, a storm rages amid the lofty Alps, and 
the scene from the deck of our steamer is magni- 
ficent. The ^'Bernese Oberlaud," numbering 70 
Alpine peaks, rises grandly beyond the lake. Thirty 
of these snow-clad mountains range from 10,000 
to 13,000 feet in height. And how the loud 
thunder rolls, and shining showers march along 
those Alpine heights ! The lightning, nimble- 
footed, leaps from the Wetterhorner to the Fin- 
steraarh, from the Finsteraarh to the Bllimlisalp, 
and encircles the snowy summits of the Monch 



252 WANDEIilNGS IN EUROPE. 

and Jiingfrau, with bands of flashing fire ! The 
scene is sublime. We have never witnessed such 
a war of the elements, upon a battle-field so grand. 
What revelations of the power of the Almighty 
are before us ! '^ He bowed the heavens also, and 
came down, and darkness was under his feet. He 
did fly upon the wings of the wind : the Lord 
also thundered in the heavens, and the Highest 
gave his voice i yea he sent out his arrows and 
scattered them : and he shot out lightnings, and 
discomfited them." 

" Far along, 
From peak to peak, the rattling crags among 
Leaps the live thunder ! Not from one lone cloud, 
But every mountain now hath found a tongue, 
And Jura answers, through her misty shroud, 
Back to the joyous Alps, who call to her aloud !" 

Berrif is beautifully located on the banks of the 
Aare and in view of the Bernese Oberland. The 
houses are very quaint-looking structures • and 
the streets rejoice in the most classic names. The 
principal street is one mile in length, and is labeled 
the Spitalgasse, Marktgasse, Kramgasse, and Ge* 
richtigkeitsgasse ! Now if all the streets in Bern 
are as "gasse" as this one, then indeed the 
Bernese Swiss must be very talkative people. 

There are some costly edifices in the Swiss 
capital. The Federal Council Hall, in which the 



BERN. BARRY AND THE BEARS. 253 

sessions of the two great national Councils are 
held, is quite conspicuous. The debates are con- 
ducted in the German, French, and Italian lan- 
guages; and all the rulings and resolutions, must 
be announced in French and German. The 
Cathedral is a beautiful building, — elaborately 
and tastefully ornamented. In the Library, 
"Prescott's Histories" in English, and "Paley" 
in German, stand side by side. The university 
is attended by about 200 students. The Museum 
contains some objects of interest. Here, the St. 
Bernard dog ^^ Barry" is exhibited. This dog 
during his earthly career along the snowy summits 
of St. Bernard, saved the lives '^of 15 persons."" 
And like the canonized St. Nikolaus, Barry is 
"preserved" for his '' good works." Here also 
is a magnificent specimen of crystal from the 
Tiefengletschar, weighing 270 lbs. 

The Bears are highly favored by the Bernese. 
On the right bank of the Aare, in the Barengraben, 
Bruin is kept at the public expense. And the 
antics of these " privileged characters,' ' are as 
amusing on the banks of tlie Aare, as on the 
banks of the Schuylkill. The specimens we laugh 
at this afternoon are large, and in excellent humor. 
The Clock Tower, standing on the Kramgasse, is 
an object of interest to all visitors. At the striking 
of the hours, two wooden bears march round ; a 



254 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

wooden cock crows ; a wooden man turns an hour 
glass ; and a stone figure strikes the hour on the 
bell. The scene is amusing, and is witnessed by 
scores of curiously-costumed Swiss. 

On our journey to Lausanne, we visit Frie- 
burg. In the Church of St. Nicholas may be heard 
one of the finest organs in Europe. It boasts of 
67 stops and 7,800 pipes. For the small sum of 
20 cents we are permitted to enter the Cathedral, 
and listen to a " performance.'^ Although the 
edifice is well filled, the silence is profound, — for 
who could move the lip or tongue when this organ 
speaks? Alpine storms thunder along the aisles, 
and shake the building ; and melodies, tender and 
pathetic, moisten the eye with tears. Could that 
'^ vox humana ^' be any other than a human voice ? 

Lausanne surprises us. The site on the ter- 
raced slopes of Mount Jorat is so commanding, and 
the view so magnificent. On the right, — in the 
distance,~are the Jura Mountains, separating 
Switzerland and France ; on the left, are the Savoy 
Hills and Valley of the Rhone; in front, gleam- 
ing for more than 30 miles, 

*' Lake Leman woos me with its crystal face, 

The mirror where the stars and mountains view 
The stillness of their aspect, in each trace 

Its clear depth yields of their fair height and hue." 

At Ouchy, we embark for Geneva. Yonder 



LAKE LEMAN. CASTLE OF CHILLOX. 255 

along the shining eastern shore is the ^^ Castle of 
Chillon:'^ 

'' Lake Leman lies by Chillon's walls; 
A thousand feet in depth below 
Its massy waters meet and flow ; 
Thus much the fathom line was sent 
From Chillon's snow-white battlement, 
"Which round about the wave enthrals." 

Here Bonnivard was imprisoned in 1530, by the 
Duke of Savoy. 

"Chillon ! thy prison is a holy place, 

And thy sad floor an altar, — for 'twas trod, 

Until his very steps have left a trace 

Worn, as if thy cold pavement were a sod, 

By Bonnivard ! — May none those marks efface ! 
For they appeal from tyranny to God." 

Lake Leman, or Geneva, is shaped like a half- 
moon. It is 55 miles in leno^th alono; the north 
bank ; 48 miles along the south bank ; and is 
from IJ to 9 miles wide. As it differs from lakes 
Zurich and Lucerne in form, and the character of 
the scenery by which it is surrounded, so it differs 
from these lakes in color. Zurich and Lucerne 
are of a pale green color, Geneva is of a deep blue. 
The banks are fringed with the walnut, magnolia, 
cedar of Lebanon, and vine. And here and there 
over the shining waters, float Swiss craft with 
lateen or "goose-wings" sail. The air this after- 
noon is balmy; the sky is bright; and the excur- 



256 WANDEEINGS IN EUROPE. 

sion from Ouchy to Geneva, is delightful and 
refreshing. 

Geneva^ is situated on the banks of the river 
Ehone, — by which it is divided into two parts, — 
and on the margin of lake Leman. Six bridges 
span the swiftly flowing Rhone, and reunite the 
divided city. The population is nearly 50,000. 
Along the quays there are handsome houses, mag- 
nificent hotels, and charming little lawns furnished 
with seats, and '^shaded with branching trees." 
The view from the Quai du Montblanc is grand. 
Yonder, lifting his snowy head 16,000 feet high, 
stands the monarch of the Alps, — the glorious 
Mont Blanc! Just 50 miles to this shining 
mountain ; and yet how near it seems to be ! 

*' Mont Blanc is the monarch of mountains; 

They crowned him long ago 
On a throne of rocks, in a robe of clouds, 

With a diadem of snow. 
Around his waist are forests braced 

The avalanche in his hand ; 
But ere it fall, that thundering ball 

Must pause for my command." 

Geneva, from its situation, and surroundings, is 
a popular resort. The English and Americans 
love to linger here. Hundreds of aristocratic tour- 
ists are either strolling through the streets, loung- 
ing in the Jardin Anglais, or visiting the bril- 
liant shops that adorn the leading thoroughfares. 



GENEVA. Calvin's catiiedeal. 257 

The principal industry is watchmaking. 1 00,000 
watches are made and sold every year. We are 
conducted through one of the largest manufactur- 
ing establishments by a member of the firm, who 
exhibits all the parts, and explains all the pro- 
cesses necessary in the construction of a watch. 
And the stores and windows so tastefully orna- 
mented with ^'warranted timekeepers" of all sizes, 
materials, and prices, tempt ns to exchange our 
ugly German coins for pretty Swiss watches. 

Geneva was the home of Calvin. Here he lived, 
and here he died in 1564. Climbing the hill, we 
visit the Cathedral in which he so eloquently 
preached; and seated in a chair once used by the 
great Reformer, reflect upon his character, labors, 
and system of theology. What an amount of 
work was accomplished by this austere man : — 
preaching daily, lecturing two or three times a 
week,foundingand superintending schools of learn- 
ing, legislating for Geneva, corresponding with 
eminent men on subjects of gravest interest that 
required the closest study, and writing those learned 
commentaries that have made his name immortal ! 
In labors and in trials, how much like the great 
apostle, of whose divinely inspired system of theo- 
logy he is the admired expounder ! 

He died at the age of 56, was buried in Geneva, 
but his resting place is not known, — and no monu- 
11* 



258 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

ment seeks to perpetuate his memory. Pie re- 
quested that no monument should be erected. In 
the Public Library are exhibited the autographs 
of Calvin, Rousseau, and other Genevese celebri- 
ties. Here also we find portraits of Calvin, Tur- 
retin, Coligny, Beza, Erasmus and Grotius. 

The Sabbath-day is much more religiously ob- 
served in Geneva, than in the German towns 
through which we have passed. And the services 
in some of the churches are exceedingly interesting 
and instructive. This afternoon at the close of the 
service, a child is baptized. In the front pews are 
seated father, mother, and all the family. When 
the child is presented to the minister, the members 
of the family stand ; the mother pours from a vial 
the baptismal water into the minister's open hand; 
and as the baptismal name is being pronounced, 
the entire congregation rise, as if to welcome "the 
little stranger'' to the "communion of saints." 
This is the most expressive, and beautiful baptis- 
mal service we have ever witnessed. 

From Geneva to Mont Blanc, and the Valley 
of Chamouny, is 50 miles. Selecting from our 
valise a few " changes '' of raiment, and bracing 
them in a neat Genevese strap, we purchase a 
ticket, take a seat with the driver and roll on to 
Chamouny. The road is broad and smooth ; the 
scenery picturesque : and the atmosphere exhila- 



GRAND DRIVE TO MT. BLAXC. 259 

rating. Through the valley of the Arva ; around 
the mountains of Savoy ; in sight of castle ruins 
and flashing cascades; and over lovely meadows 
breathing perfume, our chariot rolls. How these 
horses love to gallop ; and how grandly the Dili- 
gence sw^ays and thunders behind their flying feet ! 
Here is the Breson 6,000 feet high ; and yonder 
the Aiguilles de Varens, 9,000 feet above the 
level of the sea. Down along these mountains 
cascades leap 1000 feet; and swerved by passing 
winds, they look like shining serpents scaling the 
lofty heights. 

At St. Martin's the shining peaks of Mont Blanc 
suddenly appear. The mountain is 12 miles dis- 
tant, but really seems to overshadow us. How 
lofty, grand, and dazzling, are those snow-clad 
summits ! We are now in the lovely valley of 
Chamouny ; and for this enjoyable ride of 50 
miles pay $4.20. 

The Valley of Chamouny, is 15 miles long, and 
nearly one mile wide. It is a verdant vale. Al- 
pine flowers bloom, and corn grows along the line 
of perpetual snow. Streams of purest ice water 
rush from melting glaciers, and swell the foaming 
Arva. A dozen snow-clad peaks, ranging from 
10,000 to 16,000 feet high, glitter in the sunlight. 

From the village of Chamouny, tourists make 
the ascent of Mont Blanc. It was ascended for the 



260 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

first time in 1786. In fine weather, and under 
the leadership of experienced guides, it may be 
climbed in safety ; but if the weather be cloudy or 
stormy, serious and sometimes fatal accidents be- 
fall the explorers. During 1870 eleven persons 
perished in a storm ! Guides charge $20 to make 
this mountain excursion. 

The " 3fer de Glace,'^ is, after Mont Blanc, the 
principal attraction. To view this /^Sea of Ice," 
we must climb on mule-back to the Montanvert, — 
6000 feet high. We hire a guide and mule for the 
entire day, — paying $6.50 for the services of both, 
■ — and at 5 o'clock on the morning of July 16th, 
lift our eyes up to those shining hills. The 
path crosses the track of avalanches ; — and how 
grand the scene when the summit is reached! 
Three glaciers, that fill the highest gorges in the 
Mont Blanc chain of mountains, unite in the form 
of a surging stream of ice, 12 miles long and a quar- 
ter of a mile wide. And there are the frozen bil- 
lows ! Miles above us are two mountain peaks, 
each over 10,000 feet high ; and between them, — 
as through a shining gateway, — this stream of 
swelling, motionless, icy waves^ majestically rolls! 

The scene is sublime, awful ; it cannot be de- 
scribed. 

"Hast thou a charm to stay the morning star 
In his steep course? So long he seems to pause 



CROSSING THE SEA OF ICE. 261 

On thy bald, awful head, O sovran Blanc ! 

The Arve and Arveiron at thy base 

Rave ceaselessly ; but thou, most awful Form ! 

Risest from forth thy silent sea of pines 

How silently ! 

"Who filled thy countenance with rosy light ? 

Who made thee parent of perpetual streams ? 

And you, ye five wild torrents, fiercely glad ! 

Who gave you your invulnerable life, 

Your strength, your speed, your fury, and your joy, 

Unceasing tliunder and eternal foam ? 

And who commanded (and the silence came), 

Here let the billows stifien and have rest ? 

Ye ice-falls ! ye that from the mountain's brow 
Adown enormous ravines slope amain, — 
Torrents, methinks, that heard a mighty voice, 
And stopt at once amid their maddest plunge ! 
Motionless torrents ! silent cataracts ! 
Who made you glorious as the gates of Heaven ? 
God ! let the torrents, like a shout of nations. 
Answer ! and let the ice-plains echo, God ! 
God ! sing, ye meadow-streams, with gladsome voice ! 
Ye pine-groves, with your soft and soul-like sounds ! 
And they too have a voice, yon piles of snow, 
And in their perilous fall shall thunder, God ! 

Ye living flowers that skirt the eternal frost! 
Ye wild goats sporting round the eagle's nest ! 
Ye eagles, playmates of the mountain storm I 
Ye signs and wonders of the elements. 
Utter forth God, and fill the hills with praise ! 

Thou, too, hoar Mount! Rise, O, ever rise, 
Rise like a cloud of incense from the Earth ! " 



Yonder is the Chapeau, but how shall we reach 



262 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

it ? By crossing this sea of ice ! Oar guide, a 
sure-footed Alpine climber, leads the way. Occa- 
sionally our slipping feet discourage us, and we 
" balance'^ as gracefully as possible on the edge of 
an iceberg. Here, is a crevasse gaping wide to the 
depth of 200 feet; and we listen to the murnuir- 
ings of a chilly stream that, — far below, — courses 
along its icy path. In the midst of our perplexi- 
ties, and bewilderments, even w^hen we are com- 
pelled to wait until the axe cuts a resting place for 
the foot, our cheerful guide shouts in French, ^' it 
is very easy, Sir !" — and sliding forward we reach 
the other shore. But we would not recross those 
icy billows, for one hundred francs ! 

Maiiignyj lies in the Rhone Valley, beyond the 
Tete Noire, some 25 miles from Chamouny. The 
people along the route are stunted in growth, of 
sallow complexion, and numbers of them afflicted 
with the goitre. The children are very polite. 
Boys and girls have great respect for strangers ; 
and bowing most gracefully, greet us in French 
with the pleasing salutation, — ^' Good day, Sir!^' 
Might not some of these Alpine lads be imported 
to teach our city youngsters '^manners?" And 
the humble priests are ^^ affect ion ed one to another 
with brotherly love;" for when they meet along 
the wayside, they bow, and kiss each other on both 
cheeks ! Just think of rival preachers, or pulpit 



KISSIXG PKIESTS. ALPINE MULE. 263 

" stars/^ whose orbits of pastoral duties circle 
through '■'■ neighboring folds/' greeting each other 
in their pious incursions '^ with a holy kiss " ! The 
little churches are surrounded by stout stone walls, 
to protect them from the thundering avalanche. 

Our four-footed conveyance possesses all the 
characteristic traits, and excellent qualities of a 
thorough-bred mule. That gentleness and docil- 
ity; that yielding and submissive disposition ; 
that readiness to walk or gallop, which so dis- 
tinguishes this pliant species of quadruped, find a 
beautiful illustration in our fiery steed. With the 
English language he is not familiar ; and his edu- 
cation in French has been ^' sadly neglected. '^ All 
spurring with the heel ; all sturdy strokes of the 
umbrella ; all the appeals for swifter motion, are 
utterly disregarded. Then in form and movement, 
this animal is a novelty among quadrupeds, — pos- 
sessing such a low neck, such a high back, and de- 
lighting in such a stylish swing! In descending 
mountains, graceful horsemanship is, under the cir- 
cumstances, quite difficult. And lest the yielding 
of crupper, or breaking of stirrups, should precipi- 
tate us 1000 feet, and suddenly end our " wander- 
ings, '^ we occasionally dismount. Then, it is so 
pleasant to see the owner of the animal ride at our 
expense ! 

Accidents along those mountain roads are of 



264 WANDERINGS IX EUROPE. 

frequent occurrence. Two heavily laden wagons 
have just been upset in rounding a narrow curve. 
One of the wagons is completely shattered ; the 
barrels are sent rolling along the hillside ; and the 
mule, — obedient to the laws of gravitation, — after 
numerous hurried revolutions, reclines on his back, 
and with *^ burnished hooves" beckons to the sun. 
This animal is so accustomed to " back up," that 
no influence except that of gravitation can compel 
him to ^^ back down." How many mules there 
are walking through life, — on two legs ! 

Martigny, is the starting point for an excursion 
over the '' Great St. Bernard J' The ascent is 
fraught with danger, but we are determined to 
visit the monks and dogs, or *^ die in the attempt." 
Our motto is " Excelsior !" The road climbs zig- 
zag along the mountain, and our Diligence moves 
slowly. The hillside is terraced, and the poor 
peasantry are toiling hard to secure a scanty sup- 
ply of food for man and beast. Here, we behold a 
new system of irrigation. Swollen torrents rush 
down from the snow-clad summits. At certain 
points, artificial streams branching from these tor- 
rent-stems, flash through and over those terraced 
heights, making them bloom '^ and blossom as the 
rose." The houses are built of stone ; have stony 
stairways ; small doors and small windows. The 
roofs are covered with large stone slabs, to protect 
them from the whirling vvinds. 



CLIMBING THE ST. BERNARD. 265 

At Bourg St. Pierre, the Diligence route ends ; 
and up to the Hospice, — four miles distant, — we 
travel "on foot." The St. Bernard Pass, was 
climbed by Napoleon in May, 1800. The moun- 
tain was then covered with snow. The guns were 
placed on sledges, and dragged by soldiers over 
the Pass. And for each cannon pulled through 
ice and snow, Napoleon paid his warriors $240. 
As we climb the scenery becomes wild. The road 
has now dwindled to a crooked pathway, and the 
last human habitation is passed. On a former and 
memorable occasion, another young man pro- 
ceeded along this same bleak and barren moun- 
tain, in the afternoon. 

" The shades of night were falling fast, 
As through an Alpine village passed 
A youth, who bore, 'mid snow and ice, 
A banner with the strange device, 

'Excelsior!'" 

This village has just been passed; but we have no 
banner, except a faded umbrella; and this is not 
ornamented with a solitary '' device.'^ 

" ' Try not the pass ! ' the old man said ; 
' Dark lowers the tempest overhead, 
The roaring torrent is deep and wide ! ' 
And loud the clarion voice replied, 
' Excelsior ! ' " 

But the old man of sallow complexion and baggy 



266 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

trousers, saluted at the " Bourg,'^ gave no such in- 
timation of the coming storm. 

" ' O stay,' the maiden said, 'and rest 
Thy weary head upon this breast ! ' 
A tear stood in his bright blue eye, 
But still he answered with a sigh, 

' Excelsior ! ' " 

The venerable maiden passed on the wayside, was 
too busily engaged in attempting to shear a big 
black sheepj to bestow the slightest attention upon 
the lonely traveler. Her strength was taxed to 
the utmost, in preserving this kicking quadruped 
in an inverted position. And in our '' blue eye" 
no "tear stood/' while we smiled at the amusing 
spectacle. 

But the storm is coming; and the gathering 
clouds, pushing the daylight down the valley, sud- 
denly shroud the shining peaks in gloom and 
darkness. The rain now falls in floods ; and the 
swollen streams rush madly through the glen. 
Boots and umbrella, have lost their water-proof 
qualities, and we walk ankle-deep in water, along 
the steep ascent. The " Valley of Death" opens 
before us. Just here, the accidents are most fre- 
quent and disastrous. Seven persons were killed 
on this spot. Close to the path stands the old 
^' Morgue." And there, lie the bleaching bones of 
unfortunate travelers, who perished in the blind- 



THE VALLEY OF DEATH. MONKS. 267 

ing suow storm, or were crushed to death beneath 
the thundering avalanche ! The surrounding 
scene is wild and dark : and we shudder at the 
sight of these uiiburied remains, and tremble lest 
a similar fate should reward our ambitious efforts. 
The words of the poet are well remembered : — 

" At break of day, as heavenward 
The pious monks of Saint Bernard 
Uttered the oft-repeated prayer, 
A voice cried through the startled air, 
' Excelsior ! ' 

A traveller, by the faithful hound, 
Half-buried in the snow was found ; 
There in the twilight cold and gray, 
Lifeless, but beautiful, he lay ! " 

Chilled by the biting blasts, yet inspired by the 
hope of reaching the summit in safety, we press 
forward over ice and snow, and upward through 
the gloomy gorge and " valley of death," until the 
" Hospice^' is reached. 

The monks and the dogs receive us kindly, — the 
former by a kind shake of the hand, the latter by a 
joyous wagging of bushy tails: we are immediately 
conducted to a comfortable room, and prompt at- 
tention paid to our numerous wants. Having 
made a hasty " toilet," placed our weary feet in a 
pair of monk's soft slippers, and partaken of a re- 
freshing meal, we sit before a blazing fire and take 
a few " notes." 



268 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

The Hosjy'ice of St. Bernard, is the Iiighest win- 
ter habitation in the Alps. The latitude is 45° 
north, and the altitude is over 8000 feet. It was 
founded in the year 962, by the pious monk whose 
nartie it bears, as a refuge for the numerous tra- 
velers crossing the Alps. The '^ brotherhood '' 
consists of 10 to 15 Augustinian monks, and 7 at- 
tendants. There are two large buildings : one of 
these contains the cells of the monks, and rooms 
with 80 beds for the accommodation of the better 
class of travelers ; the other is used as a granary, 
and lodging for the poorer classes who are con- 
tinually passing between France, Switzerland, and 
Italy. The expenses of the establishment amount 
to about $8,000 a year ; and are paid from subsi- 
dies granted by the French and Italian govern- 
ments, collections made in Switzerland, and the 
gifts of travelers. About 20,000 persons are an- 
nually accommodated ; no charge is made for food 
or lodging; but a box in the chapel marked 
^' Pour Pauvre,'' invites the kindly disposed to 
remember "the poor." 

The mean temperature at the Hospice is 30° ; 
the large rooms are heated throughout the whole 
year ; and 20 horses are employed during July, 
August, and September, in transporting fuel from 
a valley 12 miles distant. 

The reception room is neatly furnished: on the 



HOSPICE OF ST. BERNARD. 269 

walls liaiig pictures representing Napoleon cross- 
ing the Alps ; Jesus teaching ; the Apostles sepa- 
rating ; Timothy ; and St. Agnes. The Library 
is large, admirably arranged, and contains a num- 
ber of valuable works on Natural and Moral 
Philosophy and Theology, in the French and Ger- 
man languages. It has also a picture of Washing- 
ton presented by an American tourist. In the 
Museum are a number of photographs represent- 
ing the "Bernard dogs'' seeking for the dead, or 
releasing the living from their chilly abode, in the 
" beautiful " yet terrible snow. The little church 
is a perfect gem ; the organ is sweet-toned ; and 
the early morning services are conducted with 
great pomp and ceremony by these pious eccle- 
siastics. The services this morning are attended 
by all the poor wayfarers, who have been fur- 
nished with lodging for the night. And most 
reverentially do they bow before the altar, which, 
to their simple and superstitious minds, presents a 
symbol of the presence of that merciful Saviour 
w^ho said, '' blessed be ye poor, for yours is the 
kingdom of God." 

The Morgue, situated near the Hospice, is a de- 
pository for the bodies of persons who have perished 
in the snow ; and the extreme cold so retards de- 
composition, that the features of the dead are recog- 
nizable years after death. The dogs accompany 



270 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

US in a ramble around the buildings, and show a 
perfect willingness to climb the snowy heights, 
now made so resplendent by the rising sun. 

In conversing with guests the monks speak 
only French ; but they are exceedingly polite, and 
quite communicative. After a service of 15 years 
in this cold climate, subject to the labors and 
excitements incident to their perilous position, 
they are compelled to go down the valley, and 
spend the remaining years in Martigny. After 
dropping our contribution in the box, and taking 
leave of these kind friends whose appearance and 
manners we admire, and whose self-denying and 
heroic labors are warmly appreciated, we march 
forth "solitary and alone'' to the conquest of 
Italy. 




CHAPTER XII. 



ITALY. — HOSPICE TO ROME. 

The route, leads us down the hillside, by a zig- 
zag path, for several miles; then conducts us, 
along a good mountain road, to Aosta. AVith 
^^ strap " and map in one hand, umbrella and guide 
book in the other, we press down the mountain, 
merry as a lark. On the roadside are numerous 
shrines, in which are placed images of the " virgin 
and child/' garlanded with flowers. 

" By cells whose image, trembling as he prays, 
Awe-struck, the kneeling peasant scarce surveys." 

Little churches are erected in all the villao^es ; 
the peasants are gathering the harvest ; men and 
women bearing burdens beneath which an ox 
might bend, are passing along the dizzy heights ; 
maidens in brilliant costume, and crowned with 
wide-brimmed hats, are gathering the short grass 
in snow-white sheets, and carrying it down the 
hillsides for winter fodder ; sturdy men with 
large lustrous eyes, black bushy beard, and '^ raven 
locks,^' are journeying along the winding roads ; 

271 



272 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

mountain streams, fresh from icy fountains, leap 
joyously from rock to rock, brightly flashing in 
their downward flight; while soft breezes laden 
with delicious perfumes, and delightful music 
chanted by cheerful birds, assure us that we now 
walk beneath an Italian sky. 

" On as we move, a softer prospect opes — 
Calm huts, and lawns between, and sylvan slopes : 
White mists, suspended on th' expiring gale, 
Moveless o'erhang the deep secluded vale ; 
While pastoral pipes and streams the landscape lull. 
And bells of passing mules that tinkle dull." 

In 4J hours, we have descended over 6,000 
feet ; passed from chilling winds and snowy Alps 
to a valley rich in corn, wine, and oil ; from the 
home of the Swiss, to that of the Italian ; and 
walked twenty miles surrounded by scenery the 
most varied, — a very pleasant morning walk. 

At Aosta, a town founded by the Emperor Au- 
gustus to guard the mountain Pass, we dine ; and 
thus refreshed and strengthened, take the Diligence 
for Ivrea, — distant forty miles. While this our 
first Italian dinner is being prepared, a walk 
through the town reveals some strange customs. 
On the walls of the public square, are notices of 
*' engagements^' between some young Italians of 
Aosta ! Just think of the publicity given to 
that, which, is so often kept a profound secret. 



MARRIAGE CONTRACT MADE PUBLIC. 273 

Whenever a young, or old couple, hy mutual 
courtesies and kindly attentions, attain to that 
happy condition of imagining, tliat they should 
be ''no more twain, but one flesh/^ the town or 
county official, is immediately informed of the fact. 
This delighted Italian hastens to inform the 
public, by a printed notice, posted in the most 
conspicuous place. The items, composing this 
bill of fare for vulgar eyes, are as follows; — the 
man's name, age, residence, trade: his father's 
name, residence and profession : the woman's name, 
age, (!) residence, and her father's name, residence, 
and profession. With some slight alterations, this 
notice would read in English, as follows: — John 
Smith, — aged Q5, living at 33 Layasse St., son 
of Peter Smith of 65 Castellane Alley, proprie- 
tor of a cafe, — has just entered into an engage- 
ment for life, and for "better or for worse/' 
with Miss Delinda Jones, aged 63, (?) residing 
at 44 Beldire Row, daughter of Jeremiah Jones, 
of 44 Beldire Row, keeper of a refreshment 
saloon. How would lovers in America, of such 
tender years, blush at seeing the promised nup- 
tials thus placed on public exhibition ! But these 
Italians are reasonable people; and the reason 
given for this public announcement is satisfactory 
— to wit : — " that persons may have an opportu- 
nity of making objections,'^ to the consummation 
12 



274 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

of the union. A splendid opportunity this for 
rejected lovers ; — for all those heart-broken youths 
of 70^ to whom this blooming maiden may have 
impulsively given that uncomfortable covering 
for a loving hand, — ^'the mitten.^' Would not 
such a custom of public announcement in America 
be a healthy restraint upon the loving enthusiasm 
of beardless boys, and romantic maidens? In 
Chantillon, the grade, weight, and price of mer- 
chandize are printed and posted in the public 
places; and venders of meats and bread, must 
state the grade, exhibit the weight, and only 
charge the " lawful price/' upon pain of forfeit- 
ure. 

Would it work public injury, if laws like those 
of the Chantillon " Conseil Communal,'^ should 
be enacted for the government of some American 
markets ? 

At Ivrea, some of the women walk into church 
bare-footed; and every one of these Italian ladies, 
have both head and shoulders covered with beauti- 
ful white handkerchiefs, or shawls. The contrast 
is striking, and we have not witnessed such a 
spectacle in any other place of worship. 

Since leaving Lausanne, we have traveled by 
steamboat, diligence, mule, and on foot, just 200 
miles. At Ivrea, we are '^out of the woods,'' 
and the shining '' rail " is seen w^ith joy ; while 



WOMEN THRESHING. BRILIJANT COSTUME. 275 

the announcement in Italian, placarded at the ^'sta- 
tion, " promising a swift (a grande velocita) flight 
over the sunny land of Italy, is read with delight. 

The morning is simply lovely, and the train 
sweeps speedily past Chivasso, Vercelli, Novara, 
the birth-place of Peter Lombard, — ^^ Magister 
Sententiarum,'^ — and onward to the beautiful city 
of Milan. Along the route the corn waves and 
glistens, and trees bend beneath precious burdens 
of promising fruit. Men and women, bare-footed, 
are swinging the flail, and threshing in the open 
air. Farmers are turning the furrows with shin- 
ing ploughs, drawn by cream-colored cows. The 
flowers, blooming around these red-roofed stony 
cottages, are of the most brilliant hue; while men 
and maidens, adorned with crimson and orange- 
colored fabrics, add by their variegated appear- 
ance, to the novelty and picturesqueness of the 
scene. 

Milan, has a population of over 200,000 ; is the 
capital of Lombardy ; and one of the most pros- 
perous tow^ns in Italy. 

The railroad depot is adorned with frescoes, 
that feed the eye with scenes of beauty, wdiile the 
body is being refreshed with a most enjoyable 
noontide meal. There are several wide and well- 
shaded promenades, some splendid private resi- 
dences, and a succession, — for several blocks, — of 
the most elegantly furnished shops. 



276 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

The Galleria Vittorio EmanueUy is "tlie most 
attractive structure of the kind in Europe." It is 
cruciform in shape, 320 yards long, 16 yards wide, 
and 94 feet higli, and has an octagon in the centre 
crowned by a cupola 180 feet in height. It is 
adorned by 24 statues of celebrated Italians, and 
illuminated in the evening by 2000 sparkling gas- 
jets. l?his unique edifice, — where are centered the 
most attractive and brilliant silk and jewelry 
establishments," — cost $1,600,000. 

Adjoining this gallery, is the Piazza della Scala^ 
embellished with the magnificent monument of 
Leonardo da Vinci. The Biblioteca Ambrosianay 
containing 60,000 volumes and 15,000 rare manu- 
scripts, is visited. On these shelves, the '^fathers'' 
are quietly resting in volumes of immense size, and 
preserved in wormed w^ooden binding. 

In the Picture Gallery of the Brera, w^e find the 
far-famed Sposalizio, or the Nuptials of the Virgin, 
by Raphael. How the visitors linger to look upon 
that beautiful face ! In a building once used as a 
monastery, may be seen the faded and celebrated 
painting of *^ The Last Supper," by Leonardo da 
Vinci. 

The Cathedral of Milan, is both the pride of the 
Milanese, and the chief attraction to tourists. Of 
the 80 churches which adorn the city, this is the 
largest ; and, excepting St. Peter's at Rome, and 
the church of Seville, is the largest church edifice 



MILAN. THE MARBLE CATHEDRAL. 277 

in Europe. It is situated in the very heart of the 
city; and by its gleaming marble turrets, illu- 
mines the streets that circle around it. It is 477 
feet long, and 183 feet wide; the nave is 465 feet 
long and 51 wide; the dome is 220 feet in height; 
and the tower lifts its head 360 feet above the 
pavement. The edifice is supported by 52 pillars, 
each 36 feet in circumference ; and the broad 
pavement is of marble mosaic. The roof is adorned 
with 98 Gothic turrets ; and over 2000 marble 
statues, — like bright guardian angels, — stand as 
sentinels along the shining battlements of this, — 
almost,— celestial mansion. 

The altar pieces are beautiful, and were painted 
by some of the most distinguished Italian artists; 
the vast choir windows are gorgeously decorated 
with 350 representations of scriptural subjects ; 
while bronze chandeliers of the most curious form, 
exquisite workmanship, and flashing with gems, 
swing from the lofty roof. In the Treasury, are 
life-size statues of St. Ambrose and St. Borromeo, 
in silver ! 

This Cathedral differs from the Cathedrals pre- 
viously described — York, St. Paul's, Westmin- 
ster Abbey, Cologne, and Strasbourg, — in many 
respects, — chiefly in being built of marble. The 
estimated cost of this '^ miracle in marble," is 
$100,000,000. 



278 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

From the Tower, a splendid view of the Alps is 
obtained ; and conspicuous among the shining snow^- 
clad peaks, are those of the lofty Monta Rosa, 
15,217 feet high. And the Italian architect, look- 
ing upon this pinnacled snowy edifice, erected in 
imitation of the same, the marble-turreted Cathe- 
dral of Milan ! What are the grandest works o^ 
man, but feeble imitations of the divine handi- 
work ! 

The Milanese are dignified in movement, refined 
in manner, elegant in dress, and quite handsome. 
We have seen no paintings in the art galleries, 
more beautiful than are some of those *' stylish," 
"fashionable," and "aristocratic" Milanese, that 
promenade along the brilliant Galleria Vittorio 
Emmanuele. In the evening, the Piazza is 
crowded with men sipping wines, and listening to 
the most charming music, vocal and instrumental. 
"Oft in the stilly night '' the voice of song may 
be heard, when the moon shines brightly in the 
blue Italian sky. 

Venice, is distant from Milan 200 miles. At 
four o'clock on a lovely morning, the train, — sent 
off with the blast of a bugle, — the Italian style of 
dismissing trains from stations, — goes thundering 
over the rich and fertile plains of Lombardy. On- 
ward we speed past the cities of Bergamo, Brescia, 
Verona, Vicenza, and Padova. How beautifully 



PEASANTS. VINEYARDS. VIRGIL. 279 

situated are these towns, crowning the heights and 
commanding magnificent views of the surrounding 
country! And how fruitful are these fields; how 
sweet with fragrance and merry with song! 

The language of the poet is appropriate in pres- 
ence of such a scene : — 

'' Thou art the garden of the world, the home 
Of all Art yields, and Nature can decree ; 
Even in thy desert, what is like to thee? 
Thy very weeds are beautiful, thy waste 
More rich than other climates' fertility, 
Thy wreck a glory, and thy ruin graced 
With an immaculate charm which cannot be defaced," 

Orchards, vineyards, mulberry plantations, fol- 
low^ in quick succession. Peasants robed in bril- 
liant colored garments are toiling in the fields. 
The fruit trees, festooned with vines, clasp hands 
for miles along the track. How beautifully Virgil, 
the farmer and poet, — who was born in Mantua, a 
few miles distant^ — pictures this peasant life: — 

*' Oh peasants, far too blest ! if only this 
Were theirs, the simple knowledge of their bliss ! 
Far from the din of arms, earth's foodful soil 
With easy nutriment repays their toil. 
Yet, rich in various wealth, the peasant knows 
A life ingenuous, and a safe repose. 
Calm fields, fresh dells, grots, limpid lakes, the breeze. 
Echoing with herds, and slumbers bowered with trees." 

And the Latin poet, Avienus, in a little poem 



280 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

on ^'Country Life/' refers to the vines hanging 
from the trees, just as we see them swing this 
morning : — 

" Safe-roofed my cottage ; swelling rich with wine, 
Hangs from the twisted elm my clustered vine " 

The train halts on the banks of the beautiful 
Lago di Garda. This lake is 35 miles long and 
7 miles broad. The surrounding scenery is quite 
picturesque, and groves of orange trees wave along 
the western bank. At Padua we have a fine view 
of the Tyrolese Alps ; and Yenezia with its towers, 
churches, and palaces, gradually rises from the 
sea. The train, with slackened speed, now rolls 
over the longest bridge in the world, — that which 
crosses the Laguna. This bridge is 2J- miles long 
and 28 feet broad ; has 222 arches; and unites the 
land to the famous city on the sea. 

Venice. Upon the fall of the Western Roman 
Empire, the inhabitants of those cities bordering 
on the northern coast of the Adriatic sea, were 
pushed out upon the small islands of the Lagune, 
by the hordes of barbarian invaders, by whom the 
country was overrun. These islands became sub- 
sequently united, and formed the famous island 
city of Yenice. The present population of Yenice 
is 130,000, and one fourth of these are said to be 
paupers. There are in the city 15,000 houses and 



VENICE. PROMENADING IN A GONDOLA. 281 

palaces; and these are erected upon '^ 3 large and 
114 smallislands, formed by 147 canals, and con- 
nected by 378 bridges. '^ The city is 7 miles in 
circumference, and surrounded by a shallow bay, 
25 miles in length and 9 miles in width. It is pro- 
tected from the sea by long sand hills, which are 
converted into bulwarks by means of solid masonry 
30 feet high, and 50 feet broad. 

The houses are built either along the canals, or 
are separated from them by narrow streets. These 
streets are paved with broad slabs or brick, and 
wind in every possible direction. The houses 
rest upon piles, which, by the action of the salt 
water become stronger and more durable as they 
increase in years. Older and stronger is their motto. 

The Grand Canal^ two miles long and 33-66 
yards wide — in shape like an inverted S — divides 
the city into two unequal parts. It is spanned by 
two bridges, the Ponte Serra Delia Canita, and the 
historic Ponte di Rialto; and is the ^'aristocratic 
quarter,'^ — the 5th Avenue of Venice. Its banks 
are adorned with magnificent palaces, and hand- 
some houses occupied by the Venetian aristocracy. 
But how may we travel along this broad avenue, 
and view these fading glories of ancient Venice, — 
by steamboat, street car, omnibus, on horseback 
or on foot? No, — but by gondola. This is, — to 

ns, — a new style of conveyance, and a trifle more 
12* 



282 WANDERI^'GS IN EUKOPE. 

poetic than either an Irish jaunting car, or even a 
Swiss mule. And how we have longed to sit in 
one of these ^^ romantic'^ pleasure boats, and be 
rowed through the streets of Venice ! 

The afternoon is warm, the gondola chartered, 
and we are gliding smoothly along the Grand Canal. 
The " Gondolier/^ with broad-brimmed straw hat 
tied with blue ribbon, orange colored necktie, and 
\vaist girt with a blue or red scarf, presents quite a 
picturesque appearance. 

Our boat, — painted black, with a low black cabin, 
furnished with a black leather seat, — is more sug- 
gestive of an undertaker's establishment going on 
a burial excursion, than of a pleasure party com- 
posed of merry tourists. But black has been for 
300 years the " fashionable '^ color, and we are 
delighted at the thought of being in ^' the • 
fashion.'^ A heavy iron prow counterbalances 
the weight of the gondolier, who, from the 
** pojjpa,^' rows the boat with a single oar. No 
other waterman can compare with this tall, grace- 
ful, and handsome oarsman. How lithe and agile! 
And with what ease and skill, he propels his 
obedient boat through the wandering fleet that 
float on the Grande Canal ! 

But the palaces, — faded beauties, — attract the 
eye. Here is the Giustinian, — the property of the 
Duchess of Parma ; the Manin, — owned by the 



rONTE RIALTO. THE MERCHANT OF VENICE. 2<S3 

last Doge of Venice; the Corner clella Regina, 
erected on the site of the house in which Catherine 
Cornaro, Queen of Cyprus, was born : — and the 
palace Yendramin Calergi, one of the most mag- 
nificent edifices on the canal, owned by the Count 
de Chambord. 

The historic Ponte Rialto, which now shades 
us, is a very substantial structure, 300 years old, 
and until 1854 was the only connecting link be- 
t\ycen the east and west quarters of Venice. The 
bridge, — 158 feet long and 46 feet w^ide, — consists 
of a single marble arch of 74 feet span, and 82 feet 
in height, resting on 12,000 piers. The fish, fruit, 
and vegetable markets on the right and left banks 
near this bridge, present a scene both lively and 
amusing. Here, we look with delight upon the 
^'Merchant of Venice" commending his wares to 
the purchasing public, and making the air musical 
with his smoothly flowing Italian. Some of these 
traders appear to be descendants of Abraham, and 
perhaps '^distant relatives" of the well-known 
" Shylock." 

And was it not at this very bridge, that bargains 
were made, and monies loaned, in the olden times, — 
if Shakespeare is to be credited ? 

'' What news on the Eialto ? 
Antonio : — Well, Shylock, sliall we be beholden to you ? 



284 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

Shylock : — Signor Antonio, many a time and oft, 
In the Eialto you have rated me 
About my monies, and my usances ; 
Still have I borne it with a patient shrug 
For sufferance is the badge of all our tribe ; 
You call me-misbeliever, cut-throat dog, 
And spit upon my Jevfish gaberdine, 
And all for use of that which is mine own." 

Bidding farewell to our gay gondolier, and 
threading the labyrinth of narrow streets, we reach 
St. Mark's Church. This edifice — in the form of 
a Greek cross, — was erected in the 10th century. 
The style of architecture is the Komanesque- 
Byzantine, and the edifice is adorned with no less 
than 500 marble columns. Marble mosaic pave- 
ments cover an area of 45,790 square feet. In the 
interior, the walls shine with polished oriental mar- 
bles ; marble statues of the Apostles, and bronze 
statues of the four Evangelists look serenely down 
upon us from lofty pedestals ; two pulpits in 
colored marbles, each resting upon seven columns, 
guard the high altar; the altar-piece, made of 
plates of gold and silver, is ornamented with 
flashing gems. In the rear of the high altar are four 
spiral columns of alabaster, — two of which are 
said to have adorned the temple of Solomon : — ■ 
and beneath the high altar repose the remains of 
St. Mark, — brought hither from Alexandria, in 
the year 828 ! 




^ 





St. Mark's and Ducil P ik 



ST. MATJv'S CHURCH. BRIDGE OF SIGHS. 285 

Four horses in gilded bronze, each 5 feet in 
height, stand above the principal portal. These 
bronze steeds once stood upon Nero's triumphal 
arch in Rome, were conveyed to Constantinople 
by ConstantinCj to Paris by Napoleon, and to 
Venice by the Emperor Francis. 

" Before vSt. Mark still glow his steeds of brass, 
Their gilded collars glittering in tlie sun." 

The Palace of the Doges, erected in 1350, ad- 
joins the church of St, Mark. The council room, 
where the Nobili once assembled, is 165 feet long, 
78 feet broad, and 47 feet high. On the east 
wall hangs tlie largest oil painting in the world, — 
Tintoretto's '' Paradise." Portraits of the 76 
doo^es, or chief mao^istrates of Venice, and 21 laro;e 
paintings representing famous historic scenes, by 
such ^' masters " of the brush as Tintoretto, and 
Paolo Veronese, decorate the walls. In the upper 
room, we find the crossing of the '^Red Sea," — a 
most brilliant picture, — by Titian. The brilliancy 
of coloring, so characteristic of the ^' Venetian 
School" of painting, is admirably illustrated in 
the life-like and beautiful pictures that adorn these 
palace halls. 

Our guide conducts us to the '^ Pazzi," or dun- 
geons, where the state prisoners were kei)t in close 
confinement; and down to the cell in which they were 



286 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

strangled. Here, in these lower depths, where no 
ray of sunlight ever comes, and respiration is diffi- 
cult, the doomed men spent the gloomy days in 
perpetual darkness. Upon this wooden pallet now 
before us,— the only article of furniture in the cell, 
— how many a sorrowing convict, may have slept 
the unhappy hours away, while aw^aiting release 
by death ! A bridge spans the canal, and unites 
the Ducal palace with the prisons on the opposite 
side; and over this bridge, — which we have just 
crossed, — the prisoners were led to be executed. 
This is the Ponte dei Sospiri, or the " Bridge of 
Sighs.'' 

" I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs ; 
A palace and a prison on each hand : 
I saw from out the waves her structures rise 
As from the stroke of the enchanter's wand. 
A thousand years their cloudy wings expand 
Around me, and a dying glory smiles 
O'er the fiir times when many a subject land 
Look'd to the winged Lion's marble piles, 
Where Venice sat in state, throned on her hundred isles." 

The Piazza of St Marh, 192 yards in length 
and 60 to 90 yards in breadth, paved with marble 
blocks, and enclosed on three sides by imposing 
marble edifices, is the centre of attraction at Venice. 
Here, we find the shops, where Venetian pearls, 
bracelets, necklaces, ornaments in mosaic, glass 



BRILLIANT SCENE IN THE PIAZZA, 287 

and shells, tempt iis to spend a few francs; and here 
also are the luxurious Cafes, where the wines 
of Cyprus and Valiaressa are sipped, and delicious 
"ices/' and ''creams," are daily enjoyed by aristo- 
cratic Venetians. At two o\)lock each day, a large 
flock of pigeons are fed in this square at the public 
expense. This custom has prev^ailed during the 
past 500 years; the pigeon being highly revered 
since the days of the famous Admiral Dandolo, 
when, by messages borne over the sea by this bird, 
to and from the Venetian commander, splendid 
victories were won. 

In the evening, the Piazza presents a brilliant 
spectacle. A band plays in the centre of the 
square. Around scores of little tables are seated 
hundreds of men and women, robed in the most 
variegated costume, — Venetians, Austrians, Ori- 
entals, Greeks and Turks ; while up and down 
the wide marble pavement, in brilliant procession, 
march joyous crowds conversing in the liveliest 
manner, and exchanging pleasant salutations and 
happy smiles. 

After climbing the lofty Campanile, erected in 
St. Mark's square, and paying a moonlight visit 
to the Liddo, we leave for Florence. 

The distance is 180 miles, and the route lies 
through Padua, the home of Petrarch, — and where 
just at present, June, 1874, — the 500th anniversary 



2S8 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

of his death is being celebrated; and Ferrara, where 
Ariosto sleeps, and over the fertile plains of 
Northern Italy to Bologna. Bologna, — an ancient 
Etruscan city,-^has a population of 100,000, 130 
churches, 20 monasteries, and a celebrated Univer- 
sity, founded in 1119. In 1218 there were 10,000 
students attending the lectures in this famous 
school. Anatomy was first taught here in the 
14th century \ in this university, galvanism v/as 
discovered by Jos. Galvani in 1789: and a few 
talented women have been conspicuous among its 
distinguished professors. Mme. Manzolina, gave 
instruction in anatomy ; Mme. Bassi, taught mathe- 
matics and physical science; and in the 14th cen- 
tury the beautiful Novella d' Andrea, — concealed 
by a curtain, — lectured the young students of the 
university ! Is this the origin of that delightful 
literary entertainment known by the name of 
'^curtain lectures?'^ If it be so, then how in- 
debted is the '^sterner sex^^ for the pleasing in- 
struction thus received, — when the moon looks 
down from the midnight sky, — to the lovely No- 
vella of Bologna ! But must the ladies receive an 
appointment before they can exercise their talents 
in this direction? This, indeed, may have been 
the custom in the 14th century, but how changed are 
the times, and what liberty is enjoyed in the matter 
of ^'curtain lectures," in this the 19th century ! 



BOLOGNA. CROSSING THE APENNINES. 289 

The Library of Bologna contains 100,000 vol- 
umes : and the celebrated linguist, Cardinal Mez- 
zofanti, who was born in Bologna in 1776, and 
who could speak 42 languages, once occupied the 
position of librarian. The city is situated in a 
fertile plain, at the base of the Apennines; and 
the neighborhood produces excellent fruit, and the 
most delicious grapes. And how the juice of these 
grapes, carefully bottled, lie in wait for the weary 
and thirsty traveler. On the refreshment table, at 
which we sit sipping excellent tea, there are just 
126 bottles of this tempting liquid! And how 
the corks fly ; and the pressed Uva Paradisa flows 
and flows ! 

Our train, sent off with the blast of a bugle, 
rolls along the banks of. the Reno ; through ro- 
mantic ravines, where cascades flash, and castles 
shine ; over bridges that span the rushing river ; 
through more than twenty tunnels that pierce the 
Tuscan mountains ; and climbing the lofty Apen- 
nines, thunders along these sunny slopes, in sight 
of the lovely Tuscan plains,— the '* garden of 
Italy ;" — and halts at the home of Italian Art, 
the birth-place of Dante, and Michael Angelo. 

Florenoe. Florence, formerly the capital of the 
Grand Duchy of Tuscany, is situated in a beauti- 
ful valley, at the foot of the Apennines, and on 
the banks of the Arno. The population is 170, 



290 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

000. The streets are, — 'generally, — narrow, paved 
with smooth flags, and flanked with high houses, 
ornamented with green blinds. Some of the 
promenades are wide ; and several of the ^' Piaz- 
zas " are surrounded by magnificent buildings. 
The Piazza Vitiorio Emmanuele, on the right bank 
of the Arno, introduces us to the ^' Cascine,'' or, 
park of Florence. This park, — about two miles 
long,— is bounded by the Arno, and Mugnone, 
anfl is the principal rendezvous for aristocratic 
Florentines. An afternoon drive, in a " stylish'* 
cab, along this fashionable thoroughfare, is most 
delightful and refreshing. The charges being so 
low, and the charioteer so polite, we present him 
with a few centessimi as an expression of our 
kindly appreciation ; and what a graceful bow, 
and inimitable swing of the hat, do we receive 
from this bushy bearded Florentine ! How grace- 
ful in movement, are these olive-complexioned 
Italians ! Men, standing upon the street corners, 
look like groups of statuary fresh from the chisel 
of Praxiteles, or Michael Angelo. And many of 
these poor, unlettered donkey drivers, might be 
taken as models for statues of Jupiter or Apollo, 
without offending the majesty of those celebrated 
divinities. 

We follow some of these living statues, in the 
track of quick-footed and heavily burdened 



FLORENCE. NOISY xAIERCETANTS. 291 

donkeys, to the market place. A lively and 
ludicrous scene is before us. Here, are apples, 
apricots, pears, plums, cherries, and lemons, in 
the greatest abundance. And yonder, are street 
merchants selling hosiery, jewelry, cutlery, and 
dry goods; each salesman, and saleswoman, shout- 
ing the peculiar quality, and the exceeding cheap- 
ness of their respective wares, and gesticulating 
in the most passionate, yet winning manner. 
Some of these enthusiastic, and ambitious traders, 
well-nigh embrace reluctant purchasers, and by 
every imaginable facial, and vocal expression, seek 
to make quick sales. This is something new. It 
beats both Jews and Germans. These impetuous 
Italians, outrun all the "runners" that chase the 
Jerseymen along Market and 2d Sts., in Phila- 
delphia. The din is terrible, and would be in- 
tolerable, in any other language than the musical 
Italian. When the ^' bipeds " rest to ^' take 
breath," then the quadrupeds wake the echoes in 
the ^' Signoria," by their sonorous brayings. 

But Florence is distinguished for somethino; 
better, than braying donkeys, and blatant street 
merchants. What Rome was in ancient times, 
Florence has been in modern times, — to Italy. 
Since the ^' Middle Ages," — Florence has been 
the centre of intellectual life ; the home of Italian 
art. The Italian language, and literature, were 



292 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

born in this city; and here, the fine arts attained 
the zenith of their glory. 

Giovanni Cimabue, the founder of the Italian 
school of painting, born in 1240 ; Dante Alli- 
gliieri, the founder of the modern Italian lan- 
guage, and the author of the ^' Divine Comedy," 
born in 1265; Leonardo da Vinci, born in 1452 ; 
Michael Angelo Buonarroti, born in 1474; and 
Galileo, born in 1564, were all natives of Flor- 
ence. And the treasures of art, contained in 
these galleries, — both of statuary, engravings, 
drawings, and paintings are priceless. 

Passing through the Piazza del la Signoria, once 
the forum of the republic, and the place where 
Savonarola the Italian reformer, was burnt at the 
stake on the 23d May, 1498, we climb a stairway 
of 126 steps, to the Gallerio degli Uffizi. The 
east corridor is 534 feet long, and adorned with 
paintings and statuary, and 534 portraits of princes 
and eminent men. The Tribuna, an octagonal- 
shaped hall, built at an expense of flOO.OOO, con- 
tains some celebrated statues, and paintings. Here, 
is the Venus de Medici, found in the 16th century 
near Tivoll, — a master-piece of ancient sculpture; 
here also, is ^^ The Youthful John,'^ by Raphael ; 
the ^' Holy Family," by Michael Angelo ; the 
" Holy Family/^ by Paolo Veronese, — quite a 
different conception from the preceding; and 
the ^'Flight to Fgypt," by Correggio. 



THE UFFIZI AiND PITTI PALACES. 293 

There are rooms in which the several schools of 
painting, — Tuscan, Venetian, Dutch, Flemish, 
German, and French, exhibit the master-pieces of 
their most celebrated artists. And here we find 
young artists, busily engaged in studying and 
copying the ^' old masters/' In some of these 
^' copies/' there is reproduced a striking likeness ; 
but in others, the resemblence to the '^ original," is 
exceedingly faint. 

The Cabinet of the Gems, supported by four 
columns of oriental alabaster, and four of verde 
antico, and containing 400 gems, and precious 
stones, — once the property of the Medici, — is con- 
spicuous and attractive. Here, glitter and sparkle, 
vessels of lapis lazuli, and onyx ; vases of jasper ; 
bas-reliefs in gold, and statuettes in gold, adorned 
with diamonds. 

This UfiQzi gallery, stands on the right bank of 
the Arno, and originated with the Medici collec- 
tion. On the left bank, — conspiciously situated, — 
is the Palazzo Pitti, built by order of Lucca Pitti, 
a powerful opponent of the Medici. This palace 
is now united to the Uffizi gallery, by the Ponte 
Vecchio ; and the ten minutes walk, from the 
" Uffizi'' to the ''Pitti,'' over the flowing Arno, is 
the most interesting and delightfid "artistic" ex- 
cursion, thus far enjoyed. The stairways and cor- 
ridor, along which we pass, are ornamented with 



294 WA^^DERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

woodcuts, engravings, drawings, and paintings, by 
the, tens of thousands ! In a single collection, 
there are 30,000 '' drawings.^' ! The Pitti Palace, 
has been the residence of the reigning sovereign 
since the 16th century. The central structure is 
350 feet broad, and 121 feet high. Through 
these splendid saloons, adorned with 500 pictures 
• — " works of the old masters,'^ — we wonderingly 
wander. And reclining on velvet covered seats, 
we gaze with delight upon tables made of mala- 
chite, alabaster, marble, and mosaic, — some of 
which are valued at $150,000; upon the '^ Holy 
Family,'^ by Murillo, and Madonnas, by Raphael. 

*' T shall not soon forget that sight ; 

The glow of autumn's westering day, 
A hazy warmth, a dreamy light, 

On Kaphael's picture lay. 

" It was a simple print I saw, 

The fair face of a musing boy ; 
Yet, while I gazed, a sense of awe 

Seemed blending with my joy. 

"There drooped thy more than mortal face, 

O Mother, beautiful and mild 1 
Enfolding in one dear embrace 

Thy Saviour and thy child 1 " 

The famous " Boboli Garden," surrounds the 
Pitti palace ; and with its winding walks, ter- 
raced heights, sparkling fountains, beautiful statues, 
and charming views of Florence and the surround- 



ST. J0II^''S CHURCH, BRONZE DOORS. 295 

ing countiy, is a delightful place to spend the 
afternoon. 

The national library contains 200,000 volumes, 
and 800 manuscripts. Through the kindness of 
the gentlemanly librarian, we are permitted to 
look upon the " first printed Homer, and Dante.'' 
These volumes are not exposed to vulgar sight, 
but are carefully guarded by lock and key, in a 
remote apartment. We scarcely recognize our 
old Grecian friend of college days, in his typo- 
graphical dress of 1488. 

Florence has 87 churches. A few of these are 
worthy of mention. Here is the church of St. 
John the Baptist, octagonal in form, 94 feet in 
diameter, crowned wath a dome, and famous for 
its three bronze doors. The oldest of these doors, 
— adorned with representations from the life of St. 
John, — was completed by Pisano, in 1330. This 
artist spent 22 years in decorating this door! The 
second door, — ornamented with ten scenes from 
Scripture history, — Michael Angel o regarded as 
worthy of forming an entrance to Paradise. The 
Cathedral, — 556 feet long, and 342 feet across 
the transepts, — is crowned by a dome, 352 feet in 
height. The interior decorations, are not so bril- 
liant as some of the cathedrals already described. 

The church of St. Lorenzo, is one of the most 
ancient in Italy. It was consecrated by St. 



296 WANDERIaXGS IN EUROPE. 

Ambrose in 393. In the new sacristy, are the 
monuments of the Medici, executed by Michael 
Angelo. Tlie Chapel of the Princes, — the burial 
chamber of the grand-duk^s— is perhaps the most 
elaborately ornamented, and the costliest edifice of 
the kind, in Europe. Here, are granite sarcophagi 
of the princes, guarded by gilded bronze statues ; 
and the armorial bearins-s of sixteen Tuscan towns, 
in the most brilliant marble mosaics. Nearly five 
millions of dollars were expended by the Medici 
family, in the construction and ornamentation of 
this edifice. 

The Church of 8. Croce, is the Pantheon of 
modern Italy. In this church, are buried some of 
the most illustrious men of the churches. In the 
north and south aisles, we find the monuments of 
Machiavelli, Alfieri, Galileo, and Michael Angelo. 

" In Santa Croce's holy precincts lie 
Ashes which make it holier, dust which is 
Even in itself an immortality, — 

Here repose 
Angelo's, Alfieri's bones, and his, 
The starry Galileo, with his woes ; 
Here Machiavelli' s earth returned to whence it rose." 

In the south aisle, there is a beautiful honorary 
monument to the memory of Dante. The poet was 
not buried in S. Croce. When the Guelphs were 
victorious over the Ghibellines, in 1302, Dante was 



DANTE. BEATRICE. GEMMA. 297 

banished from Florence. He died at Ravenna, in 
September, 1321 ; and his tomb is in the church 
of S. Francesca, in that city. 

" Ungrateful Florence ! Dante sleeps afar, 
Like Scipio, buried by the upbraiding shore ; 
Thj factions, in their worse than civic war. 
Proscribed the bard, whose name for evermore 
Their children's children would in vain adore." 

In the Piazzi S. Croce, is erected the magnifi- 
cent public monument to Dante. On a lofty 
pedestal stands a colossal statue of the poet, 19 feet 
high. It was inaugurated on the 14th May, 1865 ; 
— the 600th anniversary of the birth of the poet. 

What a sad-looking face, is that of the author 
of the " Divine Comedy " ! l^ever have we looked 
upon such a downcast, dejected, gloomy, marble 
e^gjj as this one, now before us. Why so sad ? 
Was it his early — but unrequited — love for Bea- 
rice, that so changed the countenance of this gifted 
Florentine ? Of her death, he tenderly speaks : — 

''Why mourn ye not, as through these gates of woe 
Ye wend along our city's midmost street. 
Even like those who nothing seem to weet 
What chance hath fall'n, why she is grieving so? 

If ye to listen but awhile would stay, 

Well knows this heart, which only sigheth sore, 
That ye would then pass, weeping on your way. 

Oh hear ; her Beatrice is no more ! " 

Her smiles were joy to his soul : her very look, 
thrilled the Italian poet :— 
13 



298 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

" I spake : and on me straight 

Beatrice look'd, with eyes that shot forth sparks 

Of iove celestial: Yet blank awe, 

Which lords it o'er me, even at the sound 

Of Beatrice's name, did bow me down 

As one in slumber held. Not long that mood 

Beatrice sufFer'd ; she, with such a smile, 

As might have made one blest amid the flames, 

Beaming upon me, thus her words began." 

If not sorrow for Beatrice, then was it grief oc- 
casioned by the fiery temper of his wife ^^Gemma/^ 
that so troubled the unhappy poet ? To both he 
makes allusion. In the Inferno R. speaks thus: — 

" And myself, ■ 

Who in this torment do partake with them. 

Am E ci, whom, past doubt, my wife, 

Of savage temper, more than aught beside 
Hath to this evil brought." 

His wife's temper pushed him down to Purgatory. 
Dante, — ^r ejected by the beautiful Beatrice, 
and afterwards accepted by the fretful, and fero- 
cious Gemma, — could be none other, than a sor- 
rowful man. And how many '^ long '^ faces there 
are— not in marble — revealing an inner sadness, 
inspired by similar causes ! Many mourn the loss 
of a Beatrice; while others are joyless, because a 
Gemma has been found. If, 

" 'Tis better to have loved and lost, 
Than never to have loved at all," 

Then, how much ^^ better y^ when the "lost'' one, 



LOVED AND LOST. VALLOMBEOSA. 299 

is '^of savage temper/' and wlio^ to the home, 
only "evil " brings? 

The distance from Florence to Rome, is 230 
miles. On Saturday, July 25th, at 5-40 a.m., 
our train — dismissed as usual, by both steam 
Avhistle, bell and bugle, — rolls out of the depot. 
A thunderstorm, has just swept over the Penin- 
sula ; and the rain drops, smitten by the morning 
sunbeams, sparkle upon tree and flower. The 
valley of the Arno, refreshed by genial showers, 
is sweet with fragrance. The swollen stream, 
dashes swiftly along its winding pathway, rejoic- 
ing in its newly acquired strength. On our left, 
is the mountain chain of Pratomagno, and the 
monastery of Vallombrosa. The monastery, which 
was founded by S. Giovanni Gualberto, about the 
year 1050, has been suppressed ; and the build- 
ings are now occupied by a royal school of forestry. 
The dense forests, that girdle the Apennines in 
the vicinity of the old monastery buildings, shower 
autumnal leaves upon the murmuring brooks, and 
furnish the poets with beautiful imagery. 

" He scarce had ceased, when the superior fiend 
Was moving toward the shore ; . . . . and call'd 
His legions, angel forms, who lay entranced 
Thick as autumnal leaves that strow the brooks 
In Vallombrosa, w^here th' Etrurian shades 
High overarch'd imbow'r : — " 

Here is Arezzo, one of the ancient, and once 



300 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

powerful cities of Etruria. In this city, Msecenas, 
the friend of Augustus, and the patron of Virgil 
and Horace, was born. How frequently college 
students, who have never seen that *^ patron '^ of 
the poets, scan Maecenas when reading the Odes 
of Horace ! The luxuriant valley of the Chiana, 
now lies before us. And yonder sparkles Lago 
Trasimeno, surrounded by olive-clad slopes. The 
train rolls swiftly over the Sanguinetto, or ''stream 
of blood/' This was the scene of a bloody battle, 
fought June 23d, 217 B. C. Hannibal, having 
crossed the Apennines, pressed on towards Kome, 
leaving the Eoman Army at Arezzo. The Con- 
sul, C Flaminius, pursued the bold African in- 
vader ; but the crafty Hannibal, so arranged his 
forces, that Flaminius was surrounded, and 15,000 
Romans killed, — -including the Consul. During 
the battle, the streams flowing into the lake were 
red with blood ! Livy, — lib. xxii. — in one of 
his peculiar sentences, presents a vivid picture of 
this terrific struggle. And to-day, in the foot- 
steps of Hannibal, 2,100 years after the battle, 

" I roam 
By Thrasimene's lake, in the defiles 

Fatal to Roman rashness, more at home ; 
For there the Carthaginian's warlike wiles 
Come back before me, as his skill beguiles 
The host between the mountains and the shore, 

Where carnage falls in her despairing files. 
And torrents, swollen to rivers with their gore, 
Reek through the sultry plain, with legions scattered o'er," 



LAKE THRASIMENE. HANNIBAL's VICTORY. 301 

But neitlier Roman, nor Carthaginian, disturbs 
the tourist in his happy wanderings along the 
shining shores of this lovely lake. How peace- 
ful, and how beautiful the scene ! 

" Far other scene is Thrasimene now ; 

Her lake a sheet of silver, and her plain 
Rent by no ravage save the gentle plough ; 

Her aged trees rise thick as once the slain 
Lay where their roots are ;" — 

Yonder, crowning an eminence, and commanding 
an extensive view of the valley of the Tiber, is 
Perugia, — the capital of the Province of Umbria. 
In this city, Pietro Perugino, the founder of a new 
school of painting, and master of Raphael, lived. 
And in the chapel of S. Severo, Raphael's first 
fresco may still be seen. Our train now rolls 
over the Tiber. On the left is Assisi, the birth- 
place of Francis, the founder — in 1208 — of the mo- 
nastic order of the Franciscans. He died in 1226 ; 
and in 1228, was canonized by Gregory IX. Dante, 
in the ^' Paradise/' eulogizes this pious monk : — 

" The lovers' titles— Poverty and Francis, 
Their concord and glad looks, wonder and love, 
And sweet regard gave birth to holy thoughts. 
So much, that venerable Bernard first 
Did bare his feet, and, in pursuit of peace 
So heavenly, ran, yet deem'd his footing slow." 

We are now sweeping through the lovely and 
luxuriant valley of the Clitumnus. How beauti- 



302 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

ful the scene; and how well deserving of the 
praise of the poets from Virgil to Byron ! 

" But thou Clitumnus ! in thy sweetest wave, 

Of the most living crystal that was e'er 

The haunt of river nymph ; . . . . thou dost rear 

Thy grassy banks whereon the milk-white steer 

Grazes ; the purest god of gentle waters ! 

And most serene of aspect, and most clear ; 

Surely that stream was unprofaned by slaughters, 

A mirror and a bath for beauty's youngest daughters !" 

A striking and attractive feature of this Italian 
landscape, is the olive-yards, that give their pecu- 
liar olive-green coloring to these sunny and slop- 
ing heights. These olive groves wave for miles 
along the iron track, and climb the hills, the sum- 
mits of which are crowned either by historic cities, 
ancient castles, or venerable church edifices. The 
houses in these cities, are erected terrace-like, and 
the highest ground is always occupied by a church. 
Is not the church of Rome in America, planting 
her standards upon the hill tops ; and does she 
not point with pride to the conspicuous positions 
occupied by her schools, seminaries, and churches ? 
Are not the most valuable lots, on the most beau- 
tiful and commanding sites, in scores of- our 
western cities, owned by this organization ? Italy ^s 
example is being successfully imitated by the 
American Roman Catholics ; and we admire their 
forethought, and sagacity. 



OLIVE GARDENS. CHURCHES ON THE HILLS. 303 

On our left is TernI, — the birth-place of Tacitus ; 
and Narni, where the Emperor Nerva, and Pope 
John XIII., were born. And before us, like an 
earthly paradise, the magnificent valley of the Ner- 
va appears. We are now whirling over a treeless, 
billowy, and barren plain. The scene is cheerless, 
and desolate. Can it be possible that we are ap- 
proaching the city of Rome ? Surely, ^neas guided 
by the lovely Venus, would have chosen a more 
beautiful site, for the founding of such a city. But 
yonder are the historic Sabine, and Alban moun- 
tains ! Behold the ruins that dot the plains ! 

" The Niobe of nations ! there she stands, 

Childless and crownless, in her voiceless woe ; 

An empty urn within her withered hands, 
Whose holy dust was scatter'd long ago ; 

The Scipio's tomb contains no ashes novY ; 
The very sepulchres lie tenantless 

Of their heroic dwellers : " 

Our polite and dark-eyed conductor shouts, — 
Koma! And stepping upon Roman soil, we are 
warmly welcomed by a score of charioteers, who, 
with whip in hand, stand ready to do our bidding. 



CHAPTER XIII. 



ROME TO TURIN. 

" Oh Rome ! my country ! city of the Soul ! 

The orphans of the heart must turn to thee, 

Lone mother of dead Empires ! 

Alas, for TuUy's voice, and Virgil's lay, 

And Livj-'s pictured page ! Come and see 

The Cypress, hear the owl, and plod your way 

O'er steps of broken thrones and temples ; 

The Goth, the Christian, time, war, flood, and fire, 

Have dealt upon the seven-hill'd city's pride ; 

She saw her glories, star by star expire, 

And up the steep, barbarian monarchs ride. 

Alas ! the lofty city ! and alas 

The trebly hundred triumphs ! dost thou flow 

Old Tiber ! through a marble wilderness ? 

Else, with thy yellow waves, and mantle her distress !" 

And is this the city of Romulus and Remus ; 
Csesar and Cicero ? Is this the home of popes, 
and the scene of martyrdoms ? It is difficult to 
realize, that before us, set in a frame-work of 
mountains — the Apennines, Sabine, and Alban, 
304 



ROME. SEVEN HILLS. THE TIBER. 305 

and the ridge of Soracte — and divided by the 
turbid Tiber, is the Rome of history, poetry, 
prophecy. 

But this is the city, founded more than 700 years 
before the birth of Christ, to which, in the lan- 
guage of Virgil, universal empire — '^imperium 
sine fine " — was promised by Jupiter, — the father 
of gods and men ! This is the " Eternal City.'^ 
These are the ^' Seven Hills ; " and yonder glit- 
ters the shining dome, that crowns St. Peter's ! 
With what inexpressible delight we take a seat in a 
Roman chariot, and roll past the Villa xllbani, and 
through the Via Sistina, to the Piazza di Spagna ! 
Rome is situated — 40° north latitude — in a 
billowy plain on the banks of the Tiber, 14 miles 
from its influx into the Mediterranean. This 
historic river, springing from the Apennines and 
rolling 200 miles southward, enters Rome sweep- 
ing round the base of Mount Pincio ; and, after 
describing three curves, flows onw^ard to the sea, 
quitting Rome as it glides past Mont Aventino. 
On the left bank rise the famous ^' Hills;'' — 
Celio (125 feet), Aventino (155 feet), Capitolino 
(161 feet), Palatino (170 feet), Viminale (170 feet), 
Exquilino (188 feet), and the Quirinale (141 feet). 
On the right bank, are Mts. Vaticano and 
Gianicolo, (260 feet). The river is spanned by five 
bridges, the Ponte S. Angelo — leading to the 
13* 



306 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

tomb of Hadriaiij the Vatican, and St Peter's, on 
the right bank — being built by Hadrian in the 
year 136. 

Rome is surrounded by a wall 12 miles long, 
and 50 feet high. This brick wall was built by 
the Emperor Aurelian, about the year 270. 
The city is entered by twelve gates. The popu- 
lation of ancient Rome was — according to some 
writers — about three millions ; that of Rome to- 
day is estimated at 220,000. Hence, the area 
covered or occupied by modern Rome, is not co- 
extensive with that of ancient Rome. Ancient 
Rome climbed the far-famed ^' hills;" but these 
hills are to day, to a great extent, uninhabited. 
Here and there along these depopulated and de- 
serted heights, stand majestic ruins pointing back- 
ward to the time, when millions crowded through 
the 423 streets, and 37 gates, of the imperial city. 
Some few of the streets are wide and straight ; but 
the larger number are narrow, and — very oblig- 
ingly — run in every possible direction. 

In appearance, Rome differs from all the cities 
thus far visited. The ancient and modern are 
here brought face to face. The monuments of the 
past confront the structures of the present. The 
Theatres, Baths, and Colosseums, of two thousand 
years ago, representing the wealth of nations, and 
pride of kings, stand over against the edifices of 



CONTRASTS. PAGAN AND CHRISTIAN TEMPLES. 307 

recent erection, and of less imposing dimensions. 
Crowning the desolate hills, and spanning the an- 
cient thoroughfares, are triumphal arches, which, 
in massive grandeur and beauty of ornamentation, 
outrival all modern competitors. Lofty columns 
decorated with exquisitely sculptured figures, and 
designed to perpetuate the memory of pagan con- 
querors, are now crowned with effigies of the Apos- 
tles, and cast their shadows upon miserable 
dwellings, tenanted by the ignoble and the base. 
Obelisks, chiseled thousands of years ago on the 
banks of the Nile, and dedicated to Egyptian heroes, 
decorate either the public market-place, or adorn 
fountains of quite modern construction. Marble 
pillars that once upheld temples consecrated to 
heathen gods, stand lonely and yet grandly, senti- 
nel-like, along the public highways. Public build- 
ings, and private residences, are erected upon the 
sites and foundations of ancient palaces. 

But nowhere are the contrasts so striking, as in 
the sacred edifices. Here, the ancient and the 
modern, the pagan and the Christian, clasp hands 
and unite in friendly fellowship. Pillars and 
porches that once adorned the temples of heathen 
divinities, now decorate the Roman Catholic 
churches. Occasionally, the union is productive 
of most happy results; but frequently presents 
the most singular incongruities. These decorations, 



308 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE, 

borrowed or stolen from heathenism, instead of 
adding beauty to the Christian edifice, mar the 
symmetry of the structure. This varied scene — 
of the ancient and the modern, pagan and Chris- 
tian, beauty and deformity, in such close proximity, 
— makes Rome, as seen from one of the '^ Seven 
Hills,'^ the most picturesque city in Europe. 

But for a closer inspection and a better appreci- 
ation of these ruins, churches, and palaces, let us 
wander leisurely along these streets, and over those 
^'Hills.'^ 

Monuments. Ruins. In the Piazza Colonna, 
adjoining the Corso— the Chestnut street of Rome 
■ — stands the '^ Column of Marcus Aurelius.'' This 
was erected to commemorate victories over the 
Germans, and is beautifully embellished with 
'^reliefs," and crowned by a statue of St. Paul. 
Trajan s Column, in the Forum of Trajan, is 158 
feet hiffh, and 36 feet in circumference. This was 
erected to celebrate the conquest and submission of 
the Dacians. It is most elaborately ornamented. 
In addition to the representations of machines, 
and figures of animals, there are more than 2500 
human effigies, each averaging two feet in height. 
These march spirally around the column from the 
base to the summit. And this singular and sculp- 
tured stony procession of victorious Romans, and 
vanquished Dacians, is " headed '^ by no less a 



ROMAX FORUM. WHERE CICERO THUNDERED 309 

personage, than the peaceful St. Peter ! This 
monument was formerly surmounted by a statue 
of Trajan, but is now crowned by a shining efRgy 
of the crucified Apostle. 

Passing through the Via di Araceli, we climb 
the Capitolino. On the right is the '^ Tarpeian 
Mock/' from which in ancient times the condemned 
were hurled. Before us is the Forum Romanum. 
In the days of Rome's supremacy, the Forum 
presented a busy scene. In this place, the popular 
assemblies were harangued by Roman orators; 
and judicial proceedings conducted by distin- 
guished lawyers. And here are magnificent monu- 
ments, pointing to those ages of imperial sway. 
Eight granite columns belonging to the Temple of 
Saturn, erected 491 B. C, three columns from the 
Temjjie of Castor and Follux, erected 496 B. C, 
the Colonnade of the twelve gods, and the 
Triumphal Arch of Septimius Severus, erected to 
commemorate victories over the Parthians and 
Arabians, greet the eye. 

And here is the Rostra, or orators' tribune. 
How many political and patriotic speeches were 
delivered from this tribune, by distinguished ora- 
tors, to delighted crowds of enthusiastic Romans ! 
But how changed the scene to-day. If Cicero 
were to reappear this afternoon, and again ascend 
this " Rostra," with what emphasis would he re- 



310 WANDEKINGS IN EUEOPE. 

peat the words — -O tempora, mores — thundered 
in the ears of Catiline, and in the presence of the 
Roman senate. How the '' times and customs '^ 
have changed, since in the Temple of Jupiter 
Stator on yonder Palatino, this matchless orator 
confronted the bold conspirators ! Columns, tem- 
ples, palaces, are alike in ruins. And the present 
shiftless and lazy frequenters of this historic place, 
what '^ degenerate sons of nobje sires ^' ! 

To the left, along the Sacra Via, are the three 
colossal arches of the Basilica of Constantine. 
These arches are of vast span, and served as mod- 
els in the construction of the vaulting of St. Peter's. 
We now pass beneath the '^ Arch of Titus." 
This was erected to commemorate the victory over 
the Jews, and the destruction of Jerusalem, in 72. 
It is embellished with some fine sculptures, — rep- 
resentations of sacrificial and triumphal proces- 
sions, the table with showbread, and a seven- 
branched candelabrum. The sculptured figures of 
captive Jews, and the Roman conqueror crowned 
with victory, are quite conspicuous. Climbing 
the slopes of the Esquilino, we visit the Thermae 
of Titus, and the golden palace of Nero. An 
attendant with lighted torch, conducts us through 
a number of gloomy apartments once fitted up in 
the most costly and luxurious style. And in the 
flickering light of this Roman candle, we catch 



NEEO'S GOLDEN HOUSE. THE COLOSSEUM. 3J 1 

glimpses of those beautiful frescoes and paintings_, 
that served as models for Raphael more than 300 
years ago^ and that have decorated this once royal 
mansion for nearly 2000 years. 

But here is the Colosseum. What a magnificent 
structure ! How completely it overshadows the 
numerous arches, and temple ruins, by which it is 
surrounded! By dropping a few soldi into the 
open hand of the watchman, we enter, climb 
some 100 steps, clamber over huge blocks of 
stone held together by iron clamps, and after 
reaching the summit, enjoy the finest possible view 
of the ruins, and one of the grandest views of an- 
cient Home. The Colosseum is elliptical in shape, 
a third of a mile in circumference, and over 
200 feet high. The building, when completed, 
was inaugurated by gladiatorial combats, and the 
most cruel and bloody exhibitions. 100 days were 
devoted to these services of dedication, and 5,000 
wild animals were slaughtered for the amusement 
of the 87,000 guests, invited to this feast of blood. 
The 1000th anniversary of the foundation of 
Rome, was here celebrated with great pomp by the 
Emperor Philip, in 248. 

Yonder, is the gateway through which the royal 
chariot thundered. Here, are the tiers of " re- 
served " seats, along which jewels flashed, and from 
which proud matrons cheered the struggling gladi- 



312 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

ators. And far below, is the broad pavement so 
often stained with blood of martyrs, when Roman 
Christians were torn to pieces by wild and rave- 
nous beasts. 

" His faithful liearl, a bloody sacrifice, 

Torn froru his breast, to glut the tyrant's eyes." 

We shudder as in the light of history we look 
down upon this arena, — this place where murder 
was applauded in the very presence of the Emperor. 

"And here the buzz of eager nations ran, 
In murmur'd pity, or loud roared applause, 
As man was slaughtered by his fellow-man." 

Descending, we visit the regions beneath the 
amphitheatre, — now being excavated. The stones 
used in the erection of the substructure are of 
immense size, and the foundations are like those 
of the ^'everlasting mountains." Some of the 
finest palaces in Rome, have been constructed 
from materials furnished by the " quarry '^ of the 
Colosseum. 

" A ruin — yet what ruins ! from its mass 
Walls, palaces, half cities have been rear'd." 

And the travertine-stone in the ruin now before 
us — only a third of the original structure — has 
been valued at $2^500,000, for, simply, building 



ARCH OF COKSTANTINE. THE SHINING CROSS. 313 

purposes ! Pope Benedict XIV. by consecrating 
the interior of the building to the ^' Passion of 
Christ,'^ in memory of the martyrs slain upon the 
arena, prevented any further thefts, on the part of 
Roman "contractors." The Colosseum is by no 
means destitute of vegetable life. An industri- 
ous botanist, has collected no less than 423 species 
of plants among the ruins. At all times and 
seasons, this symbol of Roman greatness appears 
grand ; — 

" But when the rising moon begins to climb 

Its topmost arch, and gently pauses there ; 

When the stars twinkle through the loops of time, 

And the low night-breeze waves along the air 

The garland forest, which the gray walls wear, 

Like laurels on the bald first Caesar's head ; 

When the light shines serene, but doth not glare, 

Then in this magic circle raise the dead ; 

Heroes have trod this spot — 'tis on their dust ye tread." 

Turning slowly away from this majestic pile, 
we wander along the Via di S. Greo:orio, passing 
under the Triumphal Arch of Constantine. This 
was erected to commemorate the victory over 
Maxentius in 312. The battle was fought at 
Saxa Rubra, a few miles distant from Rome ; and 
by the defeat of Maxentius, Constantine became 
sole ruler in the West. It was while marching 
to this scene of mortal strife, that Constantine is 
said to have beheld in the sky, the brilliant form 



314 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

of a cross^ inscribed with the blazing legend — Hoc 
Signo Vinces — By This Sign Conquer. He won 
the battle; accepted Christianity; promulgated the 
Edict of Milan in favor of religious toleration ; 
and became the first Christian Emperor. The 
arch is ornamented with sculptures taken from a 
triumphal arch of Trajan. 

Turning to the right, we gain admittance to the 
Palatine Hill. This is the site of the ancient city 
of Eome. Here Romulus dwelt. On this '^Hill/' 
Cicero and Mark Anthony resided ; and along 
those sunny heights, the costly and magnificent 
palaces of Tiberius and Caligula were erected. 
Recent excavations have revealed many of the an- 
cient landmarks, and resurrected several of the 
entombed imperial edifices. This is the wall built 
by Romulus, — perhaps 2500 years ago ! Here are 
marble mosaic pavements, marble balustrades, and 
broken fountains that once adorned the palaces of 
the Csesars. And before us are the ruins of the 
temple of Jupiter Stator, in which Cicero delivered 
those flaming speeches against Catiline. Descend- 
ing to the ^^DomusTiberiana," excavated in 1869, 
we find the walls of the house decorated with the 
most beautiful paintings. These mural paintings 
represent sacrificial scenes, landscapes, heathen di- 
vinities, glass vases, fruits, &c. Some of the walls 
are painted in three different colors, — brown, red, 



IMPERIAL PALACES. HOUSEHOLD GODS. 315 

and green. Wandering along the west slope of 
the hills, we enter the ''Psedas-omum.'^ The walls 
of this ^^sch()ol-house '^ are covered with the scrib- 
blings of ambitious^ or indolent pupils, who doubt- 
less blunted the point of many a ^' stylus," in thus 
defacing the old school-room. And the whittling 
and scribbling boy is not dead yet. Palaces may 
crumble and kings die, but this boy never dies. He 
still whittles at desks and benches; carves his pro- 
file in blocks, to show what a block-head he is ; 
scribbles his name on chamber walls, railroad cars, 
pillars and posts, bibles and hymn books. Times 
and customs change, but that big, lazy, ambitious 
whittlcr and scribbler, never changes. 

Here is an altar dedicated to the unknown God; 
and yonder is a grotto, where the wolf found 
shelter, after suckling those historic, or legendary 
twins, — Romulus and Remus. This marble altar 
is adorned with figures of the Lares, or Roman 
house-hold gods ! We enter the throne room ; and 
inspect the apartment where the Emperor's deci- 
sions were announced to the waiting assemblies. 
Some writers and antiquarians declare, that in 
this once magnificent chamber, the Apostle Paul 
stood in the presence of the Emperor. Probably 
from this very apartment, then adorned with the 
purest marbles, and most brilliant paintings, that 
heroic man went forth to martvrdom. 



316 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

Retracing our steps, we wander leisurely along 
the celebrated ^^ Via Appia/' in the direction of 
the Thermce of Oaracalla. On the right is the 
Cloaca Maxima. This was built more than 2000 
years ago, for the purpose of draining the Forum. 
In the construction of this screat *^ sewer,'' the 
"arch^^ first made its appearance in Roman archi- 
tecture. On the left near the Porta S. Sebastiano 
is the Tomb of the Solpios. Here, in a sarcopha- 
gus of peperine-stone, the bones of L. C. Scipio 
were found, 2000 years after that distinguished 
Roman had been buried. What a brave battle 
with the tomb ! The Baths of Caracalla, are 
among the finest of the Roman ruins. Within 
these towering walls, once resplendent with shin- 
ing marbles and beautiful statues, 1600 bathers 
were furnished with apartments fitted up in a style of 
royal magnificence. Here are the rooms, in which 
1600 years ago proud Romans enjoyed the luxu- 
ries of a tepidarium and frig idarium, — a hot and 
cold bath. And here are beautiful mosaic pave- 
ments, from which we find it difficult to extract a 
small marble memorial of this afternoon's visit. 
Certainly, the pavers who laid this flooring in the 
days of imperial Rome, might well be imitated by 
^^contractors'' in some republican cities. 

Returning from this suburban excursion, we 
visit the '' Theatre of Marcellus" ! Is there any 



VISITING THE THEATRE. CAPITOL MUSEUM. 317 

harm in attending the Theatre ? If a church 
member may visit such a place, why may not a 
preacher? Who are the particular '' stars " shin- 
ing through the ^' scenes/' and shedding light from 
the ^^ boards" upon a benighted audience? Ah, 
what a change for the better, both in the *^ actors'' 
and ^^ spectators " ! Sturdy blacksmiths swing the 
hammer over red hot iron; and scores of busy 
Romans shut their eyes against the shooting sparks. 
This building was erected by Augustus, 13 B. C, 
and could accommodate 20,000 people. The arches 
are now tenanted by industrious blacksmiths ; and 
the " scene " before us is much purer than those 
demoralizing "spectacles," that so hastened the 
destruction of Rome, by corrupting the hearts of 
its citizens. Would that all the theatres on the 
face of the globe were transformed into smitheries, 
and all the roving bands of " fancy," perfumed 
^' artists," employed in swinging the sledge, or ham- 
mering iron ! 

^ Palaces. Museums. The Capitol museum con- 
tains many novelties, and numerous relics of past 
ages. Climbing the ornamented asphalt-stairway, 
we reach the famous Piazza del Campidoglio. 
This piazza, with its varied and elaborate orna- 
mentation, was designed by Michael Angelo. Here 
are the statues of Marcus Aurelius, andConstantine; 
the groups of Castor and Pollux ; the Senatorial 



318 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

palace; palace of the Conservatori ; and Capitoline 
Museum. In the Conservatori, occupying a con- 
spicuous position are statues of Romulus and 
Remus ; here also^ is the bronze ^^ Capitoline Wolf.'^ 
The bronze was thus shaped 2200 years ago. In 
the museum we find the famous statue of the 
^' Dying Gladiator.'^ How the struggle between 
life and death, is represented in that chiselled 
form ! 

" I see before me the gladiator lie ; 

He leans upon his hand — his manly brow 

Consents to death, but conquers agony, 

And his droop'd head sinks gradually low — 

And through his side the last drops ebbing slow 

From the red gash, fall heavy, one by one, 

Like the first of a thunder shower ; " 

Here also, are statues and busts of the emperors 
and philosophers. How character is discovered 
even in marble faces. And what demons incarnate 
some of the emperors must have been, if these 
imperial effigies are " striking '' portraits. What 
savage cruelty is disclosed in this stony face of 
Caracalla ! Certainly the beautiful face of the 
*^ Capitoline Venus/^ upon which we now gaze, is 
much more attractive than this ugly portrait bust 
of that cruel emperor. 

The Palace of the Vatican. Paintings. Statuary. 
The palace of the popes, communicating with the 



GUAEDS. VATICAN PALACE. SISTINE CHAPEL. 319 

Basilica di S. Pietro^ is the most extensive palace 
in the world. It is 1277 feet long; has 20 courts, 
and 1 1,000 apartments. Having secured a card of 
admission to this magnificent residence of Pius IX., 
we hasten over the Ponte S. Angelo, past the 
Mauseleo di Adriano, and through the Borgo 
Nuovo, and Piazza Rusticucci. At the extremity 
of the colonnade, we are confronted by the Swiss 
guards. These brilliantly costumed zouaves polite- 
ly bow to the ^'permit '^ we present, and point out 
the Scala Regia, by which we may ascend to the 
Sixtine Chapel. This edifice was erected by Pope 
Sixtus IV. in 1473. It is 132 feet long, 45 feet 
wide, and is adorned with most magnificent paint- 
ings by Michael Angelo, and other distinguished 
^' masters." The walls are decorated with scrip- 
tural scenes. One of these is " The Baptism 
of Christ," by Perugino. In this painting, the 
artist represents the Saviour as standing upon dry 
ground. Certainly, RaphaeFs master was not a 
good baptist. The ceiling was painted by Michael 
Angelo. The artist, by these numerous paintings, 
seeks to represent the preparation for the coming of 
the Messiah. We have, in sections appropriately 
grouped, representations of the successive scenes in 
the creative work; the leading events recorded in 
the O. Testament ; the prophets Jeremiah, Eze- 
kiel, Isaiah, Daniel, Jonah ; and various histo- 



320 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

rical characters alluded to in the Bible. What a 
magnificent procession of events and illustrious 
personages is thus pictured along the ceiling of 
this famous chapel ! 

The altar wall, is adorned with the celebrated 
painting of the '' Last Judgment.'' It is 64 feet 
wide, and covers 900 square feet of canvas. In 
the execution of this painting, Michael Angelo 
spent eight years, and when it was completed in 
1541, the artist was just sixty years of age. 
Both in the figures, and the grouping, it resembles 
that '^ largest painting in the world," — -Tintoretto's 
Paradise, in the Doge's palace, Venice. These 
distinguished artists teach the Roman theology. 
And the peculiar doctrines of this ancient church, 
are most brilliantly pictured upon the glowing 
canvas. While gazing upon these beautiful crea- 
tions of one, who was truly great as ^' architect, 
sculptor, and painter,'^ we are suddenly startled 
by the quick tramping of feet, and the loudest and 
most joyous laughter. What does it mean? 
Nearer and nearer come those strange foot-falls, 
and louder and louder grow these commingling 
and somewhat discordant sounds. '^ Is it a pilgrim 
band '^ hastening to kiss the toe of ^^ his holiness," 
and lay rich treasures at the feet of Peter's suc- 
cessor ? Certainly not. Pilgrims, would march 
with slow and solemn step into the presence of 



YANKEE MAIDEXS. HAPPY VOICES. 321 

the only '^ Infallible" mortal. And these laughing 
voices are those of females ! Can it be that some 
of the numerous nunneries are enjoying a holiday, 
and that the " sisters ^' are rushing from their prison 
houses, to the beautiful and fragrant ^' II Bosca- 
reccio/^ to enjoy an "audience^' with the Pope? 
This cannot be. Pious and reverential nuns would 
neither step so hastily, nor laugh so loudly within 
the sacred precincts of the Vatican. 

But here they come — all the way from New 
England — some twenty merry Yankee maidens ! 
Through the ornate portals of the famous '^Sixtine," 
they rush as wildly, as if it were the rustic gate- 
way leading to some rural playground. This is 
''Young America" abroad, — independent, inquis- 
itive, not excessively reverential, and somewhat 
indifferent to the traditions of the past. And 
never did this venerable edifice shadow such a 
joyous, happy, mirthful band, as is now marching 
up and down beneath its gorgeously decorated 
ceiling. And how delighted these maidens 
appear to be, at the scenes before them. And 
this spectacle is novel. Such a company of an- 
gels, and cherubs, as decorate these walls, can only 
be seen in the Sixtine chapel. And to what ex- 
pressions of admiration, and delight do we listen : — 
'' O what a beautiful angel '^ ! '' See the dear little 
cherub"! ''What a nice little head"! "How 
14 



322 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

cunning"! "Charming creature 'M "What a 
sweet little fellow 'M All those epithets, that so en- 
rich the school girl's vocabulary^ and adorn the com- 
positions of these poetic maidens, are most lavishly 
and lovingly applied to those creations of Michael 
Angelo. And if those lovely forms were not so 
long — for 300 years — attached to the consecrated 
walls, we should expect to see them leap to the 
floor, and respond to these affectionate salutations. 
But these happy tourists, under the guidance of a 
lady of uncertain years, pass from our presence, 
and we continue our ranibles " solitary and 
alone." 

Passing from this chapel where popes are elected^ 
and some of the most gorgeous ceremonies of the 
Roman church celebrated, we proceed to the Loggie 
and Stanze of Raphael. Here in the "Loggie," 
is Raphael's Bible, — a series of fifty-two paintings 
representing O. and N. Testament subjects. In 
the " Stanze," we find the ceilings and walls orna- 
mented with paintings and frescoes, representing 
Biblical and mythological scenes. The school of 
Athens, in which the artist seeks to represent the 
various schools of ancient philosophy, and their 
distinguished representatives, is a most admirable 
painting. Pythagoras, Anaxagoras, Democritus, 
Socrates, Plato, and Aristotle, are placed upon ih^ 
canvas in company with Zoroaster, Ptolemses, and 



Raphael's pictures, yatican museum. '323 

Archimedes. In this '^ school/' we also find paint- 
ings of both Raphael and his master, Perugino. 
This is the only portrait of Raphael that we have 
seen thus far in our wanderings. 

In the Stanze S. Eliodoro, are beautiful paint- 
ings of Moses at the burning bush ; Jacob's vision; 
the Sacrifice of Isaac; and the liberation of Peter. 
In the picture gallery is exhibited the far-famed 
" Transfiguration, ^' the Madonna of Foligno, and 
coronation of the virgin, — by Raphael. How beau- 
tiful are the portraits painted by this '' master.'^ 
Truly, we take no note of time, while gazing upon 
these marvelous creations of this inimitable artist. 
Some of Raphael's most brilliant works were 
executed at the age of 25. He died April 6th, 1483, 
at the early age of 37 ; and found a last resting 
place in the church consecrated to the martyrs — the 
Roman Pantheon. 

The Vatican 3Iiiseum. This, in its collection of 
sculptures in marble, and celebrated antiques, is 
the finest in the world. We wander leisurely and 
inquisitively through a corridor 39 feet wide, and 
2263 feet long. A good beginning is it not ? 
And after surveying the thousands of objects that 
adorn this lengthy corridor, we walk through an- 
other apartment 530 feet long. How beautiful are 
the frescoes that shine along these walls ; and what 
an array of busts stare at us from stately pedestals ! 



324 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

But another door springs open, and another gal- 
lery 320 feet in length, invites us to continue our 
'^ wanderings." Stimulated by the somewhat plea- 
sing reflection, that possibly the last ''collection" 
is now before us, we carefully inspect the various 
objects, that are so tastefully arranged along this 
marble highway. What fineness of material, 
beauty of form, exquisite workmanship, and elab- 
orate ornamentation are here exhibited ! But an- 
other saloon — only however 238 feet long — beckons 
us forward, and we continue our march. Our pen- 
cil now needs sharpening, and the white pages of 
our note book, are rapidly diminishing. 

In the museums visited, are statues and busts of 
emperors, poets, warriors, heathen gods and god- 
desses, in black and red granite, green basalt, and 
purest Parian marble ; beautiful marble basins ; 
dancing satyrs in porphyry ; charming marble 
flower baskets ; brilliant sculptured triumphal pro- 
cessions; marble fiery steeds attached to glittering 
marble chariots; curious and costly mosaics; stat- 
ues by Praxiteles ; a gilded bronze statue of Her- 
cules 12 feet high ; the sarcophagus of Scipio, in 
which the bones of that distinguished Roman were 
found in 1780 ; sarcophagus of Constantia, daugh- 
ter of Constantine, beautifully decorated with vin- 
tage scenes ; silver goblets and golden ornaments ; 
chains, rings, and wreaths, exhibiting the most 



BEAUTIFUL STATUES. POPE's GARDEN". 325 

ingenious and exquisite workmanship — found in 
ancient Etruscan tombs; terra cotta sarcophagi, 
with life-size figures of the deceased chiseled on 
the covers ; and alabaster cinerary urns, where the 
ashes of cremated heroes were, doubtless, once de- 
posited. 

"His scattered limbs with my dead body burn, 
And once more join us in the pious wr?i." 

But the doors of a dozen other galleries are 
swung open ! We are bewildered in the presence 
of such treasures of art; and our heads grow 
heavy, in attempting to carry so many marble stat- 
ues in remembrance. How many miles w^e have 
travelled since entering the museum we know not, 
but, wearied and fatigued, we seek a temporary re- 
lief in gazing upon the '11 Boscareccio, or garden 
of the Vatican. What, if we should see the Pope 
granting an audience to some pious pilgrims ! 
Might he not interpret our wistful look, as a de- 
sire to return to the dear old " mother church "? 
And would he not immediately dispatch a red 
hatted cardinal to welcome us to the "fold " of which 
he is the only and true shepherd ? And his love 
for the great republic of the west, so pure, and un- 
selfish, would it not incline him to grant us '^ abso- 
lution " for the past, and, for the present, a ^' special 
indulgence '' to remain in the museum for the pur- 



326 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

pose of more carefully and critically inspecting 
these marvels of art ? But the Plus old man is 
not to be seen ; we are not favored with a glance 
of his " twinkling eye; " we are not dazzled with 
a glimpse of the shining tiara ; and the soft, sweet, 
odorous breeze, that fans our cheek, does not con- 
vey to our open and willing ears the faintest jingle 
of the keys of St. Peter. 

Somewhat disappointed, but exceedingly re- 
freshed, we enter the Cortile di Belvedere. Here 
is the famous Laocoon group. What an exciting 
marble picture is this, of the '' father and his two 
sons entwined by the snakes 'M Michael Angelo 
regarded it as a '^ marvel of art.'^ 

"Go see 
Laocoon's torture, dignifying pain — 
A father's love and mortal's agony 
With an immortal's patience blending ; vain 
The struggle ; vain, against the coiling strain 
And gripe, and deepening of the dragon's grasp, 
The old man's clench !" 

A little further along we find the Apollo 
Belvedere. What beauty, dignity, and majesty 
in this statue of Carrara marble ! If the 
Pope's limbs were as shapely and shining as 
those of this marble divinity, that dear old man 
would not so frequently sigh for '^ a new pair of 
legs." In this graceful statue we may deliberately 



CHUECHES. KELICS. CATACOMBS. 327 

" View the lord of the unerring bow, 
The god of life, and poesy, and light— 
The sun in human limbs array'd, and brow 
All radiant from his triumph in the fight." 

Churches and Catacombs. There are in the city 
of Rorae 300 church edifices. The popnlatioii is 
about 225,000. Church accommodation in Rome 
is far in advance of the population. Spiritual 
guides are quite numerous. There are 6,000 
clergymen, and 5,000 nuns. As the ^^sisters '' 
are diligent promoters of the spiritual interests 
of the people, they may, properly, be classed 
as guides, instructors. Then, for the spiritual 
guidance of every twenty-one individuals — men, 
women, and children — within the limits of the 
Eternal City, there is either a priest or a nun! 
And these willing priests, and faithful nuns, per- 
form their labors, and discharge their duties, under 
the eye of an infallible pope ! What a magnifi- 
cent army : what an able commander ! With these 
hundreds of churches, ornamented with purest 
marbles, and embellished with the loveliest Ma- 
donnas; with these thousands of carefully-trained 
and thoroughly devoted nuns and priests ; and 
with this most experienced and infallible leader, 
the church in Rome should be most successful in 
turning men from sin to holiness. And yet, if the 
truth be told, the millenium has not even dawned 



328 WA^^DERINGS IN EUROPE. 

upon this historic city. Of tlie 300 churches, a 
few may be named, and briefly described. 

S. Prassede, was dedicated 1000 years a^o, to 
the daughter of St. Pudens, with whom Peter 
lodged when at Rome (?). S. Maria in Trastevere, 
is erected where an oil spring welled forth when 
the Saviour was born (?). S. Maria Sopra Minerva, 
is erected on the ruins of a temple dedicated by 
Pompey to Minerva. This is said to be the only 
Gothic church in Rome. The paintings, frescoes, 
and monuments in this church are very fine. 
Here, we find magnificent monuments erected to 
the memory of Leo X. and Clement YII. — the 
two Medicis. S. Maria in Araceli, is erected on 
the site of a heathen temple, and is famous for its 
Christmas services. In one of the chapels, a 
manger is fitted up at Christmas. In this manger, 
a brilliantly-decorated image of the Infant Jesus 
— il santo bambino — is exhibited. And during 
Christmas week, children assemble in this chapel 
for the purpose of praying to this image ! S. 
Pudenziana, is a comparatively small edifice. It 
is said to be the most ancient church in Rome, 
and is erected on the spot where once stood the 
house of Pudens, with w4iom Peter lodged. We 
look upon this old edifice with feelings akin to 
veneration. Peter, if he ever visited Rome, may 
have accepted the hospitalities of the excellent 



Peter's home, baptizing animals. 329 

Pudeiis, and enjoyed the pleasant society of the 
maidens, Praxedis and Pudentiana. After preach- 
ing the gospel to the unconverted, and when 
"wearied by excessive labors, he may have slowly 
climbed the Yiminale, and quietly rested in the 
home of these kind friends. S. Croce in Jeru- 
salem me, was erected by S. Helena. There are 
numerous relics carefully preserved in this church; 
and conspicuous among these sacred treasures are 
" the Inscriptions on the Cross," brought from 
Jerusalem by St. Helena. S. Maria Maggiore, is 
360 feet long, and 150 feet wide. It occupies a 
conspicuous position, and presents an imposing 
appearance. The nave is supported by 36 marble 
pillars ; and the paintings and frescoes are beauti- 
ful. Here, are bronze statues designed by Angelo, 
and the splendid monuments of Popes and Cardi- 
nals. The relics are numerous. The remains of 
St. Matthew, and five boards from ^^ the manger," 
are the most highly prized. We look wistfully 
into the Chapel del Crocefisso, but the " boards " 
are not exposed to vulgar sight. In the piazza, a 
singular scene is witnessed from January 17th. to 
January 23d. In front of the little church of S. 
Antonio, domestic animals of all kinds are sprinkled 
with holy water, and blessed ! Even the Pope's 
horses are baptized ! 

Passing the Colosseum, and walking a consid- 
11* 



330 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE, 

erable distance along the Via di S. Giovanni, we 
visit the flimous S. Giovanni in Laterano. This 
was once the principal church of Rome. Until 
the removal of the Papacy to Avignon, in 1305, 
the popes resided in a palace adjoining this church. 
This edifice is 408 feet long ; the nave is guarded, 
by colossal statues of the twelve apostles ; the 
transept is decorated with brilliant frescoes ; four 
columns of gilded bronze adorn the great altar ; 
and the tribune is embellished with beautiful mo- 
saics. The relics in this church are certainly re- 
markable — a wooden table once used by St. Peter ] 
and the heads of the apostles Peter and Paul. In 
close proximity to the Lateran is the Scala Santa, 
This stairway consists of 28 marble steps. It was 
brought from Pilate's palace at Jerusalem to Rome 
by the Empress Helena, in 326. Those wishing 
to climb it may do so, but only on the knees. 
The Pantheon is now visited. This building was 
erected 27 B. C, and presents a most imposing 
appearance. The portico consists of 16 granite 
columns; the edifice is circular in form, and the 
roof is a semi circular dome, 144 feet in diameter. 
There are no windows ; the interior is illuminated 
by an aperture in the centre of the dome. The 
floor is of different colored marbles. This strangely 
formed, and peculiarly enlightened, ancient edifice, 
was, as its name indicates, dedicated to all the 



PANTHEON. Peter's chains exhibited. 331 

gods ; and these niches where altars now stand, 
were once occupied by statues of heathen divinities. 
In 610, it was consecrated to the Virgin Mary and 
all the Martyrs, by Pope Boniface IV. And in 
commemoration of this notable event, the festival 
of "All Saints'^ was instituted. It is known 
as the Church of Santa Maria Rotonda. It is, 

''Simple, erect, severe, austere, sublime- 
Shrine of all saints, and temple of all gods, 

* * * "^ spared and blest by time ; 
Looking tranquility, while falls or nods 
Arch, empire, each thing round thee, and man plods 

His way to thorns, to ashes — glorious dome ! 
Shalt thou not last? Time's scythe and tyrants' rods 
Shiver upon thee — sanctuary and home 
Of art and piety — Pantheon ! pride of Eome !" 

Here is Raphael's tomb. It is not quite as 
costly and imposing a monument as that of Michael 
Angelo, in Santa Croce, Florence. The S. Pietro, 
in Vinculi, contains the statue of *' David," by 
Michael Angelo, and the chains which bound St. 
Peter. The chains are annually exhibited to the 
" pious,'^ on the 1st day of August. This being 
the day, the church presents a very attractive ap- 
pearance. The monks show excellent taste in 
decorating the church ; but their efforts to dazzle 
the "pious'' are poorly appreciated. Few are 
present. Advancing to the altar, we " lay hands '^ 
upon the chains exhibited. They are certainly 



332 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

strong enough to bind any saint; but that Peter 
was ^' bound '^ by these "two chains/^ Ave cannot 
affirm. S. Ignazia in Gesu — the principal church 
of the Jesuits — is gorgeously decorated. The 
walls are covered with polished marbles; the ceil- 
inofs adorned with beautiful frescoes ; and the 
altars glitter with lapis lazuli and gilded bronze. 
Beneath the altar of S. Ignatius, repose the re- 
mains of Loyola, the founder of the order of the 
Jesuits, to whom this church is dedicated. A 
memorial service is annually held in honor of this 
most remarkable man. We attend this celebration, 
and witness a most brilliant church pageant. The 
edifice is crowded with the better class of Romans 
clad in holiday attire; twenty-one glass chan- 
deliers, each holding ten lighted candles, illum- 
inate the building; 290 wax-candles blaze upon 
and around the highly ornamented altar; a 
'^picked" choir of some twenty famous Italian 
singers, assisted by a splendid organ and well 
trained band, furnish the grandest music; red- 
robed, youthful friars ma ch through the building 
in solemn procession ; and dignified ecclesiastical 
functionaries, with heads closely shaven, long, 
beardless faces, and richly embroidered, glittering 
garments, bow the knee and swing the censer. 
The scene is impressive, grand. What a forcible 
appeal to the senses, and the imagination, yea, even 



ST. Peter's, kissing the statue. 333 

to the heart! In this church there is a beautiful 
monument to Cardinal Bellarmino, the celebrated 
Roman Catholic theologian. 

The S. Pietro Vatican o adjoins the Palace of 
the Vatican. The piazza in front of the church is 
1000 feet long, and 625 feet broad. In the centre 
of this piazza stands the great obelisk — weighing 
nearly a million pounds — brought to Rome by 
Caligula, while on either side rise the imposing 
serai-circular colonnades, formed by 88 buttresses^ 
284 columns, and surrounded by 126 colossal 
statues of departed saints. The fagade is 379 
feet long, 152 feet high, and ornamented with 
statues — 19 feet high — of Christ and the Apostles. 
The portico is 236 feet long, 42 feet wide, QS feet 
high, and guarded by statues of Constantine and 
Charlemagne. The interior of the building is 628 
feet long and 209 feet wide ; the dome rises 318 feet 
above the roof, and is 652 feet in circumference ; 
and the cross surmounting the dome is 465 feet 
from the pavement. The edifice covers an area of 
212,321 square feet; has 46 altars, 290 windows, 
370 statues, and 748 columns. The interior of 
the dome is embellished with figures of the four 
Evangelists, in mosaic. These are of large dimen- 
sions — the pen held by St. Luke is 7 feet in length ! 
Beneath the dome is the bronze canopy, over 100 
feet high ; under the canopy is the richly decorated 



334 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

high altar, and under the high altar the *' Tomb 
of St. Peter/' A beautiful statue of Pius YI.— 
in the attitude of prayer — guards the sacred 
enclosure where 89 ever-burning lamps shed a 
^'dim religious light '^ upon the Apostle's tomb. 
The aisles^ transepts and chapels contain splendid 
monuments erected to the popes; the floors and 
walls are of purest marble ; the ceilings are gor- 
geously gilded, and the largest and most brilliant 
mosaics beautify the altars and the dome. We 
wander through the ^' hall of the Ecumenical 
Council/' where the Pope was declared infallible; 
gaze upon ^^ Mary with the dead body of Christ 
upon her knees," one of Michael Angelo's cele- 
brated sculptures; pay a visit to the tomb of 
Gregory the Great ; inspect the monument of 
Palestrina, author of the " Miserere ; '' and stand 
amazed in presence of the bronze statue of St. 
Peter. The right foot of this statue is almost 
worn away by the pious kissings of enthusiastic 
devotees ! What a humiliating spectacle in this 
noble, grand, majestic edifice! Above us, in 
shining mosaic, we read, ^' Tu es Petrus et super 
banc petram sedificabo ecclesiam meam et tibi dabo 
claves regni c^elorum.'' This is the Latin Vulgate 
translation of the Greek, in Matthew, 16th. chap., 
18th. and part of the 19th. verses. But was Peter 
ever at Rome? Upon this question the authorities are 



COST OF ST. peter'6. ixdulgences. 335 

about equally divided. And until these historians 
and controversialists shed more light upon the 
subject, we will continue believing that Peter 
visited this city. As no other locality claims him, 
and as the traditions crucify him on the site of the 
church S. Pietro in Montorio, we accept, for the 
present, the '^traditions.'' But if Peter were to 
reappear this afternoon, with what sorrowful sur- 
prise would he gaze upon this himzen facz ; and 
how quickly would he order the Pope — his pre- 
tended successor — to cast out this relic of pagan- 
ism, and inscribe Exodus 20th. ch. 4th. and 5th. vs., 
upon the doors and walls of this most magnificent 
temple. St. Peter's, was completed in 1614; cost 
$60,000,000; and will accommodate 50,000 people. 
The annual expense is $30,000. Here, popes are 
crowned, and saints canonized. And what bril- 
liant processions of gorgeously robed ecclesiastics 
have marched through yonder brazen doors, along 
those broad aisles, over this smooth marble pave- 
ment, under the lofty dome, and around this glit- 
tering shrine of the patron saint! And what 
thrilling music has resounded through these lofty 
arches, w^hen the grand pealing organ, and the 
trained papal choir, have united in the tender and 
pathetic ^' Miserere'' ! This church was, in a meas- 
ure, the cause of the Eeformation. When Tetzel, 
preached and peddled his shameless " indulgences" 



336 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

for the purpose of raising money to erect the church, 
Luther protested ; and Luther's protest convulsed 
Europe, and emancipated millions from the papal 
yoke. This was the noblest service St. Peter's ever 
rendered the church of Christ. 

Catacombs. We had read of these underground 
abodes of the early Christians, where centuries 
ago, in the dark days of persecution, the living 
found a refuge in the homes of the dead. We 
select the Catacombs of St. Calixtus. Here, a 
number of the popes were buried, and under the 
auspices of Pius IX., many important discoveries 
have recently been made. These grounds are on 
the celebrated Via Appia, several miles beyond the 
walls of the city. A wave of the hand summons 
a Roman cab, and having described the route to 
the dark -eyed driver, we are off at a gallop. Our 
chariot rolls through the Piazza of St. Peter, along 
the western bank of the Tiber, over the Ponte 
Sisto, and onward to the Porta Sebastiano. On 
either side rise the majestic ruins of ancient 
Rome. 

We have now passed beyond the walls, and are 
rolling over the Campagna. The scenery is grand, 
inspiring. The billowy Campagna stretches 
away toward the blue Mediterranean. Here and 
there, lonely arches of ancient aqueducts, and hoary 
ruins of tombs and temples greet the eye. In the 



CATACOMBS OF ST. CALIXTUS. 00/ 

distance rise the Sabine and Alban mountains, so 
frequently mentioned in the annals of Ancient 
Rome. Historic memories are being rapidly 
revived^ when suddenly our coachman halts, and 
in j)leasing Italian, points out the catacombs of 
St. Calixtus. A few sad-looking cypresses, and a 
small brick building mark the entrance to this 
sacred place. The keeper, who is present, con- 
ducts us to the gloomy stairway by which the 
descent is made. Just at this point our courage is 
tested. We are alone; our guide is an utter 
stranger ; the tombs are — said to be — sixty feet 
beneath the surface. And to see them, we must 
descend with this guide — our pathway illuminated 
by the flickering light of a wax taper ! What, if 
this tiny torch should expire? What, if the guide 
should prove treacherous when we reach those 
subterranean labyrinths ? Such thoughts trouble 
us for a moment, but the martyr spirit prevails^ 
and we slowly and cautiously descend. The 
descent safely effected, our explorations are begun. 
The galleries or passages are from three to five feet 
wide, seven or eight feet high, and run, apparently, 
in all directions. In the sides of these galleries 
small recesses are excavated ; these served as tombs, 
and rise tier above tier, like berths in a ship. In 
one of these galleries we count five or six succes- 
sive tiers of graves. When the interment took 



338 WANDERINGS IN EUKOPE. 

place the grave was covered with a marble slab, 
on which was inscribed the name of the deceased. 
Our guide leads us backward and forward through 
c|uite an extent of these intricate and involved 
subterranean passages; and many interesting places 
are pointed out, and historical facts stated. Here 
is a chamber of considerable size, containing the 
tomb of Sixtus II., who died a martyr in 258. 
Yonder is a marble slab inscribed, ^' Cornelius, 
Martyr.'' Passing through another gallery, w^e 
enter an apartment in which there are a few good 
frescoes, and some very fine mosaics. Here is a 
well-preserved likeness of Cyprian, looking mourn- 
fully dow^n upon the inquisitive tourist, and 
seemingly charging us to remember our latter end. 
In another chamber, quite large, and evidently in- 
tended as a place of worship, are tombs, elaborate in- 
scriptions, and numerous symbolical representations. 
As we wander through these tortuous galleries, 
looking upon these tombs, and reading those 
inscriptions, we experience strange emotions. The 
silence so profound ; the darkness so intense ; and 
the memories so exciting ! We feel as if standing 
upon holy ground. Here the oppressed and per- 
secuted saints fled for refuge ; here they sang the 
praises of their newly-found Redeemer; and here 
they rested Avhen their earthly pilgrimage ended 
— perhaps 1,600 or 1,700 years ago ! 



NUMBER OF CATACOMBS. ST. PAUL's CHURCH. 339 

There are more than a score of these catacombs 
in the vicinity of Kome; and if all these winding 
and intricate chambers were placed in a straight 
line, they would extend nearly 600 miles. Some 
writers estimate the number of interments in these 
catacombs as high as 6,000,000. From the in- 
scriptions and representations upon the walls and 
tombs in the catacombs, many suggestive truths 
respecting the early Christians are learned. Peter's 
primacy is not asserted. Mass for the dead is not 
mentioned. Celibacy is not enjoined. Divine 
honors to the Virgin Mary are not prescribed. 
" Resting in Peace," is everywhere symbolized. 

But the usual circuit has been made, and allotted 
time spent, and we return to the light of day. 
Our guide is well-informed, affable, patient. He 
listens to all our inquiries, and explains with great 
fullness. A slight addition to the usual compensa- 
tion lights up his sombre countenance, and with a 
cheerful smile and graceful wave of the hand, he 
bids us farewell. 

We return to the city by the Via di St. Paolo. 
On this road, quite a distance beyond the walls, 
and in the most unhealthy suburb of Pome, is 
erected the magnificent church dedicated to the 
Apostle Paul. On this precise spot, according to 
tradition, the Apostle was buried. The church is 
superbly decorated. It is paved with pure, polished 



340 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

marble; and, above the cokirans, we count 173 
portrait medallions of the pope?. These are in 
mosaic, each five feet in diameter. Two colossal 
marble statues of Paul and Peter guard the tran- 
septs. On the roadside, further along, a little 
chapel indicates the place where Paul and Peter 
bade each other a last farewell. On our left is the 
Protestant cemetery, and the pyramid of Cestius, 
117 feet high. We pass through the gate of St. 
Paul, under the very arch, we presume, that 
shaded the heroic martyr. 

The Career llamertinus was used as a prison 
in ancient times. Here Jugurtha and Catiline's 
confederates perished. Some twenty poor and 
ignorant Romans, are kneeling inside the en- 
trance. The custodian, with lighted torch, con- 
ducts us down to the lower chamber. The 
place is well suited for a prison, and our guide 
points out the narrow, dark cell, where many a 
condemned criminal awaited the axe of the 
executioner. But in this low, dark, underground 
chamber Peter and Paul were, it is said, impri- 
soned. Here is a well which Peter caused to flow, 
in order to baptize the converted jailor; on the 
wall is a bronze relief, representing Paul praying 
and Peter baptizing ; close to the stairway is a 
stone, against which Peter leaned, and on which 
he left the impress of his cheek ! At that time Peter 



THE GHETTO. SCENE ON MT. PINCIO. 341 

must either have had a very ^Miarcl cheek, '^ or this 
stone must have been very soft. We wander 
through the Ghetto, where the Jews have lived for 
centuries. What a foul and filthy place ! How 
very much like the ^' five points" in New York 
city ; and yet what remarkably beautiful faces have 
these little ragged sons and daughters of Abraham. 
Marching past the colossal ''Horse Tamers" in 
marble, we knock at the gate of the Quirinal Pal- 
ace, but the '^ Roman soldier " will not allow us 
to enter. King Victor Emanuel, and Prince 
Humbert, have occupied the building since Sep- 
tember 20th, 1870. Passing the church of S. 
Maria del Popolo, erected on the very spot where 
the cruel Nero was buried, we ascend by a 
winding roadway, Monte Pincio. This little park 
— formerly the celebrated gardens of Lucullus — 
situated at the extreme north-western part of the 
city, and beautified by shady trees, and shining 
busts, commands a most magnificent view of Rome 
and the surrounding country. Here, the plebs and 
patricians promenade. It is the '^ Hyde Park " 
of Rome. Through the Corso, up the winding 
road ornamented on either side with beautiful 
statues, and sparkling fountains, the carriages 
move to the Pincio in grand procession. The 
brilliant circle of costly equipages, the splen- 
didly robed and princely ecclesiastics, the richly 



342 WANDERINGS LN EUROPE. 

dressed and haughty Roman matrons, the bro- 
therhood of Dominican and Franciscan friars, 
clad in garments of singular shape and different 
colors, the tastily attired, and stately ^' Roman 
citizen/^ proud of his Sabine ancestry, and crowds 
of picturesquely costumed peasants, pass before us 
in review. If you wish to see the Rome of to-day^ 
yon must climb the Pincio, when the sinking sun 
sets the domes on fire, and Victor Emanuel's 
trained band discourses patriotic music, in the 
presence of ^' free and united '^ Italy. 

The Sabbath-day in Rome, is quiet. There is 
little traffic. The people go to church, and then 
go promenading. The band plays in the evening 
at the Pincio, and the Piazza Colonna; and hither 
thousands flock to sip wine, and listen to the 
music. The churches are by no means crowded. 
From what we have seen, we fully believe that 
the Roman catholic churches are better attended 
the farther they are removed from the Eternal 
City. The pope's influence is more potent with 
the Irish, than with the people of Rome. Dis- 
tance, does certainly in this case 'Mend enchant- 
ment to the view," taken of his holiness. 

But the vesper bells are sweetly ringing ; and 
'^ when in Rome," we must ^'do as the Romans," 
Passing the Collegio di Propaganda Fide, in which 
students representing different nationalities are 



VISITING THE PROTESTANT CHURCHES. 343 

educated as missionaries, and the monument 
erected by Pius IX., in commemoration of the 
doctrine of the ^^ immaculate conception/^ crowned 
with a bronze statue of the Virgin Mary, we 
climb the ^' Spanish staircase,'^ and enter the church 
of S. Trinita de' Monti. Some sixty "sisters'^ 
and young maidens, wearing long white veils, 
march in solemn procession to the pews in front of 
the altar. A nun presides at the sweet-toned organ. 

" Her face was veiled ; yet to my fancied sight, 
Love, sweetness, goodness, in her person shined." 

The choral service is performed by the ^'sisters ;'^ 
and the singing is, without exception, the sweetest 
of the kind to which we have ever listened. 

But, thanks to the battalions led by Garibaldi, 
and to the presence of King Victor, there are other 
church services than Roman, within the gates. In 
the afternoon we visited the English church, out- 
side the Porta del Popolo; and now from the 
Trinita, we proceed to make a tour of the Protes- 
tant churches. A young Englishman, the Rome 
correspondent of several London journals, leads 
the way. It is now dark, and through the narrow, 
crooked by-ways we w^ander in search of the saints. 
In the vicolo soderini, we find the Waldensian 
church. Matteo Proche is the pastor. There are 
thirty persons in attendance. They are well 
dressed, and look quite intelligent. Old and young 



344 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

stayid while prayer is being offered, and at the 
close, every voice repeats distinctly and emphati- 
cally the Amen, This we believe is apostolic. 
The Italian Free church occupies a nice room — 
third floor back. This is Rev. (Father) Gavazzi s 
church. There are seventy present. At the 
service in the English Wcselyan Methodist 
church, there are between sixty and seventy in at- 
tendance. The preacher Sciarelli — a converted 
monk — is a noble-looking Roman, and a splendid 
speaker. In a little room, in a side street, we find 
fourteen persons attending a " branch '^ of the 
Waldensian church. Prochet and Gavazzi are both 
absent. This is the season for " summer vacation." 
Possibly they are *' recruiting" along the breezy 
heights of Soracte, or ^' recuperating " on the Sabine 
or Alban mountains. Their congregations, consid- 
ering the localities of the churches, and the summer 
heat, are respectable in size. Both preachers and 
people are converts from the Roman church. And 
it is said that multitudes are awaiting a favorable 
opportunity to join the ranks of the protestants. 
To be successful in the work of evangelizing Rome 
and Italy, there must be unity among those who 
labor. Italy, to-day, is politically united; the 
Roman Catholic church is, ecclesiastically united ; 
and these Roman converts cannot comprehend why 
there should be such division and disunion among 



EXCURSION TO NAPLES. MO^TE CASINO. 345 

their newly found friends. Money given to sustain 
purely sectarian missions is partly thrown away. 

Naples is distant from Rome about 164 miles. 
The train rolls southward through the Nuova 
Porta, and onward over the Campagna. The desert 
plain is dotted w-ith tombs, and broken arches 
of ancient aqueducts. On our left rise the Alban 
hills, and on the right the Volscian mountains. 
Along the valley of the Sacco, past Segni, Frosi- 
none, Ceprano, and through the broad and fertile 
Liris w^e are rapidly whirled. The mountains 
climb on either side to a height of 4,000 feet. 
Yonder is Aquino, the birth-place of Juvenal and 
Thomas Aquinas. Beyond Germano, on a lofty 
eminence commanding a charming view of the fer- 
tile valley, is the celebrated monastery of Monte 
Casino. This institution was established by St. 
Benedict, the founder of the Benedictines, in 529, 
on the site of a temple dedicated to Apollo. The 
library is said to be rich in rare manuscripts, — 
some of these Mss., dating as early as the 6th cen- 
tury. At the station, w^here we halt for a few^ min- 
utes, the scene is exceedingly grotesque and amus- 
ing. Men with sandaled feet, swathed legs, red 
neck-ties, and blue girdles ; w^omen robed in gaud- 
iest garments, with pink, orange, and purple colored 
head-dress, stare at us wonderingly, and inquisi- 
tively. Mountaineers with flowing grey mantles, 
15 



346 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

leathern leggings, felt hats, long ^' raven locks/' and 
piercing black eyes, come galloping through the 
glens on spirited ponies. In form, movement, and 
dress, these Italian rustics closely resemble the 
Irishman of Connemara. They look like brigands, 
or banditti. 

And as the mountain region surrounding us is 
infested with robbers, doubtless these very horse- 
men belong to the fraternity of freebooters. The 
placCj and the people, suggest those beautiful lines 
in Dante, descriptive of the pious labors of the 
sainted Benedict : — • 

'' In old days, 
That mountain, at whose side Cassino rests, 
Was, on Its height, frequented by a race 
Deceived and ill-disposed : and I it was, 
AVho thither carried first the name of Him, 
Who brought the soul-subliming truth to man." 

Along the route, towns and villages climb the 
sloping hillside, and castles and churches crown 
the shining heights. Men are threshing in the 
open air ; and horses attached to central posts are 
marching around a circular track, treading out the 
corn. These fields are most fertile and luxuriant. 
Two crops of grain, and one of fodder, may be 
gathered in a single season. Through Capua, 
where Spartacus marshalled the gladiators 73, B. 
C, and Caserta, with its palaces, beautiful gar- 
dens and sparkling fountains, our train thunders. 



NAPLES. CASTEL S. ELMO. STREET SCENES. 347 

when lo, the smoking summit of Vesuvius looms 
up grandly in the East, and before us the magnifi- 
cent bay of Naples glitters in thegolden sunlight! 
Naples, has a population of 500,000. The situ- 
ation is beautiful. The city, built on sloping 
ground, along the N. side of the somewhat semi- 
circular bay, assumes an amphitheatre-like form. 
It extends east and west three miles, and north 
and south two and a quarter miles. The view 
from CastelS. Elmo — erected in 1343, and 900 feet 
above sea level — is magnificent. Eastward, with 
Herculaneum and Pompeii at its base, rises ML 
Vesuvius; along the south-east, Monte Santangelo, 
5000 feet high, shelters the towns of Lubrense, 
Castellamare, and Sorrento ; westward, M. Posi- 
lipo. Capo di Miseno, and the island of Ischia 
greet the eye ; while in front, guarded by the 
shining isle of Capri, is the far-famed bay of 
Naples. The houses are high ; the streets, except- 
ing a few wide avenues, are narrow and without 
sidewalks. The Strada di Roma — the Chestnut 
street of Naples — is the most crowded street we 
have seen since leaving London. The activity of 
these Neapolitans is surprising. Carriages roll 
rapidly through the streets, the drivers cracking 
their whips in search of passengers ; light wagons 
whirl alono; bearino; fruit and veo-etables to market ; 
donkeys, burdened with heavy loads of purple 



348 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

grapes and juicy lemons, march in files led by pic- 
turesquely costumed peasants ; barefooted peddlers, 
pace the streets advertising their wares with loud- 
est shouts and liveliest gestures ; beggars with 
outstretched hand, and piteous plea, pursue their 
fleeing victims, and never halt until the soldi 
jingle upon the pavement. Along the narrow 
lanes, amid braying donkeys, blatant liawkers,and 
ragged urchins, men and women are cooking and 
eating I In some respects these scenes remind us 
of the '' colored" quarter in Philadelphia; but the 
jovial Ethiopian must yield the palm to the 
hilarious Neapolitan. The procession along the 
" Chiaja," in the afternoon and evening, is quite 
brilliant. This road skirts the sea, and is the 
favorite ^' fashionable " drive. We have not seen 
so many, nor such costly equipages since leaving 
Hyde Park, London. 

As we approach Virgins Tomb, daylight disap- 
pears ; and in turning toward the city, the scene, 
in the twilight hour, is both beautiful and grand. 
Yonder, emitting sulphureous smoke, is the dreaded 
Mt. Vesuvius : along the eastern coast rise the 
lofty Santangelo, while at its base, the fires of Cas- 
tellamare and Sorrento are being kindled ; around 
the shelving, curving shore, quickly flash the 
blazing lamps; and suddenly, a crescent of spark- 
ing jets encircles the beautiful bay, from Messino 



THE BAY. TWILIGHT. MOONLIGHT. MUSIC. 349 

to HerculaDeum ! And now, the full orbed moon 
climbing above the mountains shines upon the 
waters ; tiny craft, freighted with joyous, happy 
youth, flit phantom-like over the silvery wave ; 
while tender melodies, sung by sweet Italian 
voices, are wafted over the rippling tide by even- 
ing zephyrs, and greet the ear, like music from 
'' that other shore." Entering the park, orna- 
mented with shady trees and shining statues, we 
find two splendid bands, alternately playing ; hun- 
dreds of handsomely dressed men and women 
promenading; and cafes, brilliantly illuminated, 
crowded with men and women sipping coifee and 
light wines, enjoying sweet "ices,'^ and '^Nea- 
politan cream." Here, are all classes, all sexes, 
including friars black, and friars gray^ — a merry, 
joyous crowd. 

'' Eing Victor in. The land sits free 
And liappy by the summer sea, 
And Bourbon "Naples now is Italy I 
A new life breathes among her vines 
And olives, like the breath of pines 
Blown downward from the breezy Apennines." 

The Museum, exhibits bronzes, mural paintings, 
and papyri discovered in the ruins of Herculaneum 
and Pompeii. These paintings are very beautiful ; 
and the papyri reveal the methods of book making, 
with bark, 2000 years ago. And here is a loaf 



350 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

found at Pompeii and stamped with the baker's 
name — Q. Cranius. How few loaves have lived 
through seventeen centuries! But we must ,see 
this resurrected city. A ticket is purchased, and 
the train rolls along the coast. The road is cut, 
in some places, through lava streams 40 feet thick 
and 200 feet wide ! On our left is smoking Vesu- 
vius, on the right is the shining bay. We stop at 
E,esina. Beneath us — 119 feet — are the ruins of 
Herculaneum. This Hercules-worshipping city 
was destroyed by the eruption of 79. It was dis- 
covered in 1719 ; and in one of the disentombed 
houses, a papyrus library of 3000 rolls was found. 
Our train sweeps onward and halts at Pompeii. 
Having paid an admission fee of 40 cents, we are 
conducted leisurely through this resurrected city, 
by an intelligent guide. Along the street of the 
Tombs, through the Forum, and temple of Venus, 
we wander. Here, is the residence of the tragic 
poet; and this is the house of Sallust; and now we 
enter the villa of Diomedes. In this building, 17 
bodies were found. The streets are paved with 
blocks of lava; the houses are built of brick and 
stone ; the rooms are small, have no glass windows, 
but the walls are decorated with paintings in most 
brilliant colors. Our excursion takes us through 
barber-shops, taverns, bake-houses and various re- 
tail establishments. In the museum, four bodies 



MT. VESUVIUS. POMPEII. HERCULANEUM. 351 

found in 1863, are exhibited In glass-cases. One 
of these is that of a girl, with a ring on her finger 
— worn 1700 years ! About 600 bodies have been 
taken, thus far, from the ruins. These were found 
in various localities, and in striking and suggestive 
attitudes. Some were attempting to carry off their 
treasures; others just locked the doors, and fell 
with keys in hand ; and the Koraan soldier — brave 
man — stood petrified at his post ! What fear and 
anguish seized the hearts of men ; what cries for 
help were heard along these streets ; what mortal 
agonies endured within these courts, when the 
loud thunder startled the air, the vivid lightnings 
illuminated the sky, and the burning lava billows 
rolled down the quaking mount, and over this 
wicked and devoted city ! The heat to day is in- 
tense, terrible. Affrighted tourists have fled north- 
ward weeks ago, and we will wander no further 
south. After dining at the hotel Diomede, the 
north bound train comes thundering from Salerno, 
and with ticket in hand, we '^step on board '^ 
homeward bound ! The distance from Pompeii 
to Pisa is 380 miles ; the route lies through Rome, 
Civita Vecchia, and along the shores of the blue 
Mediterranean. The ride for 200 miles in sight 
of these shining waters is delightful and re- 
freshing. Elba, Napoleon's island prison, is 
visible. The towns of Follonica and Cecina are 



352 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

passed, and onr train halts at the city of the lean- 
ing tower. 

Plsaj is situated on the river Arno, six miles 
from the sea. The marble Cathedral, with its 
sixty-five ancient Greek and Roman columns, 
richly gilded ceiling, bronze angels, exquisitely 
carved stalls, shining mosaics, and beautiful altar- 
paintings, is a stately edifice. In the nave swing- 
ing from the ceiling, we find " Galileo's bronze 
lamp.'' The swaying of this lamp is said to have 
suggested to Galileo the idea of the pendulum. 
The marble Baptistery, is a circular structure 100 
feet in diameter, and crowned by a dome 190 feet 
high. It has an hexagonal pulpit and octagonal 
font, both beautifully ornamented. The Leaning 
Tower — 13 feet out of the perpendicular — complet- 
ed in 1350, rises in eight stories to the height of 
179 feet. 294 steps climb to the summit, where 
seven bells — the heaviest weighing six tons — star- 
tle the air by their pealings. The Campo SantOy 
founded in 1200, is quite a unique burying-ground. 
It was formed of earth — 53 ship loads — brought 
from Mt. Calvary. Inclosing tiiis grave-yard is 
a structure, 138 yards long, 57 yards wide, and 48 
feet high. In the interior, surrounding the green 
quadrangle, is a large hall. This hall has beauti- 
fully arched windows; the walls are decorated with 
numerous paintings; the pavement is formed of 



PISA. LEGHORN. THE MEDITERRANEAN. 353 

tombstones; and numerons monuments are erected 
to the memory of illustrious personages. Here is 
a most beautiful monument to Ansjelica Catalari. 
An angel figure unrolls a marble scroll, on which 
is traced the inscription " Eleemosyn?e tu?e comme- 
moratse sunt/' Alas, how many die, and leave no 
kind deeds to be remembered ! In returning to 
the railroad station we visit the market place, and 
quay. Scores of sturdy men are lazily lounging 
along the Lung 'Arno, and the old city — once the 
rival of Venice and Genoa, and the conqueror of 
the Saracens at Tunis and Palermo — is as quiet as 
if it never ruled the Mediterranean. 

'' Xot a shout from gladsome children, or the clatter of a 

wheel, 
iSTor the spinner in the suburb, winding his discordant reel, 
Nor the stroke upon the pavement of a hoof nor of a heel ; 
Even the slumberers, in the church yard of the Campo 

Santo seemed 
Scarce more quiet than the living world that underneath 

us dreamed." 

But a sail upon the Mediterranean is on the pro- 
gramme, and we hasten to Leghorn to charter a 
steamer. This city has a population of 100,000 ; 
the squares are large and the streets well paved. 
In the evenings, the ])rincipal thoroughfares 
present a scene of great animation ; and in the 
early morning, our slumbers are disturbed by the 
musical shoutings of venders of macaroni. The 
15* 



354 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

distance from Leghorn to Genoa is about one hun- 
dred miles. Our vessel proudly steams through 
the Porto Nuovo, and we joyously float on the 
waveless waters. The sunset is gorgeous. Signal 
fires blaze along the shore. The lights of Carrara, 
Spezzia, and Chiavari brightly burn. In the 
clear blue sky, the stars shine with wondrous 
brilliancy. How beautiful is this night upon the 
Mediterranean ! We pace the deck, gazing upon 
sea, sky and shore. Our enjoyment is complete. 
Suddenly, a light from the tower — 520 feet high 
— flashes over the harbor, and rising from the sea, 
the city of marble palaces greets us through a veil 
of mist. 

" Rise Genoa, rise in beauty from the sea. 

Rise peerless in thy beauty ! What remains 
Of thy old glory is enougli for me, 

And breathe, ye orange groves, along her plains, 
Ye fountains, sparkle through her marble fanes." 

Genoa, is the chief commercial city of Italy. 
It has a population of 130,000 ; and the situation 
is most charming. There are a number of wide 
thoroughfares, flanked by massive and imposing 
structures. These marble palaces beautifully or- 
namented with statues^ paintings, and mosaics; 
those blooming gardens, sparkling fountains, and 
perfume breathing bowers; the orange groves wav- 
ing along the sunny heights ; and the shining sea 
flecked with spreading sail, compel us to look and 



GENOA. MONUMENT TO COLUMBUS. TUEIN. 355 

linger. In this pretty piazza stands the marble 
monument to Columbus. It was erected in 1862, 
and is crowned by a statue of the immortal mari- 
ner. And yonder is the palace once occupied by 
the discoverer of America. The church of S. 
Lorenzo is crowded this morning. Thirty glass 
candelabra, holding 480 burning candles, shine 
upon a motley crowd. Peddlers, crouching beg- 
gars, and richly dressed, stylish Genoese, bow side 
by side before the blazing altar. This feature of 
Romanism we admire. We find no ^' reserved 
seats'^ for the man " with a gold ring in goodly 
attire." When will Protestants cease pushing the 
poor into the dark corners and dusty galleries? 
The remains of John the Baptist, brought from 
Palestine by the crusaders, are said to be pre- 
served in one of the chapels. 

At Genoa, we take the cars for Turin — distant 
about one hundred miles. Up along the moun- 
tain to a height of 1200 feet, through wild, rocky 
ravines and eleven smoky tunnels, over noisy 
mountain streams, in sight of crumbling castles 
and flashing cascades, we are safely borne. The 
fertile plains of Lombardy are before us. Our 
train rolls past Alessandria, near the battle field 
of Marengo, and enters the former capital of 
Italy, as the dinner bells are merrily ringing. 

Turin, is situated in a beautiful plain, on the 



365 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

banks of the Po. This northern Italian city has 
a population of 208,000; and in the uniformly 
wide and straight streets — running at right angles 
■ — reminds us of Philadelphia. Bronze and marble 
statues adorn the public squares. Here is a beau- 
tiful monument, erected in 1873, to Count Cavour. 
This distinguished statesman was born in Turin. 

The Cathedral contains the burial chapel of the 
Dukes of Savoy, and the handsome monument of 
Maria Adelaide, Queen of Victor Emmanuel. 
In the Academia della Scienze, we find the cele- 
brated papyrus with the annals of Manetho, dis- 
covered by ChampoUion. The university boasts 
of 1500 students; and the library contains over 
200,000 volumes. 

We visit the church of the Waldenses. It is a 
beautiful building ; and the first erected since the 
establishment of religious toleration. There are 
no statues, no paintings. The pulpits and pews are 
of black walnut; and on the pulpit lamps are 
inscribed the suggestive words, Lux lucet in tene- 
hris. 

In the eleventh century the Waldenses separated 
from the ''Mother Church." Excommunicated by 
Popes, condemned by Councils, they have survived 
the bitter persecutions of their enemies, and, in the 
lovely Piedmont valleys, worship God with Apos- 
tolic simplicity. In the erection of this beautiful 



WALDENSES. MT. CENIS TUNNEL. PASSPORTS. 357 

Protestant edifice, may we not see an answer to 
Milton's prayer : 

'' Avenge, O Lord, thy slaughtered saints, whose bones 
Lie scattered on the Alpine mountains cold." 

In the evening, the citizens of Turin march either 
to some public piazza or garden, and sit for hours 
sipping and smoking. We have seen no drunk- 
enness in Italy. There are few purple cheeks 
or scarlet noses. Coffee houses are numerous; and 
good coffee, with or without milk, is sold cheaply. 
How much better is coffee than old Monongahela, or 
*^ Jersey lightning." Why cannot American temper- 
ance philanthropists engage in the coffee business? 
Railroad and hotel charges are about the same in 
Italy, as in Germany ; and the social habits of the 
people are somewhat similar. At Turin we take 
the train for Paris. Away in the distance towers 
the Col. de Frejus, 8338 feet high. Our train winds 
along the valley of the Dorsa, rolls through the 
wildest gorges, and climbs the mountain to a height 
of 4163 feet. We halt at the entrance to the 
lit. Cenis Tunnel. This tunnel is eight miles long. 
It was completed Dec, 1870, and cost §15,000,000. 
The height in the centre, is 4245 feet above sea level, 
and 4093 feet below the surface of the mountain. 
Bidding farewell to the sunny land of Italy, we 
enter the gloomy passage, 26 feet wide, 19 feet high, 
dimly illuminated by lighted lanterns. 



CHAPTER Xiy. 



France. 



In passing through the tunnel, we have passed 
into France. At Modane, our innocent baggage 
is closely inspected hy the French custom-houso 
authorities; and even passports are demanded! 
AVe inform this official in very vigorous French, 
that we belong to the ^' land of the free, and the 
home of the brave," and never carry such docu- 
ments. He shakes his head, shrugs his shoul- 
ders, "chalks" our luggage — nearly red, white 
and blue — and points to the waiting train. '' On 
to Paris ! '' is the watchword, and we sweep joy- 
ously over rapid rivers, through lovely valleys 
around the Savoy mountains, and past Chambery, 
Caloz, and Amberieux. Here is Macon, beautifully 
situated on the river Saone. From Chalon to 
Dijon, the sunny slopes of the Cote d'Or are 
covered with smiling vineyards. The best Bur- 
gundy wines are produced in this district. Dijon 
was formerly the capitol of the Duchy of Bur- 
gundy, and in this town the famous Dukes resided. 
358 



EXCUR8I025- THROUGH FRANCE. PARIS. 359 

The scenery through the valley of the Oiiche is 
beautiful and picturesque. Here is Montbard, the 
birthplace of Buffon, the great naturalist. Ten- 
nerre, is charmingly situated on the Arraangon. 
The broad and beautiful valley of the Yonne opens 
before us. And this is Fontainebleau I The forest 
is 60 miles in circumference, and covers an area of 
50,000 acres. What charming scenery! Look 
at those shining cottages crowning the sunny 
heights ! France may with propriety be called 
" beautiful. ^^ But the capital is in sight ; the train 
halts ; and 100 cabs are w^aiting to whirl us to the 
Eue St. Hon ore. 

Faris is France, — so says Victor Hugo ; Paris 
is the place to which ^^ all good Americans go when 
they die,'^ — so says the oracle. Whether this be 
so, or not, Paris is certainly the Mecca of pleasure- 
seeking pilgrims ; the rendezvous of all travellers 
and tourists ; and the gayest and most brilliant of 
European capitals. The topography, buildings, 
and boulevards of this fair and wicked city, are 
too well known to require any lengthy or elab- 
orate description. Its parks and palaces, street 
scenes and social pleasures, are familiar to all read- 
ers of " foreign correspondence/' and students of 
illustrated monthlies. We may therefore dispense 
with the preparation, and presentation, of any 
lengthy catalogue of the ^' attractions '^ of this 



360 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

metropolis of fasliioii and of folly. Still it mnst 
not be ignored. Our ^' wanderings " would be in- 
complete without some reference to the '^ scenes/^ 
and ^' sights," that render it so attractive. Paris 
—in 1873— had a population of 1,851,792. The 
city is 21 miles in circumference ; and its area 
nearly 25 square miles. The streets are wide and 
clean. The ^'boulevards'' are the very broad 
thoroughfares. These have a macadamized asphalt 
pavement, are shaded by stately trees, and flanked 
with the most brilliant shops. Many of the 
streets and boulevards radiate from so-called 
** Places ; " and the view from some of these 
focus-es, along twelve diverging streets, is com- 
manding and beautiful. The houses are high- 
three to five stories — and the public buildings are 
stately structures. Paris differs from London in its 
uniformly wide streets, and " magnificent distan- 
ces." In Paris, the streets, houses, parks, shops, 
are so constructed and adorned, as to present an 
attractive scene, and produce a pleasing impression. 
Indeed, the city appears to be always on exhibition. 
Even the men and women, however humble their 
employment, are tastily attired, and seem conscious 
of citizenship in the metropolis of fashion. The 
very market women — large and cumbrous though 
they be — might sit for photographs of the latest 
styles. Would that all the slovenly and greasy 



MAEKETS. BOULEVAEDS. PARKS. 361 

venders of meats and vegetables^ were like unto 
these tidy and neatly dressed Parisian provision 
dealers ! And the market-places — in the classifi- 
cation of merchandize, cleanliness, and freedom 
from patrescent smells — are models. The articles 
for sale in the meat, vegetable, and fruit depart- 
ments, are arranged as artistically as if the scene was 
about to be photographed. The flower markets are 
worthy of a visit. Here are rows of little cottage- 
like structures resting on iron posts, and covered 
wdth metallic roofs. Hither come tbe rich and 
poor to purchase sweet odors, and brilliant colors. 
Artists are busily engaged in selecting and arrang- 
ing the flowers, and quick-footed messengers are 
carrying off blooming bouquets. 

Cafes and restaurants are found in every part 
of the city. They are beautifully ornamented, and 
in the evening, brilliantly illuminated. The cofiPee 
sold in these cafes is strong, and of excellent flavor. 
The ^'cafe au lait'' is a popular and most refreshing 
beverage. At the restaurants, " viands of various 
kinds allure the taste." It is a positive pleasure 
to dine at one of these, truly, Parisian institutions. 
The table cloth so clean and w^iite ; knives and 
forks so bright and shining; food so carefully 
cooked ; and the waiters so pron^pt and polite. 
Then the shops are brilliant. The stores along the 
boulevards, the Rue de Rivoli, and Palais Royal 



362 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

are exceedingly attractive; and in the evening 
when illuminated, present a scene of beauty that 
fairly dazzles. These French shop-keepers are 
genuine artists. 

The boulevards, from the Madeleine to the 
Place de la Bastille, are crowded in the afternoons; 
24,000 vehicles roll over the smooth pavement in 
a single day. Here, tourists from all climes meet 
and mingle, and here the " exquisites'' and ^'fash- 
ionables '' promenade, clad in finest garb. In the 
afternoon, a military band discourses excellent mu- 
sic at the garden of the Tuileries. In the evening, 
the Champ Elysees — with its sparkling fountains, 
winding and flower-bordered paths,perfume breath- 
ing bowers, brilliant procession of carriages and 
pedestrians returning from the Bois de Boulogne, 
— is like a fairy land. And then, those wide and 
well lighted streets are alive with omnibus and 
cab. 6,600 cabs roll through Paris, and 32 dif- 
ferent lines of oranibusses tempt us to ride at a 
very low fare. These omnibus lines are controlled 
by one company, furnish exchange tickets, and 
charge six cents (inside), and three cents (outside). 
Just think of beino; whirled throus^h the brilliant 
and crowded boulevards of Paris for the small sum 
of three cents ! 

The parks, galleries of art, monuments," and 
public buildings, are in soiAe respects, unrivaled. 



I 



MO^'UMEKTS. PALACES. GAEDEKS. 363 

The Colonne Vendome, recently re erected, is 144 
feet ill height, and 13 feet in diameter. The 
metal of 1200 cannon, captured by Napoleon I. in 
the wars with Kussia and Austria, was employed 
in its construction. Around this column, in a 
spiral procession 300 yards in length, march bronze 
effigies of both victors and vanquished. It reminds 
us of Trajan's column at Rome. The Tomb of 
Napoleon I., is in the Dome des Invalides. It is 
an open circular crypt 20 feet in depth, and 36 feet 
in diameter. The sarcophagus — 6J feet wide and 
14J feet high — consists of a single block of red- 
dish-brown sandstone, weio-hino; 60 tons. It was 
brought from Finland at an expense of $30,000. 
Above the crypt, rises the lofty gilded dome 
crowned by a shining cross, the summit of which is 
330 feet from the pavement. The Palais Royal, 
was erected by Cardinal Richelieu. The garden 
inclosed by this extensive pile of buildings, is 257 
yards in length, and 110 yards in breadth. It is 
shaded by limes and elms, adorned with statues, 
and illuminated by 200 lamps. In the evening, 
a band discourses delightful music, in the presence 
of thousands of gaily dressed Frenchmen and for- 
eigners. The Bibliotheque Nationale, is the most 
extensive in the world. This library contains 
8,000 vols., engravings, 150,000 Mss., 300,000 
maps, and 3,000,000 books ! The reading-room is 



364 WANDEEINGS 11^ EUROPE. 

by no means as pleasantly situated as that of the 
British Museum. The Champ de Mars, is a large 
open space surrounded by rows of trees. It is 
1000 yards in lengthy and 500 yards in breadth. 
Here, the military are reviewed ; and over this 
smooth, level parade ground 30,000 men can be 
easily manoeuvered. The Hotel des Invalides, is the 
home of disabled soldiers. It is approached from 
the left bank of the Seine by an esplanade 540 
yards in length, and 270 yards in width. The 
ornamented facade of this magnificent structure is 
220 yards long ; and an area of nearly 30 acres is 
covered by the establishment. Here are collected 
numerous trophies of war, and numberless models 
of death-dealing instruments. The Jar din des 
Plantes, is on the left bank of the Seine, and covers 
an area of 75 acres. Here, we find a botanical and 
zoological garden, laboratory and library. The 
trees, plants, flowers, and buildings are most ad- 
mirably arranged. And the bears are quite merry 
this afternoon, grinning and growling for the 
amusement of delighted visitors. BufPon, the 
celebrated naturalist, was director of these gardens, 
and died here in 1788. The Palais du Luxem- 
bourgh, is a handsome edifice, and most beautifully 
ornamented. Within these palace walls are col- 
lected the finest modern paintings. The palace 
garden, intersected by winding flower-bordered 



BOUESE. BRILLIANT LOAN EXHIBITION. 365 

paths, ornamented with flower-beds, shady trees 
and sparkling fountains, and guarded by shining 
statues, is much frequented by the citizens on the 
left bank of the Seine. 

The Bourse — 225 feet long, 135 feet wide, and 
100 feet high — is a stately structure. It is sur- 
rounded by a colonnade of sixty-four Corinthian 
columns — each column being thirty-five feet high. 
Climbing to the gallery, we look down upon a 
lively crowd of apparently frantic Frenchmen. 
What wranglings, shoutings, and excited gesticu- 
lations ! No tourist should fail to see those wri- 
thing, frenzied, Parisian stock-jobbers. The Palais 
du Corps Legislaiif, is quite conspicuous on the 
left bank of the Seine. It is an imposing and 
costly edifice. Here, the Duchess of Orleans ap- 
peared, with her two sons, before the National 
Assembly in 1848. To how many a stormy de- 
bate did these palace walls listen, during the ses- 
sions of the Chamber of Deputies ! How fre- 
quently the '^ right ^' attacked the '^left,^^ and the 
"left'' the *^right," and both "moved'' on the 
"centre"! The scene, to-day, is less turbulent. 
The patriotic Alsacians, galled by the yoke of the 
victorious German, are desirous of emigrating to 
Algeria; and a "loan exhibition" is being held 
for the purpose of assisting the emigrants. The 
spacious saloons are decorated in the most sump- 



366 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

tuous style. Gobelin tapestries, beautiful paint- 
ings, sparkling gems, and ornaments in gold and 
bronze presented by noble and aristocratic Pari- 
sians, are here exhibited. And before us are the 
autographs of Luther, Calvdn, Pascal, Cromwell, 
Queen Elizabeth, Peter of Kussia, and Charles 
XII. of Sweden. For good writing, we put 
Queen "Bess" at the head of the class. 

This ^' loan exhibition " is really a " fashiona- 
ble " reception. A brilliant company is in atten- 
dance. Through these shinino; halls march the 
elite of the metropolis. The Palais de V Industrie 
— in the Champ Elysees — is 810 feet in length, 
354 feet in width, and 114 feet in height. In this 
building, the great exhibition of 1855 was held. 
It is crowned with a glass roof, through which the 
sun shines upon a gravel floor. Here are exhi- 
bited modern paintings, novel inventions, and 
various kinds of manufactures — tables, chairs, 
lamps, stoves, etc. In some respects it reminds 
us of Kensington Museum, London. This after- 
noon, the building is crowded with thousands of 
happy exhibitors and joyous pleasure seekers. 
How fond of exhibitions are these fickle French- 
men. St. Cloudy is a few miles down the river. 
The fare is ten cents, and the little steamer carries 
us thither at a good rate of speed. At St. Cloud* 
in Nov. 1799, Bonaparte dispersed the council of 



ST. CLOUD. BOIS DE BOLOGNE. LOUVKE. 367 

five hundred : here, in July 1815, Blucher's head- 
quarters were established, and the capitulation of 
Paris was signed : and during the siege of 1870-1, 
the Germans occupied the town. The palace 
of St. Cloud was the principal summer residence 
of I^apoleon III., but it is now a ruin. It was 
burned during the German occupation. The 
view from the terrace in front of the palace is 
magnificent. The Park reminds us of Windsor. 
The Bois de Bologne covers an area of 2250 
acres. It was formerly one of the crown domains, 
and a favorite hunting-ground. It is now 
city property, and the pride of the Parisians. This 
afternoon, we walk from St. Cloud to the Champ 
Elysees through this once royal park. The lakes, 
islands, and cascades are pretty ; the roads broad 
and smooth ; and the procession of carriages bril- 
liant. But it cannot boast of a winding, silvery 
Schuylkill, or shady and romantic Wissahickon. 
In the centre of the city, on the right bank of the 
Seine, are the palaces of the Louvre, and Tuileries, 
These buildings are of vast extent, covering an 
area of twenty-four acres. We must visit the 
Louvre. Passing between winged bulls, chiseled 
thousands of years ago on the banks of the Eu- 
phrates, and sphinxes, sculptured along the Nile 
when the Hebrews were in bondage, we climb to 
the spacious galleries, and wander through saloons 



368 WANDERINGS IN EUEOPE. 

a quarter of a mile in length ! With what sculp- 
tures, gold and silver ornaments, frescoes and 
paintings are those royal apartments adorned ! 
The picture galleries, if united, would extend 
three-quarters of a mile I Here is the ^^ Marriage 
at Cana" — 32 feet long and 21 feet high — by 
Paolo Veronese, And yonder is a " Madonna 
and Child,'' painted on wood, by Perugino, for 
which $11,000 was paid. And this is the paint- 
ing of the '^Conception of the Virgin '^ by Murillo. 
This picture cost $125,000! The Tuileries— 
348 yards in length and 36 yards in width — is 
in ruins. It was set on fire by the communists in 
May 1870. The Garden— 780 yards in length, 
and 347 yards in width — with its flower-beds 
most artistically arranged, velvety lawns, spark- 
ling fountains, and shady bowers, is the children's 
paradise. The Place de La Concord — 390 yards 
in length, and 235 yards in width — is the largest, 
and the most beautifully ornamented ^^ square" in 
Paris. In the centre, stands the Obelisk of Luxor. 
This is a monolith of reddish granite. It weighs 
500,000 lbs., and is 75 feet in height. The in- 
scriptions, in hieroglyphics, indicate that it is 
3200 years old. In this place, Louis XVI., 
Queen Marie Antoinette, the Duke of Orleans, 
and liobespierre, Ave re executed. More than 2800 
perished by the guillotine in this square, in 1793- 



PALACES. CHURCHES. CEMETERY. SABBATH. 369 

1795. The Champ E/ysees, forms a magnificent 
avenue, one mile in length. It is shaded with 
elms and limes, and flanked with stately edifices. 
Through this broad and beautiful thoroughfare 
the carriages roll in going to, and returning from, 
the Bois de Bolougne. On a slight eminence, at 
the termination of the grand avenue, stands the 
A7-C de Triomphe, This w^as erected by Louis 
Philippe, to commemorate the victories of the 
French armies. It is 160 feet in height, 146 feet 
in width, 72 feet in depth, and cost $2,000,000. 
The triumphal arch is tw-o miles distant from the 
Rue du Louvre ; and the entire intervening space 
is occupied by the Louvre, Tuileries and Gar- 
dens, Place de Concord, and Champ Elysee?. 
These costly palaces, beautiful gardens, wide and 
shady avenues form an uninterrupted succession 
of '^ magnificent distances.^' In Pere Lachaise, 
France buries her illustrious dead. This cemetery 
covers an area of 107 acres. The 'Hots" are 
small — only about twenty square feet. There are 
18,000 monuments ; and in the erection and orna- 
mentation of these ^' memorials," $40,000,000 have 
been expended. Here is the tomb of Abelard and 
Heloise. Beneath a gothic canopy rests the sar- 
cophagus, adorned with recumbent effigies of those 
erring, ill-fated lovers. In this city of the dead, 
we find the tombs of Charapollion, Laplace, and 
16 



370 WANDERINGS IN EUROPE. 

Cousin. Many of these monuments are decorated 
with wreaths formed of black and white beads. 
Notice Dame, and the Madeleine^ are the two most 
*^ popular churches." In the erection and decora- 
tion of the Madeleine $3,000,000 were expended. 
300 insurgents fled for refuge to this church in 
May 1871 ; but they were pursued by the troops, 
and butchered in the very shadow of the high 
altar ! Paris does not remember the *' Sabbath 
day to keep it holy.'^ Theatres and concert rooms 
are open : dog markets are held ; saloons are 
crowded with men and women drinking and 
gambling ; '^ Punch and Judy '^ exhibitions are 
given in the Champ Elysecs: both sexes and all 
ages seem to be possessed with — well — evil spirits. 
God grant that our American cities may never 
be cursed with a Parisian Sabbath ! 

Having purchased an '^express'' ticket for 
London, and selected a comfortable seat, we are 
whirled at a rapid rate through northwestern 
France. Here is Amiens the capital of Picardy. 
The beautiful valley of the Somme opens before 
us. The railroad now skirts the English Channel 
for forty miles. We halt at Boulogne ; exchange 
the cars for a steamboat; and bidding farewell to 
France and the Continent, steer across the stormy 
"Straits," with prow pointed toward the snow- 
white cliffs of Albion. 



HOMEWARD BOUND. 371 

We are safely landed at Folkestone. Liverpool 
is distant about 250 miles. The route lies through 
London and Birmingham. And what shining 
cottages, blooming gardens, and sparkling lawns 
greet the eye on every side! A day is spent in 
Wales — stopping at Holywell^ Bangor, and Holy- 
head. The scenery along the Welsh coast, in 
view of the Irish sea, Mount Snowdon, and 
the old castle of Conway, is exceedingly beauti- 
ful. These Welshmen are descendants of the 
ancient Britons. They are the true natives — 
the Englishman is only a foreigner. And 
the Welshwomen, proud of their ancestry, wear 
high, sugar loaf-shaped hats 1 The port of Liver- 
j)ool is crowded with shipping, and a forest of 
masts shadow the Mersey. But yonder is the 
" Java,'^ and the passengers are going on board. 
The noble vessel steams through St. George's 
Channel, and along the Irish coast. The land 
suddenly disappears; and the wide, western 
ocean is now before us. The passengers — the 
majority of whom are tourists — appear delighted 
at the prospect of a smooth sea, and swift passage. 
But how fickle is the wind ; how treacherous the 
sea ! The sky darkens ; and a violent wind 
sweeps the ocean. For three days, neither sun, nor 
star appears. The ship pitches and plunges; 
passengers are sick ; decks are deserted ; women 



372 HOMEWARD BOUI^D. 

cry for help; trunks break loose and roll tlirongh 
the cabins; and plates and dishes, leaping from 
the table, go whirling through the dining-room. 
Clinging to the swaying mast, we gaze upon the 
" elemental strife." The rush and roar of wind 
and wave, is terrible. Over the quivering ship, 
the billows leap like racers. At night, the scene 
is wild and grand. The angry waters are illu- 
mined by phosphorescent flashes ; and the dashing 
spray sparkles like gems. But, there is a calm. 
Passengers now pace the deck, and look with 
pleasure upon a sunny sky, and smiling sea. 
Laughter is heard in the cabin ; and the steward's 
bell — how musically it sounds ! Propelled by 
wind and steam, the "jumping Java" carries us 
homeward with rapid motion. But that lonely 
craft, flitting phantom-like over the waters — what 
is it? It is the pilot boat! Yonder are the 
'^Highlands"! We sweep joyously through the 
" Narrows." The shining bay is before us : and 
** Softly we drift on its bright silver tide." 



(-^ 


' Glory to God ! all our dangers are o'er, 
Glory to God ! we will shout evermore, 
We're home at last." 


u 


^^^J|W^^^F 


(y 


^^^^ 


BD 


- 79. 



f . 








'^^ 






V<^' 



-^N 






4\ 


















"*. ■°"°\^^' 



^ 



P:-^ ^"^ 



^ <W.\ 



. y. BROS. 

— """V BINOINQ 



7 .' 



AN 

T. AUGUSTINE 
^^ FLA. 



^o p'- 



-^ 






^" 



^^32084 



